Need a gasket kit for 1.8, no idea where to go

[Danger1523]

I'm just running a stock GTI 8v and need to do oil pan gasket, head gasket, valve cover gasket and piston rings. Anything else would be nice, but it's almost impossible to understand the stuff from Fel-Pro. They just seem to have a bunch of gasket kits, but dont explain what any of them contain

[ziddey]

Screw fel-pro. Go Elring or go home.

Hard to say with those kits. Check the picture

[Danger1523]

Where can I get a set of them from? I'm worried about going through somewhere and getting incorrectly spaced piston rings. I figured there would be a difference between 8:1 cr o 10:1 cr piston rings and didn't want the mistake being made and then I just put them in and **** goes wrong from there

[Glegor]

Where can I get a set of them from? I'm worried about going through somewhere and getting incorrectly spaced piston rings. I figured there would be a difference between 8:1 cr o 10:1 cr piston rings and didn't want the mistake being made and then I just put them in and **** goes wrong from there

the rings are all identical.

the PISTON is what dictates the compression, not rings..

[Danger1523]

the rings are all identical.

the PISTON is what dictates the compression, not rings..

Thank you!

[WaterWheels]

I am not sure what you mean by "incorrectly spaced" piston rings, but VW lists at least 3 different part numbers for rings for these engines. The lower compression engines seem to have one part number, the higher compression engines another and the 16v yet another. I have seen this at some aftermarket sales places also, but have seen them all listed together too. Never bothered to look into the difference, material maybe or design (shape), but there are listings for different engines.

If by incorrect spacing you mean the gap then that is no issue as you have to set the gap, or at least check it, and rings come in differenc sizes for overbores though. If you mean the ring grooves, they are the same size for all the engines except a few, like the G60. I guess you can get by with "one ring fits all" kits but I would go with one made for your engine.

[Glegor]

i guess i should have said the ring specs are all identical. the materials may not be tho..

and being that VWs are soo universal, i imagine you could use 16v rings in an 8v without issue.

diesel piston rings are probably specific to the diesel tho..

[Danger1523]

I am not sure what you mean by "incorrectly spaced" piston rings, but VW lists at least 3 different part numbers for rings for these engines. The lower compression engines seem to have one part number, the higher compression engines another and the 16v yet another. I have seen this at some aftermarket sales places also, but have seen them all listed together too. Never bothered to look into the difference, material maybe or design (shape), but there are listings for different engines.

If by incorrect spacing you mean the gap then that is no issue as you have to set the gap, or at least check it, and rings come in differenc sizes for overbores though. If you mean the ring grooves, they are the same size for all the engines except a few, like the G60. I guess you can get by with "one ring fits all" kits but I would go with one made for your engine.

So there is no pre-gapped rings? I should have asked that first, sorry for not phrasing it correctly. I was worried that if the rings were pre-gapped, they would be a different size from engine to engine. Does anyone know the correct gap then?

[WaterWheels]

There might be some places that sell "pre-gapped" piston rings, but I would not buy from any place that states that in their ad. Spark plugs are often sold as pre-gapped but a wise man would at least check the gap before installing them. Un-like spark plugs, piston rings have to seal a cylinder cut into the motor block. We are talking thousandths of a inch measurments here and no two cylinders are going to be 100% exactly the same so the ring gap is also going to be a little different cylinder to cylinder. You have to set the rings into the cylinder and check/adjust each ring for the cylinder it will be used in before installing the ring/piston assembly. Before someone states otherwise, yes, you can just slap them in and hope for the best. But that is one of the differences between building an engine correctly and just throwing one together to say you did it.

Does anyone know the correct gap then?

One of the rare cases where I have to say; Before buying rings - buy a repair manual.

[Danger1523]

There might be some places that sell "pre-gapped" piston rings, but I would not buy from any place that states that in their ad. Spark plugs are often sold as pre-gapped but a wise man would at least check the gap before installing them. Un-like spark plugs, piston rings have to seal a cylinder cut into the motor block. We are talking thousandths of a inch measurments here and no two cylinders are going to be 100% exactly the same so the ring gap is also going to be a little different cylinder to cylinder. You have to set the rings into the cylinder and check/adjust each ring for the cylinder it will be used in before installing the ring/piston assembly. Before someone states otherwise, yes, you can just slap them in and hope for the best. But that is one of the differences between building an engine correctly and just throwing one together to say you did it.




One of the rare cases where I have to say; Before buying rings - buy a repair manual.

I'm personally not comfortable doing it myself, I guess when I send my block(just for an acid dip) over I can always include the crank and pistons and just ask to have him gap the pistons and put everything in. The engine has 250,000 on it, figured I'd take care of everything while I can. Thanks

[WaterWheels]

The engine has 250,000 on it, figured I'd take care of everything while I can.

That's a fair amount of miles. It might very well be that you are going to require an overbore and piston rings alone will not work. That would mean the next size pistons along with their rings. Are you prepared for that if it turns out it is required? A correct machine shop will not just slap in a set of rings and hope the seal will be OK if the cylinders are worn to much. Rebuilding an engine is a good idea but if one can't handle the extra cost for a well worn engine, then looking into a good used mill might be wise. Just some thoughts.

[Danger1523]

That's a fair amount of miles. It might very well be that you are going to require an overbore and piston rings alone will not work. That would mean the next size pistons along with their rings. Are you prepared for that if it turns out it is required? A correct machine shop will not just slap in a set of rings and hope the seal will be OK if the cylinders are worn to much. Rebuilding an engine is a good idea but if one can't handle the extra cost for a well worn engine, then looking into a good used mill might be wise. Just some thoughts.

Used mill? And I have thought about it, hoping that it wont come down to it in the end. Previous owner had no issues with burning oil and such, hopefully it all works out ok.

[WaterWheels]

Used mill?

Flashback I guess You kinda have to sit down and figure out what you intend to do, the cost of the parts plus 20% (it always cost more), the labor and bounce that against what a good used engine/block would cost you or even an already rebuilt one. Is this just a "I want it back on the road and don't give a hoot if it breaks down in 6 months" or "I plan to keep this car for a long time and want a good solid motor in it"? That should get you started.

[Danger1523]

Flashback I guess You kinda have to sit down and figure out what you intend to do, the cost of the parts plus 20% (it always cost more), the labor and bounce that against what a good used engine/block would cost you or even an already rebuilt one. Is this just a "I want it back on the road and don't give a hoot if it breaks down in 6 months" or "I plan to keep this car for a long time and want a good solid motor in it"? That should get you started.

Of course I want the motor to be running fine. Originally I bought the car under the impression of it needing a new trans, got a rebuilt trans from HGB but while the engine was out I noticed the exhaust mani crack, snapped some bolts in the head, took the head off and then just figured I'd go all out. When I drove the car home it didn't seem to have any issues. Drained the oil, seemed decent, so it wouldn't be old oil covering up a piston ring issue. Worst comes to worst I'll bring it there and the guy will tell me it needs more than just that. He's a pretty solid dude, same guy the shop I work in uses(obviously I'm not a master technician there). ANYWAYS, what I'm saying is, I'm hoping there isn't anything wrong with it beyond my knowledge. Because that'd throw the hole thing into a credit card situation, and I dont want to get into it. It's not fair to the car to just toss it back together.

[WaterWheels]

OK, so staying on or within a budget is a big issue then. Might I suggest something then which could work for you. Bring the current motor to a state where you can drive the car on a daily basis without spending too much money. Then, going slow and within your means, start building another engine to swap in later. Get a good used block, then send it out for cleaning and any machine work, then purchase the bearings and have any work required to fit them done, etc. etc. Do it at your own pace, it will be finished sooner than you think as long as you have some money you can spend on it every month. Just an idea which has work for people, myself included, in the past. Doing the work yourself will require purchasing some tools which tend to get expensive so farming out the work might be cheaper.

Know of a place called Succasunna?

[Danger1523]

OK, so staying on or within a budget is a big issue then. Might I suggest something then which could work for you. Bring the current motor to a state where you can drive the car on a daily basis without spending too much money. Then, going slow and within your means, start building another engine to swap in later. Get a good used block, then send it out for cleaning and any machine work, then purchase the bearings and have any work required to fit them done, etc. etc. Do it at your own pace, it will be finished sooner than you think as long as you have some money you can spend on it every month. Just an idea which has work for people, myself included, in the past. Doing the work yourself will require purchasing some tools which tend to get expensive so farming out the work might be cheaper.

Know of a place called Succasunna?

I dont know Succasunna. I was planning on getting it to a good condition, it ran fine when I took it out, so I hope there wont be any problems when I drop it back in. The only issue I'm having is getting my crank pulley off to replace it. Going to sit on that one for a while. Then I just need all new gaskets(oilpan, head and valve), and to drill out the exhaust mani bolts in the head and it's ready to go

[WaterWheels]

The only issue I'm having is getting my crank pulley off to replace it. . . and to drill out the exhaust mani bolts in the head and it's ready to go

Engine still in the car? Engine still together? The crankshaft bolt, by crank pulley I think you mean the timing belt gear, is on tight. An impact wrench would be a good way but if you don't have one then you will need to hold the crankshaft steady. If you have the engine still with the flywheel attached then a tool can be bought to block the flywheel to break the bolt free. You can rig up your own tool if you're creative and careful. Or as I said, an impact wrench will do it. If it's out of the block then take it to a garage and give the guy a buck or two to remove it. If you mean the v-belt pulley then I have to ask what the problem is?

I would take the head to a shop to have the broken studs removed. Drilling is a risky gob as they can be real hard and if the drill walks and you damage the aluminim you will have a bigger job on your hands. Let a shop that repairs heads do this if you can, plus it will be their fault if they mess things up and have to drill it oversize and thread in a repair coil.

[Danger1523]

Engine still in the car? Engine still together? The crankshaft bolt, by crank pulley I think you mean the timing belt gear, is on tight. An impact wrench would be a good way but if you don't have one then you will need to hold the crankshaft steady. If you have the engine still with the flywheel attached then a tool can be bought to block the flywheel to break the bolt free. You can rig up your own tool if you're creative and careful. Or as I said, an impact wrench will do it. If it's out of the block then take it to a garage and give the guy a buck or two to remove it. If you mean the v-belt pulley then I have to ask what the problem is?

I would take the head to a shop to have the broken studs removed. Drilling is a risky gob as they can be real hard and if the drill walks and you damage the aluminim you will have a bigger job on your hands. Let a shop that repairs heads do this if you can, plus it will be their fault if they mess things up and have to drill it oversize and thread in a repair coil.

I was going to have the shop do the mani bolts. Engine is currently on a stand. I have an electric impact and it wasn't enough to take off the pulley, it's outside of the timing cover, but to have it acid-dipped I should really take off all unnecessary stuff. So I need to get that pulley off. Can you take the crank and everything out without unbolting the external pulley for the belt?

[jodiwon]

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...a/Engine/100/6
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...a/Engine/160/2

You mean this?

[Danger1523]

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...a/Engine/100/6
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...a/Engine/160/2

You mean this?

It's a start! Thank you! Much cheaper than ****ty-ass autozone

[fiftybuckbunny]

Go to evwparts.com. Everything you need is there and good advice.

[zeerock0203]

ECS Tuning normally has everything