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    Thread: Atl-Atl's "documentation" thread.

    1. Member
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      08-11-2012 05:42 PM #106
      Quote Originally Posted by ginsy View Post
      Sorry, the GTI.
      Looks like Dutchie answered your question a few posts above.

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      08-16-2012 03:24 PM #107
      Sneak peak at my Cayenne BBK. Got it mocked up to test fit the wheels. Everything clears fine, its definitely spoke clearance not barrel clearance when it comes to fitting these calipers. I can definitely see how 17s would fit over these with the right spoke shape and offset. I don't have them "on" yet because I still need to rebuild and paint the calipers. Also I couldn't drop the car down to ride height because the stock brake caliper was still attached and just resting on the ground underneath the vehicle. Rotor in the pics is a Powerslot GL450 rotor. I grabbed the left one when I went downstairs to do this and didn't feel like walking back upstairs to get it, hence the slots on the rotor are backwards. One thing I did notice was the bleed valves and crossover lines are in the correct position, I don't have to swap them, this is contrary to every write up I have seen. I have been taking TONS of pics and will do a very in depth DIY thread with prices I paid for everything, install instructions etc. so keep an eye out for that. Hopefully I will have this all bolted up and done this weekend.




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      08-16-2012 07:38 PM #108
      So I just had a huge derp moment. After I mocked up the front right caliper I was about to pull apart both calipers and rebuild them when I realized I have TWO right sides!!! After a few minutes of research I find out the seller from ebay I bought one of the calipers from sent me the incorrect part. Not sure how this one slipped past me but it looks like its gonna be a bit before I get these on now.


    4. Member BrownBear's Avatar
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      08-16-2012 07:47 PM #109
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      So I just had a huge derp moment. After I mocked up the front right caliper I was about to pull apart both calipers and rebuild them when I realized I have TWO right sides!!! After a few minutes of research I find out the seller from ebay I bought one of the calipers from sent me the incorrect part. Not sure how this one slipped past me but it looks like its gonna be a bit before I get these on now.
      damnit that sucks

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      08-16-2012 09:03 PM #110
      Major bummer man. Hopefully the seller is cool and doesn't complicate things more than necessary.

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      08-16-2012 09:18 PM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by speeedfrk View Post
      Major bummer man. Hopefully the seller is cool and doesn't complicate things more than necessary.
      Their eBay policy says "no returns" but PayPal gave me the actually business name and phone number so I should be good!

    7. Member speeedfrk's Avatar
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      08-16-2012 09:24 PM #112
      No returns I'm sure if you regret your decision. But if they mess up and send you two of the same side, they should man up and do what's right. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

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      08-16-2012 10:40 PM #113
      Quote Originally Posted by speeedfrk View Post
      No returns I'm sure if you regret your decision. But if they mess up and send you two of the same side, they should man up and do what's right. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
      Yeah the hope is they will believe it was their fault and they will take care of it. Well see what happens. Fingers crossed here too. Otherwise my only option is selling one of my rights and finding a left.

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      08-21-2012 11:26 PM #114
      Quote Originally Posted by speeedfrk View Post
      No returns I'm sure if you regret your decision. But if they mess up and send you two of the same side, they should man up and do what's right. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
      So after a week or so of trying to figure this out I made some headway. The guy who sent me the incorrect part was ignoring my inter-eBay emails asking to exchange for the correct part so I started a dispute with eBay. Of course 5 minutes after I start the dispute he responds saying he will give me a full refund if I return the part. Great, now I have to spend money to ship it back, hope he is honest and admits its in the same shape as purchased and wait for him to refund my money.

      The fortunate thing is, the local salvage yard from which I bought the other right-side caliper has the matching left-side caliper. If I would have found this salvage yard before I bought the eBay caliper I would have simply bought them both from the same place. So now I will go buy the matching silver left side caliper from the local place and I'm ready to install the brakes. Problem is, now I will have matching silver calipers. Should I still bother painting them or do I leave them silver?

    10. Member BrownBear's Avatar
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      08-22-2012 12:05 AM #115
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      So after a week or so of trying to figure this out I made some headway. The guy who sent me the incorrect part was ignoring my inter-eBay emails asking to exchange for the correct part so I started a dispute with eBay. Of course 5 minutes after I start the dispute he responds saying he will give me a full refund if I return the part. Great, now I have to spend money to ship it back, hope he is honest and admits its in the same shape as purchased and wait for him to refund my money.

      The fortunate thing is, the local salvage yard from which I bought the other right-side caliper has the matching left-side caliper. If I would have found this salvage yard before I bought the eBay caliper I would have simply bought them both from the same place. So now I will go buy the matching silver left side caliper from the local place and I'm ready to install the brakes. Problem is, now I will have matching silver calipers. Should I still bother painting them or do I leave them silver?
      Don't be a negative Nancy....paint them

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      08-22-2012 12:14 AM #116
      Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
      Don't be a negative Nancy....paint them
      I know, I already have the paint I might as well.

      At this point I might wait to paint/install the brakes until I buy a wheel from Tirerack to see if I can cram a 17 over the calipers to run as my winter wheels. From what I have read with minor grinding on the calipers you can fit some 17" wheels over these puppies!

      Sorry we couldn't work out a meetup this weekend. Ill be back down in a month or so, otherwise you are welcome in Madison anytime.

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      08-22-2012 12:45 AM #117
      Since we didn't meet I wound up hangin on the rooftop at my buddies place on the near west side for a little beer, bags and saturday afternoon shenanigans during the air and water show, needless to say it was badass.


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      08-22-2012 01:50 AM #118
      I don't remember what the back of a 18z Caliper looks like off the top of my head, but couldn't you have just flipped the crossover tube?
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      08-22-2012 11:06 AM #119
      Quote Originally Posted by V8Star View Post
      I don't remember what the back of a 18z Caliper looks like off the top of my head, but couldn't you have just flipped the crossover tube?
      It is physically possible to do this however the pistons increase in diameter and are meant to be mounted in a particular direction. I don't want to mess with that.

    15. Member BrownBear's Avatar
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      08-22-2012 12:49 PM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      Since we didn't meet I wound up hangin on the rooftop at my buddies place on the near west side for a little beer, bags and saturday afternoon shenanigans during the air and water show, needless to say it was badass.
      Nice. I'm the only one in my family with a car or has the ability to drive....I mean my whole family. So my mom offers others that I'd do things for them without asking me first.

    16. Member psipassat's Avatar
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      08-22-2012 10:26 PM #121
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      So after a week or so of trying to figure this out I made some headway. The guy who sent me the incorrect part was ignoring my inter-eBay emails asking to exchange for the correct part so I started a dispute with eBay. Of course 5 minutes after I start the dispute he responds saying he will give me a full refund if I return the part. Great, now I have to spend money to ship it back, hope he is honest and admits its in the same shape as purchased and wait for him to refund my money.

      The fortunate thing is, the local salvage yard from which I bought the other right-side caliper has the matching left-side caliper. If I would have found this salvage yard before I bought the eBay caliper I would have simply bought them both from the same place. So now I will go buy the matching silver left side caliper from the local place and I'm ready to install the brakes. Problem is, now I will have matching silver calipers. Should I still bother painting them or do I leave them silver?
      I like the silver, I have them on my Cayenne S and they are pretty easy to clean. Though with the rears black, maybe painting them black would be good, so not to look boy racer. Up to you, just my 2 cents.
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      08-22-2012 11:18 PM #122
      Quote Originally Posted by psipassat View Post
      I like the silver, I have them on my Cayenne S and they are pretty easy to clean. Though with the rears black, maybe painting them black would be good, so not to look boy racer. Up to you, just my 2 cents.
      I'm not concerned about the boy racer look, my car is super subtle. If anything the stock brakes with a big R on them is kinda boy racer. Plus if anyone notices that I have 6 piston Brembos I don't think boy racer will be whats crossing their mind. Eventually I will be running the 4 piston rears with seperate e-brakes so they will all match again one day.

    18. Member psipassat's Avatar
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      08-23-2012 08:16 AM #123
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      I'm not concerned about the boy racer look, my car is super subtle. If anything the stock brakes with a big R on them is kinda boy racer. Plus if anyone notices that I have 6 piston Brembos I don't think boy racer will be whats crossing their mind. Eventually I will be running the 4 piston rears with seperate e-brakes so they will all match again one day.
      Wasn't saying anything bad, I think this is a badass build. Can't wait to see them on.
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      08-23-2012 10:25 AM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by psipassat View Post
      Wasn't saying anything bad, I think this is a badass build. Can't wait to see them on.
      No offense taken, I was simply responding.

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      08-31-2012 09:49 PM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      So I worked on my fender "massage" today. I think I have managed to make my setup work. For those that haven't been paying attention the goal is to make my 235-35-19 BFG G-Force TA KDWs on 19x8.5 et46 VMR V709s fit on my R with H&R Supersport springs. The front tires will still hit the fender if I hit a large bump with the wheels turned more than halfway or so but this is a pretty rare occurance. Other than that everything clears up front so I am happy. The rear tires are just barely rubbing on large bumps where the bolt connects the bumper cover to the fender. I have come to the conclusion that I cant fix this without stiffer shocks in the rear. I cant seem to remove this screw (even if I replace it with a beefy ziptie) and have the tires not rub while keeping the fender and bumper in line. It sits very low and I will probably just have to go with stiffer shocks. For a while I should be fine and it looks killer so...

      The only pics I'm missing are the ones showing the totally complete inside/top of the fenders with everything buttoned up the way I will leave it. I will snap those when theres time.

      First things first, I come from the land of low CG/big tire Jeeps so "massaged" fenders on VWs have a very different meaning than what I'm used to. This is an extremely delicate process compared to modding Jeep fenders. I tried using a fender roller, a laminate flooring roller, a heat gun to soften things up and none of it worked as well as a good ole hammer wrapped in electrical tape. For starters the liners are all held in by T25 torx screws except of course the bolt I am rubbing on in the rear is held in by a T20, certainly important this single screw would be different thanks VW.

      First things first perform the "fender screw mod" many people with lowered MKV and MKVI Golf body vehicles have done. There is a screw in the top/center of the front fender that sticks down pretty far. Remove the screw and plastic tab it screws into. There are two tabs with screws like this, one in the top/center of the fender and one in the rear of the fender. The rearward screw and tab can be retained, just pushed backwards as you "massage" the lip of the fender. I like to keep as many factory fasteners as possible because they are there for a reason and it keeps the car looking as OEM as possible. Remove the foam fender support from inside the fender(it just pulls right out easily) and you are clear to start carefully folding the "lip" of the fender with your hammer/roller etc. Work your way around the metal fender carefully a number of times, dont try to do it all in one pass. I managed not to crack the paint at all!!! which was the intended outcome. Yay for still new/flexible paint. I folded the lip up about 70 degrees, just enough so I could slide the plastic fender liner into the newly created V shaped notch. While pounding the metal to fold the lip it also pulls the fender ever so slightly outward. I think I acheived the perfect amount of "roll" and "pull" by doing this. While the fender liners are out use a sharp knife or shears to trim only the outer most portion of liner that sticks out horizontally from the rest of the liner. Its about 1/4" wide and once removed allows you to set the liner into the new folded V notch of the fender you made earlier. There is some other creative trimming you will have to do to get the liner to sit in its new home but its easy to figure out once you test fit a few times. A few of the factory mounting holes for the liner will have to be redrilled 1/4"-1/2" to the side, this is also easy to figure out with a few test fittings. Its pretty simple to get it all to line up and bolt back into place. All in all this only took me about 3 hours including setup and cleanup. The tire stuffs just about perfectly and I can drive confidently. Everything looks very aggressive yet factory. I'm pretty much in love with the new stance and shouldnt have any trouble making the LongBallRally to Eurohangar on June 29!

      Yikes!


      My work space














      Stock


      Modded


      Would these wheels fit with Euro springs? Assuming they are a slight drop of .5" from stock? And that is conservative... Same 235/35/19 tires.

      Thanks

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      08-31-2012 11:50 PM #126
      Quote Originally Posted by nchiarel View Post
      Would these wheels fit with Euro springs? Assuming they are a slight drop of .5" from stock? And that is conservative... Same 235/35/19 tires.

      Thanks
      Yeah they should fit just fine with euro springs.

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      09-03-2012 11:40 PM #127
      I have been terrible at updating this thread and I apologize. Work and non-car life has been hectic the last month or two. I did go in for my 10k service which will involve some clutch parts being replaced as soon as they come in stock. I have the clicking pedal assembly issue. Also I got my oil analysis done, I will post that up when I get the follow up info from Blackstone Labs. I did a little more fender "massaging" in the rear where I was still rubbing. I am happy to announce I have all but eliminated my rubbing issues.

      I got refunded for being sent the wrong caliper so I will go buy the correct one sometime this week which means I should fiiiiinally have my BBK done this week as well as the write-up so people can follow suit. Not totally necessary for the BBK but I need to order my stud conversion to finish it all off. Look for pics in a few days.

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      09-04-2012 12:40 AM #128
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      I did go in for my 10k service which will involve some clutch parts being replaced as soon as they come in stock. I have the clicking pedal assembly issue. Also I got my oil analysis done, I will post that up when I get the follow up info from Blackstone Labs. I did a little more fender "massaging" in the rear where I was still rubbing. I am happy to announce I have all but eliminated my rubbing issues.
      Pedal clicking? I must have missed it. Are you talking about that sensation in the pedal and the noise you can kinda hear(more from the outside underneath the flooboard)? I have that, but no drivability issues as far as I can tell.

      I also need to look at those pics for the fenders(can't see them on this computer)..
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      09-04-2012 10:26 AM #129
      Quote Originally Posted by JLCVDUB View Post
      Pedal clicking? I must have missed it. Are you talking about that sensation in the pedal and the noise you can kinda hear(more from the outside underneath the flooboard)? I have that, but no drivability issues as far as I can tell.

      I also need to look at those pics for the fenders(can't see them on this computer)..
      There is a vid someone posted in the transmission/clutch troubles thread. It is the exact problem I am having. There are some parts that don't fit together perfectly and you can feel and hear the issue. Some people have gotten their entire pedal assembly replaced, some just a few parts because of it but the noise/feeling went away so there is a real issue. I also spoke with the tech who works on my car. He drove a new R they had on the lot and a manual GTI, they both did the same thing but it was much more noticeable on my car. I'm not sure what parts my service guy has ordered but it has been two weeks and I still haven't heard from him to schedule a time to get in there.

      Heres the video post.
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post77889850

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      09-04-2012 01:24 PM #130
      Hmmm, I don't have that. What I'm experiencing is a lot different.


      Also, explain your rear fender technique, please. I'm very curious as to how you got more clearance seeing as how there isn't much back there
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      09-04-2012 01:47 PM #131
      Quote Originally Posted by JLCVDUB View Post
      Also, explain your rear fender technique, please. I'm very curious as to how you got more clearance seeing as how there isn't much back there
      Umm, it involved a 4 1/2" grinder and reckless abandon. I'm only kind of kidding. So there is a metal tab where the plastic bumper cover mounts to the metal body. Part of the metal tab got folded over by my tire rubbing it. Since metal is stronger than rubber my tire was getting clearanced more than the metal tab was. Also the bolt that holds it all together has one of those square "nut" things that is gigantic and sharp and sticks out all over the place.

      First I put a cutoff wheel on the grinder and chopped off the tab and part of the square "nut." Then I put a grinding disc on and carefully went to town on the tab/nut/bolt area until it seems I had cleared the way for the tire. Obviously this is a super neandertal way of going about body work but I come from the land of Jeeps. In the end I smoothed it all out so nothing would snag and it looks pretty good.

      The problem in the rear is the rigidity of the body. The sheetmetal is either extra thick or multi layered. There is no "lip" to fold over like in the front, and you can't easily "pull" the fender outward (like in the front) because of how rigid the body is. I have seen some people at shows that tried too hard to pull their rear fenders(MKV and MKVI) and really F'd them up, made them look like total sh*t. My car looks totally stock and does not appear to have any body work done.

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      09-04-2012 04:44 PM #132
      Ordered 80mm ACS race studs and hardened steel race nuts from race-studs.com. So happy I won't ever have to deal with lugstuds again. Plus if I need to run spacers for my winter setup to clear my brembos I can do so without having to buy longer studs. wOOt




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      09-04-2012 08:51 PM #133
      Parts finally came in so I set my appointment to get my clicking clutch pedal fixed this Friday. Not sure what all they are going to replace but I will certainly follow up.

    29. Member psipassat's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 11:15 PM #134
      Hope the fix is something simple. Good luck!
      2012 Candy White Loaded Golf R UM Tune!!!!! GT Haus Meisterschaft Exhaust with 104/90mm downpipe, and 76mm rear section, Valve actuated Exhaust. EVOMS intake. HPA short shifter, HPA Stage 3+ Clutch Kit
      For Info On The Meisterschaft Exhaust email: info@gthaus.com
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...4-door-R-Build

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      09-07-2012 11:18 PM #135
      Few things happened today.

      Dropped the R off to get the "clicking" clutch noise taken care of. They wound up replacing some parts in the clutch pedal assembly AND the entire master cylinder! I was kind of surprised to hear this but the pedal travel is waaay smoother than it was. I am very happy with it.

      Shaved down my hub rings so my wheels fit smoothly with the new benz rotors.



      Lug stud conversion parts showed up. I will install these tomorrow. Hopefully I will fiiiiiiiinaly install the Brembos soon.


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      09-07-2012 11:22 PM #136
      Quote Originally Posted by JLCVDUB View Post
      Hmmm, I don't have that. What I'm experiencing is a lot different.


      Also, explain your rear fender technique, please. I'm very curious as to how you got more clearance seeing as how there isn't much back there
      Quote Originally Posted by Atl-Atl View Post
      Umm, it involved a 4 1/2" grinder and reckless abandon. I'm only kind of kidding. So there is a metal tab where the plastic bumper cover mounts to the metal body. Part of the metal tab got folded over by my tire rubbing it. Since metal is stronger than rubber my tire was getting clearanced more than the metal tab was. Also the bolt that holds it all together has one of those square "nut" things that is gigantic and sharp and sticks out all over the place.

      First I put a cutoff wheel on the grinder and chopped off the tab and part of the square "nut." Then I put a grinding disc on and carefully went to town on the tab/nut/bolt area until it seems I had cleared the way for the tire. Obviously this is a super neandertal way of going about body work but I come from the land of Jeeps. In the end I smoothed it all out so nothing would snag and it looks pretty good.

      The problem in the rear is the rigidity of the body. The sheetmetal is either extra thick or multi layered. There is no "lip" to fold over like in the front, and you can't easily "pull" the fender outward (like in the front) because of how rigid the body is. I have seen some people at shows that tried too hard to pull their rear fenders(MKV and MKVI) and really F'd them up, made them look like total sh*t. My car looks totally stock and does not appear to have any body work done.
      When I have the wheels off to install the stud conversion I will try to snap some pics of where/what I did for rear clearance. I also need to measure my wheel well height again. I am pretty sure my H&R springs settled a decent amount, my car is low.

    32. Member
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      09-08-2012 12:19 AM #137
      And to think I was at Zimbrick today looking at my new R! I forgot to check out your car!
      Oh well. Soon!
      2010 Mk6 GTI DSG SB; APR K04, Carbonio 1 & 2, UR catted/resonated DP, Eurojet FMIC, Billy Boat cat back Uni DSG flash 313 WHP!. Traded for;
      2013 .:R! Traded for:
      2014 Mazda6 GTs

    33. Member
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      09-08-2012 09:45 AM #138


      S/He on this site?

    34. Member speeedfrk's Avatar
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      09-08-2012 03:14 PM #139
      i believe thats gyntry's car ^^^^^

    35. Member
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      09-08-2012 06:00 PM #140
      Quote Originally Posted by davesxx01 View Post
      And to think I was at Zimbrick today looking at my new R! I forgot to check out your car!
      Oh well. Soon!
      Casey mentioned you were in there when I picked the car up.

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