2012 Passat HID DIY Install

[coffeemade]

I contacted DistantXtremes because I heard from some of my friends they had some very high quality HID kits. I talked it over with their customer service and determined that the best kit was the XE+ Premium 35w Slim H7 Kit in a 6000K color option.

I placed my order and in 3 days they where at my door By accident I got a 35W kit and a 50W kit. They corrected this by overnighting one of each so I could choose. The difference was minor but the 35W had a much cleaner look from the front end....driving down the road they looked very similar and the 35W kits are recommended over 50W kits, less energy usage.



I went to install them without paying any attention to a real DIY but I did read the section of this DIY about the wires and color codes http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/48555-post18.html (Thanks TDI Brad)

Please read this whole thing prior to starting so you won't feel like this later.

The below picture is for reference of what the back of 2012 VW Passat Headlight housing looks like:



This install was done by my friend Jasen and I documented it all. So just ignore the part where I keep saying “I”, because that was all him. I started by removing the headlight bulb from the driver and to my shock found this:



Yes, VW again has come up with their own unique bulb harness. I was determined to install the HID’s. I did find a set of headlight bulb adaptors from USP (Click here for the link) during my install which was too late and I didn't want to spend $24 for adaptors. I am cheap and with my buddies help and a Dremel we made it work. So in order for the bulb to fit you need to dremel out a nice big hole while retaining the front portion of the housing as seen below.





Once you have done this and saved yourself $24 now for the fun stuff. Install the new HID headlight.

HID bulb






When reinstalling the headlight keep in mind this notch is straight up and down.



Do that for each side.

Now onto wiring, refer to the picture above to locate the headlamp housing harness. Disconnect the harness. (I am terrible at getting these connectors off, so Jasen did that.) On either light you will notice the connector is numbered. The headlight wires are Pin 5 negative(-) and Pin 6 power (+). On both sides the negative wire is brown, but the power wires are different on each side so the driver side driver side is a yellow wire with a black strip and pass side wire is a yellow wire with a blue strip).

So you can splice, tap, or solder the wires. We soldered the wires to the ballasts.





I connected the HID harness to the ballasts and turned them on. We accidentally plugged the connector upside down so it was reverse but that doesn't cause damage, unconnected and reconnected and turned the HID on and first words out of my mouth. "Dam, I should have done this months ago!!!"



I was driving down the road back to my house and it was the first time I felt like I was back in my GTI. The lights look awesome and cutoff on the HID is really nice.


This is my google plus photo gallery for the install

All of these pictures were taken with a camera phone, so later I plan to post some nice HD photos of what the front end looks like at night.

[coffeemade]

Reserved for some HD photos of the HIDs at night









Keep in mind the below picture is with HID's and fog lights on.





Click here to check out my google plus album for more photos

[writeb]

Just chiming in to say awesome mod. I won't personally be doing this, but seems like this will definitely be helpful to some folks!

[But Officer....]

Nice job. Now your car is equipped the way it should been in the first place....

[cheapa55TDI]

Good job on the write up. Too much work for me but I can't wait to see better pics with the light on in "HD".

[writeb]

Armchair feedback:

Re: Vs. Soldiering the wires, how come you didn't go the tap splice or even adding molex connectors so you can remove more easily, route?

I'm sure you've taped up the soldiered connections well, but it seems like a short waiting to happen(?)

[coffeemade]

Nice job. Now your car is equipped the way it should been in the first place....

Totally agree with you on this

Armchair feedback:
Re: Vs. Soldiering the wires, how come you didn't go the tap splice or even adding molex connectors so you can remove more easily, route?
I'm sure you've taped up the soldiered connections well, but it seems like a short waiting to happen(?)

This isn't my first modded car. When I first started modding cars I used butt connectors and t-taps but over time with shaking and age the connections would loosen and I would have to go and redo the same connection over and over. I am not the best at soldering but my buddy is awesome at it and he didn't want to just do a simple t-tap, so he soldered the wires. Yes, I used electrical tape and I will hopefully take come pictures of what the finished install looks under the hood. I have read others having flickering issues with their lights and they are using t-taps, I aven't had it even once.

Like I said during my write up "So you can splice, tap, or solder the wires. We soldered the wires to the ballasts." Just make a good electrical connection because if you don't you will troubleshoot for hours and will not be happy with the product when it is just a poor connection.

Good job on the write up. Too much work for me but I can't wait to see better pics with the light on in "HD".

Last night I went to take pictures and just as I am about to walk out it starts raining.....but I got some this morning I will post later tonight.

[byrdman27615]

Was there any issue finding a place to put the ballast? Nice installation and write-up. Would you recommend the 6000k bulbs after driving it for a few days now?

[coffeemade]

Was there any issue finding a place to put the ballast? Nice installation and write-up. Would you recommend the 6000k bulbs after driving it for a few days now?

Nope, I used double sided velcro and some zip ties. I should have some photos of that tonight

6000K is perfect, very clean ice white, not blue and not white halogen, just perfect. i will have some photos up tonight

[BudPytko]

FYI - it would be MUCH better to use shrink tubing over soldered connections, THEN cover with electrical tape. The tape will eventually come loose because of summer heat/winter cooling but the heat shrink will protect it from shorting out! Just a hint for the future from a retired electronics tech.

[coffeemade]

FYI - it would be MUCH better to use shrink tubing over soldered connections, THEN cover with electrical tape. The tape will eventually come loose because of summer heat/winter cooling but the heat shrink will protect it from shorting out! Just a hint for the future from a retired electronics tech.

Ok I guess if I was to depin the headlight harness so that I would be able to access each wire but I am not good at doing that and that is way too much work. But I did use a special linerless 3M electrical tape over the electrical tape to make sure it was sealled almost like shrink wrap.

So when are you doing some electrical DIY so I can see that cool shrink tubing?

[BudPytko]

I "HOPE" never!!!! LOL As I am now in my 70's, I bought the bestest "no work yourself" warranty that money can buy!! Well, for 7 more years anyway.... even if I get a parking lot ding on my door, I call an 800 # and they come fix it for me! I've been wrenching long enough!

[wakkigy]

I "HOPE" never!!!! LOL As I am now in my 70's, I bought the bestest "no work yourself" warranty that money can buy!! Well, for 7 more years anyway.... even if I get a parking lot ding on my door, I call an 800 # and they come fix it for me! I've been wrenching long enough!

Was that with the extended warranty?

[wakkigy]

Btw, I found these while looking for an adaptor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290691702061...ht_9005wt_1070

For $4 a pair, I gave them a try and will see how it goes

[BudPytko]

Was that with the extended warranty?

Yup!

[BudPytko]

Btw, I found these while looking for an adaptor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290691702061...ht_9005wt_1070

For $4 a pair, I gave them a try and will see how it goes

I ran the compatibility check and it says Not for 2012 Passat.

[wakkigy]

I ran the compatibility check and it says Not for 2012 Passat.

Yea, I am crossing my finger on this one. So, we will see

[TDI Brad]

Yea, I am crossing my finger on this one. So, we will see

Those adapters look just like the ones I used on my car, which were included with the HID from uspmotorsports.com. So they should work.

[coffeemade]

Uploaded some photos and added a ton to my G+ gallery.

Click here to check out my google plus album for more photos

[joedm]

wow, although strictly speaking, HID bulbs should be used in a proper HID projector housing, the beam shots from these in the standard reflector looks very good.

Good concentration where you want the output, and not too much bleed above where the cutoff should be (well at least from what I can see in these photos).

Any reason why you didn't just go with a projector install (something like a Morimoto MH1) since you had to do some cutting anyway?

Anymore pics coming?
I'm interested in some pics on a very dark road so I can get a better idea of glare, width etc.

[wakkigy]

wow, although strictly speaking, HID bulbs should be used in a proper HID projector housing, the beam shots from these in the standard reflector looks very good.

Good concentration where you want the output, and not too much bleed above where the cutoff should be (well at least from what I can see in these photos).

Any reason why you didn't just go with a projector install (something like a Morimoto MH1) since you had to do some cutting anyway?

Anymore pics coming?
I'm interested in some pics on a very dark road so I can get a better idea of glare, width etc.

AFAIK, there is minimal cutting needed on the housing (except on the back of the plastic bulb cover)

[coffeemade]

wow, although strictly speaking, HID bulbs should be used in a proper HID projector housing, the beam shots from these in the standard reflector looks very good.

Good concentration where you want the output, and not too much bleed above where the cutoff should be (well at least from what I can see in these photos).

Any reason why you didn't just go with a projector install (something like a Morimoto MH1) since you had to do some cutting anyway?

Anymore pics coming?
I'm interested in some pics on a very dark road so I can get a better idea of glare, width etc.

Yeah I plan to post more pictures, just need to find the time and with how much day light we get and because I work I haven't had the time. maybe this weekend :-)


About the projector install while I really like what TCM GLX did in this thread I am not that skilled and the cut off on these HIDs is really nice.

[cfo20]

coffeemade,

Did you have to buy/install the bulb out warning cancelers with the XE kit that you installed? I really like the look of your kit, but it is on the expensive side...at least expensive for me

[coffeemade]

coffeemade,

Did you have to buy/install the bulb out warning cancelers with the XE kit that you installed? I really like the look of your kit, but it is on the expensive side...at least expensive for me

You can try calling them and talking to them and telling them you saw my passat on VWVortex forum and see if they can offer you a deal

I didn't have to buy/install any bulb out warning cancelers. Oh and another thing is I didn't have to screw the ballasts into anything ( I know their is a note on them to do that) I just used double sided velcro but you could use double sided 3M stick tape.

[McFuzz]

As someone who has done a bagillion and one HID installs/retrofits, I have mixed feelings about this project...

On the pro side I have to say that it looks awesome - easy install, and the look of the car is vastly improved.

But on the con side I'd have to agree (as others stated) that Halogen reflectors should not house HID bulbs. These reflectors are designed to spread halogen bulb light and thus create a nice clean cutoff line. HID bulbs have a longer filament and need a different curvature for the reflector... while this setup looks significantly better than most other setups I've seen (where a halogen housing is used with HID bulbs), there's still a lot of bleeding and I am fairly certain it causes some discomfort/annoyance to those who are ahead of the car...

Just my two cents.

[coffeemade]

As someone who has done a bagillion and one HID installs/retrofits, I have mixed feelings about this project...

On the pro side I have to say that it looks awesome - easy install, and the look of the car is vastly improved.

But on the con side I'd have to agree (as others stated) that Halogen reflectors should not house HID bulbs. These reflectors are designed to spread halogen bulb light and thus create a nice clean cutoff line. HID bulbs have a longer filament and need a different curvature for the reflector... while this setup looks significantly better than most other setups I've seen (where a halogen housing is used with HID bulbs), there's still a lot of bleeding and I am fairly certain it causes some discomfort/annoyance to those who are ahead of the car...

Just my two cents.

Well last night put everyone's complaining to a rest including what people started to make me feel. Please look below and there are more pictures to come to prove this kit is exceptional. Not All HID kits are created equally, but XE+ Premium 35w Slim H7 Kit in a 6000K color option works awesome in the Passat.

__________________________________________________ ________________________________

Met up with VeeDubTDI and compu_85 so we could get some comparison of the HID's compared to stock. They were both impressed and provided me with some observations this is being quoted from TDIclub.com:

Interesting observations:
-Beam cutoff is more defined on the halogen lights, but the cutoff is still acceptable with the HIDs.
-Traditional HID retrofit scatter is nearly nonexistent.
-Color temperature and light output are incredible compared to the halogen lights.
-Oncoming intensity has increased proportionately with light output. The focus is good enough to prevent blinding - at least in my opinion while viewing from several oncoming positions.
-Beam pattern on the road in front of you appears to be excellent - as good or better than the stock lights.

So I updated my G+ gallery located here

Stopped on a hill just before I met up with VeeDubTDI and Jason


Driving down the road side by side (HID kit on left and factory H7 on right:







The stock H7 is on the left in the photo and the HID is on the right.


So these are basically all the photos I got, I wish I hadn't quit but I know VeeDubTDI and compu_85 had better camera skillz than me.

[compu_85]

Here are some of the pictures I got:





Note that both cars have the same scatter up high on the wall, the HIDs are just brighter:







HID:



Halogen:



I didn't expect to like these when I first read about the retrofit. They are not perfect... but the pattern is better than most of the mis-aimed, clouded over headlights on a lot of cars around here. At $100 I think I will get one of the 4300k kits to try

I think this kit works so well because the H7 lamp is laid out along the same plane as the HID lamp:



-Jason

[cheapa55TDI]

Great pics! Thanks for sharing. I am impressed by the brightness and color (if the pics accurately depict those attributes). Too bad I'm too lazy to install them.

[coffeemade]

Great pics! Thanks for sharing. I am impressed by the brightness and color (if the pics accurately depict those attributes). Too bad I'm too lazy to install them.

Well the color is as close as you can get, keep in mind that this was taken with 2 different Canon cameras:

Compu_85's camera (Camera was on manually settings)


Coffeemade's camera (Camera was set on auto with a no flash setting)


Ok let's take a vote who's camera is better

2 votes for me cause my lights are twice as bright

[magrider]

Having done HID retrofits myself, just want to give my 2 cents on this.

First I don't think putting HID into halogen reflectors is a good idea in general. The reasons for that are mentioned above.

However there is another problem that I don't think others have mentioned. In the OP's conversion, the HID ballasts seem draw power directly from the factory headlight harness. In general, this is NOT a good idea. The reason has to do with how a HID system draws current. Since a HID system use less power than a halogen bulb(typically 35w compared to 55w), it is intuitive to think that the current draw of a HID system should be less than a halogen bulb. This is indeed true, most of the time. However, when a HID system is turned on, it typically draws a large amount of current for several hundred microseconds. This is because the ballasts need to generate very high voltages in order to create the initial spark in the HID bulb. This initial current draw can be in access of 10-20 amps(http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=338385), compared to ~5 amps of a factory halogen bulb. Your factory harness might not be built to handle such high currents. Even if your fuse doesn't blow(I hope it would), who knows what damage you could do to your factory harness over a long period of time.

The right way to hook up an HID system is to use a harness with proper gauge wires that draws power from your battery directly, while using a relay that is triggered by your factory harness. The typical automotive relay is rated for 40+ amps, which is more than enough to handle the peak current draw of a typical HID system.

[coffeemade]

Having done HID retrofits myself, just want to give my 2 cents on this.

First I don't think putting HID into halogen reflectors is a good idea in general. The reasons for that are mentioned above.

However there is another problem that I don't think others have mentioned. In the OP's conversion, the HID ballasts seem draw power directly from the factory headlight harness. In general, this is NOT a good idea. The reason has to do with how a HID system draws current. Since a HID system use less power than a halogen bulb(typically 35w compared to 55w), it is intuitive to think that the current draw of a HID system should be less than a halogen bulb. This is indeed true, most of the time. However, when a HID system is turned on, it typically draws a large amount of current for several hundred microseconds. This is because the ballasts need to generate very high voltages in order to create the initial spark in the HID bulb. This initial current draw can be in access of 10-20 amps(http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=338385), compared to ~5 amps of a factory halogen bulb. Your factory harness might not be built to handle such high currents. Even if your fuse doesn't blow(I hope it would), who knows what damage you could do to your factory harness over a long period of time.

The right way to hook up an HID system is to use a harness with proper gauge wires that draws power from your battery directly, while using a relay that is triggered by your factory harness. The typical automotive relay is rated for 40+ amps, which is more than enough to handle the peak current draw of a typical HID system.

I am going right now to remove these HID's from my car because of your post

The Chinese Passat is equipped with HID's and I bet if you checked voltage it would be the same or simliar to this set up. The computer is coded different to support the LED DRL's but I am sure the computer and the wires can handle the power on a car that is factory equipped in China with them.

I have not had a single blown fuse or even a bulb out light. I haven't had to vagcom the car for any light issue. I don't have the time and I think its above my expertise to take apart my lights to install some $200-400ish projectors or for $1200 for non-working chinese lights due to unknown coding.

I am happy you signed up for VWVortex account so you could provide us with all your knowledge. I can't wait to see your car modification write ups I really hope you stay around so you can keep providing everyone with all your acura/honda knowledge.

[magrider]

I am going right now to remove these HID's from my car because of your post

The Chinese Passat is equipped with HID's and I bet if you checked voltage it would be the same or simliar to this set up. The computer is coded different to support the LED DRL's but I am sure the computer and the wires can handle the power on a car that is factory equipped in China with them.

I have not had a single blown fuse or even a bulb out light. I haven't had to vagcom the car for any light issue. I don't have the time and I think its above my expertise to take apart my lights to install some $200-400ish projectors or for $1200 for non-working chinese lights due to unknown coding.

I am happy you signed up for VWVortex account so you could provide us with all your knowledge. I can't wait to see your car modification write ups I really hope you stay around so you can keep providing everyone with all your acura/honda knowledge.

No need to get all cranky dude. It's your car, you can do whatever you want with it. I am simply pointing out FACTS that are relevant for others who might want to follow your guide. I do not know one way or the other if the Chinese Passat uses the same headlight harness as the American one, thus I said GENERALLY this is not a good idea and MIGHT cause problems. If the harness is the same, great. But since the American Passat does not even have HID headlight as an option, is built at a different plant, and that thinner gauge wires are cheaper than thicker ones, is not not reasonable to suspect the harness is not the same? Btw is there anything factually incorrect with my post? Sure I worked on a Honda before, but as far as I know physics doesn't change just because the car brand did.

Oh yeah BTW you didn't blow any fuses, that's good. 300 microseconds is not a very long time, 0.0003 seconds actually. My guess is such a short duration current spike is not enough to burn through an automotive fuse. I just wonder what effects these spikes will have on the other electrical components connected to the harness.

[compu_85]

Oh yeah BTW you didn't blow any fuses, that's good. 300 microseconds is not a very long time, 0.0003 seconds actually. My guess is such a short duration current spike is not enough to burn through an automotive fuse. I just wonder what effects these spikes will have on the other electrical components connected to the harness.

This is a good point and something I was thinking about earlier today. My biggest fear would be damaging the body control module. I think it's using some sort of MOSFET? The computer can control the voltage going to the headlights. Cars with factory HIDs have nothing between the ballast and the BCM so I would venture it's rated for that kind of load. I'd love to get my hands on a spare one to take apart and see what kind of output drivers it has

I also wonder if that inrush draw could be short enough to not blow the fuse, but high enough to damage the BCM? I wish I had a meter that could measure the inrush draw.

-J

[Kubla84]

Incandescent bulbs (halogen bulbs are incandescent) also have an inrush current of about 5X operating amps, which is why you never use fast acting fuses in any lighting circuit

[LUK Design]

Do I need to have a CANBUS HID system in order to be installed into the 2012 Passat TDI ??

Please help. Thanks!