Thats it, Im going to buy a bike

[jnm2.0t]

Had 2 knee surgeries and it is acting up a bit from running. Always wanted a decent road bike to get going in this, mostly a weekend thing. Thinking of around a $1200 price point for a first bike. Not opposed to buying used or last year, more than happy to.

Running through the usual Felt, Scott, Cannondale, Specialized, etc. Any suggestions?

On the used side what to look for, esp. if I find a carbon frame? Makes me kind of nervous. This looks good though... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/3114037669.html

[BsickPassat]

since this is the first bike, buy new or leftover from a local bike shop (LBS)

bike fit is key to happy riding and happy knees....

what brand? your choice. choose the LbS most willing to help you make the right choice to your needs

[tiptronic]

since this is the first bike, buy new or leftover from a local bike shop (LBS)

bike fit is key to happy riding and happy knees....

what brand? your choice. choose the LbS most willing to help you make the right choice to your needs

I second this ^

[VWAddict]

I'm recovering from a torn meniscus and ligament, so I feel your pain.

-VERY literally.

The advice above is priceless. FIT is vital. Even a great bike -fitted carelessly- can do harm. -This is where local bike stores triumph over internet sales.

[Fahrbomb]

As stated, get fit correctly and choose the bike that feels best. Most of the big brand names will have similar offerings at this price so choose the one that feels the best.

[jnm2.0t]

Alright, thanks guys.

Let me ask you this... presuming you have two equally well fitting bikes, one has a carbon frame and lower quality components and the other is aluminum but better components which do you take? To me it would seem that the components are easier to upgrade piece by piece.

[Lurkin bunny]

You could always do what I did given that you don't feel all to terrible about it. Go to your local bike shop and get fitted then order the bike that feels best online, I did that with the road bike I just bought and saved myself 600 bucks (bikesdirect.com). Although my best friend works at the bike shop so it wasn't all too weird to have him help me fit a bike and then leave without buying anything. I'm in almost the same boat, I cant run anymore after 2 knee surgeries and I've basically got to go in there again and have them dig around and fix it yet again.

[jnm2.0t]

Id rather go with the LBS, i don't know anything about bicycle maintenance and most offer free tune ups for a year. Lots of LBS here, shopped them before but didnt buy. Very helpful people, would give them the business esp. since they have some awesome deals on '11 models.

[synthsis]

Alright, thanks guys.

Let me ask you this... presuming you have two equally well fitting bikes, one has a carbon frame and lower quality components and the other is aluminum but better components which do you take? To me it would seem that the components are easier to upgrade piece by piece.

components over frame ALL DAY.

[VWAddict]

Yeaaaah... My conscience wouldn't let me do that either (get help at the LBS and then buy online) and there's NO guarantee that a bike you buy online will 'feel' how you think it will.

As to light frame versus better components... What are your goals for riding? -If you want to set a time or race that's one thing and lighter may be faster... or if you want to score specific mileage targets then a lighter bike might not beat you up so much... but if you want to exercise or lose weight, or simply 'push' against a physical exertion 'limit', then it doesn't matter whether one is faster or goes further. -Both will be the same, so maybe quality gear over raw lightness.

For me (in the Shimano range) 105 is as low as I can go... I don't like the way you upshift on Tiagra etc... and the SRAM 'double-tap' is unfamiliar to me, so my own preference is to get at least a comfortable/familiar set of equipment.

Carbon frame with Tiagra would be useless to me, but aluminium with 105 immensely more 'friendly'.

[Fahrbomb]

components over frame ALL DAY.

This.

Keep in mind that you will also need money for other things too like shorts, water bottles, cages, computer , pedals, shoes etc.. Not all necessities, but stuff you will probably want or eventually need.

[jnm2.0t]

I see myself going for 1 to 2 hour rides tops on a weekend morning, then some commuting mixed in. Mostly exercise but I feel biking will be more amenable to me than running is. I always played hockey and biking just seems more akin than running in terms of how you exert your effort.

So the one I am eying is a Felt Z6 from 2011 $1199 locally. They also have a Speedster S10 for $1399. Scott has ultegra with aluminum, Felt has 105 with carbon. Weight difference is -0.55lbs for the Felt.

[synthsis]

that's actually a pretty tough call. I would suggest riding them both to see how they feel to you. As stated above, keep in mind there is some other stuff you're going to need/want to buy in addition to the bike and the $200 diff between the bikes would cover most of it.

[VR6JetPilot]

as long as the components aren't too crappy, i'd go with a better frame and upgrade parts as needed or when you have extra cash. i usually end up changing a few parts anyway everytime i buy a bike.

Alright, thanks guys.

Let me ask you this... presuming you have two equally well fitting bikes, one has a carbon frame and lower quality components and the other is aluminum but better components which do you take? To me it would seem that the components are easier to upgrade piece by piece.

[Iceman18T]

I just went through this during the Spring. IMO, frame over components. Components will wear over time and you will eventually need to replace them, that's when you upgrade. Get a good frame and build on it. I'm not saying compromise on the components, make sure you get something on the good to better level. The SRAM Apex on the Cannondale is a prefect place to start. I would go with that bike if that is your frame size.

I was juggling between a cross bike and a road bike. Giant Defy TCX alum with SRAM Rival vs. the Defy Composite 2 with SRAM Apex. I decided to go with the composite road bike. I was cautious about going carbon/composite, but I am glad I went with it over Alum. The bike is stored in my basement and I haul it on the roof of my car, the lighter the better.
The SRAM double tap is nice and super easy to adapt to.

[BsickPassat]

I see myself going for 1 to 2 hour rides tops on a weekend morning, then some commuting mixed in. Mostly exercise but I feel biking will be more amenable to me than running is. I always played hockey and biking just seems more akin than running in terms of how you exert your effort.

So the one I am eying is a Felt Z6 from 2011 $1199 locally. They also have a Speedster S10 for $1399. Scott has ultegra with aluminum, Felt has 105 with carbon. Weight difference is -0.55lbs for the Felt.

so...the ones you're eyeing out locally.... how do you know the frame is appropriate for you?

[jnm2.0t]

so...the ones you're eyeing out locally.... how do you know the frame is appropriate for you?

Dont for sure but starting there.

So they're actually out of the Z6 in my size as it turns out, only have 2012 which is downgraded to tiagra, last years was 105.

They do have a CR1 Team which is even lighter at 17.42 but its $1699. Full 105 + Dura Ace BB. Maybe if they throw in a helmet and it fits...

[BsickPassat]

it's not necessarily a Tiagra downgrade.... due to trickle down technology, the Tiagra has been upgraded to about the level of the old 105 (5600)

[jnm2.0t]

Ended up with the CR1 Team from 2011, $1650 + discounts on gear

[Papa Dras]

Solid frame over components. Components can and will be replaced before a frame and fork every will be. Start with a solid base and swap/upgrade as needed down the road.

[jhayesvw]

components over frame ALL DAY.

i agree except that 105 up are all fine.

Ended up with the CR1 Team from 2011, $1650 + discounts on gear

nice bike, you'll enjoy it!

[jnm2.0t]

went out for about 9 miles yesterday, maybe overdid it a bit, had a few miles at 22-23mph based on my phones app. Went out for 13.5 this morning and focused on keeping a comfortable cadence that didn't overdo it, it says I averaged 16.xx mph. I have no concept of how this stacks up in the world of cycling, I know running paces but not biking. Thoughts?

[Fahrbomb]

Don't pay too much attention to average speed. Just keep riding and getting miles in your legs.

[Iceman18T]

Did you get fitted before you left with the bike?

[jnm2.0t]

Don't pay too much attention to average speed. Just keep riding and getting miles in your legs.

Ya it definitely was a different workout than running has been, I prefer this by a long shot. Never got to the point of getting a workout for my lungs or even really sweaty, just getting my legs up to speed. That was also with platforms, need to get some clipless.

[dts]

Don't pay too much attention to average speed. Just keep riding and getting miles in your legs.

^ This.

Also there's also a lot to learn in how to ride a bike, from using your gears effectively to safe riding in a group. See if your bike shop or local bike club has any no-drop rides where newbies are welcome. Riding with others is really one of the joys biking, plus you'll be able to see where you stand compared to others in terms of speed, endurance, and general fitness.

And when you get your shoes and clipless pedals, be sure you have the shop fit them to you too.

[jnm2.0t]

And when you get your shoes and clipless pedals, be sure you have the shop fit them to you too.

Will certainly do this. From some poking around it looks like people with knee issues should have some float. Any thoughts on that?

[BsickPassat]

speedplay has the most float, iirc.

and the Zeros are adjustable in float

[synthsis]

speedplay has the most float, iirc.

and the Zeros are adjustable in float

LOVE my Speedplays

[jnm2.0t]

So those seem totally reasonable for pedals, especially in chrome-molly like I would probably start with. I cant figure out the real differences between the Zero, Light Action, and X thuogh, all about the same price and weight. I know they say zero is for performance and light action is recreational to serious enthusiasts, but other than that I can't tell the difference.

Zero weighs 108 and costs $129
Light Action weighs 110 and costs $115
X weighs 110 and costs $115


Then there's the shoes...

[BsickPassat]

these days the cool kids are talking power output (in watts)

speedplay
zero has adjustable float
light action means it is easier to clip in and out
x has more float than zeros

[jnm2.0t]

Friend of mine that road for Team USA in 2 Olympics also highly recommended Speedplay. Stopped by the LBS yesterday and they had some inexpensive Shimano shoes that seemed really comfortable, any other brands that should be considered too? Thanks for all the input!

[teutonicgoodness]

Fit is key to avoiding joint / neck / shoulder pain.

I would go frame over components as most important because you should build the bike around the frameset and you can easily upgrade the components over time.

[BsickPassat]

Friend of mine that road for Team USA in 2 Olympics also highly recommended Speedplay. Stopped by the LBS yesterday and they had some inexpensive Shimano shoes that seemed really comfortable, any other brands that should be considered too? Thanks for all the input!

my road shoes are Northwave

my MTB shoes are Specialized

specialized shoes have a varus wedge built in to correct the foot alignment to the pedals and specialized has a couple of insoles for specific feet

[.je]

I have a Trek, and am interested in a Diamondback road bike. I looked on their websites:

Trek 1.1

H2 Fit
The right fit for most performance riders, H2 retains all the handling geometry and ride characteristics of the H1 platform, with a slightly higher head tube height to put less strain on a rider’s back and neck. It will also accommodate riders with slightly less pelvic rotation and core stability. The H2 higher head tube is the right way to get most riders in the right place. No goofy high-rise stems, no huge stack of spacers—the look is nothing but pro. The right fit for select Pro Team riders.

Podium 1

Enhanced Performance Geometry

The right fit for Endurance/Performance riders, Enhanced Performance Geometry (EPG) retains all the handling, geometry and ride characteristics of our carbon Competition platform, with a slightly higher head tube height to put less strain on a rider’s back and neck. This improves the fit for riders with marginally less pelvic rotation and core stability. The EPG’s higher head tube is the right way to get many riders in the right place. No goofy high-rise stems, no huge stack of spacers. The look is nothing but pro

Didn't they think someone would notice? Way to go, Raleigh Bicycle Company!