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    Thread: should I really do a dyno before i swap my cam?

    1. Member vacuumnoise's Avatar
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      05-30-2012 03:33 PM #1
      dyno is $100 in Newark, NJ

      current setup:
      custom intake arm w/ Spectre Air Filter, OBX header, 42 Draft Designs hi-flow cat, Techtonics 2.25" exhaust w/ Dynomax muffler., manual clutch cable, Gruvenparts billet lightweight crank & alternator pulleys, TT 260* cam with AEG lifters, & BFI PEM stg.2 chip

      plan on swapping in a TT 268 asymmetrical cam...

      WTB: 276* cam

    2. Moderator root beer's Avatar
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      05-30-2012 03:36 PM #2
      Swap it on the dyno!

    3. Member vacuumnoise's Avatar
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      05-30-2012 04:27 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      Swap it on the dyno!
      lol, how much is that gonna cost me?
      WTB: 276* cam

    4. 05-31-2012 06:35 AM #4
      Haha...definitely swap it on the dyno! Hey, if the shop isnt busy, I don't see what the problem would be. I mean, it shouldn't take you more than 20-30 minutes to hot swap that out. It will be a little hot, but just wear gloves. It would be great to see where the powerband moves to going to the 268.

    5. Member vacuumnoise's Avatar
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      05-31-2012 01:36 PM #5
      I probably will dyno it prior to the 268FI cam...

      WTB: 276* cam

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      06-01-2012 06:28 AM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by vacuumnoise View Post
      I probably will dyno it prior to the 268FI cam...

      In for results. I have the same set up to the T. I'm running a racecraft Sri though and moving from 268 to a 272. So I deff would love to see results.
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    7. Member vacuumnoise's Avatar
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      06-02-2012 01:59 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by b5blazing View Post
      In for results. I have the same set up to the T. I'm running a racecraft Sri though and moving from 268 to a 272. So I deff would love to see results.
      how was the change to a SRI on the butt dyno?
      WTB: 276* cam

    8. Member 20jetta98's Avatar
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      06-02-2012 03:08 PM #8
      i have a 268 and it messed with my springs i think i have a thread going right now.. need some opinions... it ran fine for about and hr... started driving and it just shut off... idk if i compressed a spring too much.

    9. Member 20jetta98's Avatar
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      06-02-2012 03:09 PM #9
      i put my stock cam to see... and its running rough as hell when it does wana start so i have no idea... and im gettting a p0341

    10. 06-02-2012 04:46 PM #10
      That codes is because it's not timed correctly. Your intermediate shaft is off if it's running rough.



    11. Member 20jetta98's Avatar
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      06-02-2012 08:44 PM #11
      i completely understand what ur saying... But putting in the 268* cam with new lifters on single valvespring setup could that have done anything.. Techtonics said i would be ok up until 6500rpm... i didnt even go past that... so my issue is there something wrong with the valvetrain or no...

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      06-03-2012 08:22 AM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by vacuumnoise View Post
      how was the change to a SRI on the butt dyno?
      Huge difference throttle response like whoa. It's sick sounds like a Honda cause the intake noise is so loud
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      06-03-2012 08:28 AM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by 20jetta98 View Post
      i completely understand what ur saying... But putting in the 268* cam with new lifters on single valvespring setup could that have done anything.. Techtonics said i would be ok up until 6500rpm... i didnt even go past that... so my issue is there something wrong with the valvetrain or no...
      I would re time the motor po341 OSS camshaft pos sensor. Aka timing is off by a tooth or more each tooth on a timing gear is roughly 8deg.
      268 should be fine in stock head.
      Most likely the tensioner slipped on you after you started driving and that's why is runs rough, remember to turn tensioner up not down. As the rotation of the timing belt will pull it loose if it's down
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    14. Member vacuumnoise's Avatar
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      06-03-2012 01:54 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by b5blazing View Post
      Huge difference throttle response like whoa. It's sick sounds like a Honda cause the intake noise is so loud
      O I'm sure it sounds better than a Honda
      WTB: 276* cam

    15. Member 20jetta98's Avatar
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      06-04-2012 12:00 AM #15
      Got the timing perfect and car running but its running rough and crappy as ****... Think cam did damage... Any suggestions...

    16. Member ps2375's Avatar
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      06-04-2012 12:17 AM #16
      compression test.
      Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

    17. Member 20jetta98's Avatar
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      06-04-2012 08:07 AM #17
      I blew are in the cyl and it slowly goes down... I'm thinking leaky valve seals or worse case valves which suck cause I have no other car...

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      06-05-2012 07:38 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by 20jetta98 View Post
      I blew are in the cyl and it slowly goes down... I'm thinking leaky valve seals or worse case valves which suck cause I have no other car...
      Pull the valve cover ad the cam see if the lifters are all flush (sitting at same height) in the head. I have stuck a spring open. Shoot a little assemble lube down each lifter and a think I used a 20mm socket and gave a little tap and unstuck it.
      Question when you put cam in did you use adjustable cam gear? Or try to advance retard cam timing?
      They say 8vs are non interference but with a cam in you can smack valves. the Clarence is lost at 7 teeth from TDC.
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    19. Member 20jetta98's Avatar
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      06-05-2012 11:27 AM #19
      stock cam gear and didnt try to retard or advance timing... ill try that trick.. thanks for it... dude text me bro... 860-777-8484... plz.

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