New chain = problems with crank

[V-TEC this!!!]

Last year I bought a used bike unknown mileage and unknown history of maintenance, so this year I decided to replace a few things on it and bring it up good standards. Did some brake work, new fork, new tires. Then decided to replace the chain since it was making noise, well everything went great, new chain went on, first ride took it really easy to make sure everything is good and it was nice and smooth and quiet. (cant believe how much noise the old chain was making). This was yesterday, move on to today go take the bike for a ride start getting into it and the chain starts to skip....I look down while applying moderate force and the chain bulges out on the crank, then skips.

From the research I have done, it turns out to most likely be worn teeth on the crank?

What do you guys think? Replace the crank and cassette and keep up with chain replacements?

[simple]

Yes, definitely replace the chainrings and cassette. You get even better results if you do cables and housing at the same time. It will feel like a new bike for not much $$$

[wearyourtruth]

most professionals will suggest (and not just when they are getting paid to work on your bike) that you should replace the chain, chainrings, and cassette at the same time to ensure the best results.

[SpeedyD]

most professionals will suggest (and not just when they are getting paid to work on your bike) that you should replace the chain, chainrings, and cassette at the same time to ensure the best results.

They will suggest it - yet in 25 years of serious riding I have never replaced anything but the chain and have never had one problem. I change chains roughly every 5k miles. Sometimes people suggest things for a reason that doesn't have anything to do with actual need.

[JohnEcanuck]

In my 35 years on the road, every time I need to replace the chain, the cogs (not necessarily all of them since the advent of cassettes) will need to be replaced. Worn cogs will look like hooked dog teeth, so when you put a fresh chain on those cogs, you'll get skipping. This could happen with the chain rings too, but chainrings are much harder on the moar scale than cogs, so not too likely.

[kanukVariant]

They will suggest it - yet in 25 years of serious riding I have never replaced anything but the chain and have never had one problem. I change chains roughly every 5k miles. Sometimes people suggest things for a reason that doesn't have anything to do with actual need.

Therein lies the key. If you replace your chain frequently enough, i.e. before it has stretched too much, all rings and cogs will still work. Chain stretch is obviously a function of mileage, but also of riding conditions and cleaning / lubrication regimen. "They" (Park, etc.) sell tools to measure stretch if you want to get technical, but for my purposes one chain = one season of riding.

kaNUK

PS - And seeing this is a di@k measuring contest: I've only been road racing for 33 years.

[V-TEC this!!!]

Thanks for the replies, will take it in to LBS.

How many of you check the chain wear? Or do most of you just replace every season/5000kms? I know everyone has their own theory and it is a pissing contest but does every 5000km sound about right?

The riding I do is mostly commuting, plus weekend trail riding, plus I dont ride from July - October since during that time Im in Canada. (study abroad in Poland).

[SpeedyD]

It's not a pissing contest! Jesus, when did sharing experience become a pissing contest!

[wearyourtruth]

i basically ride until a problem shows up, then i may check my chain wear, among other things. but i'm not a racer, i'm never going to blow a lead coming out of the final turn because of my chain skipping. i, like the OP, spend most of my riding commuting and casual riding, and a skipping chain is a little obnoxious but is never going to prevent me from getting home

i've only been riding for a measly 10 years :'(

[kanukVariant]

It's not a pissing contest! Jesus, when did sharing experience become a pissing contest!

I'm just sad I didn't win (sorry joke icon was not previously supplied: )

OP - Seeing you are experiencing problems, the previous chain was stretched beyond acceptable limits. Once rings & cogs are replaced, check your new chain for stretch once in a while or keep track of mileage as per previous posts.

kaNUK

[simple]

It's not a pissing contest! Jesus, when did sharing experience become a pissing contest!

Because you missed the point that the OP needs new drivetrain parts. Then you dismissed people who would suggest the need to replace parts. You caused confusion and only demonstrated that you follow better guidelines for maintaining your drivetrain. What you do for your bike doesn't matter. What he/she does for their bike is the question.

Clear?

[audi666]

also make sure that there isnt a link that binding which can cause a skip under torque.

[JohnEcanuck]

also make sure that there isnt a link that binding which can cause a skip under torque.

Good point.. forgot about that. A stiff link (that's what she said, lol) can be a PITA on a ride.

[V-TEC this!!!]

as of right now i replaced the two smallest chain rings (22T and 32T), but have not been able to take the bike out for a ride to verify that it is all good. Also found a rear cassette (sram) for a killer deal and I think I might go pick it up even if I don't change it right away. The price is equivalent to about $15USD.

Thanks for all the replies, I will report back to verify everything is good.

[audi666]

if it skips in only specific gears its the cassette. if it skips in all of them its most likely the chain.

[V-TEC this!!!]

I replaced the 22t and 32t chain rings and all is good.

Thanks for the help guys, will replace the cassette with the next chain replacement.

Cheers, Mike