Help with an ABA 16VT Build

[mk1vdubcabby]

Hey guys...im planning on doing an ABA 16VT build in my MK1 Cabriolet. I need some advice. I have the OBD1 ABA and am in the process of getting a 16V head. I just need some help with what components i would need to get the build done. Im planning on using upgraded parts and getting the engine machined. Any advice would be a great help? Oh...whats everyones take on BBM vs Techtonics pistons and other parts? Those are the two main companies ive been looking into for pistons, rods, valves, springs, cams, etc. Thanks for your time and help.

[VR6andCabbyMan]

I have an ABA 16vT in my '85 Cabby, so maybe I can help.

You are going to need a few things to make the ABA block work with the 16v. Do you need a list of the simple components to make the head work with the block? Or are you looking for more in depth info?


Not sure I can help you with the aftermarket rod/piston stuff. But if you need info for fitting the head to the black and such, let me know.

[mk1vdubcabby]

That would be awesome. I'm basically looking for a list of what i would need to make it work with no issues. I'm planning on building the motor and getting it machined but i'm trying to save time and buy the basic components to get this thing going. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Also, how do you like this setup in the cabby? I want to get this car to a point where its fun to drive so i figured more power = more fun...haha.

Oh...what trans are you running? Everyone is telling me to run an O2A because of the gearing, unfortunately they seem to be a pain to find.

[killa]

best way of doing is to just get a donor 2Liter 16v block and swap out the intermediate shaft, Intermediate shaft gear, oil pump, distributor block off plate, i'm sure i'm forgetting a couple of little things but everything is in the 2L 16v block code 9A.
I'm in Elizabeth btw, done more than a handfull of these.

[killa]

come of think of it you might as well buy my friend's car and slap everything in... ABA16vT with Wiseco pistons, Scat rods, OBD1 crank, ported head, cams, 02A trans, clutch, Peloquin diff, etc, can swap that out quick.

[VR6andCabbyMan]

Well, to get the head to work with the ABA block you need a few things, which you can either source on your own from a junk yard or buy from people and piece it all together or you can buy something like this:

http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/p...ead_Conversion

I bought that, but then realized how dumb I was because I didn't need any of the coolant lines because that kit is for a MK3. However, I didn't have to go buy the pulleys or try to find them and it came with the right sized belt and all. The best part was the Dizzy Gizzy though, and BBM kind of explains why:

Until we created the Dizzy Gizzy, the only option was to source a complete intermediate shaft, drive gears, distributor block off and oil pump from a 16V bottom end.

With the Dizzy Gizzy and the modified intermediate shaft gear in that kit you just pop out the distributor on the ABA block, and replace it with the Dizzy Gizzy (and the gear from the old ABA distributor) and replace the pulley on the intermediate shaft with the supplied one.

But you are paying $800 for the kit and if you dont mind the time, you could do it yourself piecing it together for a lot cheaper. I think if I did it again I would piece it together myself, but I know a lot more now than I did back then.


Once you get the timing belt stuff and distributor stuff figured out you pretty much have everything done with the head/block mating. Oh, and there is a pin in the ABA block on the actual head surface, that needs popped out. It was an alignment pin for the 8v head, but the 16v head doesnt have a hole for it. I think to remove it you drive it up. You'll understand when you see it (if your block has it).



I am running a stock ABA block and stock 16v head, neither have anything performance in them, and I run 17psi from a T3/T4e 60-1 trim .63AR(hotside) Garrett turbo. So far nothing has broke. It's super fun, but the boost comes on pretty late since the turbo is a bit oversized for the application (in my opinion) but I was thinking of the future power goals when I bought it. Luckily in the MK1 it's not a huge deal since the car is light, but I think if the car were heavier (like a MK4 1.8 or something) the lag would really be annoying.

As far as my transmission goes, I run an O2O. I believe it is an AUG from a MK2. It sucks because 5th is pretty low, so I run high RPMs on the highway. Other than that though it has held up nicely and I like the gearing when cruising around on regular roads.

The O2A is probably going to hold up a lot better in the long run and if I could have found one cheap when I did my car I would have gone that route. But if you go O2A you have to get the mounts made, or buy custom ones which seem to be really expensive for some reason ($300 or so). So I went with the O2O, but I do not launch my car at all, simply because I don't want to destroy the trans. This sucks because I like to hammer my cars and I have to take it easy until I get the car moving. But once it's moving its good to go.

Anyway, I hope I helped a bit. And just remember, I am just one person out of many who have done this swap, so there are tons of ways to go about this, so look around, dont just take my word for it.

Let me know if you have any other questions.


EDIT-

best way of doing is to just get a donor 2Liter 16v block and swap out the intermediate shaft, Intermediate shaft gear, oil pump, distributor block off plate, i'm sure i'm forgetting a couple of little things but everything is in the 2L 16v block code 9A.
I'm in Elizabeth btw, done more than a handfull of these.

That is the way I would do it if I had to do it again. Much cheaper.

[soch naungayan]

Save yourself some money and just use the aba pistons. I've thrown 30psi at them and had zero issues...even revving to 8000 rpms at the track. .02cents

[killa]

Save yourself some money and just use the aba pistons. I've thrown 30psi at them and had zero issues...even revving to 8000 rpms at the track. .02cents

I've done that too, with and without notching, then 9A pistons with rebushed rods

[soch naungayan]

Paul...the pistons in cali were different. Some required notching some did not. The domes on the early ones were smooth and on the later model ones were kinda...um not and required notching if you were planning to rev over 7500 rpms. Satisfied with the power they held...i stuck to them even tho I have a set of built wiseco's. Anyways...it feels good to get back in the game. But at the same token sucks we no longer have any 1/4 mile tracks in socal

[mk1vdubcabby]

Thanks for all the info everyone. I'll definitely look into whats the best way to go about this but appreciate all the input. killa...whos selling that swap you mentioned? If you can text me and let me know (908) 477-0346. I'm in Union and know quiet a few of the regulars that mess with vdubs.

[killa]

Thanks for all the info everyone. I'll definitely look into whats the best way to go about this but appreciate all the input. killa...whos selling that swap you mentioned? If you can text me and let me know (908) 477-0346. I'm in Union and know quiet a few of the regulars that mess with vdubs.

Sorry, only saw this now, i texted you. It's a car we put together, has everything you need to do the swap and come out cheaper.