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    Thread: Coolant overheating/ boiling?

    1. 05-25-2012 01:09 PM #1
      Just got done wrapping up a gt2871r in this:


      Took it out for a drive and one thing I noticed is the motor got warm pretty quickly, temp. gauge went dead in the center in no less then 3 or 4 minutes of driving. But not to mention its 86 degrees where I am so that may be the cause. I have high temp silicone coolant lines and when I went to shut the car off after 10-15mins of driving I noticed a weird gurgling kind of noise from the top coolant line (not sure if that's feed or return). I open the cap to the coolant resivour and although that was not boiling it did have a little steam which is probably normal. What is this noise?

    2. Member MikkiJayne's Avatar
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      05-25-2012 02:02 PM #2
      Sounds like the cooling system still has air in it. Did you bleed it at the heater core?
      Throw an Audi engineer down a hole with a ladder and he will fashion a shovel from it and tunnel his way out

      Quote Originally Posted by shwak23 View Post
      You could always call your insurance and say that some vandals tried to swap your car to rwd while you weren't looking.

    3. 05-25-2012 03:01 PM #3
      Like the heater core hoses behind the false firewall? If that's what you're reffering too then no I didn't. I basically drained all the coolant from the bottom of the port on the radiator, removed stock feed and return lines, replaced coolant and return lines with the new turbo, then when everything was put back together, filled the system up. Tell me more about bleeding it!

    4. Member MikkiJayne's Avatar
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      05-25-2012 03:33 PM #4
      Look at the two heater core hoses and you will see one has a small hole in it.

      With the engine running but cold and the header tank topped up loosen the clamp and slide that hose back 1/2" or so. You will get nothing, then a dribble, then a little fountain of coolant at which point slide it straight back on and put the clamp back

      Sometimes I find I need to lift the header tank up a little on my TDI to get the little fountain, but once the core is bled you should have got all the air out, as that is the highest point in the system
      Throw an Audi engineer down a hole with a ladder and he will fashion a shovel from it and tunnel his way out

      Quote Originally Posted by shwak23 View Post
      You could always call your insurance and say that some vandals tried to swap your car to rwd while you weren't looking.

    5. 05-25-2012 03:44 PM #5
      Bleeding at the heater core is not necessary. I have changed my coolant couple of times for various reasons. You just need to be sure to bleed it properly before taking off. This is what I do:

      -refill with engine off. the coolant will keep emptying out of the reservoir, and top off till you can no longer do this
      -once you reach that point, turn your car over with the reservoir cap removed
      -let it idle for about 10 minutes, and it should bleed itself

      But bleeding at the heater core is the proper thing to do. But if you bleed it correctly like I just mentioned, it won't be necessary.

    6. 05-26-2012 12:09 AM #6
      Both ways sound good and easy to me, Seerlah wouldn't that mean I would have to drain the coolant out of the system then re add it to do it your way?

    7. 05-26-2012 01:36 AM #7
      That is what I would do if I were you. But people have their own way of going about things. If it were me, I would drain it at the lower coolant sensor (cooling fan sensor) on the lower radiator hose. It will get dirty, but you can reuse the coolant. Just use a shop rag in a funnel to filter the coolant into a clean container (picked that trick up from an AZ member). Then start from scratch. There is also the possibility of your thermostat acting up from sitting so long. It happens. If you feel that is the case, I would go ahead and order that now and swap it in when the coolant is out of the system. It's only $20 shipped from MJM. More of a "what if" thing, so not necessary unless you are sure.

      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=1557

    8. 05-28-2012 08:10 PM #8
      Do you pull the heater core hose all the way off the nipple or just slide it back a little?

    9. 05-29-2012 01:06 AM #9
      Pull it back till the little hole is on the coolant path. That is what is used to bleed. When coolant starts to come out of it you push the hose back on.

    10. 05-29-2012 02:55 AM #10
      Hmm, I pulled the hose back until it was still connected but the hole was able to breath so it was on the very tip of the nipple, turned the heat all the way on max, and uncapped the the resivour. I still hear gurgling from the lines, maybe I need to do it longer.

    11. 05-29-2012 04:34 AM #11
      One reason I like to start from scratch. This usually happens. Is your coolant even circulating? Here are your possible scenarios:

      1) You have air bubbles
      2) You have a bad thermostat
      3) You have a blocked heater core
      4) Water pump is done for

      These are the reasons people have coolant issues.

    12. Member MikkiJayne's Avatar
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      05-29-2012 07:55 AM #12
      Mmm it sounds like a big airlock to me, although any of those ^ are plausible.

      Pull both hoses from the heater core and put a garden hose on to one of them to flush the core through to eliminate #3. There should be virtually no restriction to the flow if the core is ok. Btw, you don't need to turn the heat on to bleed the core - its an air-blend system, not water-blend so the core is always open.

      When you tried bleeding at the core did you keep the reservoir topped up? Try unscrewing the reservoir from its bracket and holding it up above the firewall - that will engourage the coolant to fill up the core if it doesn't want to now.

      If you can get the little fountain at the core with the res topped up then button it all back up and go for a drive to warm it up (keeping an eye on the temperature of course), then let it cool down again overnight and check the level. It should just burp itself after this and sort itself out
      Throw an Audi engineer down a hole with a ladder and he will fashion a shovel from it and tunnel his way out

      Quote Originally Posted by shwak23 View Post
      You could always call your insurance and say that some vandals tried to swap your car to rwd while you weren't looking.

    13. 05-29-2012 02:19 PM #13
      I hope it's not #3 or #4!
      The thermostat doesn't even have 1k miles on it yet, but it did sit over winter.
      The temp. gauge goes up normally and stays dead in the middle. When I pulled back the heater core hose the first time I accidently pulled it back to far and it came totally off and I did see the stream of coolant. I will try the garden hose trick too see if in fact it is the heater core. The first time I did see a little burping from the hose that returns to the resviour. I would like to think my coolant is circulating although i'm not positive. When I hold the return line while the car is running I can definatley feel something going on in there not sure enough to know that is though.

    14. 05-29-2012 05:27 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by Seerlah View Post
      One reason I like to start from scratch. This usually happens. Is your coolant even circulating? Here are your possible scenarios:

      1) You have air bubbles
      2) You have a bad thermostat
      3) You have a blocked heater core
      4) Water pump is done for
      5) YOUR HEADGASKET IS BLOWN sorry just had too

      These are the reasons people have coolant issues.
      .

    15. 05-29-2012 05:34 PM #15
      Possibly..but I don't have any other symptoms of a blown head gasket. I'm not even loosing coolant. The coolant in the resivour has stayed constant.

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      05-29-2012 05:43 PM #16
      yea for real why has no one said head gasket yet. The #1 symptom of a head gasket going out is a over charged bubbling cooling system.

      Here is what you do.

      Get this tool. http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CGsQ8wIwAA

      1: because you are supposed to use one after completely draining the system.
      2: because it will find any leaks for you, almost like a leak down test.
      3: no hot spots

      This will completely remove all the air from the system, it will actually suck all the rubber hoses until they colapse into themselves, at this stage you will hear and see on the gauge if there are any leaks anywhere. (I've found one in my radiator core once, found one in head gasket once, found a few from the 2 hoses on the coolant flage, everywhere!) very useful tool.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_4x6...eature=related
      Last edited by morzechowski; 05-29-2012 at 05:47 PM.
      I like George Michaels

    17. Member MikkiJayne's Avatar
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      05-29-2012 06:50 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by morzechowski View Post
      yea for real why has no one said head gasket yet. The #1 symptom of a head gasket going out is a over charged bubbling cooling system.
      Because it started when the coolant was drained, rather than spontaneously on a running engine

      That vacuum tool looks pretty handy
      Throw an Audi engineer down a hole with a ladder and he will fashion a shovel from it and tunnel his way out

      Quote Originally Posted by shwak23 View Post
      You could always call your insurance and say that some vandals tried to swap your car to rwd while you weren't looking.

    18. 05-29-2012 09:25 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by morzechowski View Post
      yea for real why has no one said head gasket yet. The #1 symptom of a head gasket going out is a over charged bubbling cooling system.

      Here is what you do.

      Get this tool. http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CGsQ8wIwAA

      1: because you are supposed to use one after completely draining the system.
      2: because it will find any leaks for you, almost like a leak down test.
      3: no hot spots

      This will completely remove all the air from the system, it will actually suck all the rubber hoses until they colapse into themselves, at this stage you will hear and see on the gauge if there are any leaks anywhere. (I've found one in my radiator core once, found one in head gasket once, found a few from the 2 hoses on the coolant flage, everywhere!) very useful tool.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_4x6...eature=related
      That's awesome, I'll look into it more.

    19. 05-29-2012 09:31 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
      Because it started when the coolant was drained, rather than spontaneously on a running engine

      That vacuum tool looks pretty handy
      My thoughts exactly, never had a problem in the past, even 500 miles before I put the car away I changed the thermostat and didn't have a problem when I refilled the system. Only when I took the radiator out un-done all the stock coolant lines, and the hard line above the intake manifold. Then refilled the system is when the problem started to happen.

    20. 05-31-2012 07:08 PM #20
      Anymore opinions? Could it be maybe the water to coolant ratio is off? Causing one to boil?

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