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    Thread: Thats it, Im going to buy a bike

    1. Member
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      07-09-2012 01:41 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by Fahrbomb View Post
      Don't pay too much attention to average speed. Just keep riding and getting miles in your legs.
      ^ This.

      Also there's also a lot to learn in how to ride a bike, from using your gears effectively to safe riding in a group. See if your bike shop or local bike club has any no-drop rides where newbies are welcome. Riding with others is really one of the joys biking, plus you'll be able to see where you stand compared to others in terms of speed, endurance, and general fitness.

      And when you get your shoes and clipless pedals, be sure you have the shop fit them to you too.

    2. Senior Member jnm2.0t's Avatar
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      07-09-2012 01:45 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by dts View Post
      And when you get your shoes and clipless pedals, be sure you have the shop fit them to you too.
      Will certainly do this. From some poking around it looks like people with knee issues should have some float. Any thoughts on that?
      I'm just a regular Joe, with a regular job. I'm your average white, suburbanite slob.

      Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit5GTI
      You have cornered the entire 'I hate Ford Fusions' market around here
      Quote Originally Posted by Turbio!
      Pure electric vehicles will never fully replace fueled (pure ICE or PHEV) vehicles.

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      07-09-2012 05:42 PM #28
      speedplay has the most float, iirc.

      and the Zeros are adjustable in float
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      07-09-2012 07:33 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by BsickPassat View Post
      speedplay has the most float, iirc.

      and the Zeros are adjustable in float
      LOVE my Speedplays

    5. Senior Member jnm2.0t's Avatar
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      07-10-2012 12:18 PM #30
      So those seem totally reasonable for pedals, especially in chrome-molly like I would probably start with. I cant figure out the real differences between the Zero, Light Action, and X thuogh, all about the same price and weight. I know they say zero is for performance and light action is recreational to serious enthusiasts, but other than that I can't tell the difference.

      Zero weighs 108 and costs $129
      Light Action weighs 110 and costs $115
      X weighs 110 and costs $115


      Then there's the shoes...
      I'm just a regular Joe, with a regular job. I'm your average white, suburbanite slob.

      Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit5GTI
      You have cornered the entire 'I hate Ford Fusions' market around here
      Quote Originally Posted by Turbio!
      Pure electric vehicles will never fully replace fueled (pure ICE or PHEV) vehicles.

    6. Member
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      07-10-2012 01:54 PM #31
      these days the cool kids are talking power output (in watts)

      speedplay
      zero has adjustable float
      light action means it is easier to clip in and out
      x has more float than zeros
      2008 Passat wagon, 2.0T 6MT with mods
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    7. Senior Member jnm2.0t's Avatar
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      07-12-2012 11:59 AM #32
      Friend of mine that road for Team USA in 2 Olympics also highly recommended Speedplay. Stopped by the LBS yesterday and they had some inexpensive Shimano shoes that seemed really comfortable, any other brands that should be considered too? Thanks for all the input!
      I'm just a regular Joe, with a regular job. I'm your average white, suburbanite slob.

      Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit5GTI
      You have cornered the entire 'I hate Ford Fusions' market around here
      Quote Originally Posted by Turbio!
      Pure electric vehicles will never fully replace fueled (pure ICE or PHEV) vehicles.

    8. Member teutonicgoodness's Avatar
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      07-12-2012 01:01 PM #33
      Fit is key to avoiding joint / neck / shoulder pain.

      I would go frame over components as most important because you should build the bike around the frameset and you can easily upgrade the components over time.

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      07-12-2012 02:23 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by jnm2.0t View Post
      Friend of mine that road for Team USA in 2 Olympics also highly recommended Speedplay. Stopped by the LBS yesterday and they had some inexpensive Shimano shoes that seemed really comfortable, any other brands that should be considered too? Thanks for all the input!
      my road shoes are Northwave

      my MTB shoes are Specialized

      specialized shoes have a varus wedge built in to correct the foot alignment to the pedals and specialized has a couple of insoles for specific feet
      2008 Passat wagon, 2.0T 6MT with mods
      Other Rides:
      - 2013 Cannondale CAADX-6
      - 2010 Specialized Secteur Elite
      - 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29-er

    10. 08-18-2012 09:26 PM #35
      I have a Trek, and am interested in a Diamondback road bike. I looked on their websites:

      Trek 1.1
      H2 Fit
      The right fit for most performance riders, H2 retains all the handling geometry and ride characteristics of the H1 platform, with a slightly higher head tube height to put less strain on a rider’s back and neck. It will also accommodate riders with slightly less pelvic rotation and core stability. The H2 higher head tube is the right way to get most riders in the right place. No goofy high-rise stems, no huge stack of spacers—the look is nothing but pro. The right fit for select Pro Team riders.
      Podium 1
      Enhanced Performance Geometry

      The right fit for Endurance/Performance riders, Enhanced Performance Geometry (EPG) retains all the handling, geometry and ride characteristics of our carbon Competition platform, with a slightly higher head tube height to put less strain on a rider’s back and neck. This improves the fit for riders with marginally less pelvic rotation and core stability. The EPG’s higher head tube is the right way to get many riders in the right place. No goofy high-rise stems, no huge stack of spacers. The look is nothing but pro
      Didn't they think someone would notice? Way to go, Raleigh Bicycle Company!
      Last edited by .je; 08-18-2012 at 09:29 PM.

    11. Senior Member Son's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 02:15 AM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by jnm2.0t View Post
      Let me ask you this... presuming you have two equally well fitting bikes, one has a carbon frame and lower quality components and the other is aluminum but better components which do you take? To me it would seem that the components are easier to upgrade piece by piece.
      I would go with an aluminum frame, if it's not a really cheap and badly designed one. Alu frames are just slightly heavier than carbon, that's all. (OK, carbon also takes much higher forces before breaking and can be repaired, if it gets a hit, but I don't think you need to worry about that.) Also, I'd spend more than $1,200. Don't get a bike that will make you want a new bike after a year.
      Previously known as Son of a B...5er!

    12. Member Martinus's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 11:47 AM #37
      There is some bad info on here ...

      Have an LBS fit you, then go online to buy... is dumb.
      The 1 exeption if you are screwing over Prformance Bike... Chances are they didn't fit you right either...

      + the jig is up, when you have a problem and bring your BD bike in for work @ LBS.

      Waiting for last years bikes to go on sale, and then buy only works for "little people" and basketball players.

      To answer "the which is better ?" The alu with "better" comp, vs. the CF with "good" copmponents ... Which ever ( frame or group ) you think is easy-er to upgrade down the road.
      Last edited by Martinus; 08-20-2012 at 12:35 PM.

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