why because the 12 gallon MKIII tank makes that much of a difference? Think of the increased mileage youll get not haulingh that pig of a MKIII/IV body around. Everyone I know uses the stock tank.
I've searched. No dice here or on Google.
When you swap a VR6 into a Rabbit, do you use the stock rabbit tank or can you use the Mk3's tank somehow? Would it be easier to get a fuel cell? The thing I'm thinking is that with a 12v, the stock 10 gallon tank is gonna be ****ty for a VR Mk1 daily driver. Ideas?
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If you're building a VR Mk1 to use as a daily, then you're on some great drugs.
If you're building a VR Mk1 to enjoy, then the tank doesn't matter.
That's not my exact quote...but ok, lol.
I'll definitely be dailying it when I get it done. It will be a car to enjoy as well considering I only work 12-14 days per month anyway. I really want the sound of the VR and the torque more than anything. I had a 24v Mk4 and I miss how loud it was.
I DD my VR6 Cabby 6 months out of the year. I am using the stock tank and I get 250-300 miles per tank. Depending on how much I beat on it.
I will admit that in the rain it gets a little hard to handle. I believe this is because of the lack of weight in the back end and my bald a$$ rear tires. Of course, it leaks so that's just one more reason to not like driving in the rain.
Other than that, it's a blast!!!
i always get a laugh out of those that comment about the weight of the vr and handling blah blah blah. 95% of those that comment have never even sat in a vr swapped mk1, let alone drove one.
my vr caddy on weitec coils with the dampening turned up handled awesome and rode better then when i had the old 8v in there.
when you take off and hear that vr growl nothing is gonna replace that. at that point i could care less if some built 16v starts passing me by
I spent all weekend checking out build threads with 16v's and it just doesn't seem like it'd be the same. The only con I've found with a VR swap is the $$$ (gotta buy the motor, trans, whatever I'll need to replace to get the motor running smooth, Eurowise's Stage 2 Mk1 VR swap kit and downpipe to fit, exhaust work, etc). All the pros speak for themselves.
All in all, I'm expecting it to cost no more than $3,000. Though that is a bit steep, it'll totally be worth it in my eyes.
Im w you, I have had many swapped mk1s, 2s, ect... my latest is a great example, we actually LOST weight when we were done taking the 8v out, and putting a 24v vr in (it is in a mk2, but the vortex theory that they are suddenly 90% more front heavy is the same) The car handles like a dream and sounds well I usually carry a package of half wet half dry towels ... just in case...
However, I'm not sure I'd be worried about a 10 gallon tank. The cars are so light that fuel economy isn't really that bad unless you're redlining every gear. And anyway, the extra 4 gallons is just an extra 25 lbs to haul around.
As for the flipping thing - the motor weighs 85lbs more than an ABA or a JH with A/C. Relocate the battery to the back and half of that difference is eliminated. I also ditched the power steering, washer bottle, etc.
here's some good vr swap threads that did it using MK4 mounts:
The biggest thing, IMO, with the kit is it's easy. It comes with the mounts, axles, all the hardware needed, etc and all you do is bolt it all in. Easy enough. Another thing I like about it is I can use my Mk1 brakes, hubs, etc and I don't have to swap my wheels for 5 lug or anything like that.
yes the vr kit is easy. if you have an uber clean car you do not want to modify in any way, or like to jump around installing different motors, or are wanting to be just that spoon fed...then get their kit. if you're confident that the vr is the motor for you and don't mind doing some cutting and welding and also want to save yourself a couple of grand then do it yourself.
you're forgetting a few key components you'll be needing with the eurowise kit. here's an overall cost for the setup to be a bolt and go affair:
stage 1 kit $999.99
cable clutch convo $268.99
so $1,838.97 before shipping and taxes for a complete bolt in kit for a vr swap. then there's wiring it up. if you plan on having a shop do that for you better throw a couple of hundred more down on top of that figure. also don't forget there's going to be other expenses involved when doing this swap even if you decide to purchase a diy kit
and no one said you couldn't use any of your mk1 components with a vr swap. not to be an ass but seriously read thru deathhare's and saddestday's swap threads. wanting to run a vr swap doesn't suddenly mean you're gonna be having to run 5 lug or completely different non-MK1 suspension.
Last edited by A1steaksauce; 05-29-2012 at 04:19 PM.
Last edited by euro inc; 05-29-2012 at 09:47 PM.
Swapping to a CE2 fusebox isn't difficult but you do need to research first. There are a couple of tricks that will otherwise cause you sleepless nights.
Which clocks will you use? Again this requires research because there are implications to wiring, speedo, dash selection, and so on. You can make CE1 work, CE2 mk2, mk3/VR6... probably a bunch of others though these are the only ones I've used thus far.
BTW, your post implies that the anything other than the Eurowise setup requires VR front end parts. It doesn't. That's why Mr. Steaksauce was asking you to read build threads - understanding the options and pain points will save you money and effort.
[made clearer ]
Last edited by allroad; 05-30-2012 at 09:46 PM.
"Another thing I like about [the eurowise kit] is I can use my Mk1 brakes, hubs, etc and I don't have to swap my wheels for 5 lug or anything like that."
^^ That's how. What this statement implies is that any other solution would require a swapping to VR suspension components. That's not the case.
If that's not what you meant, then cool.
I know there are ways to swap the motor without having to swap everything but most of the swaps I've seen where you have to weld the mounts in, people use the VR brakes and swap it to 5 lug. It basically boils down to the whole not having access to a welder or the ability to weld. In my case, it's easier to grab the kit and bolt it on.