Passat A/C won't kick on!

[nfg168]

its a 97 passat GLX (vr6) had the a/c checked out and all they could conclude was that the high pressure side wasn't getting to pressure, but no leaks. any ideas?

[jaypees_alh]

what were the system pressures & did they evacuate/recharge it to verify the system was full?

[nfg168]

they just said the pressure was too low, they added a pound of refrigerant and said it was full and not leaking

[koolkevin43]

if they evacuated the charge, vacuumed it, and weighed in the proper charge, and the compressor clutch is working, then it sounds like you have a dead compressor. It could have something to do with the expansion valve though. Best bet is to replace the expansion valve and liquid line filter-drier and see what happens from there. It's a good idea to replace those items anyway when you do a compressor. Wouldn't want a $40-$50 part killing a brand new $300 compressor.

[petekrow]

if you need a compressor, I have 2. from b3's though.

[jaypees_alh]

/Nod if the high side pressure is too low it [I]could[I]be a stuck open expansion valve, but probably count on it being a compressor. As the wise man previously posted, when doing a compressor, replace the expansion valve, receiver/drier, & compressor together.

[ToddA1]

This car should have a Sanden SD7V16. There's a control valve inside that's known to go bad. It's a $20 part, but it requires opening the compressor. It's not a terrible job, but it sucks to change it and find out the problem is deeper rooted.

That being said, there's a 50/50 chance it may be your issue.

-Todd

[syntrix]

what were the system pressures & did they evacuate/recharge it to verify the system was full?

they just said the pressure was too low, they added a pound of refrigerant and said it was full and not leaking

So no data on the low and high pressure side?

Could be a sensor, maybe not. I had damage to mine when I got it, so no way of holding a charge.

Replaced the dryer/receiver (you should do this), and IIRC one of the sensors was bad. Haven't had the B3 in a few years.

Todd might have nailed it... but make sure to evacuate the entire system at a shop, and DO NOT HIT THE A/C BUTTON AT ALL BEFORE CRACKING THE SYSTEM OPEN.

I failed on this on a bmw once, and the bolt went through a garage wall. That was when I was young and dumb

[nfg168]

thanks I will be getting into it in the next week! love the Vortex

[nfg168]

So no data on the low and high pressure side?


I failed on this on a bmw once, and the bolt went through a garage wall. That was when I was young and dumb

haha, glad you're alive! I'm still young and dumb

[syntrix]

haha, glad you're alive! I'm still young and dumb

LOL, thanks for the few grey hairs, hahaha


If you do go the ghetto way, make sure that there is NO pressure on BOTH SIDES... else you could take a bolt to the temple as fast as a 9mm slug.

Not endorsing the ghetto way, but ya know, we love the vortex for this very reason.

[nfg168]

haha, a few gray hairs adds sophistication and character!

Sooo the plan

expansion valve and drier replacing
get evacuated first
don't die
install and get charged!

that right my bois?

[nfg168]

oh and the light doesn't come on anymore on the inside when I push the a/c button... any issue there?

[syntrix]

Or just leave it to the local indy, at the price of a can of refrigerant , you mostly likely can't go wrong.

I was surprised to see the cost at a local store these days, OUCH!

[nfg168]

Or just leave it to the local indy, at the price of a can of refrigerant , you mostly likely can't go wrong.

I was surprised to see the cost at a local store these days, OUCH!

leave what to who? lol i'm lost on the lingo

[syntrix]

Indy:

Local independent shop. Hit or miss in some areas. IE, not dealer service which would probably cost you over $2k, lol.

[ToddA1]

If you get a shop to evacuate, will they also recharge with what they pull?

Personally, if it were me, I'd pull the compressor and measure the oil after you drain it. Look for metal or black oil. If you see either, flush and back flush everything and get yourself a new compressor. Even if you don't see contaminants I'd flush. Don't flush the compressor.

Install the new parts with new o-rings and new oil. Pull deep vacuum, verify that it holds for a few hours then recharge.

-Todd

[nfg168]

would a relay keep it from working? I was cleaning the car and just took a gander and there's no relays in the top left three spots :?