Not Running After Engine Replacement?!?!?!?

[FACTORYBOOST]

Hey guys,

Had an exhausting weekend swapping out the blown motor in my buddy's 06 GTI with a newer one that was supposedly running. Anyways, after 30+ hours working on the car, it's all back together no leaks, power to everything. Every connector is hooked up as far as we can tell and I really don't feel like tearing the core support back off to check all of them. Anyways to the real issue...

The battery in the car was no good from having sit for 2 months. Well, replaced that and the car will crank and start, but dies out a second later. We can't scan it as of yet, but it happens every single time. It also took cranking it awhile to get it to start up (assuming a bit of air in the fuel lines?) We did prime the fuel system by turning the key on and off about a dozen times. Any help would be appreciated.

[SCIROCCO SPEED]

hate to ask the obvious questions here, but what year car did the donor engine come out of? i guess start with the obvious and verify its getting fuel, and then spark.

There are 3 lines that run from the passenger side of the engine bay, over across the intake manifold... Make sure those 3 lines are hooked up correctly. Fuel, return, and coolant if I recall correctly.

How long does it sit there and crank for before it finally catches?

[StuMacLean]

Wild guess, but did you freshen up the gas in the tank? If it's been sitting for two months that gas could have gone bad. Just a guess. Good luck.

[FACTORYBOOST]

hate to ask the obvious questions here, but what year car did the donor engine come out of? i guess start with the obvious and verify its getting fuel, and then spark.

There are 3 lines that run from the passenger side of the engine bay, over across the intake manifold... Make sure those 3 lines are hooked up correctly. Fuel, return, and coolant if I recall correctly.

How long does it sit there and crank for before it finally catches?

It cranks only a few times before starting, then it just dies immediately. And I'm pretty sure it's getting spark and fuel because it idles strong for that second before sputtering out.

Wild guess, but did you freshen up the gas in the tank? If it's been sitting for two months that gas could have gone bad. Just a guess. Good luck.

Damn, I though it took at least 4 months to go bad, I think it was from a Shell station down by Indianapolis, not like it matters much... it has like 3/4 tank, so I guess we'll go get some 110

[SCIROCCO SPEED]

it's not the gas. I had my scirocco sitting for almost a year with only 1/4 in it. I charged the battery overnight and it started right up and ran fine.

[mrbikle]

hold the throttle open a bit when starting it to get it going

[FACTORYBOOST]

hold the throttle open a bit when starting it to get it going

Tried that, it was a noticeable difference, but still died

[SCIROCCO SPEED]

well, i guess it comes down to double checking all of your connectors. Did the throttle body come with the motor or is it the old one off the motor that blew? BTW story on how your friend blew his?

[low_passat]

Why can't you scan it?

[FACTORYBOOST]

well, i guess it comes down to double checking all of your connectors. Did the throttle body come with the motor or is it the old one off the motor that blew? BTW story on how your friend blew his?

Yea, I just really didn't want to take the front end off again
And it's the old throttle body, the new engine did not come with an intake manifold or T-Body.
And the motor blew on our way back from Indy picking the car up.
On the highway, driving 80mph and bad noises and lots of shaking and just bad bad bad...
Basically, negligent PO most likely skipped his 10k oil changes and sludge buildup became sludge broke loose, became blocked oil gallery, became grenaded hydraulic cam chain tensioner became seized bearing on intake camshaft and probably bent valves. I'm guessing 11 out of 16

Why can't you scan it?

Did not have scanner
But now have scanner and will scan
It's just a Mac tools scanner I borrowed from a friend at work. Debating buying the V-checker from ECS or saving for a potential VAG-COM purchase, but I would need a new laptop if I was to get that as well...

[StuMacLean]

Where are you? I'm sure there's someone on here who could bring their Vag com to you.

[FACTORYBOOST]

Where are you? I'm sure there's someone on here who could bring their Vag com to you.

Fort Wayne, Indiana.
And honestly I never thought of asking
I'll scan it tonight with the little handheld guy I got and see what happens, if I can't make sense of it I will definitely ask about the VAG-COM for it.

[jbyronr]

Did the new engine come with an ECM? Any possibility that immobilizer is kicking in?
Often will show a key idiot light in the cluster if that's the case.

[xtravbx]

Did the new engine come with an ECM? Any possibility that immobilizer is kicking in?
Often will show a key idiot light in the cluster if that's the case.

+1

[FACTORYBOOST]

Did the new engine come with an ECM? Any possibility that immobilizer is kicking in?
Often will show a key idiot light in the cluster if that's the case.

I didn't notice it, granted we were paying attention to the tach to see if she would live...
And no the new engine did not come with an ECM, would that really be enough to keep it from starting? The engine is from a MT6 BPY just like his...

And the codes we got were for that intake manifold runner flap motor and the wastegate solenoid valve (N75)
P2014
P0243

[xtravbx]

I didn't notice it, granted we were paying attention to the tach to see if she would live...
And no the new engine did not come with an ECM, would that really be enough to keep it from starting? The engine is from a MT6 BPY just like his...

And the codes we got were for that intake manifold runner flap motor and the wastegate solenoid valve (N75)
P2014
P0243

Yes most likely it's an immobilizer issue.

When it turns over and starts, does it sound totally 100% fine, then immediately just die?

[FACTORYBOOST]

Yes most likely it's an immobilizer issue.

When it turns over and starts, does it sound totally 100% fine, then immediately just die?

It sounds good, it sputters once or twice then dies, but I guess the sputter could still be from the Intake Flap motor. I'll look at and possibly get video tonight.

Thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it.

[CarSwapper]

I had no start issue but.it was due to fuel pump relay not kicking in the fuel pump. Is it stock ecu. Once I got chipped for maf less tune I had same problem and had to disconnect my maf sensor. Make sure ur map and maf are connected. Fuel pressure regulators and o2 sensors are all good. Do u have a major vaccuum leak somewhere maybe. It's hard to tell like this. But do u hear ur tb flapper buzzing moving with key on no start. Check ur grounds as well.

[FACTORYBOOST]

I had no start issue but.it was due to fuel pump relay not kicking in the fuel pump. Is it stock ecu. Once I got chipped for maf less tune I had same problem and had to disconnect my maf sensor. Make sure ur map and maf are connected. Fuel pressure regulators and o2 sensors are all good. Do u have a major vaccuum leak somewhere maybe. It's hard to tell like this. But do u hear ur tb flapper buzzing moving with key on no start. Check ur grounds as well.

fuel pump is good and running, we checked that. MAF is plugged in for sure. The intake flap motor wasn't plugged in, but I plugged that in and now no CEL
I have the horrible fear that the timing is off on the motor
We are just going to have it towed to the dealership (I work here at least) and have my tech friend have a look at it to at least determine what is wrong.

[StuMacLean]

If it sounds good when it does run for the 1-2 seconds, it's probably not timing. Cars that have bad timing either sound just awful, or don't run at all.

[SCIROCCO SPEED]

If it sounds good when it does run for the 1-2 seconds, it's probably not timing. Cars that have bad timing either sound just awful, or don't run at all.

True. and it's very simple to check the timing at home. Just take off the upper timing cover, turn the crank by hand (19mm) and check the timing marks on the cam gear to valve cover vs crank pulley to lower timing cover.

[FACTORYBOOST]

True. and it's very simple to check the timing at home. Just take off the upper timing cover, turn the crank by hand (19mm) and check the timing marks on the cam gear to valve cover vs crank pulley to lower timing cover.

Ok, I think I should probably go ahead and try and work this out.
I'm just kind of over it because we spend 36 hours on it that one weekend and got so excited once everything was back together and then nothing...
Looks like we will just Man the FFFF up and do some work
And I will let you know how it goes.

[FACTORYBOOST]

Hey guys I have an update.

It wasn't running because the impulse sender was broken, got that fixed and now there is a huge air leak, no idea where from though.
There is also a huge coolant leak from somewhere behind/under the t-body. I thinking one of the hoses for the oil cooler possibly was all stretched out and popped off... And the air leak I have no clue, maybe Intake mani gasket got pinched or something... Idk, but what are some possible places that the air could leak bad enough to make it idle like dog piss and almost lope like it has cams?

[CarSwapper]

Air leak or vacuum leak? Air leak from ic piping joints, bad or not sitting properly intake mani gasket, tb gasket. Check ur breather hoses from oil filter housing. Coolant leak can br from a number of hoses running under ur intake mani and where the thermostat housing is, cracked or bad gasket. If its a vacuum leak than its a different story and can be in lots of places. Common huge leaks will be from head where vaccine pump is there is 2 large hoses going in and can come loose as well as from driver side back of the motor vacum line running to your brake booster.

[FACTORYBOOST]

Air leak or vacuum leak? Air leak from ic piping joints, bad or not sitting properly intake mani gasket, tb gasket. Check ur breather hoses from oil filter housing. Coolant leak can br from a number of hoses running under ur intake mani and where the thermostat housing is, cracked or bad gasket. If its a vacuum leak than its a different story and can be in lots of places. Common huge leaks will be from head where vaccine pump is there is 2 large hoses going in and can come loose as well as from driver side back of the motor vacum line running to your brake booster.

tech says it's an intake system leak, he's not differentiating between the two. And we will find what it was, I'm hoping one of the hoses was just too stretched out and is split or something. Most of those hoses are cheap in comparison to the oil cooler or anything like that.

[CarSwapper]

yeah that doesnt narrow it down, check all hoses from turbo to intake mani and its respective clamps dv valve etc. hope u find the problem and please post back even if it something stupid or obvious.
Good Luck

[FACTORYBOOST]

yeah that doesnt narrow it down, check all hoses from turbo to intake mani and its respective clamps dv valve etc. hope u find the problem and please post back even if it something stupid or obvious.
Good Luck

Yea, it will be getting looked at thoroughly. And it probably will be something stupid. I have that feeling. Like the first time it was throwing a code for the intake flap motor. We missed the connector when putting it back together

[FACTORYBOOST]

PCV Breather pipe 06F013215B...
We updated the PCV valve but not the pipe. And the new pipe has a one-way check valve that works with the new valve. So new PCV valve without new breather pipe = constantly sucking vacuum