VR6 swap gas tank?

[biggins82786]

I've searched. No dice here or on Google.

When you swap a VR6 into a Rabbit, do you use the stock rabbit tank or can you use the Mk3's tank somehow? Would it be easier to get a fuel cell? The thing I'm thinking is that with a 12v, the stock 10 gallon tank is gonna be ****ty for a VR Mk1 daily driver. Ideas?

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[sk8ordie]

why because the 12 gallon MKIII tank makes that much of a difference? Think of the increased mileage youll get not haulingh that pig of a MKIII/IV body around. Everyone I know uses the stock tank.

[B4S]

If you're building a VR Mk1 to use as a daily, then you're on some great drugs.

If you're building a VR Mk1 to enjoy, then the tank doesn't matter.

[etta gli]

If you're building a VR Mk1 to use as a daily, then you're on some great drugs.

If you're building a VR Mk1 to enjoy, then you're on some great drugs.

Completely agree, never understood why someone would want a large inefficient engine in a small car



Have fun getting under 200 miles to a tank for 150whp and watching lightly modded obd1/2 2L 16Vs walk by you

[B4S]

That's not my exact quote...but ok, lol.

[vw_monger]

**** if i had a vr in my caddy who cares what the gas maleage would be your dding a ****ing vr mk1

[biggins82786]

I'll definitely be dailying it when I get it done. It will be a car to enjoy as well considering I only work 12-14 days per month anyway. I really want the sound of the VR and the torque more than anything. I had a 24v Mk4 and I miss how loud it was.

[hinshu]

VR definitely sounds sexy, but i tend to think it is way too much weight on the front of an already light as hell car.

16V swap > VR6 swap

but regardless.. stay safe and have fun driving what you want

[MOBOZO]

I DD my VR6 Cabby 6 months out of the year. I am using the stock tank and I get 250-300 miles per tank. Depending on how much I beat on it.

I will admit that in the rain it gets a little hard to handle. I believe this is because of the lack of weight in the back end and my bald a$$ rear tires. Of course, it leaks so that's just one more reason to not like driving in the rain.

Other than that, it's a blast!!!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...6-87-Cabriolet

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...Times-87-Cabby

[A1steaksauce]

i always get a laugh out of those that comment about the weight of the vr and handling blah blah blah. 95% of those that comment have never even sat in a vr swapped mk1, let alone drove one.

my vr caddy on weitec coils with the dampening turned up handled awesome and rode better then when i had the old 8v in there.

when you take off and hear that vr growl nothing is gonna replace that. at that point i could care less if some built 16v starts passing me by

[vw_monger]

i always get a laugh out of those that comment about the weight of the vr and handling blah blah blah. 95% of those that comment have never even sat in a vr swapped mk1, let alone drove one.

my vr caddy on weitec coils with the dampening turned up handled awesome and rode better then when i had the old 8v in there.

when you take off and hear that vr growl nothing is gonna replace that. at that point i could care less if some built 16v starts passing me by

AMEN!! lol cant beat the sound of the vr6 with a nice exhaust

[Erthan]

**** if i had a vr in my caddy who cares what the gas maleage would be your dding a ****ing vr mk1

this guy knows

[biggins82786]

I spent all weekend checking out build threads with 16v's and it just doesn't seem like it'd be the same. The only con I've found with a VR swap is the $$$ (gotta buy the motor, trans, whatever I'll need to replace to get the motor running smooth, Eurowise's Stage 2 Mk1 VR swap kit and downpipe to fit, exhaust work, etc). All the pros speak for themselves.

All in all, I'm expecting it to cost no more than $3,000. Though that is a bit steep, it'll totally be worth it in my eyes.

[Sputterputz]

i always get a laugh out of those that comment about the weight of the vr and handling blah blah blah. 95% of those that comment have never even sat in a vr swapped mk1, let alone drove one.

my vr caddy on weitec coils with the dampening turned up handled awesome and rode better then when i had the old 8v in there.

when you take off and hear that vr growl nothing is gonna replace that. at that point i could care less if some built 16v starts passing me by

Im w you, I have had many swapped mk1s, 2s, ect... my latest is a great example, we actually LOST weight when we were done taking the 8v out, and putting a 24v vr in (it is in a mk2, but the vortex theory that they are suddenly 90% more front heavy is the same) The car handles like a dream and sounds well I usually carry a package of half wet half dry towels ... just in case...

[warmchn]

im using my stock tank. and it works just fine.

[allroad]

I DD my VR6 Cabby 6 months out of the year. I am using the stock tank and I get 250-300 miles per tank. Depending on how much I beat on it.

I will admit that in the rain it gets a little hard to handle. I believe this is because of the lack of weight in the back end and my bald a$$ rear tires. Of course, it leaks so that's just one more reason to not like driving in the rain.

Other than that, it's a blast!!!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...6-87-Cabriolet

According to the link your cabby is an 87, which has the much larger (14 gallon) fuel tank. My VR6-T cabby has that larger tank, too. It helps.

However, I'm not sure I'd be worried about a 10 gallon tank. The cars are so light that fuel economy isn't really that bad unless you're redlining every gear. And anyway, the extra 4 gallons is just an extra 25 lbs to haul around.

As for the flipping thing - the motor weighs 85lbs more than an ABA or a JH with A/C. Relocate the battery to the back and half of that difference is eliminated. I also ditched the power steering, washer bottle, etc.

[A1steaksauce]

I spent all weekend checking out build threads with 16v's and it just doesn't seem like it'd be the same. The only con I've found with a VR swap is the $$$ (gotta buy the motor, trans, whatever I'll need to replace to get the motor running smooth, Eurowise's Stage 2 Mk1 VR swap kit and downpipe to fit, exhaust work, etc). All the pros speak for themselves.

All in all, I'm expecting it to cost no more than $3,000. Though that is a bit steep, it'll totally be worth it in my eyes.

if you're resourceful you could spend about $600 for a welder and do the vr swap yourself. mk4 mounts are the easiest way to go about it. not to mention that if you get your vr placement just so in the engine bay you don't have to modify the axles at all.

here's some good vr swap threads that did it using MK4 mounts:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...s-next-in-line.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...t-Deathhare-II

[allroad]

if you get your vr placement just so in the engine bay you don't have to modify the axles at all.

^^ QFT. I haven't a clue why anybody would do it otherwise.

[biggins82786]

if you get your vr placement just so in the engine bay you don't have to modify the axles at all.

By "you don't have to modify them at all" do you mean cutting the length of the axles or what? Also, are you talking about not having to modify the VR axles?

The biggest thing, IMO, with the kit is it's easy. It comes with the mounts, axles, all the hardware needed, etc and all you do is bolt it all in. Easy enough. Another thing I like about it is I can use my Mk1 brakes, hubs, etc and I don't have to swap my wheels for 5 lug or anything like that.

[A1steaksauce]

By "you don't have to modify them at all" do you mean cutting the length of the axles or what? Also, are you talking about not having to modify the VR axles?

The biggest thing, IMO, with the kit is it's easy. It comes with the mounts, axles, all the hardware needed, etc and all you do is bolt it all in. Easy enough. Another thing I like about it is I can use my Mk1 brakes, hubs, etc and I don't have to swap my wheels for 5 lug or anything like that.

if you correctly position the vr in your engine bay you do not have to modify a set of axles. it's been shown that the vr transmission is only an inch wider overall when compared to a stock rabbit box. so in reality that's only 1/2in per side that you're asking the axles to take in...which isn't a problem if the motor is correctly centered up between them. also the hubs on the vr trans are 100mm. you can run 85+ cabriolet/rocco axles and either slightly trim your hub assembly or grind a bit off the axles. this is completely common practice when wanting to run a later transmission that requires 100mm axles. or heck you could just swap out your hubs for 85+ rocco/cabby hubs and bolt and go. it's all mk1 based and it all works.

yes the vr kit is easy. if you have an uber clean car you do not want to modify in any way, or like to jump around installing different motors, or are wanting to be just that spoon fed...then get their kit. if you're confident that the vr is the motor for you and don't mind doing some cutting and welding and also want to save yourself a couple of grand then do it yourself.

you're forgetting a few key components you'll be needing with the eurowise kit. here's an overall cost for the setup to be a bolt and go affair:

stage 1 kit $999.99
downpipe $569.99
cable clutch convo $268.99

so $1,838.97 before shipping and taxes for a complete bolt in kit for a vr swap. then there's wiring it up. if you plan on having a shop do that for you better throw a couple of hundred more down on top of that figure. also don't forget there's going to be other expenses involved when doing this swap even if you decide to purchase a diy kit

and no one said you couldn't use any of your mk1 components with a vr swap. not to be an ass but seriously read thru deathhare's and saddestday's swap threads. wanting to run a vr swap doesn't suddenly mean you're gonna be having to run 5 lug or completely different non-MK1 suspension.

[sk8ordie]

I'm all for the EW mount kits, Although a $489 mild steel DP is completely ridiculous.

[euro inc]

I'm all for the EW mount kits, Although a $489 mild steel DP is completely ridiculous.

Yea unfortunately there is a lot of money in hardware to build each one. The stainless laser cut flanges, stainless flex joints, mandrel piping, 02 bung and labor. All made in USA. Since interest isn't crazy on these parts we haven't even considered outsourcing them to China.

[biggins82786]

stage 2 kit $1,209.00
downpipe $569.99 or $415.00 for the Aluminized one.
cable clutch convo $268.99

so $2,047.98 or $1,892.99 with the Aluminized downpipe before shipping and taxes for a complete bolt in kit for a vr swap. then there's wiring it up.

As for the wiring, my buddy and I will be handling that ourselves. He has done a few engine swaps on other cars (non VW) in the past.

and no one said you couldn't use any of your mk1 components with a vr swap. not to be an ass but seriously read thru deathhare's and saddestday's swap threads. wanting to run a vr swap doesn't suddenly mean you're gonna be having to run 5 lug or completely different non-MK1 suspension.

The biggest reasons for me going with the kit are A) I can't weld nor do I have access to a welder or the mounts that need to be welded in B) I don't mind paying the money to Eurowise as I know I'll be getting a quality product and C) the ease of using their kit seems ridiculously easy.

[allroad]

Swapping to a CE2 fusebox isn't difficult but you do need to research first. There are a couple of tricks that will otherwise cause you sleepless nights.

Which clocks will you use? Again this requires research because there are implications to wiring, speedo, dash selection, and so on. You can make CE1 work, CE2 mk2, mk3/VR6... probably a bunch of others though these are the only ones I've used thus far.

BTW, your post implies that the anything other than the Eurowise setup requires VR front end parts. It doesn't. That's why Mr. Steaksauce was asking you to read build threads - understanding the options and pain points will save you money and effort.

[made clearer ]

[biggins82786]

How did my post imply that? I know it doesn't require VR front end parts though most of the front end parts will be replaced/refreshed.

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[allroad]

"Another thing I like about [the eurowise kit] is I can use my Mk1 brakes, hubs, etc and I don't have to swap my wheels for 5 lug or anything like that."

^^ That's how. What this statement implies is that any other solution would require a swapping to VR suspension components. That's not the case.

If that's not what you meant, then cool.

[biggins82786]

I know there are ways to swap the motor without having to swap everything but most of the swaps I've seen where you have to weld the mounts in, people use the VR brakes and swap it to 5 lug. It basically boils down to the whole not having access to a welder or the ability to weld. In my case, it's easier to grab the kit and bolt it on.