fuel pump pricing issue

[caldini]

I just replaced my fuel pump about a month ago. My car was running fine until one day i went to start it and it did it didn't start. It was like it wasn't getting any spark or fuel, but if i turned the ignition off and tried to start it again it would fire right up. Every morning was the same thing it wouldn't start on the first crank but if i shut it off and tried again it would start. Now i try to start it and it won't start at all and neither fuel pumps will stop priming with the ignition in the on position. All help is greatly appreciated.

[Fat Rabbit]

Replace the fuel pump relay and see if that fixes the issue. If you have a Digifant car the relay is well under $10 on line. I wouldn't pay over $4 or $5 at a junkyard for one. FR

[caldini]

I replaced it and it still has the problem

[AnAgentOrange]

Is this car Digi or CIS? Check the ground wires that go go the coolant flange, and also the wire from the injectors to the ECM. Make sure it's not shorted to ground. Also, where did you get that relay?

[caldini]

Its a digi2 car and i got the relay from automated international

[caldini]

Auto parts international and will thoughs two things short out the fuel pump. Has anyone encountered this problem before?

[caldini]

I am puzzled and any help will be appreciated

[WaterWheels]

. . . My car was running fine until one day i went to start it and it did it didn't start. It was like it wasn't getting any spark or fuel, but if i turned the ignition off and tried to start it again it would fire right up. Every morning was the same thing it wouldn't start on the first crank but if i shut it off and tried again it would start. Now i try to start it and it won't start at all and neither fuel pumps will stop priming with the ignition in the on position. . .

Digifant II which would put it at say 22 years old or more. Makes it a good candidate for a failing ignition switch if it's original. When they begin to go bad they can act in a few different ways, one of which is what is happening with your car. Is it bad? I can't say from here but it sounds like a real good possibility. It is real easy to by-pass the switch to check and see or just get a new one as they are rather cheap and easy to swap out.

[Fat Rabbit]

I'd have to second the ignition switch at this point. Less than $10 on line. Much more at most stores. FR

[caldini]

Could it be the ignition switch if i have spark?

[caldini]

And would a bad switch cause both pumps to continue running with just the ignition on

[caldini]

What if the ground to the back right of the engine is disconnected

[Guidofester]

I just replaced my fuel pump about a month ago. My car was running fine until one day i went to start it and it did it didn't start. It was like it wasn't getting any spark or fuel, but if i turned the ignition off and tried to start it again it would fire right up. Every morning was the same thing it wouldn't start on the first crank but if i shut it off and tried again it would start. Now i try to start it and it won't start at all and neither fuel pumps will stop priming with the ignition in the on position. All help is greatly appreciated.

This post sucks. Very limited information. In order to help you people need to know what you are talking about. So it's an 8V! CIS CIS-E Digifant, Mass airflow. Wonder what type of car you are talking about. A1 A2 A3 A4?

Post your year make and model in your topic.. I"m all for trying to help people fix cars over the internet but come on. Give us some information. It might be help full if you post up your location, you never know some one maybe in your area that can help.

[AnAgentOrange]

This post sucks. Very limited information. In order to help you people need to know what you are talking about. So it's an 8V! CIS CIS-E Digifant, Mass airflow. Wonder what type of car you are talking about. A1 A2 A3 A4?

Post your year make and model in your topic.. I"m all for trying to help people fix cars over the internet but come on. Give us some information. It might be help full if you post up your location, you never know some one maybe in your area that can help.

One of my biggest peeves is lack of location under people's avatar

[caldini]

You know what? You gurus are such *******s instead of posting useless info and wasting page space, why don't you dudes post something helpful. The only reason we noobs and aspiring mechanics even post **** is to ask for your assistance. Its not only my post, but i looked at numerous posts and i see the gurus talking **** to the noobs like they're suppose to know everything. The car is a damn mk2 Volkswagen jetta 1.8l 8v digifant 2 and it won't start, it has spark and fuel, but when i turn the ignition to the on position the fuel pumps will not stop running when they're only suppose to prime for about three seconds. By the way, its a 1992 and if you smug sons of bitches have never encountered this problem, you should be ashamed to call yourselves gurus.

[caldini]

Thank you to everyone that has been helpful btw.

[AnAgentOrange]

With the key on and the pumps running, wiggle the key around and see if you can get them to cut off. Also try smacking the steering column near the ignition. My gut is telling me that switch might be toast

[Fat Rabbit]

Which fuel pump did you replace? As you know -- your car has two fuel pumps.

If the in-tank pump has a leaky rubber bushing where it mounts to the gauge sender assembly it will pump until the cows come home and will not shut down. It also will not send fuel (or will not send as much fuel as normal) to the main pump. If the in-tank pump is not working then a no or limited fuel condition at the main pump will also exist and the pump will continue to run. You can flow test the in-tank pump to see if it is pumping OK.

In-tank pumps tend to cause more problems than main pumps. Especially in hot weather. Intermittant running is a failure mode of in-tank pumps. I always keep at least 1/4 tank of fuel in my car so that the in-tank pump will be cooled by the fuel. After the initial investment it is no more expensive to keep 1/4 of a tank at all times than it is to run the car until it is running on fumes before adding gas. A bad transfer pump will also cause a main pump to fail. So if you replaced the main pump perhaps it failed because the in-tank pump was getting old and lazy (I'm an expert on old and lazy.) FR

[caldini]

Btw both fuel pumps work fine. I have spark but its an orange color which means its weak, but it should still do something, right? I was checking for big vaccum leaks but found none. I made sure that all of my grounds were in good shape and they were. It cranks but no combustion what so ever. I didnt get a chance to change the ignition switch because i need a certain puller that i cant find. If its not my ignition switch im starting to think my injectors arent squirting or it could be my ecu. Im a little stumped. Could my injectors wires be acting up?? I just dont know why both of them keep runnin with ignition on. Some more ideas please and does anyone know where i can find a puller for my steering column too. Thank you.

[Fat Rabbit]

You don't need a puller for your steering column. I'll send you a PM on how to remove the ignition switch.

You should check your fuel pressure. It is a fast test -- on Digifant you can use about any fuel pressure tester. -- there is a fuel barb at the transmission end of the fuel rail. There is a small screw that needs to be removed and a fuel line clamped on the end. You should be able to borrow or rent a fuel pressure tester from a parts store. (Harbor Freight sells one for about $20.)

You since you don't think that your injectors are working you should test the power to them. You need an LED test light (less than $10). Disconnect the plug to the fuel rail electrical and place the test light across the wires. Have a friend try to start the car whilke you watch the test light blink. It blinks rapidly and is best watched in a darkened area. No blink -- reverse the leads andf try again. LED test lights are polarized -- they only work when connected a certain way. Still no blink -- suspect the ECU -- the car's computer. Check to see that the several grounds that attach to the cylinder head (transmission end) are in place and have clean contact. Those ground wires need to be in place and making good ground otherise the ECU will be ruined. FR

[caldini]

It turned out to be the ignition switch after all. Thanks for all of the help guys, it was much appreciated.

[WaterWheels]

You know what? You gurus are such *******s instead of posting useless info and wasting page space, why don't you dudes post something helpful. The only reason we noobs and aspiring mechanics even post **** is to ask for your assistance. . . . and if you smug sons of bitches have never encountered this problem, you should be ashamed to call yourselves gurus.

First I believe someone should be saying some thing like "I'm sorry" to a few member above, no?
Second, you are the one who is calling the above people "gurus", they didn't state anything about being one or the original topic states nothing about asking for help from one, no? Stay away from booze and drugs until you can pull yourself together a little, OK.