Mk6 GTI gear lockout question and TSI engine strength

[hooptie-gti]

I was driving home one night when I attempted to go from 5th to 4th at 50 mph or so. Instead, I hit 2nd and reved the engine past 8k for less than one second. Scared the living crap out of me but I thought all was well. I continued to drive but thats when the engine began to hesitate, "click", and the check engine light would go on, flash and then go off. I took it to the dealer and they said that due to an "over-rev" code the repair would not be covered under warranty. My car has less than 7k miles on it, and they gave me a quote for $8500.
There is no way I am going to pay for a repair like that when the engine hasnt even been taken apart by the dealer to find out whats actually wrong. What is everyone input on what could be wrong. Any input about warranty, financial assistance, engine, or possible trans damage is appreciated. My friend did the exact same thing about two weeks later, he cleared his codes and they are covering his.

Just looking for input, is there a lockout for 2nd gear?? I have felt it while slowing down but for some reason it didnt seem to do anything that day. It gave me NO issues getting into second. Usually a trans will grind, pop back out, or give you a hard time getting into gear. NOTHING! Im confused and just need info to helpmy case.

Thanks All!!

[Scrubbs]

There is no "lock out" per say, gear speeds need to be close before they will engage SMOOTHLY, but you can always force them.
As far as the warranty issue, you probably should have checked the codes first and then decided. As much as i hate to say it, you could try another dealer, with out mentioning the other dealer. Only reason i say this is because they havent diagnosed it. just read a code. BUT be ready to eat the bill for teardown if they figure it out as not a defect. But then there is your insurance company, and a comprehensive claim. Good luck with everything. let us know the results.

[hooptie-gti]

There is no "lock out" per say, gear speeds need to be close before they will engage SMOOTHLY, but you can always force them.
As far as the warranty issue, you probably should have checked the codes first and then decided. As much as i hate to say it, you could try another dealer, with out mentioning the other dealer. Only reason i say this is because they havent diagnosed it. just read a code. BUT be ready to eat the bill for teardown if they figure it out as not a defect. But then there is your insurance company, and a comprehensive claim. Good luck with everything. let us know the results.

Thanks for the info. The dealership has already "sent the codes to VW to have the repair approved" is what I was told by the service rep. Obviously, it was declined and I assume it is tied to my VIN number. I tried contacting my insurance, but they do not cover mechanical failure.. I am going to go over my warranty with a nice tooth comb and hope that I will be able to find some type of loophole. So if I would have cleared my codes before bringing it in, you're saying they would have more than likely covered it?

And for some reason, I do not remember having to "force" the stick in 2nd, seemed like it engaged very easily. My friend said the same when I asked him if it gave him any problems getting into 2nd. He said no, it felt as though he was in 4th and he has been driving stick a lot longer than I have. What would allow this to happen? if the cables in the trans are slightly messed up would this cause the trans to engage smoothly in any gear?

And i will definitely keep you guys updated! We are going to meet with the dealership again to see what they can do, if they refuse to help, we will have to pull in the VW rep and talk to him/her. If that doesnt work, we will go higher and higher until someone will help me. I asked about purchasing a used engine and they said it would VOID my warranty completely. I am just looking for a cheaper repair or way out. How do they know the entire engine needs replaced without taking it apart. And whos to say, if we DO buy a new engine if there isnt trans damage as well... that could be a repair in excess of $11,000. A little less than half of what I paid for the car!!!

[kyle_b]

Vw warranty doesnt cover accidents. You made a mistake, there was nothing wrong with your car. Same thing happened to a car i fixed. Guys girlfriend money shifted his gti with about 15k on it. Faults stored had a recorded engine speed of about 9500 rpm. Dealer quoted about 8k to fix. I pulled the head, had all the valve guides replaced, new valve seals and replaced 3 bent valves.

[Scrubbs]

Yeah if its gone that far your kinda locked into it. But you need to find out what is wrong with the engine, By just saying it needs a new engine and charging you $8500 is kinda a bull**** practice. Either way, be polite, and courteous, no cussing, dont know your age but bring and adult with you, At least as a witness. As far as the trans engageing the wrong gear, its like puting a stick in a picket fence, easily when standing still, hard the faster you run beside it, but if you do it just right it will go in.
Reguarding clearing the code...Yeah, it probably would have been repaired o problems.
I wish you luck with the VW rep. He/she ultimatly makes the call anyway.
Also, verify WHAT IS VOID, they cant void the whole car, just the engine and possibly the trans. unless they have changed the wording.
My recomendation is take it to a reputable outside shop and have them do the teardown. and find the cause for the CeL flashing. Probably just valves and valve train components.,like Kyle suggested.


Also , might want to discuss why you were able to downshift so "easily" in to 2nd from 5th. if you take the trans as the cause of the overev. its a shot , not a good one , but its something.

[hooptie-gti]

Yeah if its gone that far your kinda locked into it. But you need to find out what is wrong with the engine, By just saying it needs a new engine and charging you $8500 is kinda a bull**** practice. Either way, be polite, and courteous, no cussing, dont know your age but bring and adult with you, At least as a witness. As far as the trans engageing the wrong gear, its like puting a stick in a picket fence, easily when standing still, hard the faster you run beside it, but if you do it just right it will go in.
Reguarding clearing the code...Yeah, it probably would have been repaired o problems.
I wish you luck with the VW rep. He/she ultimatly makes the call anyway.
Also, verify WHAT IS VOID, they cant void the whole car, just the engine and possibly the trans. unless they have changed the wording.
My recomendation is take it to a reputable outside shop and have them do the teardown. and find the cause for the CeL flashing. Probably just valves and valve train components.,like Kyle suggested.


Also , might want to discuss why you were able to downshift so "easily" in to 2nd from 5th. if you take the trans as the cause of the overev. its a shot , not a good one , but its something.

so just to keep you guys updated.. My very kind and thoughtful uncle walked into the dealership, told them all to go eff themselves, and had them order me a new engine and clutch.. the final price they gave him was $7200.. I have a lot of ass kissing to do with him now, he is saving me a ton of fighting and stress.. couldnt ask for a better uncle!! anywho, thought I needed to aknowledge him for what he has done..

Second, i will be recieving the "blown" motor correct, since I purchased the car with a motor and now he has purchased another one.. I am going to make sure I get the engine when the repair is completed.. The ECU recorded a 9100k rpm as i have said before. I am sure the pistons, rods, and bottom end is fine. I think I will just need a new head and valves.. How much is a "blown" tsi motor worth with less than 7k miles on it? I am not sure if i should fix it, then sell it or just sell it "blown." I am obviously going to want the more profitable option since i will be using the money to try and pay him back asap! please let me know how much this is worth in current and rebuilt condition.. or where i could find this info..

now it is just going to be the waiting game until my car is fixed.. and also the clutch should be fine too, correct? depepnding on how much friction it took, I would be able to sell that as well?

[Scrubbs]

Did you find out what was wrong with it first? Pistons can get hit on top and do damage to the rings and bores. Rods can get bent. Bearings can get smashed. Cams can deform cam caps when the valves bend. Best to dissassemble and assess the damage first. Usually you can get away with valves and headwork.

[hooptie-gti]

Did you find out what was wrong with it first? Pistons can get hit on top and do damage to the rings and bores. Rods can get bent. Bearings can get smashed. Cams can deform cam caps when the valves bend. Best to dissassemble and assess the damage first. Usually you can get away with valves and headwork.

I recieved the diagnosis from the dealership today and all it says is:

-several rocker arms broke
-hydra. lifters missing
-camshafts scored

[Scrubbs]

Hw much was the diag? 10 dollars? Hly hell, you must have pissed them off good. lol! If you paid for the diag, you should get a diagnostic. Tats kindergarden ****. Is the manager/owner aware of the diagnotic info you recieved? It should be detailed. Have it double checked. And plan on a new head and cams. Also have the pan removed and cleaned, search for the missing lifter.... Or just get a long block. i wouldnt use that dealer again though, sounds like you arent a prefered customer. Also it it might be interesting to validate their "diag". Have the pistons checked, if they are damaged and you paid to have them looked at, and its not listed, someone didnt do their job.

[Scrubbs]

As far as getting the old motor back after you pay for a new oen, you will have to pay the core charge. they can be pricey depending on how bad VW needs cores.

[hooptie-gti]

Hw much was the diag? 10 dollars? Hly hell, you must have pissed them off good. lol! If you paid for the diag, you should get a diagnostic. Tats kindergarden ****. Is the manager/owner aware of the diagnotic info you recieved? It should be detailed. Have it double checked. And plan on a new head and cams. Also have the pan removed and cleaned, search for the missing lifter.... Or just get a long block. i wouldnt use that dealer again though, sounds like you arent a prefered customer. Also it it might be interesting to validate their "diag". Have the pistons checked, if they are damaged and you paid to have them looked at, and its not listed, someone didnt do their job.

HAHA!! Luckily, I didn't pay for the diagnosis, it is just what they listed on the invoice when my uncle went in and had them purchase the new engine. It doesnt say a whole lot I know, but I was hoping it was enough to get a reapir estimate. I have no idea how much a head assembly is and for some reason I can't find any online ANYWHERE! I dont know if I am searching the wrong thing or what! I googled mk6 gti head assembly but nothing..
And just for future reference, I am changing my servicing dealer! lol

[hooptie-gti]

As far as getting the old motor back after you pay for a new oen, you will have to pay the core charge. they can be pricey depending on how bad VW needs cores.

So your trying to tell me that I need to pay to get **MY** engine back? It was in "my" car, you think I would be able to take it. I am not paying a core charge, they can suck you know what... This is gonna be ugly... Im sick of the BS that comes with this car..

[Scrubbs]

No, you pay to not require a core on your replacement motor. Ive seen $1500 cores on some motors. they refund it when you return the CORE. Check on it quietly, they may miss it. Your motor is yours. unless you turn it in for a core, and since there is no warranty on it, its not needed for waranty turn in. But hopefully the total price they gave you is for the motor. (new and not reman) Remanufactured units want a core and add that to the cost of the unit. Remans usually have an X in the last part of the part number.

[hooptie-gti]

No, you pay to not require a core on your replacement motor. Ive seen $1500 cores on some motors. they refund it when you return the CORE. Check on it quietly, they may miss it. Your motor is yours. unless you turn it in for a core, and since there is no warranty on it, its not needed for waranty turn in. But hopefully the total price they gave you is for the motor. (new and not reman) Remanufactured units want a core and add that to the cost of the unit. Remans usually have an X in the last part of the part number.

There was a $1600 core charge on my motor. Therefore, I guess they are using a remanufactured engine. I hear they are just as good as the new ones, no difference. I should have my car back this week and cant wait!! It has been almost a month now and I am dying to drive it again.
There are all kinds of car parts laying around my house waiting to be put on the car as soon as I get it back... The wait it almost over!!! YAHOOO!!!