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    Thread: VRT carnage pics

    1. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      07-13-2012 11:31 PM #151
      so i blended 2.5 gallons e85 & 8 gallons 91...perfect
      11 lbs evoschmevo

    2. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      07-14-2012 10:13 AM #152
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...R6-Forum-FAQ-s


      If signals from the knock sensors indicate knocking combustion, the
      control
      unit retards the ignition timing of the knocking cylinder by 3° to max.
      12°
      until the knocking tendency of the concerned cylinder is reduced.

      When the knocking tendency no longer exists, the ignition timing is
      returned
      to the nominal value in steps of 0.5°.

      When knocking occurs, the ignition timing can be different for all
      cylinders
      because of the selective cylinder knock regulation.

    3. Member GinsterMan98's Avatar
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      07-14-2012 11:49 PM #153
      Quote Originally Posted by EL DRIFTO View Post
      so i blended 2.5 gallons e85 & 8 gallons 91...perfect
      11 lbs evoschmevo
      Haha, VRT > Evo.
      98 GTI - Mustard Mayhem - 1/4 - 11.679@117.58mph - .8 bar - parted Timeslip
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    4. 07-15-2012 12:28 PM #154
      Beating the horse from a few pages back... I'm trying out bank compensation to fuel 1-3-5 an additional 3-5.5% with the understanding that a collective sampling tune with an over-fuel on those cylinders could cook the pistons in 2-4-6.



      Bumblebee Tuna

    5. Senior Member Capt.Dreadz's Avatar
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      07-15-2012 01:05 PM #155
      Quote Originally Posted by GinsterMan98 View Post
      Haha, VRT > Evo.

      *skip to 3:30 for some action*

      lol...This is actually my turbo setup on Anthony's old built 3.0L. He parted out his mk3 soon after this vid & i bought the entire turbo setup.
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      07-15-2012 02:32 PM #156
      thats awesome!... do you know how fast was the evo in the 1/4?
      1988 Jetta Carat Vr6 powered by www.LugTronic.com (99.9% done!!! )

    7. Senior Member Capt.Dreadz's Avatar
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      07-15-2012 03:56 PM #157
      Quote Originally Posted by PjS860ct View Post
      thats awesome!... do you know how fast was the evo in the 1/4?
      Nope....but that vid sold me on the turbo setup Anthony was using a Quaife 6 spd on a built 3L running about 7.8:1cr. Last i heard he bought a 337 & bagged it. He only put about 2k on the VRT before parting out.
      Chosen Life Clothing. Streetwear for the car culture. Launch Party coming very soon!!
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    8. 07-15-2012 04:51 PM #158
      Hmm I like it when he says " It aint even high boost. I'm not even stressing my motor! You underfunkingstand that".

    9. Member GinsterMan98's Avatar
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      07-16-2012 01:41 AM #159
      ^^^ funny stuff right there, lol.

      A bit of an update to my new intercooler setup. I know a few were interested to see what I went with.

      Head light supports were made from round stock.




      How I did the top part of the rad support that normally bolts to the crash bar which is non existent, lol.



      Clearance at the back of the intercooler with the rad pushed back ~2 inches on the passenger side.



      All together minus the bumper, which fits pretty good. I will post pics of that tomorrow.



      Overall, I think it went pretty good.
      98 GTI - Mustard Mayhem - 1/4 - 11.679@117.58mph - .8 bar - parted Timeslip
      96 GTI - Turbo Panda - 1/8 - 7.63@97mph - 1.1 bar of turbo fun!
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    10. Member
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      08-09-2012 11:44 AM #160
      Quote Originally Posted by 24vGTiVR6 View Post
      I've been following this thread just to learn a bit more.... but now I'm in it with ya Ginster

      24v, mostly Kinetic, Eurojet Race FMIC, Siemens 630cc, PTE6262, 9:1 head spacer, ARP head studs, also lived it's life around 15-18 psi.

      Merging onto the highway a few weeks ago #3 injector gave out, and eventually I found out the rings on cyl 3 + 5 died. Pistons and walls seemed to be alright, but I don't have the balls to just swap the rings and have at it like you did!

      I think I'm gonna go with some JE pistons this time around..... maybe with an 82mm bore. Whenever I can get the $. And probably water/meth as a safety net. Don't wanna go through this again.

      In terms of injectors I've lost my faith with the Siemens..... whenever something fails like this I just lose all confidence and switch it up. What's the general consensus for more quality alternatives?
      Any updates?

    11. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 11:57 AM #161
      Quote Originally Posted by GinsterMan98 View Post
      Not many people on here show their failures, I decided to share so people can see what happens when things don't go as planned.
      Kinda getting repetitive but I should have carnage photo or two on piston #3.

      Not tuning related, wastegate failed to open due to split signal line. Car was running WOT & ~ 28psi or so when the vac line failed so obviously no room for error. Car probably saw 40 psi easily (still convinced my water-meth saved the block & other internals). Still was able to beat everything else that night (240's turbo, celica turbo, Bimmers, some bikes). Yes... I ran the car and HARD all night. Figured the motor was coming apart so whatever. Got home and noticed the crankcase pressure was obnoxiously high with blowby. Compression test the fol morning and cylinder 3 was 40 psi less than everything around it. At idle car pulled only 15 inch of vacuum.

      Stock block held up better than my "built" block, go figure. Further testament to why I do not advocate dumping thousands of dollars on a VR lower end if you are staying
      Last edited by V-dubbulyuh; 08-17-2012 at 07:11 PM.
      "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

    12. Member 1SlowSLC's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 07:15 PM #162
      Quote Originally Posted by kevhayward View Post
      That happens with stock pistons even with a perfect tune. They are NOT as strong as people like to think they are. Ultimately, forged pistons are the only thing man enough to mix a bar+ of boost and 100+ K miles. It's why OEs use them.
      Agree 100% I even said the same thing on the first page of this thread. Here:

      "I toasted a stock piston, even with DTA management. High engine temps (mostly overheating) will kill a stock bottom end also.

      The stock pistons let go on the ringlands 99% of the time. They just werent made to deal with boost."

      Any overheating or detonation, and the ringlands will usually go on you.
      FS: Fikse FM-10 17x8 17x9 Fully refurbished, custom kodiak lips, BFG KDW2 rubber 205-40-17, 215-40-17 / FS: Mk2 GTI Vr6T- needs head gasket and cooling system once over, and retune
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    13. Member obdONE's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 04:26 PM #163
      and finally, my contribution:



      #1 piston. Drove fine until you crossed 18psi (seriously no hint of a problem up through 15psi and during normal cruising) and still made power even then and even though it would billow white smoke. As best as I can tell, I cracked the ring land on my way to the last dyno, as that's the first time my car threw the white smoke. So 380whp was achieved with a broken land and over 100* temps. Not bad.

      My block is at the shop getting tanked right now and my buddy is going to check my head and an assortment of 10 pistons/ rods and get me squared away. Then I'll do a full oem rebuild with all ARP hardware and get her back on the road.

    14. Member wabbitGTl's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 10:48 PM #164
      Quote Originally Posted by obdONE View Post
      and finally, my contribution:
      you're making me nervous again, jamie! glad to see you're getting it squared away though
      Quote Originally Posted by chucchinchilla View Post
      People spec their Porsche cars like they select bottles of wine when going on a date. Few people want to be the guy buying the cheapest bottle on the menu. The rest, like myself, realize they'll be just as happy (and just as laid) buying the cheapest. Garcon, one base Carrera for me please.

    15. 08-29-2012 01:39 AM #165
      Most forged pistons will have stronger ringlands... if your block/bores are within spec then I would highly recommend a set of forged drop-ins. They're available in stock bore size so no lost money on machine work and a new piece of mind achieved.
      Bumblebee Tuna

    16. 08-29-2012 02:48 AM #166
      I am learning that cause of ring glands failure is coming from rings. As they overheat and expend, ends meet causing them to bend and push against ring glands. With enough heat, pressure is high and piston is soft.
      Coming from this theory, older motors must be more tolerant to this problem due to rings been more wornout and more play allowed
      So, keeping engine cool should help us to overcome this problem. The way to cool piston is oil spay we have, so bring on your oil collers.
      I gues tuning and fuel have a lot to do with it to. As well as water injection, as long as it is close to intake valve and do not evaporate before cylinder entry...

      Any engine builders here to comment
      Last edited by simple_man; 08-29-2012 at 02:52 AM.
      .:R32T, Stock Internals
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    17. Member radoman57's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 10:12 AM #167
      I had 4 pistons with cracked ring lands, only 1 ring land actually let go and scratched the wall enough to
      require a re-bore. Cylinders 3-6 were the culprits, 1 and 2 were fine. I'm going on the ring gap theory
      to hopefully help this from happening again. Gapping the rings to .016 to .020, 82mm oem pistons.
      The bore was also worn at the top in the direction towards the outside of the block on all bores to about
      +.003 which is the max allowed. Makes sense to me since the dish on the piston is not centered which
      should push the piston in that direction. If you guys are just re-ringing with worn bores I don't see it
      working too well. I'm not an engine builder but a machinist.

    18. Member obdONE's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 03:57 PM #168
      found another piston with a cracked land. oh well. bottom end is reassembled. I hope to have it in the car saturday.

    19. Member .:V.R.6.6.6:.'s Avatar
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      09-05-2012 07:51 PM #169
      So much good info in here

    20. 09-05-2012 07:56 PM #170
      Quote Originally Posted by radoman57 View Post
      I had 4 pistons with cracked ring lands, only 1 ring land actually let go and scratched the wall enough to
      require a re-bore. Cylinders 3-6 were the culprits, 1 and 2 were fine. I'm going on the ring gap theory
      to hopefully help this from happening again. Gapping the rings to .016 to .020, 82mm oem pistons.
      The bore was also worn at the top in the direction towards the outside of the block on all bores to about
      +.003 which is the max allowed. Makes sense to me since the dish on the piston is not centered which
      should push the piston in that direction. If you guys are just re-ringing with worn bores I don't see it
      working too well. I'm not an engine builder but a machinist.
      Hard to explain cracked ringlands on bores worn so ring gap is .050+... just not great piston design for forced induction.
      Bumblebee Tuna

    21. 09-07-2012 07:45 PM #171
      another one with failed siemens 630's, they failed open, and flooded my **** all out. Now running genesis
      550cc @ 3.5 bar, the correct spray pattern (16VT) increased my idle significantly, much better drivability too

    22. Member radoman57's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 09:37 PM #172
      Quote Originally Posted by DieGTi View Post
      Hard to explain cracked ringlands on bores worn so ring gap is .050+... just not great piston design for forced induction.
      How worn was the bore? .050 seems like alot, mine were like .014.
      I noticed most of the wear on the cylinder to be towards the top and to the outside, it was .003 which is the wear limit. To get to .050, wow, maybe lots of side clearance too

    23. Junior Member vwjettaspeed's Avatar
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      09-09-2012 04:27 AM #173
      Quote Originally Posted by simple_man View Post
      I am learning that cause of ring glands failure is coming from rings. As they overheat and expend, ends meet causing them to bend and push against ring glands. With enough heat, pressure is high and piston is soft.
      Coming from this theory, older motors must be more tolerant to this problem due to rings been more wornout and more play allowed
      So, keeping engine cool should help us to overcome this problem. The way to cool piston is oil spay we have, so bring on your oil collers.
      I gues tuning and fuel have a lot to do with it to. As well as water injection, as long as it is close to intake valve and do not evaporate before cylinder entry...

      Any engine builders here to comment
      Yes this is correct, I have seen this before. It seems as though us Vw guys are a year or more behind the rest of the pack. I owned an Evo for 2 years and then came back to Vw and had to laugh when I read about this new awesome thing called meth injection here on the vortex and I had been running it for A year already and many other Evo owners had been running it for years. No offense to the vortex, I love and defend VW to everyone at my buddies shop driving Supra's or 350z's with 2Jz's telling me my Vw's are over engineered pieces of crap.

    24. Member obdONE's Avatar
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      09-17-2012 03:50 PM #174
      first startup on sunday, went perfectly. My buddy said it was the best first start he's had thus far. Went to go break it in and did 3 or 4 pulls and the car handled great. No leaks, no overheating, great oil pressure, smooth sailing. Turned back onto the street to go home and a supreme mechanical knock erupted from the bottom end. sounds like metal ticking on metal, something in the rotating ass. Still not overheating, oil pressure at idle was like 10psi which is ok I guess, no leaks, etc. But the knock is awful. So we're thinking maybe we have a couple of mixed caps/ rods in there or something. I'm so pissed...

      On cold start this morning, it sounded perfect. Once it heat up, the clack came back. I'm not starting it up anymore. If I have the fortitude of spirit, I'll try to take the pan off and see what's what on Wed.

    25. Member GinsterMan98's Avatar
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      09-17-2012 06:27 PM #175
      Quote Originally Posted by obdONE View Post
      first startup on sunday, went perfectly. My buddy said it was the best first start he's had thus far. Went to go break it in and did 3 or 4 pulls and the car handled great. No leaks, no overheating, great oil pressure, smooth sailing. Turned back onto the street to go home and a supreme mechanical knock erupted from the bottom end. sounds like metal ticking on metal, something in the rotating ass. Still not overheating, oil pressure at idle was like 10psi which is ok I guess, no leaks, etc. But the knock is awful. So we're thinking maybe we have a couple of mixed caps/ rods in there or something. I'm so pissed...

      On cold start this morning, it sounded perfect. Once it heat up, the clack came back. I'm not starting it up anymore. If I have the fortitude of spirit, I'll try to take the pan off and see what's what on Wed.
      Man, that sucks to hear. Hope the motor is not done for.
      98 GTI - Mustard Mayhem - 1/4 - 11.679@117.58mph - .8 bar - parted Timeslip
      96 GTI - Turbo Panda - 1/8 - 7.63@97mph - 1.1 bar of turbo fun!
      89 325is - New turbo project
      www.lugtronic.com

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