broke some stuff.. need advice on head work. 2.1L 5857 content

[dubbin_boho]

So i recently replaced the front main seal on my car and when i put the motor back together i put the timing belt on advanced one tooth (i didn't find this out until now ). i ran a few days and didn't realize it until it detonated and blew up two spark plugs (cylinders 1 and 4) running ~27psi.



had the car down at southern worthersee and just threw a new set of plugs in to get me through the weekend.

once i got the car home i did a compression test (motor was cold) and the #4 cylinder had the lowest, which the worse plug was in..

#1 - 125psi
#2 - 134psi
#3 - 108psi
#4 - 60psi

pulled the head off today and found the head gasket blown between cyl 3 and 4.. the pistons and cylinders look ok and have no marks or scratches. the valves look okay also, none look bent but i want to get the head checked out to make sure the valves seal and aren't nicked or anything. i also saw oil seeping down the valves so i'm guessing i would need new valve seals?

bottom end:


head gasket:


head:



is there anything i overlooked that can be damaged?


bottom end has ~17k
2.1L stroker
tdi crank
IE Rods
JE 9.5:1 stroker pistons
coated bearings
gates timing belt
IE manual tensioner
Fluiddampr
ac delete
arp hardware

head is completely stock with ~136k

pte5857dbb turbo
IE tubular mani
tial mvs wastegate (dumped)
id1000's
IE fuel rail
bosch 044 fuel pump and an lines
mafless
TT intake mani and stock tb
running eurodyne maestro vvt software

pic of my engine bay


so what would you guys recommend to get the most out of my setup in my head? i was looking into getting integrated's IECVA1's and revving out to 8500. should i look into an AEB head? not looking to really spend a ton.. what do i need to replace in the head while i have it apart?

thanks!

[jbrehm]

Your build is too nice to be running a stock head; here is the order in which I would choose upgrades:

- AEB head
- Large-port manifold (IE just announced their new one!)
- +1 Inconel valves
- Porting/polishing
- Springs
- Cams

Depending on how much cash you can drop on it, I would choose that order since the springs and cams can be done - rather easily - at later date. +1 valves and porting can be skipped, but I regret not doing it, and I'd like to see more people pushing our scene forward. Not many guys are doing +1 valves and heavy porting now, but it wasn't so long ago that 400wHP was a heavy hitter in the 1.8T scene...now it's peanuts. There's a reason why we're behind the Honda/Evo/Subaru guys

[jbrehm]

not looking to really spend a ton

Missed that one

I would find a blown AEB head for cheap, put in all new valves (inconel exhaust), and upgraded springs now. Cams will be a pretty easy swap in for when you're ready to drop the cash and/or need another 50HP Of course, do cams now if you can swing it.

You can run your small-port manifold with a transition spacer to defer that cost as well.

[pete@integrated]

AEB head, proper valve job & check & replace the guides if neccessary- most of the time they are shot. Everything else you can do later as it the head won't need to come off.

I wouldn't recommend taking a zillion year old, unknown AEB head and lapping in some valves, unless you are just a sucker for punishment. If the guides are shot, the valve job won't last at all- if there is even much of one left after who knows how many miles and getting smacked with bent valves... Hot tank the hell out of it too- the oil galleys are usually sludged up even on the "clean" looking ones.

Been buying a lot of those heads lately and at least 1/2 of them are useless for some reason or other I would say, so it's worth it to go through the basics carefully before you marry it by bolting it on.

Do check the installed height as well- many heads have been rebuild a lot of times now and some have sunk valve jobs. At best you won't get the spring pressure you should, at worst the hydraulic bucket won't be able to soak it up and you'll have valve(s) stuck open slightly.

[dubbin_boho]

AEB head, proper valve job & check & replace the guides if neccessary- most of the time they are shot. Everything else you can do later as it the head won't need to come off.

I wouldn't recommend taking a zillion year old, unknown AEB head and lapping in some valves, unless you are just a sucker for punishment. If the guides are shot, the valve job won't last at all- if there is even much of one left after who knows how many miles and getting smacked with bent valves... Hot tank the hell out of it too- the oil galleys are usually sludged up even on the "clean" looking ones.

Been buying a lot of those heads lately and at least 1/2 of them are useless for some reason or other I would say, so it's worth it to go through the basics carefully before you marry it by bolting it on.

Do check the installed height as well- many heads have been rebuild a lot of times now and some have sunk valve jobs. At best you won't get the spring pressure you should, at worst the hydraulic bucket won't be able to soak it up and you'll have valve(s) stuck open slightly.

thanks for the tips


i'm going to look for an AEB head.. looking at going with supertech valves and IE springs and retainers.. eventually gonna get the IECVA1's when they're back in stock and the new IE intake manifold

[Mindfault]

You can check the valves integrtity with gasoline, or alcohol, pour it on there, and see if it leaks past the seat. If it leaks then you have a seat problem. But you would see if the valves touched the pistons, i can see on my pistons where the valves kissed the pistons a bit. If ur gonna do cva1 cams. Get a big port head. Small port heads just just flow enough. And those cva1 cams, when you get going, ur powerband doesnt end until you bounce off limiter. Theyre beast! I recommend them, matched with single keeper groove valves and keepers, and i.e. high rev spring and ull be on ur way! Sorry to see this. What head bolts were you isig when this hapenned? Go with arp. But **** looks good man. Keep it up! And get her going again!

[87vr6]

If you plan on revving out to 8500+ you need to build the head. Plain and simple. A stock head will not get you there. Also, highly recommended since you are 2.1L is to have the rotating assembly balanced very well....


"not looking to spend a ton"

Good luck for your goals then... Reliable costs money.

[Vegeta Gti]

stainless valves over inconel.no need for inconel if it is a street car.bending is better than breaking valves, stainless can take the abuse.

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[Cryser]

AEB, CLEAN THE **** OUT OF IT. I literally hot tanked my head ~10 times and still was cleaning **** off it by hand... lucky I had free run of a hot tank at that time. Check the valve guides and installed height, get shims from IE if needed.