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    Thread: Vancouver teen is going Big Turbo!

    1. 08-02-2012 06:33 PM #71
      Quote Originally Posted by 20VCanuck View Post
      Finally got to seafoam it, have an exhaust leak turbo to downpipe. Could be that when I was installing it I couldnt get a proper gasket in time so I use a circle gasket that just went to two diagonal bolts. Going to try and tighten it down, if not I may try and pull it out and see what happens.


      Running bkr7e at .028 Is that gap okay?

      I just starting having another issue. going into gears at certain times feels spongy/hard. Not hard as it takes a while to get in, but it doesnt feel solid in there and feels spongy. usually its reverse and 1.

      Could it just be linkage? Or possibly the clutch. I didnt have this issue before the before, and I havent really mashed any gears, so Im hoping it isnt the tranny itself.

      .028 is good...with the mk5 coils you can open the gap up some more

    2. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-03-2012 08:57 AM #72
      Quote Originally Posted by Twopnt016v View Post
      .028 is good...with the mk5 coils you can open the gap up some more
      i run .026", OP if you have an misfires close the gap a little. I'm on the stock coils tho
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    3. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-03-2012 02:13 PM #73
      Not really having misfire issues, just running rich. Im assuming from exhaust leaks.

      Im more concerned about my gear selector issue now.

      I just starting having another issue. going into gears at certain times feels spongy/hard. Not hard as it takes a while to get in, but it doesnt feel solid in there and feels spongy. usually its reverse and 1.

      Could it just be linkage? Or possibly the clutch. I didnt have this issue before the before, and I havent really mashed any gears, so Im hoping it isnt the tranny itself.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    4. Member sabbySC's Avatar
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      08-03-2012 05:28 PM #74
      CTS gt3071r and more

    5. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-03-2012 09:10 PM #75
      ahhhh frig I feel like a retard. n75 was caught in the linkage.

      Problem fixed.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    6. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-03-2012 10:00 PM #76
      Quote Originally Posted by 20VCanuck View Post
      ahhhh frig I feel like a retard. n75 was caught in the linkage.

      Problem fixed.
      sometimes that happens
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    7. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-04-2012 02:58 PM #77
      Got diggen around and my back bottom bolt from the turbo to downpipe has backed itself off and vanished.

      Those with the cts kit, how do you get to that bolt to tighten it?
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    8. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-04-2012 03:07 PM #78
      Quote Originally Posted by 20VCanuck View Post
      Got diggen around and my back bottom bolt from the turbo to downpipe has backed itself off and vanished.

      Those with the cts kit, how do you get to that bolt to tighten it?
      you mean turbine housing to o2 pipe? that back bottom one is kinda a pain to get too, but i installed mine with a 1/4" ratchet with long extension. it's hard to get a 3/8" back there but you can if your ratchet isn't too big. you should break out the exhaust putty now lol. save yourself from having to do this repeatedly. i went thru that
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    9. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-04-2012 05:07 PM #79
      Yeah, I defiantly dont want to be doing this again, at least I know why I am leaking there now.

      I thought maybe there was a trick. Maybe going the pass wheel area. guess not


      Added an ssqv, just get a bit of flutter when releasing throttle 5ish psi. not sure if its a big deal.
      Holy that thing is loud though.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    10. Member Budsdubbin's Avatar
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      08-04-2012 06:23 PM #80
      A flutter of your bov or diverter valve usually indicates a vacuum leak.
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      08-04-2012 06:32 PM #81
      Quote Originally Posted by 20VCanuck View Post
      Yeah, I defiantly dont want to be doing this again, at least I know why I am leaking there now.

      I thought maybe there was a trick. Maybe going the pass wheel area. guess not


      Added an ssqv, just get a bit of flutter when releasing throttle 5ish psi. not sure if its a big deal.
      Holy that thing is loud though.
      is your adjustable? maybe you should loosen it just a hair.
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    12. 08-04-2012 06:55 PM #82
      Flutter or serge? My ssqv basically doesn't open when i'm sub 5 psi.
      Canadian Immo 2 and 3 defeat service, PM for more information.

    13. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-05-2012 04:40 PM #83
      I was assuming it was flutter. It only happens when throttle is lifted.

      not as audible at higher boost. Will vacuum leak as a whole affect this or only the specfic line? I have a direct connection from the valve to the manifold.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

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      08-06-2012 11:05 AM #84
      Yes ....but also if your valve is adjustable for variable spring rates and the tension is too low on the spring then that maybe your problem. I had a similar issue with my APR r1 diverter and they sent me out an upgraded spring.
      20th Build ~9:5:1 wiseco 81mm forge pisons~IE 20mm rifle drilled H beams~Calico rod bearing~stock port AWP head matched to a IE intake manifold~hemi throttlebody~Custom downpipe/turboback~Self maestro tuned~tial 38mm wastegate~GT3076r .63ar Vband~6 puck Clutchnet~PTE600~USRT 1000cc gen2's~044 IE surge assembly~IE fuelrail~fuelab adjustable FPR

    15. 08-06-2012 11:44 AM #85
      Quote Originally Posted by AmIdYfReAk View Post
      Flutter or serge? My ssqv basically doesn't open when i'm sub 5 psi.
      pretty much how mine is, im not using a n75 valve tho. dual stg mbc ftw

    16. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-06-2012 11:46 AM #86
      Quote Originally Posted by weenerdog3443 View Post
      pretty much how mine is, im not using a n75 valve tho. dual stg mbc ftw
      Quote Originally Posted by AmIdYfReAk View Post
      Flutter or serge? My ssqv basically doesn't open when i'm sub 5 psi.
      thats crazy your valves wont open below 5psi. mine is audible not even in boost
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    17. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-06-2012 02:25 PM #87
      Quote Originally Posted by Budsdubbin View Post
      Yes ....but also if your valve is adjustable for variable spring rates and the tension is too low on the spring then that maybe your problem. I had a similar issue with my APR r1 diverter and they sent me out an upgraded spring.

      Yeah it has an adjustable nut, I backed it off thinking the spring was too tight and it made it worse. I snugged it up and its a little better. Still flutters a bit.

      It also could be because I dont have the black vac res anymore.
      Last edited by 20VCanuck; 08-06-2012 at 04:43 PM.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    18. Member Budsdubbin's Avatar
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      08-06-2012 05:23 PM #88
      take intake or brake clean and spray down your manifold and all vacuum lines. If you hear a dip in the idle there ya go
      20th Build ~9:5:1 wiseco 81mm forge pisons~IE 20mm rifle drilled H beams~Calico rod bearing~stock port AWP head matched to a IE intake manifold~hemi throttlebody~Custom downpipe/turboback~Self maestro tuned~tial 38mm wastegate~GT3076r .63ar Vband~6 puck Clutchnet~PTE600~USRT 1000cc gen2's~044 IE surge assembly~IE fuelrail~fuelab adjustable FPR

    19. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-06-2012 06:43 PM #89
      Quote Originally Posted by 20VCanuck View Post
      Yeah it has an adjustable nut, I backed it off thinking the spring was too tight and it made it worse. I snugged it up and its a little better. Still flutters a bit.

      It also could be because I dont have the black vac res anymore.
      it's not because you don't have the res lol. i took mine off a very long time ago
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    20. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-08-2012 04:35 PM #90
      Going to try and get it going good friday.

      I just checked my fuel trims. Its all 0. I was told I do not need to resistor the deletes. This is confusing because travis_gli does not have them resistored and im pretty sure he has trim correction.

      Could this be that I am running so rich (.75 at most) it will zero everything? Or do I need resistors. I will most likely throw some in anyway.


      I believe this is a huge factor in getting my car running right.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    21. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-10-2012 11:03 PM #91
      Got a little bit of work done today.

      The good: Threw some resistors in. Now I have ltft's! Havent driven it enough to get acurate readings yet but still.

      Got that back bolt on the turbo tightened up.

      The bad

      Still have a massive exhaust leak turbine housing to o2 pipe. I guess I'll either have to try a new gasket, or no gasket.

      Im almost sure its missing, plugs are pretty foul but by the time I pulled them napa was closed.


      Those with the 2.0t coils do they help? Thinking of getting some. are the adaptors/hold downs needed?
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    22. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 04:10 AM #92
      I think I may have killed my car...

      Was driving home, just normal driving and it got really loud. Like massive exhaust leak loud. It sounds like a tractor. like youve ripped your flex pipe but louder.

      I thought it was an exhaust leak because when the sound came I got on it once and it built boost so slow.


      Took it home, looked at all connections. (it was late and dark) Everything looks okay.

      Sounds like a tractor, and I cant build any boost now... just gets louder until 0psi.


      Where the heck do I even start. is my turbo fried....
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

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      08-11-2012 02:43 PM #93
      Check your manifold it might have a crack or be loose. Do a boost leak test..Compression test.

      Any smoke? Hows your Idle?


      Good luck, Be safe

      Alex

    24. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 02:46 PM #94
      I dont have any smoke. I will check the manifold. and do a compressiont test.
      idles very average

      No boost leaks as I did a pressure test right before putting it back together yesterday.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

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      08-11-2012 02:54 PM #95
      Is your O2 to turbo Leaking still?... I would take that gasket off..

      Aloha
      Alex

    26. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 03:00 PM #96
      Yes it is still leaking there but I think thats the least of my worries.

      something is major fubar'd here. going to start checking now.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    27. Member sabbySC's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 03:33 PM #97
      Check your wastegate.
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    28. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 03:39 PM #98
      compression is good. 170ish across all.

      Your the man sabby. Theres no bolts holding it onto the manifold anymore.

      How does that even happen....

      Does anyone know what size of bolts I need for there? I remember they were allen head.

      Also does anyone know a good way to tighten the wastegate to mani bolts with the downpipe in?
      Last edited by 20VCanuck; 08-11-2012 at 03:57 PM.
      50 trim'd up!
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      08-11-2012 05:02 PM #99
      ^Yeah pull the motor..LOL

      It is pretty easy from below I think But I did it with the motor out..

      Alex

    30. Member sabbySC's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 05:06 PM #100
      I don't remember the size of the bolt, but I did cut an allan key short, (like 1 inch long) and use a very small ratchet wrench to turn the allan key.
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    31. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 05:19 PM #101
      that is a pretty good idea. I know I can get the front one, its the rear one that is going to be trouble. I really dont feel like pulling the downpipe.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    32. Member Budsdubbin's Avatar
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      08-11-2012 09:11 PM #102
      m8 1.25 I'm almost 100% positive you can buy those studs/muts from advanced autoparts if there is even an advanced by you.
      20th Build ~9:5:1 wiseco 81mm forge pisons~IE 20mm rifle drilled H beams~Calico rod bearing~stock port AWP head matched to a IE intake manifold~hemi throttlebody~Custom downpipe/turboback~Self maestro tuned~tial 38mm wastegate~GT3076r .63ar Vband~6 puck Clutchnet~PTE600~USRT 1000cc gen2's~044 IE surge assembly~IE fuelrail~fuelab adjustable FPR

    33. Member 20VCanuck's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 02:31 AM #103
      Thanks for the bolt size! No advanced around here in canada, at least not in my part.

      Its just a straight bolt into the manifold. I think if I can get one with a regular head insted of an allen key it will make install easier.
      50 trim'd up!
      http://ctsturbo.com-/thread

    34. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 10:37 AM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by Budsdubbin View Post
      m8 1.25 I'm almost 100% positive you can buy those studs/muts from advanced autoparts if there is even an advanced by you.
      they are m8 x 1.25 thread pitch not sure how long, i think mine are 25mm long

      also i buy them from advanced auto parts sux, op doesnt have one nearby in canada lol
      Last edited by Big_Tom; 08-12-2012 at 10:40 AM.
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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      08-12-2012 01:32 PM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by 20VCanuck View Post
      Thanks for the bolt size! No advanced around here in canada, at least not in my part.

      Its just a straight bolt into the manifold. I think if I can get one with a regular head insted of an allen key it will make install easier.
      Juts go to your local Lordco, Napa, Acklands, Fastenall etc. Just make sure that you buy a high quality bolt. Do NOT buy Stainless bolts or studs. Thye stretch when exposed to high heat. Do NOT use split lock washers, they lose their tension under heat.

      DO use Nordlok washers or Red Loctite StudLock. You are best off using grade 8 Black oxide studs or high grade Japanese exhaust studs ( Grade 9+ with Cad plating ) secured with Red Loctite. Then use " Jet " Nuts ( ovalized nuts ) on the studs. Either Copper or steel. gain..no Stainless Steel and obviously no NyLock nuts

      Lordco or any decent automotive supplier ( Not Canadian Tire ) should have them.

      Edit: M8 x 1.25mm is a very common Japanese size. Most Japanese dealerships, such as Nissan, Toyota and Honda, have a supply chest full of common fasteners for their shop. They normally have a vast selection of all types of fasteners in various grades.

      Bowman Industries supplies most of the dealers here...and they have excellent products. The BowMalloy grade 8 fasteners are top quality.

      Check out a local Nissan dealership. Most of them also carry Grade 8 and higher studs . They've got some pretty scookum studs for their Turbo exhaust manifolds. Most of the Nissan dealerships are supplied by Bowman as well for their " common stock "
      Last edited by Chickenman35; 08-12-2012 at 01:53 PM.
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