VRT carnage pics

[joshisapunk]

I'm using C2 pro maf as well. Stock 163k mile block and head with an 8.5:1 head spacer, stock head bolts even. Turbo'd for 5 years and 25k miles with ZERO issues. Less blow by than any NA engine i've owned and almost unnoticeable oil consumption. I run a manual boost controller that has been set over 15psi since day one. Currently at 23psi (Garret T67) on pump gas, no meth.

Long story short, having a hard time understanding why there are so many guys with dead pistons in here, but i added an oil cooler and went with a 700hp intercooler because of this thread.

[dasbeast3.0]

Ive understood that the Lugtronic VR6 setup is very good. If I was getting a new software/ECU setup now, I would been looking into Lugtronic standalone for sure.
But I see alot off people saying that C2 and newer UM software are crap. I hope they know what they are talking about.
My C2 63# Pro-Maf setup have been on the car since 2009. Its my daily driver when its not snow on the road. Im talking 10.000+ kilometers every summer. That is around 6200+ miles each summer.
It has been used from 15-30 psi all day long. No issues, and I dont see any reasion why I should complain about my C2 Pro-Maf software. Its spot on, and I can adjust my afr as I want with a adj fpr.
My 35R 1.06 is maxed out around 30 psi, the Pro-Maf setup is not.

Btw: 9:1 Wiseco w/ thin Schimmel spacer. 8.4:1 H-rods and stock head. No issues so far. And no smoke from the exhaust.

I've tried several other chip tunes and 63# c2/promaf blows them all out of the water. Very smooth and responds well to fuel pressure adjustments, something the 42# setup lacked.

[raddo]

Ive understood that the Lugtronic VR6 setup is very good. If I was getting a new software/ECU setup now, I would been looking into Lugtronic standalone for sure.
But I see alot off people saying that C2 and newer UM software are crap. I hope they know what they are talking about.
My C2 63# Pro-Maf setup have been on the car since 2009. Its my daily driver when its not snow on the road. Im talking 10.000+ kilometers every summer. That is around 6200+ miles each summer.
It has been used from 15-30 psi all day long. No issues, and I dont see any reasion why I should complain about my C2 Pro-Maf software. Its spot on, and I can adjust my afr as I want with a adj fpr.
My 35R 1.06 is maxed out around 30 psi, the Pro-Maf setup is not.

Btw: 9:1 Wiseco w/ thin Schimmel spacer. 8.4:1 H-rods and stock head. No issues so far. And no smoke from the exhaust.

I have the same setup minus the pistons(mine are 8.5:1) an my afr is spot on. I'm afraid to push any more boost till I get some forged rods up in there.

[EL DRIFTO]

That under car rad setup is brutal, Air can't even flow through it properly, just around it. All you need is a good fan setup with the stock radiator in its normal place. Get 2 decent pullers. Not trying to shoot ya down er anything, but there is nothing beneficial in that setup. What are you gonna do at idle if you get rid of the fans?

believe it or not, more heat comes off it than you think.
it doesn't get hot sitting still OR heatsoak now, no fans...
i've broken ringlands before, i had big fans, i've seen what people were doing before they break them here & i've seen what doesn't work...
think of it as a heat sink or why anything would need more than one radiator location.
i appreciate your candor but i'm infinitely more happy w my car's 100% duty cycle.

[EL DRIFTO]

i guess occurring has 2 r's ??


The Knock Module is another animal altogether, and expands the MS3/MS3X's knock sensing capability dramatically. This isn't just an analog knock input with no conditioning, the MS3 (with this Knock Module expansion) allows for knock windowing looking for knock just during the few degrees of crank rotation where it will happen on each cylinder, and this allows the MS3 to determine which cylinder knock occured on as well! Furthermore the firmware and tuning software allow for fine tuning of the 'noise floor' of your engine so that you can prevent false positives from the knock sensor by 'teaching' the ECU what your engine normally sounds like when knock isn't occuring, and it will then be able to hear the difference and tell you when knock is occuring. You can then configure the ECU to respond by making adjustments to your tune, reducing ignition advance until knock goes away, etc.

edit: quoted from the DIY autotune newsletter Sept

[GinsterMan98]

A little update for those who were curious about how the intercooler I went with is working. Here it is- http://www.maperformance.com/treadst...re-tr10x5.html

The setup is a PTE 58/62, 2.5 inch IC pipes, MK4 IAT and the 3.5 inch Treadstone core. I am seeing ~90F at the top of third @ 19ish psi. Working pretty good I guess.

[EL DRIFTO]

Nice, do you have the old IAT vs ambient temps to compare before the upgrade ?

[builtvw]

this is a useful thread

[GinsterMan98]

Nice, do you have the old IAT vs ambient temps to compare before the upgrade ?

Not anything I trust, my stock IATA was giving erroneous readings. I switched to the MK4 one on the recommendation of Mr Black. Sadly I have no data from the old ic, sure it was not good.


Sent from my pager using Tapatalk...

[05JettaGLXVR6]

I have the same setup minus the pistons(mine are 8.5:1) an my afr is spot on. I'm afraid to push any more boost till I get some forged rods up in there.

Stock rods are good to 700++ WHP with ARP bolts. Only way i ever broke one was with a hydrolock. But what rod will survive that.

[simple_man]

Stock rods are good to 700++ WHP with ARP bolts. Only way i ever broke one was with a hydrolock. But what rod will survive that.

Trying to understand the comment you made.

What is ARP bolts got to do with rods strength in relation to TQ produced? Or the way the power was made is higher in RPM range?
I can see ARP bolts been resistant to stretch, therefore helping to keep the cap on the rod during exhaust stroke at HIGH RPM. Cannot see it helping any other way.

[Soundwave_vr6]

get a call from new owner of my car(mk4 kinetic stage 3/lsd /3" exhaust ect). heard clank clank...... bang clank ect.


pool of gear oil under car. push to a parking lot


axle was off the tranny
axle bolts all backed out(?)
the metal cap was off the cv joint end and grease everywhere, and mangled/twisted near bolt holes.
took out axle couldn't see much.
put it in gear/let out clutch to listen for turrible sounds, it made none. but some more gear oil came out of here.







so the axle came lose and cut the gear box?


oh and this was full boost 3rd gear around a nice sweeping corner :p

[Jeebus]

That's exactly what happened, fixed a case last year for the exact same reason. Friends axle came loose and punched a hole in the exact same spot.

[Soundwave_vr6]

fix = new case i assume?

[Jeebus]

Separate it and weld it.

[CorradoFuhrer]

and here we have it folks, back to square 1.






one mixed bearing cap and my rebuild is fubar'd. need a new crank now. If my luck with this car were currency, my face would be on the one dollar bill.

aren't all the main caps on the VR6 numbered?

[dub_slug]

This thread rocks I'm still running stock block with no issues. The block in one of my cars started smokin and have yet to tear it down. It was holding up to 30+psi just fine

[simple_man]

This thread rocks I'm still running stock block with no issues. The block in one of my cars started smokin and have yet to tear it down. It was holding up to 30+psi just fine

Mind sharing specs? Is that on 2.8L motor?
At what RPM 10PSI and 30PSI came on?

[dub_slug]

Full boost at ~4200rpm2.8l, 262's, 6265 t4.81, 3"tb, race gas on 440's. it wasnt until I wacked the oil pan was running low on oil unknowingly and was racing a zo6 for multiple pulls down the highway until it started smoking. Still ran just not very well lol.

Current setup is only on 10psi as I don't wanna blow it up. Once I get more fueling, meth and my diffed Trans ill probably crank that **** up to 22-30psi. The power on the current setup is very linear so I think the rods will last a while just gotta keep it cool .

Edit current setup:

Full boost ~4500rpm 6765bb T4.96, 3"TB, Juan Sri, stock MkIV cams, custom setrab oil cooler kit, cx cheapo bar and plate, 440's, meth and diff coming soon.
Here's a couple pics of the car. About to hit 75k on the clock

[SlantSix]

Soundwave_vr6
FV-QR

get a call from new owner of my car(mk4 kinetic stage 3/lsd /3" exhaust ect). heard clank clank...... bang clank ect.


pool of gear oil under car. push to a parking lot


axle was off the tranny
axle bolts all backed out(?)
the metal cap was off the cv joint end and grease everywhere, and mangled/twisted near bolt holes.
took out axle couldn't see much.
put it in gear/let out clutch to listen for turrible sounds, it made none. but some more gear oil came out of here.







so the axle came lose and cut the gear box?


oh and this was full boost 3rd gear around a nice sweeping corner :p

I got same thing few years ago. Bolts lose and grind hole.
Fix was : cleaned transmission well with brake cleaner, sanded it with 120 grid paper and glued thin piece of aluminium with lots of Permatex. Hold fine 5 years now and no leak.

[GingerH8r]

^BRAVO! Lol that's funny stuff righ there