awp wiring thread

[$800rado]

heres the low down on awp wiring for most swaps check the bently to make sure colors are close more or less wires I removed the ones i didnt use and capped them off
this ones going into my corrado cut and solder to fuse box

awp or most motor codes corrado fuse box


AWP SIDE----------------------------------------------------------CORRADO SIDE

DLC t16 16 pin plug

pin 1 black/blue {-------------------------------------------------------} Q/03
pin 2 blank
pin 3 blank
pin 4 brown {---------------- ground----------------}
pin 5 brown {---------------- ground ---------------}
pin 6 orange/black {---- connects to T32a in spedo cluster and T10w pin 2----}
pin 7 grey/white {---- connects to T32/T32a and orange plug T10----}
pin 8 blank
pin 9 blank
pin 10 blank
pin 11 blank
pin 12 blank
pin 13 white/red {---- connects to pin 1 white plug T10w----}
pin 14 orange/brown {---- connects to pin3 white plug T10w T32a cluster----}
pin 15 blank
pin 16 red/white {----------------------------------------------------------------} Q/03

orange plug T10

pin 1 gray/white {---- connects to pin 1 on DLC----}
pin 2 red/green {---- blank----}
pin 3 black/green {---- connects to back up lights----} F/07
pin 4 blank
pin 5 blank
pin 6 blue/white {---- connects to speed sensor in the cluster ----}
pin 7 green {---- coolant fan control ----} A1/05
pin 8 blue/red {---- a/c switch ----} N/05
pin 9 blank
pin 10 black/blue {---- brake lights ----} E/03

brown plug T6

pin 1 black/purple {---- ECU control connects with T14 ----} G1/10
pin 2 purple/white {---- fuel relay----} G1/03
pin 3 red/black {---- stater interlock ----} F/01
pin 4 red/green {---- ECU ----} F/05
pin 5 blue/yellow {---- control elements ----} G1/04

White plug T10w

pin 1 white/red {---- Goes to pin 13 DLC T16 ----}
pin 2 black {---- Goes to DLC connects to all orange/black----}
pin 3 white {---- Goes to DLC connects to all orange/brown----}
pin 4 white/red {---- Goes to Clutch switch----}
pin 5 brown/red {---- Goes to alt light in cluster ----}
pin 6 brown/red {---- thermostat in raditor ----} A1/05
pin 7 blank
pin 8 blank
pin 9 blank
pin 10 blank

T14 in the engine

pin 1 green/black {---- oil pressure switch ----}
pin 2 black/green {---- powers speed sensor switch 20a fuse ----}g1/11
pin 3 green {---- speedo goes to T32/28 blue plug behind your speedo ----}
pin 4 purple {---- engine coolant temp

[$800rado]

bump

[2OVT]

What the **** is Q? What is Q to?

I only used F, G1, G2 and (S; which you kind of minus since that is for the wipers) Z1 and IIRC Y.

Supply pictures- interested in seeing how you did this. My route-
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...20v-1.8T/page4

[bonesaw]

Q is Alot if dash stuff. http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html has Alot of good info.

[$800rado]

What the **** is Q? What is Q to?

I only used F, G1, G2 and (S; which you kind of minus since that is for the wipers) Z1 and IIRC Y.

Supply pictures- interested in seeing how you did this. My route-
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...20v-1.8T/page4

Q/03 is to 7.5 fuse from the corrado for the DLC in the bently for the 1.8t side

[$800rado]

hey bonesaw am i in the right direction

[bonesaw]

If I recall correctly it just needs switched ignition.

[2OVT]

Q/03 is to 7.5 fuse from the corrado for the DLC in the bently for the 1.8t side

I'm confused. If you're doing a partial swap (splicing AWP to CE2) then why do you need to mess with Q? What part of Q is to which harness? Just interior?

Q/03 Cigarette Lighter, Radio, Amplified Speaker Power

explain to me why you need this, please? And wtf is the DLC?

Also- did you use both sides of the T14?

Sorry- I'm still figuring my wiring out.

[dik-van-dub]

this would work out so much easier for you guys

T6-brown connector
pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 10)

T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 6)

T10W -White connector
pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)


10 Orange
pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y ( diagnostics K diag port)
pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Y (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12)
pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)


T10h Blue
pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y (Throttle pedal in car)

[$800rado]

I'm confused. If you're doing a partial swap (splicing AWP to CE2) then why do you need to mess with Q? What part of Q is to which harness? Just interior?


explain to me why you need this, please? And wtf is the DLC?

Also- did you use both sides of the T14?

Sorry- I'm still figuring my wiring out.

DLC is your data link connector so you can read your codes in the bently it is connected to a 7.5 fuse and links up to your radio so i picked Q/03 it is the fuse to my corrados radio as for T14
i have it on paper ill post it

[$800rado]

this would work out so much easier for you guys

T6-brown connector
pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 10)

T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 6)

T10W -White connector
pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)


10 Orange
pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y ( diagnostics K diag port)
pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Y (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12)
pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)


T10h Blue
pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y (Throttle pedal in car)

where did you find this one from can you link the swap and for T14a pin 4 what kind or size resistor did you use

[2OVT]

this would work out so much easier for you guys

T6-brown connector
pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 10)

T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 6)

T10W -White connector
pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)


10 Orange
pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y ( diagnostics K diag port)
pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Y (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12)
pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)


T10h Blue
pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y (Throttle pedal in car)

holy tats- thanks.

When it says 'needs fuse' I am assuming you add a fuse? Sorry, I'm new to wiring and am still figuring all this out for my swap. It's the part I am stuck with

What is all the 'Y' deals about?

Also I am confused with the T14a, since that sits in the bay- are you guys just pulling it through the firewall or cutting and extending?

DLC is your data link connector so you can read your codes in the bently it is connected to a 7.5 fuse and links up to your radio so i picked Q/03 it is the fuse to my corrados radio as for T14
i have it on paper ill post it

Ok cool, that gives me a good idea. Have been trying to figure out what to do with daignostics port.

[$800rado]

T14a i ran mine through the fire wall

[2OVT]

T14a i ran mine through the fire wall

did you chop the connector off or what? pictures would be rad

[$800rado]

kept the plug cut as far back as you can

[2OVT]

ok, just like I did then. I was planning on doing the same thing. I was always assuming when people said T14a that they were talking about one half of the T14a/b connector, so I just confused myself

we should keep this going for a sticky eventually. I'd like to be able to get it all down pat before I splice my harness later this week

and please more pictures of the harness through firewall.

[$800rado]

ill post the pics just trying to get it done in the right direction

[dik-van-dub]

the y and n are for yes needed, n for not needed

i keep the t14 plug in place it helps for when you want to remove your motor

[2OVT]

the y and n are for yes needed, n for not needed

i keep the t14 plug in place it helps for when you want to remove your motor

And just spliced the other end of the t14 to the ce2
Connectors?

Also- my g60 doesn't have any sort of line to communicate to ISO 9141, so how should the dlc be ran?

What about the black connector and the purple one?

[dik-van-dub]

black is for the cruise control, and which purple connector are you reffering to

any how link to thread is here

the holy grail of wiring me7 ecu's

[2OVT]

black is for the cruise control, and which purple connector are you reffering to

any how link to thread is here

the holy grail of wiring me7 ecu's

I'll take a pic. Assuming my purple is because my donor mk4 was an auto.

edit: memory is telling me it is gray, not purple. my apologise.

[$800rado]

this would work out so much easier for you guys

T6-brown connector
pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 10)

T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 6)

T10W -White connector
pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)


10 Orange
pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y ( diagnostics K diag port)
pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Y (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12)
pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)


T10h Blue
pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y (Throttle pedal in car)

hey your brown connector T6 pin 4 says it goes to pin 4 of what ? yours says to Y\04 i put mine to F\05 its a ecu power and goes to a fuse box in the a2 side http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

[dik-van-dub]

it actually is live from Y4

why get power from other parts of loom when you can use the standard ce2 engine plugs makes removal a lot easier if need be

[2OVT]

It was gray.

[dik-van-dub]

i would say thats for the auto loom, but couldnt say for certain

[2OVT]

figured it all out

[$800rado]

[2OVT]

I have stripped my harness and followed the rabbit hole.

before-


after-

[$800rado]

yup i cut mine pretty thin too

[2OVT]

yup i cut mine pretty thin too

you should put up a build thread or post more pictures to give me inspiration to finish

did you primlarily use F, G1, G2, Y and Z1 for the swap?

[qksilva]

Here's my contribution. I compiled this after looking at a whole bunch of swap threads, bently research, and trial & error. I just got everything to work today. A/C tommorrow and other small stuff.



updated table


great link
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.ph...ss-install-FAQ

[2OVT]

awesome, lets keep this alive

[qksilva]

I updated my table a little.

Everything works but the reverse lights, CEL, and VSS signal to ECU.

The CEL doesnt light up even at start up. IDK why.

I didnt hook up the reverse switch to the trans yet.

The big issue is the ECU isnt getting a VSS signal though my speedo is working. Does the AWP ecu even need a vss signal? Is there anyway to get the signal to the ecu besides running a mk4 cluster?

[2OVT]

I updated my table a little.

Everything works but the reverse lights, CEL, and VSS signal to ECU.

The CEL doesnt light up even at start up. IDK why.

I didnt hook up the reverse switch to the trans yet.

The big issue is the ECU isnt getting a VSS signal though my speedo is working. Does the AWP ecu even need a vss signal? Is there anyway to get the signal to the ecu besides running a mk4 cluster?

if you're not using the original trans that the harness is for, you'll need a tach adapter to convert the signal from analog to digital

[qksilva]

if you're not using the original trans that the harness is for, you'll need a tach adapter to convert the signal from analog to digital

So, I need to get a signal converter for the vss? Im using a mk3 vss which i think outputs a digital signal