need an amp for my alpines

[Reppin412]

two 12" alpine type r's 1000W RMS, 3000 peak. Thinkin 2000W mono or two channel amp, right? Wanna make sure before i order it haha

[NFrazier]

two 12" alpine type r's 1000W RMS, 3000 peak. Thinkin 2000W mono or two channel amp, right? Wanna make sure before i order it haha

what impedance are the woofers? DVC 2 ohm or DVC 4 ohm? Are they the new Type-R's?

[Reppin412]

what impedance are the woofers? DVC 2 ohm or DVC 4 ohm? Are they the new Type-R's?

•12" Dual 4-Ohm Type-R Series Car Subwoofer
•Power Handling:
◦Peak: 3000 watts
◦RMS: 300-1000 watts
•Impedance: Dual 4 ohms

[NFrazier]

•12" Dual 4-Ohm Type-R Series Car Subwoofer
•Power Handling:
◦Peak: 3000 watts
◦RMS: 300-1000 watts
•Impedance: Dual 4 ohms

So you need an amp that does 2000w RMS @ 1 or 4 ohm.
Or 2 amps that do 1000wRMS @ 2 ohm.

Don't get a cheap amp, won't produce the power you need.

Also you're going to want to look to upgrade your charging system if you're running that much power.

[Reppin412]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...RZ2100.1D.html

would this work?

[NFrazier]

The last Hifonics I did that a customer brought in, didn't produce nearly what it said it was supposed to.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-MRX-M...ht_3658wt_1139

More money, trusted power.

[Reppin412]

The last Hifonics I did that a customer brought in, didn't produce nearly what it said it was supposed to.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-MRX-M...ht_3658wt_1139

More money, trusted power.

yeah thats a nice amp for sure and if i could buy it i would, but the amp i had and returned was through sonic electronix and they dont carry that amp

[NFrazier]

yeah thats a nice amp for sure and if i could buy it i would, but the amp i had and returned was through sonic electronix and they dont carry that amp

Eh, I'd say the Rockford T1500-1bdCP. at 1 ohm it'll produce over 2k

[Reppin412]

alright cool thanks I appreciate it

[Reppin412]

Reviving a dead thread haha sorry... But with a 1700 watt rms amp do you think I should get a second battery or do you think with a big 3 upgrade ill be okay?

[NFrazier]

Reviving a dead thread haha sorry... But with a 1700 watt rms amp do you think I should get a second battery or do you think with a big 3 upgrade ill be okay?

Second batteries really don't do much for a lack of current supply. They really are designed to be a safe guard while the car is off. You'll want to upgrade the big 3 first and then look towArds a h.o alternator.

[Reppin412]

alright bringin this back again haha, bout to get everything finally installed bc amp is coming in tomorrow. Im going to run a 2100 watt amp at 2 ohms, for 1400 w rms, so im lookin at about 700 watts each which is perfect for me. Also will be upgrading to big 3 in the near future and maybe new alternator. Thanks guys

[RonPopeil]

why not stay alpine? pdx 1000.1

[NFrazier]

why not stay alpine? pdx 1000.1

He's got two type-r's if he's going to use 1 then that's fine, but if he wants to use both, the rms power of the two type-rs are 2k.

[RonPopeil]

He's got two type-r's if he's going to use 1 then that's fine, but if he wants to use both, the rms power of the two type-rs are 2k.

he's running an amp that will put 700w to his subs. if he went with a single channel PDX he could double that.

[Reppin412]

price is the main factor haha. I would have liked to keep with alpine and get an amp from them but the amp is really expensive for the power I need.
And as of now the amp i have doesnt even matter because as of now i have my bass set around 40% the let the subs break in, and anytime i have them turned up a little bit it resets the electrical system in my car so now im looking at a new h.o. alternator

[NFrazier]

price is the main factor haha. I would have liked to keep with alpine and get an amp from them but the amp is really expensive for the power I need.
And as of now the amp i have doesnt even matter because as of now i have my bass set around 40% the let the subs break in, and anytime i have them turned up a little bit it resets the electrical system in my car so now im looking at a new h.o. alternator

I can tell you that I have over 2k of RMS power running in my car and before the HO alternator I did not have that problem. Make sure your positive and negative battery terminals are tight.

[Reppin412]

I can tell you that I have over 2k of RMS power running in my car and before the HO alternator I did not have that problem. Make sure your positive and negative battery terminals are tight.

yeah the day after the install it shut down probably 3 or 4 times while i was driving, but since then i havent had the problem so im not exactly sure what it was. I have a volt/boost/af gauge so i can see when my volts are getting low

[I800C0LLECT]

You probably don't have a very good grounding point. That's the #1 cause of dimming issues and/or what you're describing.

Also, unless you're utilizing a sine wave, people aren't ever putting a constant pull on the alternator. Therefore, your speakers are probably only dissipating maybe 20 to 25 watts of heat continuously. With that said, you also gain 3 decibels of output when you double the power. You perceive the "doubling" of volume by adding ~10 decibels of music. 3 decibels is somewhat noticeable but not a big deal.

Hope that helps anybody else reading.

Also, here's a link that talks about speaker specifications...

http://www.bcae1.com/speaker.htm

[NFrazier]

Actually the most common causes of dimming lights (at least in the car world) are lack of current (caused by either wire that is too small to adequately carry the current, or a lack of current supply) as well as voltage drops (which is causally related).

Poor grounding points can contribute to the above so you're somewhat correct in that statement.

P.S. I didn't see he was getting the PDX1000.1, last I knew he was looking at the M2000

[I800C0LLECT]

Actually the most common causes of dimming lights (at least in the car world) are lack of current (caused by either wire that is too small to adequately carry the current, or a lack of current supply) as well as voltage drops (which is causally related).

Poor grounding points can contribute to the above so you're somewhat correct in that statement.

P.S. I didn't see he was getting the PDX1000.1, last I knew he was looking at the M2000

If they contribute...then they're culprits...I'm only allowed to be somewhat right? Just because metal is touching metal doesn't mean you have good connectivity. Most connections, even from audio shops aren't very good. Here's a video of a guy that did a decent job!!...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFsQn...3&feature=plcp

I don't know the jetta that well but I'm assuming they put out anywhere from 80 to 100 amps. Ever clamped to see what the average pull was during music? It really isn't that much...can spike pretty high tho...but that's when a well built power supply and capacitors come into play. A well built amp already has the necessary capacitance built in.

p.s. I only mentioned the decibel output because a well built/designed system isn't based on power output. It's about how the speaker is used. 1kw vs 2kw won't make or break the system

[NFrazier]

If they contribute...then they're culprits...I'm only allowed to be somewhat right? Just because metal is touching metal doesn't mean you have good connectivity.

Never said otherwise....

Ever clamped to see what the average pull was during music? It really isn't that much...can spike pretty high tho...

I wrote an article for a car audio magazine regarding the actual average current draw of a system (I also discussed this in another thread here). Music is dynamic. On average the draw is about 25-50% of the maximum current draw. But yes there are peaks and valleys.

a well built/designed system isn't based on power output.

Sure isn't.