Well, technically she runs.

[inlovewithavdubengine]

Hello again vwvortexers. It's been a while...

Checked out the head I'm using with a straight edge and feeler gauge... book says maximum warpage should not exceed .3mm ... warpage slightly exceeds .3mm.

I suppose it's time to talk to a machinist about getting it milled and surfaced.

The engine block itself is perfect. Presumably the newer head is in better shape a but once I got the car running earlier this summer, I sold the intake manifold that fits on that one. Plus there are other modifications that would need to be done; It might not fit right in the engine bay, I would need a new cold air intake, I'd have to figure out the wiring and all that... the reason I'm using the old head in the first place. Right now, machining it seems like the way to go.

Would I also have to replace and re-bore and re-seat all the valves and a bunch of other pain in the arse sorta-expensive stuff in which case... IT NEVER ENDS!! JUST LET ME DRIVE THE DAMN THING!!!

pics a-comin'

[native-texan_in_tn]

I just read through the complete thread finally and wish you luck with her. This ABA/JH hybrid swap is something I'd like to do (eventually, once I recover from my layoff, etc. lol) and the write-up I've studied most is from a few years ago: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...+ABA+Cabriolet. I assume you've likely encountered it while researching...? If not, perhaps it will help with some things, even if not identical to your current set-up (head gasket, etc.).

I can relate all too well with working on a tight budget but once you get your coolant/oil mixture issues resolved, why not replace that throttle cable and grommet? I put up with a jury-rigged pedal for a couple of years and it always seemed to fail at the worst possible times... Got mine from GAP: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...et/Engine/42/1. Excellent supplier/service and I've always been surprised by how fast they get their orders shipped out. If you order something small (just the grommet, for instance), call them and see if they'll mail it instead of using UPS to save yourself a wee bit for shipping...

While on the subject of parts suppliers and buying online, I've saved a LOT buying online but I am also a wary shopper. When it comes to eBay, I am usually only buying non-mechanical, used/NOS (new-old-stock) items. Ever since eBay changed their seller rating system, I've been even less trusting since it can be an even greater challenge to research those buyers that repeatedly bend others over. Amongst the few I have dealt with repeatedly with excellent results, though:

Ben/moogie: http://stores.ebay.com/mk1autohaus (all sorts of NOS parts that are frequently hard to find)
strategic-one: http://stores.ebay.com/vwcabbyshack (frequently has many good used parts/trim/etc.)

For new parts, Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/... a non-support supplier so be sure of what you are obtaining first. Excellent service, even on returns, though.) and AutohausAZ (http://www.autohausaz.com/) have been my major sources in addition to GAP. Brian has good points regarding his thoughts on warranty returns to local suppliers which do come into play when I decide whether to buy locally or online, but when I do order online, I find that I usually save quite a bit over buying locally, even after shipping costs.

I'll reiterate the comments regarding hose clamps, as well. I've been slowly but surely getting rid of every single screw-clamp I've found in my engine bay, no matter how hard they are to access. The spring-clamps only make sense, considering they will adjust automatically as a hose ages and with normal seasonal expansion/contraction. Get the proper pliers for them and save yourself the potential headaches of having to retighten screw-clamps and/or replacing cracked flanges. I used to hate 'em, too, until this finally dawned on me a number of years ago. I'm amongst those that would rather do it right the first time instead of returning ten times for continual correction...

Just my two-cents, even if not a direct solution to some of the issues you're experiencing now (feel free to circular file anything that is rhetorical... lol). Hope it helps in some fashion and good luck with her {fingers crossed}.

[inlovewithavdubengine]

Just a few cosmetic updates for now... that emblem's looking a little tarnished

[stronglikebull]

Good to know. I guess it will work either way. The flow problem was probably from using old head bolts and the pressure leaking out the cylinders. Update soon.

very nice, glad it's working again

[inlovewithavdubengine]

Boy, am I ready to get this thing back on the road.

Had the head re-surfaced. Nice and clean.


I rebuilt the water pump.



These fuel injector bushings had to go. Two of them twisted out, but the other two were melted in place and I had to chip them out. That's done, but now I'm having trouble finding the replacement parts. The O'Reilley's employees didn't know what I was talking about, and I couldn't find them on GermanAutoPArts. I don't even know exactly what they're called. Fuel injector seal threaded insert bushings? Anyone have a link?



Thanks for all the support! This beast will be running soon!!

[inlovewithavdubengine]

Hey everyone...

My (never-ending) cabriolet project has been on hold for the past few months, been driving the Honda to work and school but now that the weather is nice again I've been itching to get the old VW back together.

Right now I have a box of new parts and other than putting it all back together, there are only one or two things left to do...

First of all, I still need some of these fuel injector seals:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...olet/Fuel/93/2

buuut... will I need extra O-rings? It says on the description that it comes includes an O-ring, but on the O-ring description:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...olet/Fuel/94/2
it says I need two per injector. So.. one below the holder and one above? Anyone know for sure exactly what's needed here? I don't want to install it wrong but I also don't want to order more parts than I need.

Number two... re-seating the valves after the head was machined? Any thoughts on that? I've gotten the impression that it's absolutely necessary, and a machine shop is the best place to do it, but will I need to order more parts for that?

Also... do you think I'll need new piston rings after what happened with water leaking into the cylinders? I really hope the answer is "no" because I certainly don't want to start everything over from scratch. Then again if the rings are no good I'll REALLY have to start over from scratch. Is there a good way to test the compression before I put the head back on?

[briano1234]

napaonline all 8 o-rings for 7.29 dollars.
Fuel Injector Seal Kit
Part Number: CRB 212087

You usually don't need the injector inserts Unless you are having issues seating the injectors

for the compression you have to have the head installed, then take dry / wet readings. Dry means no oil in the cylinder wet means a couple of squirts of oil on top of the piston...