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    Thread: Well, technically she runs.

    1. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      08-25-2012 02:52 AM #36
      Hello again vwvortexers. It's been a while...

      Checked out the head I'm using with a straight edge and feeler gauge... book says maximum warpage should not exceed .3mm ... warpage slightly exceeds .3mm.

      I suppose it's time to talk to a machinist about getting it milled and surfaced.

      The engine block itself is perfect. Presumably the newer head is in better shape a but once I got the car running earlier this summer, I sold the intake manifold that fits on that one. Plus there are other modifications that would need to be done; It might not fit right in the engine bay, I would need a new cold air intake, I'd have to figure out the wiring and all that... the reason I'm using the old head in the first place. Right now, machining it seems like the way to go.

      Would I also have to replace and re-bore and re-seat all the valves and a bunch of other pain in the arse sorta-expensive stuff in which case... IT NEVER ENDS!! JUST LET ME DRIVE THE DAMN THING!!!

      pics a-comin'
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

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      08-25-2012 10:38 AM #37
      I just read through the complete thread finally and wish you luck with her. This ABA/JH hybrid swap is something I'd like to do (eventually, once I recover from my layoff, etc. lol) and the write-up I've studied most is from a few years ago: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...+ABA+Cabriolet. I assume you've likely encountered it while researching...? If not, perhaps it will help with some things, even if not identical to your current set-up (head gasket, etc.).

      I can relate all too well with working on a tight budget but once you get your coolant/oil mixture issues resolved, why not replace that throttle cable and grommet? I put up with a jury-rigged pedal for a couple of years and it always seemed to fail at the worst possible times... Got mine from GAP: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...et/Engine/42/1. Excellent supplier/service and I've always been surprised by how fast they get their orders shipped out. If you order something small (just the grommet, for instance), call them and see if they'll mail it instead of using UPS to save yourself a wee bit for shipping...

      While on the subject of parts suppliers and buying online, I've saved a LOT buying online but I am also a wary shopper. When it comes to eBay, I am usually only buying non-mechanical, used/NOS (new-old-stock) items. Ever since eBay changed their seller rating system, I've been even less trusting since it can be an even greater challenge to research those buyers that repeatedly bend others over. Amongst the few I have dealt with repeatedly with excellent results, though:

      Ben/moogie: http://stores.ebay.com/mk1autohaus (all sorts of NOS parts that are frequently hard to find)
      strategic-one: http://stores.ebay.com/vwcabbyshack (frequently has many good used parts/trim/etc.)

      For new parts, Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/... a non-support supplier so be sure of what you are obtaining first. Excellent service, even on returns, though.) and AutohausAZ (http://www.autohausaz.com/) have been my major sources in addition to GAP. Brian has good points regarding his thoughts on warranty returns to local suppliers which do come into play when I decide whether to buy locally or online, but when I do order online, I find that I usually save quite a bit over buying locally, even after shipping costs.

      I'll reiterate the comments regarding hose clamps, as well. I've been slowly but surely getting rid of every single screw-clamp I've found in my engine bay, no matter how hard they are to access. The spring-clamps only make sense, considering they will adjust automatically as a hose ages and with normal seasonal expansion/contraction. Get the proper pliers for them and save yourself the potential headaches of having to retighten screw-clamps and/or replacing cracked flanges. I used to hate 'em, too, until this finally dawned on me a number of years ago. I'm amongst those that would rather do it right the first time instead of returning ten times for continual correction...

      Just my two-cents, even if not a direct solution to some of the issues you're experiencing now (feel free to circular file anything that is rhetorical... lol). Hope it helps in some fashion and good luck with her {fingers crossed}.
      Last edited by native-texan_in_tn; 08-25-2012 at 10:41 AM.
      My flying/aerial/scenic/transportation-related photography: http://www.flickr.com/photos/vfr_photography/
      Cabriolet photography from years past: http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...usa/?start=all

    3. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      09-02-2012 06:12 PM #38
      Just a few cosmetic updates for now... that emblem's looking a little tarnished



      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

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      09-04-2012 02:05 PM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by inlovewithavdubengine View Post
      Good to know. I guess it will work either way. The flow problem was probably from using old head bolts and the pressure leaking out the cylinders. Update soon.
      very nice, glad it's working again

    5. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      10-16-2012 08:57 PM #40
      Boy, am I ready to get this thing back on the road.

      Had the head re-surfaced. Nice and clean.


      I rebuilt the water pump.



      These fuel injector bushings had to go. Two of them twisted out, but the other two were melted in place and I had to chip them out. That's done, but now I'm having trouble finding the replacement parts. The O'Reilley's employees didn't know what I was talking about, and I couldn't find them on GermanAutoPArts. I don't even know exactly what they're called. Fuel injector seal threaded insert bushings? Anyone have a link?



      Thanks for all the support! This beast will be running soon!!
      Last edited by inlovewithavdubengine; 10-16-2012 at 09:02 PM.
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    6. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      03-25-2013 05:03 PM #41
      Hey everyone...

      My (never-ending) cabriolet project has been on hold for the past few months, been driving the Honda to work and school but now that the weather is nice again I've been itching to get the old VW back together.

      Right now I have a box of new parts and other than putting it all back together, there are only one or two things left to do...

      First of all, I still need some of these fuel injector seals:
      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...olet/Fuel/93/2

      buuut... will I need extra O-rings? It says on the description that it comes includes an O-ring, but on the O-ring description:
      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...olet/Fuel/94/2
      it says I need two per injector. So.. one below the holder and one above? Anyone know for sure exactly what's needed here? I don't want to install it wrong but I also don't want to order more parts than I need.

      Number two... re-seating the valves after the head was machined? Any thoughts on that? I've gotten the impression that it's absolutely necessary, and a machine shop is the best place to do it, but will I need to order more parts for that?

      Also... do you think I'll need new piston rings after what happened with water leaking into the cylinders? I really hope the answer is "no" because I certainly don't want to start everything over from scratch. Then again if the rings are no good I'll REALLY have to start over from scratch. Is there a good way to test the compression before I put the head back on?
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    7. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      03-25-2013 09:16 PM #42
      napaonline all 8 o-rings for 7.29 dollars.
      Fuel Injector Seal Kit
      Part Number: CRB 212087

      You usually don't need the injector inserts Unless you are having issues seating the injectors

      for the compression you have to have the head installed, then take dry / wet readings. Dry means no oil in the cylinder wet means a couple of squirts of oil on top of the piston...
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    8. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      03-01-2014 07:25 AM #43
      Update; March 2014
      Hello again everyone!

      Well, my Cabriolet has more or less been collecting dust in the garage at my mom's for the past year or so....


      So I'm back in town and I'm set on getting it running again ASAP. All of the parts are here, including...

      ...A totally refurbished valve head. This is the original 2H head, it's been milled/re-surfaced underneath, the spark plug ports have been re-threaded, the fuel injector seals have been replaced, and the valves have been re-seated. Nothing stopping me now!!


      .....aaaaaaand the first bump in the road: apparently I ordered the wrong Valve Cover Gasket, or they sent me the wrong one, or something.

      Anyway, I ended up with the one-piece rubber gasket with the metal rings that don't sit right on the shouldered studs, and I don't have a set of shoulderless studs sitting around, either. Should I really replace them? It seems like a prime oppurtunity to once again strip the heck out of some aluminum threads by messing with perfectly fine steel studs that have been at home there for 23 years. Might be cheaper and safer just to order a new cork one for $5 + Shipping. Sigh. Could I just take those little metal brads out of the gasket or something?
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    9. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      03-01-2014 07:55 AM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by inlovewithavdubengine View Post
      Just a few cosmetic updates for now... that emblem's looking a little tarnished



      Just had to spray your balls Gold did you....

      I suppose copying is the sincerest form of flattery..... Besides Gold balls attract the strangest folks at a meet and greet.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    10. Member kamzcab86's Avatar
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      03-01-2014 12:07 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by inlovewithavdubengine View Post
      Update; March 2014

      Anyway, I ended up with the one-piece rubber gasket with the metal rings that don't sit right on the shouldered studs, and I don't have a set of shoulderless studs sitting around, either. Should I really replace them? It seems like a prime oppurtunity to once again strip the heck out of some aluminum threads by messing with perfectly fine steel studs that have been at home there for 23 years. Might be cheaper and safer just to order a new cork one for $5 + Shipping. Sigh. Could I just take those little metal brads out of the gasket or something?
      Either get the shoulderless studs, use penetrating oil (like PB Blaster), and replace the existing studs... or get the 3-piece cork gasket set. You cannot use the original studs with a rubber gasket, and trying to remove the metal washers out of the gasket could deform the rubber... both of which can lead to leaks.
      Cabby-Info.com -- Your online guide to the VW Cabriolets
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    11. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      03-01-2014 02:36 PM #46
      To remove the studs place a washer over the stud so that it is flat against the head.
      Take a small pair of Vice-Grips and clamp them as tight as you can on top of the washer.
      Smack the hammer with a hammer to loosen. The washer prevent scratching the head face.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    12. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      03-26-2014 08:25 PM #47
      After like 2 weeks of waiting, the last few parts came in!
      I have free time to get to wrenchin', too!
      Torqued down the head! Yes! Everything is coming together beautifully. No problems. It all lines up. Wires fit. Harnesses fit. Hoses fit. Gaskets sealed. Bolts torqued. No stripped threads. If I can get a friend to come by and help with the timing, the VW will finally be running sometime this week. Now; to plug in the last wire.






      Huh. The exhaust sensor wire, I suppose? Where is that thing anyway?

      [feels around back of engine]

       photo ohgoddamnit_zpsc5dd05df.jpg
      Oh, there it is. Inside of cylinder #3.






      Uh.....








      Apparently while lining up the heavy-arsed, slippery-arsed head assembly with the engine block, that wire found its way inside the engine. Annnnnnnnnnd then I torqued it down.





      Pulled the head back off, 20 minutes after fully torquing it down. Guess that's another $30 gasket and ten x $10 bolts I won't be needing anymore. Gasket's destroyed. Sensor wire insulators are smashed up pretty good but the wires appear to be intact and luckily (?) the plug seems to be intact. :frown:



      Dear reader, I do hope at the very least that you are enjoying the entertainment value of the downright Sisyphean task of reviving my beloved '91 Cabriolet. I know I'm trying to.



      In spite of everything, I still have a good time working on this damn thing and every hurdle feels like I'm gaining "experience points." Why else would I continue? A saner man would have rolled this old bitch basket out to the street and set it on fire by this point.


      Anyone else ever have this much disappointment/trouble/bad luck refurbishing an engine, or is this my punishment for having slighted the Volkswagen gods?


      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    13. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      03-27-2014 06:33 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by inlovewithavdubengine View Post
      After like 2 weeks of waiting, the last few parts came in!
      I have free time to get to wrenchin', too!
      Torqued down the head! Yes! Everything is coming together beautifully. No problems. It all lines up. Wires fit. Harnesses fit. Hoses fit. Gaskets sealed. Bolts torqued. No stripped threads. If I can get a friend to come by and help with the timing, the VW will finally be running sometime this week. Now; to plug in the last wire.






      Huh. The exhaust sensor wire, I suppose? Where is that thing anyway?

      [feels around back of engine]

       photo ohgoddamnit_zpsc5dd05df.jpg
      Oh, there it is. Inside of cylinder #3.






      Uh.....








      Apparently while lining up the heavy-arsed, slippery-arsed head assembly with the engine block, that wire found its way inside the engine. Annnnnnnnnnd then I torqued it down.





      Pulled the head back off, 20 minutes after fully torquing it down. Guess that's another $30 gasket and ten x $10 bolts I won't be needing anymore. Gasket's destroyed. Sensor wire insulators are smashed up pretty good but the wires appear to be intact and luckily (?) the plug seems to be intact. :frown:



      Dear reader, I do hope at the very least that you are enjoying the entertainment value of the downright Sisyphean task of reviving my beloved '91 Cabriolet. I know I'm trying to.



      In spite of everything, I still have a good time working on this damn thing and every hurdle feels like I'm gaining "experience points." Why else would I continue? A saner man would have rolled this old bitch basket out to the street and set it on fire by this point.


      Anyone else ever have this much disappointment/trouble/bad luck refurbishing an engine, or is this my punishment for having slighted the Volkswagen gods?


      We have all had those "I can't believe that I was so frigging stupid." times.
      Some more than others.

      The ARP stud kit avail at SummitRacing or other places, are great for times like this as they are re-usable.
      Pricey at the start but after the second or 3rd time you take the head off, they pay for themselves.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    14. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      03-27-2014 08:40 PM #49


      Yep, thanks for the inspiration

      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      We have all had those "I can't believe that I was so frigging stupid." times.
      Some more than others.

      The ARP stud kit avail at SummitRacing or other places, are great for times like this as they are re-usable.
      Pricey at the start but after the second or 3rd time you take the head off, they pay for themselves.
      I wish I'd bought those bolts in the first place. I have like 4 or 5 sets of the cheaper headbolts sitting around that are apparently unusable. Still, $150 is outside of my bolt budget right now, and hopefully this is that last time I have to put it back together for a long time. Unless the head doesn't work, or the cylinders or the rings or the _____ is shot and I have to start from scratch again. I swear, for the kind of money I constantly sink into this car, I'd rather invest in an electric motor. To hell with this internal combustion bullcrap.

      Anyway, new gasket + headbolts on their way. Updates when they get here.

      I'm pretty sure this is the gasket I used before for this weird engine of mine. An early 90's 16v 2L Jetta Gasket. Hope it's the right one.

      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks.../Engine/104/10
      Last edited by inlovewithavdubengine; 03-27-2014 at 08:53 PM.
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    15. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      04-07-2014 10:24 PM #50
      Well, I managed to pull apart the exhaust sensor wire while I was stripping off the smashed-up insulators and trying to assess whether the internal wire was too damaged to use. If it wasn't before, it is now.



      Oh well, just get a new one?

      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks.../Exhaust/152/4

      $131 + shipping? Yikes. What's in there, platinum?
      Is soldering it back together an acceptable option?
      Might try a scrap yard.
      Last edited by inlovewithavdubengine; 04-07-2014 at 10:40 PM.
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    16. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      04-07-2014 10:56 PM #51
      I also did this without labeling which wires go to which ports, any info in that would be extremely helpful.
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    17. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      04-07-2014 11:06 PM #52
      I know I know I know......

      White to white black to black.



      The black goes to the violet wire t4a pin 1
      The whites go to t4a pin2 and t4a pin1
      That is on the connector that is on the valve cover.

      You have 4 wires.
      Ground nothing
      blue to white wire either one on o2
      Red/white to white wire either one o2
      Violet to the black sense wire on the o2.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    18. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      04-08-2014 01:28 AM #53
      You sure? California has its own unique O2 sensor. 3 wires.
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    19. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      04-08-2014 03:45 AM #54
      The generic replacements that are 40 dollars are all 3 wires 2 white and 1 black..been using them for years..
      The ground is wrapped around

      The 2 white wires are for the heater circuit, the black is the signal wire.

      The black goes to the violet wire t4a pin 1
      The whites go to t4a pin2 and t4a pin1
      That is on the connector that is on the o2 sensor side of the valve cover.

      You have 4 wires. ground is only on the ecu side of the connector.
      Ground nothing
      blue to white wire either one on o2
      Red/white to white wire either one o2
      Violet to the black sense wire on the o2.
      Last edited by briano1234; 04-08-2014 at 03:49 AM.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    20. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      04-08-2014 01:14 PM #55
      It's 3 prongs, no ground, looks exactly like this:



      So from the picture it looks like the 2 whites go together, then a gap, and the black is in the single prong... it doesn't matter if you accidentally switch the 2 whites does it?
      I'm going to try to get my hands on a soldering gun today.
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    21. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      04-08-2014 04:08 PM #56
      Nope the whites are for the heater, it doesn't matter which way you put them on.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    22. Member flipty's Avatar
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      04-08-2014 05:01 PM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      To remove the studs place a washer over the stud so that it is flat against the head.
      Take a small pair of Vice-Grips and clamp them as tight as you can on top of the washer.
      Smack the hammer with a hammer to loosen. The washer prevent scratching the head face.
      I'm no expert, but I did have to do this recently and I tried this method. I had luck with one or two studs but ended up using brute force to get most of em.

      I also did exactly the same thing: Using the shouldered studs with a rubber gasket, which produced an IMMEDIATE and large oil leak.

    23. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      04-08-2014 05:16 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by flipty View Post
      I'm no expert, but I did have to do this recently and I tried this method. I had luck with one or two studs but ended up using brute force to get most of em.

      I also did exactly the same thing: Using the shouldered studs with a rubber gasket, which produced an IMMEDIATE and large oil leak.
      Yep we have seen that before,,,

      Rubber no shoulder.
      Cork shoulder.

      87 in/lbs on the nuts, no more no less
      Or you will have a great big mess.

      Poetry in action.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    24. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      05-07-2014 05:00 PM #59
      Well, I fixed the o2 sensor wire. (I hope)

      Wrapped the exhaust manifold in some titanium wrap stuff that's supposed to reduce the heat coming off there, especially since it's so close to the intake manifold on this engine.

      Got all the parts and torqued down he head.

      Next is the timing, is there a good thread on that that I should be looking at?

      My current question is this: How important are the brackets that attach the intake manifold to the valve cover? And the little metal bracket in that binds the intake and exhaust manifolds to each other? With the way my engine is set up, the 2E valve cover matches the 2E engine block (because of the PCV,) but the 2H intake manifold doesn't quite play nice with the new valve cover, and the proper brackets probably don't even exist. I had them ghetto-rigged before in a puzzle of bolts and spacers and the brackets from the 2E. What I was wondering is; are they even necessary? Would just one be sufficient? The little metal piece in the far back between the intake and exhaust manifolds, fried and broke off long ago... should I be looking for a replacement?

      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    25. Member tolusina's Avatar
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      05-09-2014 11:06 PM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by inlovewithavdubengine View Post
      ......Next is the timing, is there a good thread on that that I should be looking at?.......
      http://reflectionsandshadows.com/cabby/static-digi.html








      .
      vwvortex search is weak. Instead, type search terms site:http://forums.vwvortex.com into the google search box.
      Quote Originally Posted by kamzcab86
      I hate reading: "But I bought this car for $500 and don't want to put another dime into it."
      ____(hey, it's VW AND it's electrical, what's not to fail?) neoBentley+

    26. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      05-29-2014 05:38 PM #61
      Well... I cleaned out the oil pan and found some of the white sludge stuff, from back when the head gasket was leaking, and also found one tiny flake of metal in it as well, which was very discouraging since I have no idea how that could have gotten in there... it could have just found its way in there by something unrelated to the engine running, like a burr left over from when the head was machined. I ran a magnet over it and decided it was non-ferrous. Are the rings made of aluminum? If need be will it be possible to replace the rings from below without pulling the head again? Anyway I'm just going to ignore that inconvenient little flake of metal for now.

      After that, I hooked everything up, torqued everything down and timed it up as best as I could, added oil and water, turned the key... and to my surprise it did not immediately explode into a mushroom cloud. It turned over and started idling! Victory!!

      However, it's still not out of the woods yet. It idles a little bit fast, and when I open the throttle, it will run a little faster for a few seconds, then shudders to a halt. Anyone know what this could mean? Is the distributor off by a tooth or could it be related to a bad ground or a vacuum leak or what?

      Also, the timing belt seems pretty good but I'm concerned that it might not be tight enough. I did as best as I could without any special tools. Pic, updates soon.
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    27. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      07-09-2014 09:34 PM #62
      Figured out that it wasn't running so well because the fuel was 6 years old and expired.... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...drain+gas+tank

      So, I pumped that out. New gas made a world of difference.... pretty much purred like a kitten at idle speed. Then this happened:

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post85894881

      Yeah, the massive amount of acrid smoke and steam that was coming off my engine after I took it around the block and parked in the driveway freaked me out enough to make me spray it down with the garden hose like a madman. BEFORE disconnecting the battery.

      The smoke was probably a normal product of the few years worth of grease and dirt getting burned off by the engine heating up for the first time, but in the moment it really seemed like it was about to catch fire, the engine was very hot and the smoke was getting worse and worse. After all, I might have missed something while building the engine and had fuel leaking everywhere for all I knew. Or the cooling system wasn't working properly. Or just TOO much grease on the block. Didn't want to watch the whole thing go up in flames. So, the car didn't catch fire, but now it won't start. Might have shorted something, who knows? Probably would have been best to have a real fire extinguisher on hand.

      I've dried everything off as much as I could, including the plugs and the inside of the distributor. When I turn the key, the starter makes a half-fart, like it's really trying to turn over for about one second and then gives up. I checked the timing marks and cranked it by hand, that all seems to be fine, except that the timing belt is a little less tight than it probably should be. I jumped it with my other car and it's a little better but still chugs. I'm thinking it might be the starter. How should I go about testing it? Remove the unit?

      Also, once that's taken care of, I really need to deal with the throttle situation. It's one of those intake manifolds with an oval shaped mouth and two valve flaps, no cruise control. They're supposed to open both at the same time, but right now it's ghetto-rigged to just pull on the main flap, and only opens the smaller flap when the main one is fully open. I have a bunch of pieces that I KNOW are part of the throttle assembly, but since I originally took it apart 4 years ago and didn't take pictures I can't figure out how to put it back together. Anyone know where I can find a diagram, or at least a close-up photo? I haven't had much luck. Thanks for all of your support, vwvortexxers!! This thing WILL be back on the road this summer!
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    28. Member flying_oliver's Avatar
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      07-10-2014 12:27 AM #63
      My brother just cleaned his throttle body. I can get the pictures tomorrow and upload them then here in the morning.

    29. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      07-11-2014 03:58 AM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by flying_oliver View Post
      My brother just cleaned his throttle body. I can get the pictures tomorrow and upload them then here in the morning.
      Much appreciated!!
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    30. Member flying_oliver's Avatar
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      07-11-2014 03:31 PM #65





      I hope these help. If you need more I can take some.

    31. Member inlovewithavdubengine's Avatar
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      08-27-2014 11:15 PM #66
      Kinda rigged up the throttle so it works for now.

      I don't know, guys. I keep getting it timed up so it runs great for a few minutes, then it takes a crap and won't start again. I've checked all of the seals and nothing seems to be leaking, not losing coolant, no oil or water in the cylinders or anything like that. The timing belt seems to just keep loosening up and going out of spec. It might be that the tensioner pulley is not doing its job correctly, or maybe I'm just not tightening it up enough or something. I don't have the special tool, I've been doing it by tightening it as best as I can with a couple of wrenches and a pry bar. Any thoughts?

      The electrical problems seem to have resolved themselves, except at some point the main coil box developed a couple of bubbles of melted plastic. Not grounded right or something?
      "The ultimate testís always your own serenity. If the machine produces tranquility itís right. If it disturbs you itís wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence

    32. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-28-2014 08:07 AM #67
      Set the time with aligning the marks and the belt.
      To tension the belt, I took a small steel long handled Allen, you can buy the specialty tool a spad wrench, but tighten it in a clockwise direction by moving the center up and over.
      I have the 15mm nut on the tensioner almost tight were it can hold it's own. Tighten it until with 2 fingers between the Intermediate Shaft and the Cam pulley twist the belt to no more than 1/2 twist.

      Now for the usual not running after a fashion, have you replaced the blue CTS sensor?
      Have you tested the Fuel Pressure according to the Bentley, as that can eliminate a flaky Fuel Pressure Regulator...
      They go flaky and will cause hard to start warn, or cold, the same can be said of the o2 sensor, but you can un plug that and see if it make a difference.

      Grounds Grounds, Grounds. REPLACE THEM. Engine to frame and frame to Battery.

      Is this a Automatic, or manual?
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    33. Member tolusina's Avatar
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      08-28-2014 08:40 AM #68
      Quote Originally Posted by inlovewithavdubengine View Post
      ..... The timing belt seems to just keep loosening up and going out of spec......

      ........except at some point the main coil box developed a couple of bubbles of melted plastic. .....
      Is the t-belt loosening or is the belt timing wandering?
      If belt tension is not an issue but timing is, see this thread.....
      "Brian's Song", also known as "fargin' won't start"
      If indeed the crank gear is wandering, here's a possible fix, possible depending on the extent of damage.
      ---
      Coil? Garlic Country? California spec DigiFant I? Digi I/Motronic coils are notoriously weak, have about ten different possible failure modes not counting combinations. Always carry a spare.

      Here's a died coil, NB 101, I think it was the Betabel and Y off ramp........


      Might be something in the fragrant air thereabouts...................

    34. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-28-2014 10:34 AM #69
      Quote Originally Posted by tolusina View Post
      "Brian's Song", also known as "fargin' won't start"
      If indeed the crank gear is wandering, here's a possible fix, possible depending on the extent of damage.
      Thanks for bringing that up... Be-warned, it wasn't a pretty fix..... New Crank needed because the Previous Owners BASTURD VW Mechanic screwed the pooch.

      I would of loved a sheared gear instead....
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

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