Vakuum leak? 1.8t

[auto2012]

Hey
I am new to this forum and I have a question about my car.
I have a passat 1.8t b5.5 with 150hp
Some months ago I chipped it and it drives very good and I also changed the diverter valve to a 710N.

But now it is fast, but sometimes it just feels like it doesn't hold boost as it should. and I hear a very loud psss sound just like a BOV when i shift.



Could it be the 710N which has been broken ?

Or is it a vacuum line to the DV that has a leak?

[Steve in Chicago]

Do you have a boost gauge? One of those will help you monitor boost production.
Is the CEL lit? If so, have it scanned for codes and post all the code numbers in this thread.
Is your intake stock or modified? An open intake will allow more of the DV noise out.
With a Passat of that age, it's a good idea to inspect all the vacuum lines and replace as needed.

[auto2012]

I don't have a boost gauge
and I don't know what cel is.
The intake is not modified. I will try to check the vacuum lines. But could it be the DV?

[auto2012]

What about the lines connection the DV should i change them with silikone ?

[Steve in Chicago]

CEL stands for Check Engine Light.



When that light comes on, the car is telling you something is wrong and needs to be checked as soon as possible. If it's flashing, it's telling you something is SERIOUSLY wrong and you should probably not drive the car. When that light comes on, the engine computer will store some trouble-code numbers. A scan tool can get those code numbers for you. Then you need to look up the code descriptions and interpenetrate what the mean. With that info you can then troubleshoot the problem.

Change any and all lines that need to be changed. If it's breaking/cracking/splitting/leaking/crumbling... replace it. You don't need to use silicone. Rubber hose will work just as well.

You might have a boost leak somewhere. Build yourself a boost-leak-tester and test the intake path.
https://www.google.com/search?q=boos...w=1280&bih=893

[Slimjimmn]

FORGE 007

[Steve in Chicago]

The 701N DV should be more than capable of handling a chipped K03 turbo. Just make sure it's installed properly and the hose connections aren't leaking.

[auto2012]

1 Fault Found:
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

There is no cel light. But the car I behaving very strange it is making strange noises and that code came on. I deleted it and it came back again.

[auto2012]

CEL stands for Check Engine Light.



When that light comes on, the car is telling you something is wrong and needs to be checked as soon as possible. If it's flashing, it's telling you something is SERIOUSLY wrong and you should probably not drive the car. When that light comes on, the engine computer will store some trouble-code numbers. A scan tool can get those code numbers for you. Then you need to look up the code descriptions and interpenetrate what the mean. With that info you can then troubleshoot the problem.

Change any and all lines that need to be changed. If it's breaking/cracking/splitting/leaking/crumbling... replace it. You don't need to use silicone. Rubber hose will work just as well.

You might have a boost leak somewhere. Build yourself a boost-leak-tester and test the intake path.
https://www.google.com/search?q=boos...w=1280&bih=893

Also it is saying that the oil pressure is to low or something in German. And the coolant almost exploded when I opened the coolant container like water all over.

[scotts13]

Also it is saying that the oil pressure is to low or something in German. And the coolant almost exploded when I opened the coolant container like water all over.

Ahhh... OK. First, you want to make sure exactly what that oil pressure warning is. Describe precisely what the message is, what lights come on, what sounds are made, etc. Your engine is prone to a low-pressure condition (look up "sludge") that can quickly damage the engine. If you're really getting a low oil pressure warning you should pull over - now, not later.

Also, under what circumstances did you open the coolant reservoir cap? Engine hot?

[auto2012]

Yes the Engine was hot. I had driven it hard before I opened it. The screen on the dash board said STOP and it sad oil pressure is to low.

[auto2012]

I have changed the oil and now it warning does not come. And the car drives normally

[scotts13]

If you're getting low oil pressure warnings (and the STOP) warning, take it very, very seriously. Get an oil pressure gauge hooked up and check for proper pressure at a known temperature and RPM. The usual problem is a clogged screen over the pickup tube on the oil pump; and the usual fix is to drop the pan and clean - better still replace - the screen, tube, and pump.

Just because you're not getting the warning THIS MOMENT doesn't mean you're safe.

[Steve in Chicago]

Before you changed the oil, did you check the oil level? If you were a couple quarts low, you can get a pressure warning if you corner hard (or a highway ramp) and suck air into the pump.

Like Scott suggested, get an oil pressure gauge installed. These engines are prone to sludge up if not cared for properly. If you catch low oil pressure due to sludge early enough, the engine can be saved. If you let it go on too long, the engine will suffer permanent damage.

Never open the cooling system cap when the engine is hot. This goes for any car. The coolant can be under pressure and hotter then the temperature of boiling water. You can get severely burned. No joke. Look at the little picture on the top of that cap. It's a picture of hot water and steam shooting out of the opening. That picture is there as a warning.

[auto2012]

I was driving very hard in the corners I have just lowered the car so wanted to test how it performs in corners, but the their was enough oil in it.

Okay so I should take of the pan and clean the pump and clean the clogged screen ?

[scotts13]

Okay so I should take of the pan and clean the pump and clean the clogged screen ?

Dropping the pan on a 1.8T is a non-trivial task. Many, if not most of them get it done eventually, but make sure you review a write-up on the subject before starting. Personally, I'd check the pressure first.

[auto2012]

I won't do it my self. I am handing the car over to a mechanic. How can a test the oil pressure. Can it be done via vagcom?

[scotts13]

How can a test the oil pressure. Can it be done via vagcom?

No, but it's not hard. You'll need the oil pressure gauge, and probably an adapter fitting. Neither is expensive at a decent auto parts store. You unscrew the oil pressure switch (near the oil filter) and screw it in. The fitting is very specific - a tapered thread - and you'll need the english/metric adapter.

You'll also need to find a table of recommended pressures at a given temperature and RPM. That should be in the service manual for the car, or maybe someone here can look it up.

[Slimjimmn]

oil pressure can be checked via 17 (instruments) and mvb 110? It shows psi to cluster for cluster to set low pressure light.

But the correct way is removing the pressure sensor on the oilfilter housing and hooking up a gauge.

[Steve in Chicago]

As far as I know, that won't work on this model car. The sender isn't a scaled pressure sensor. It's a simple switch that goes closed to ground above a specific pressure. The cluster can only see if that circuit is open or closed to ground. Vag-com can see the state of that switch/circuit through the instruments controller.

The oil ports on the 1.8t filter flange are M10x1 straight threads with a washer seal. Most oil pressure gauges you find are 1/8"NPT tapered threads and seal at the threads. The two thread types are so similar that the one will feel like it threads properly into the other. The proper way to make this connection is to use an adapter. Some gauge kits will include one and some won't.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1832

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/M10x...ptor_p_57.html

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accesso...il.aspx?vid=55

If you don't have an unused port, you can T off the port used by the OEM pressure sensor switch.
http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-O...Kit_p_314.html

[auto2012]

Thank you guys for your answers. I am going to the mechanic tomorrow.

Isnt it possible to check the pressure via a manometer ?

1. Take the Pan off and change the screen in the oil pump and also check the bearings.
2 change the oil filter and oil. I have always used 5:40 mobil1. Fully synthetic

[auto2012]

What If the oil pressure is normal should I still clean the oil pump ?

And what is the normal oil pressure?

[auto2012]

?

[Slimjimmn]

1.8t I believe its 1.2bar at idle and 1.8bar at 2000rpm?

no reason to do anything oil pump wise if the pressure is fine.

[Steve in Chicago]

These are specs from the Bentley Manual.
Oil pressure switch switching range: 17.5-26 psi
Idle pressure @ 176ºF: 30 psi or better
2,000 RPM pressure @ 176ºF: 44-65 psi

The hotter the oil gets, the thinner it will become and the lower the oil pressure will drop. At cold start you'll see your highest readings.

For whatever reason, VW set up the cluster so it doesn't light up the low oil pressure warning below about 2,000 rpm's. You could have 2 psi oil pressure at idle rpm and the car wouldn't warn you.

[auto2012]

We tested the oil pressure and it was normal.
And changed the oil from 5/40 full synthetic to 5/30 full synthetic.
Now the warning has not come on.

The oil light only comes on when you drive the car hard , really hard. I haven't driven it very hard so haven't tested whether is is going to come on again.

[Steve in Chicago]

The oil light only comes on when you drive the car hard, really hard. I haven't driven it very hard so haven't tested whether is is going to come on again.

When you drive the car hard, the oil temps go higher so the oil gets thinner. The thinner the oil, the lower the pressure.

Why did you change from 5W-40 to 5W-30 weight? The 5W-40 will be thicker and help create more pressure.

When you said the oil pressure was normal, did you measure the pressure at the designated temperature? When the engine coolant temperature gauge in the dash hits full temp (190ºF) the oil still isn't up to operating temp. It takes the oil longer to get fully heated.

[auto2012]

Because I have heard (castrol website) that 5:30 is best for 1.8t motors ? Isn't it?

We waited till the oil temp reached 80-90 degrees Celsius.

[scotts13]

Because I have heard (castrol website) that 5:30 is best for 1.8t motors ? Isn't it?

No. VW lists 5w30 as a substitute only if 5w40 can't be found. I would much, much prefer to accept the engine manufacturers advice over the oil company.

[auto2012]

Oh I I didn't know that. I will switch the oil again.
But it doesn't hurt driving with 5/30?

[auto2012]

But where does it say that vw recommend 5/40 full synth to 1.8t?

[scotts13]

But where does it say that vw recommend 5/40 full synth to 1.8t?

Several places. The owners manual (on later cars) for starters; also the VW approved oil list that's widely circulated. It basically states the oil must be VW 502.00 approved; doesn't specifically state full synthetic but no dino oil is on the list. Specified weight is 5w40 or 5w30 if that's unavailable. There are some exceptions - for instance Mobil 1 0w40 is on the recommended list.

BTW, the LACK of that recommendation in earlier manuals is most of why "sludge" is a bad word in 1.8T - land. Most cars started their lives on dino oil and it cost them.

[auto2012]

Ahh. I understand. I will use 5/40 shell ultra helix full synth. Is that good enough for a chipped engine approx 190hp. ?

[Steve in Chicago]

According to the Shell website, that one meets VW 502.00 specifications. If you've been running the car hard (especially if you're chipped) it's a good idea to take the last mile or so at an easy pace. Maybe let the car idle a minute before shutting it down. This gives the turbo a chance to cool down. When you shut it off, the oil in the turbo goes from flowing to stagnant. You don't want oil sitting stagnant in a red hot turbo. That's a good way to cook the oil into sludge/coke.

[auto2012]

Thanks for your help both I really appreciate that.