like the title says I have a 2011 radio for sale used for about a week before upgrading to navi
no issues scratches or any defects with radio code
I just want your dub din and cage....give it, now.
02 B6 3.0 Avant
Sold and would buy back : http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...di-A3-(Boston)
Quadlock versus ISO connectors.
Different coding and different external connectivity and serial communication with things like OEM iPod interfaces... I think you need to replace any iPod docks etc with a newer spec to communicate with this.
Also, VERY different diversity. This is the Symphony 2+. The older Symphony II used switched diversity, the newer Symphony 2+ uses phase-diversity. Apart from the antenna connections being different, (Fakra versus older ISO) only one antenna of the two will work correctly. Most people just 'cheat' the same signal into both antenna inputs using a 'signal splitter', but the diversity doesn't function correctly that way, so you lose signal in low signal strength/high-noise environments.
You can 'correct' the problem by replacing the two antenna boosters in the rear hatch, and changing some of the wiring. then adapting the second connector behind the dash.
In terms of the rear hatch, it's the reverse of doing the RNS-E conversion, which I did a few years ago.
Read this link from page 4 onwards... you need to do the reverse to get this to work correctly.
The correct solution is posted a=on post #79. -It used to be on page 8, but now it's on page 4.
When I sold my Symphony 2+ unit, I included the two antenna amplifiers from the hatch, and sent the buyer a print of this how-to page also. -Everything worked flawlessly, I understand. -I recall that I sold it for $115 shipped, including the two amplifier modules.
Here's a schematic of the differences between phase diversity and switched-diversity ("Schaltdiversity" in German):
This graphic precedes the Symphony 2+, but the newer Symphony 2+ is phase-diversity, and the older Symphony 2 and Symphony1 were both switched-diversity.
Actually, GreyJetta, if you have access to VAG-COM and you scan your car, you'll notice a fault code saying 'ZF Antenna Short-To-Ground" because since you've swapped a navigation in place of a Symphony, you'll have the newer phase-diversity amplifiers connected into a switch-diversity head unit...
So if you sell this to someone with an older head unit, you should trade rear hatch amplifiers with the buyer, and then add the 90cM fakra cable and 3-pin connector cable as described in post #79 of that link which I posted earlier.
That way you'll BOTH end up with the correct amplifier modules and you won't have the 'ZF short-to-ground' fault code permanently showing up on your scans.
It doesn't work as a garage radio at all well unless you have the correct antenna & amplification system... that was EXACTLY what I was going to do with my old one, before I tried feeding it. it'll play CD's, and that's about it. -No radio.
A1 Caddy... (LOVE the A1.. I've owned a couple, even got married in one!) tougher still to make it work. _Specially with the A3 shape (It doesn't fit in a single DIN or even a Double DIN hole; faceplate it too big.
It WILL work excellently in your 2008 A3. All non-navi A3's after 2007 were prepped with phase-diversity antenna systems from the factory.
I never listen to the radio only cd's or aux or satellite radio so no worries there
for the fitting in the caddy, I'll be installing a mk2 dash to update the interior a little Since I already have a full digifiz so I can relocate the hvac controll lower and trim the Audi radio to fit .
Looking to buy working and non working digifiz
That'll work I think. -Be mindful however that (and you can check this by looking at the one you have) the controls on the front panel extend out BEYOND the extent of the double-DIN backbox, and past the Double-Din standard fascia size... This means that it won't fit into a standard double-din location, though -depending on how generous the clearances are on an A2 dash- you MAY be able to get it to fit.
Be mindful also that it won't shut off with the key, unless you use the 'accessory' positive feed to POWER the radio... in which case you'll always have to enter the code every time you turn the key. -There's no 'switched-positive' connection that 'turns on' the Symphony 2+, that happens over the CAN bus. -My Porsche has a double-DIN radio slot, but in that particular case, there is nowhere near enough clearance to allow for a larger front panel (to include the buttons & switches etc) so it wouldn't work... When I powered it up on the bench and looked into the wiring options, it also became clear that it was going to ALWAYS stay on after the key is removed, also power off after a set time period (I forget if it's 30 or 60 minutes) since it never gets the CAN bus message that the key is in the 'run' position, so it always does the 'power down to save the battery on the assumption that someone may have left the radio running in the parking lot' option.
You can find out for yourself how long that default 'timeout' period is, by just powering it up on the bench with a CB radio power supply clipped to the appropriate pins on the Quadlock, then entering the code, telling it to play the radio or CD ow whatever, and seeing how long it stays on for. -After a while it powers off. -You can then power it back up WITHOUT having to re-enter the code since the power hasn't been interrupted since the code was last entered.
That's why I sold mine in the end... couldn't really dig the idea of a garage radio that kept powering itself down, and -even if I rigged a way to jimmy it into the 951's dashboard (filing down the two side 'lips' around the dash reces and smoothing them would possibly have worked) but that still left me with something that kept powering itself down, and either stayed on when I took the ey out (until it powered down again after whatever the timeout period was) or -if I wired id so the power cut off when the key was removed) had to have the code entered every time I wanted to turn it on.
In the end it only really works in a CAN-bus enabled Audi, I decided.
Cool... you're obviously well up to bench-testing the unit to evaluate it then... -Probably best if you power it up and run a couple of speakers (don't forget, you have to add an amplifier for the rears) and assess its behavior.
In addition, find out if it came from a BOSE-equipped car, since if it's set up for the Bose config, then the front amplifiers will be disabled... if you have a VAG-com, you can just throw it in your car, then check the way it's coded and make any necessary changes, if you want to use the internal amplifier for the front channels. (rears will HAVE to have an amplifier, since they're only line-level output.