lots of timing pull around 4700 rpms and thats exactly when I go from 20psi to 10psi

[Anony00GT]

You got lucky. Had they peeked under the car and seen the spacer, you'd have gotten a big red REJECTED sticker.

Doesn't change the fact that the spacer is going to mess with your A/F ratio.

[jason bouchard]

the spacer is in the secondary o2 which is all the way down after the cat. . also NJ does not do visual inspections just emissions

[jason bouchard]

okay we are getting way pff topic I just need help in making my car run better . . so lets just keep it to that please

[Anony00GT]

the spacer is in the secondary o2 which is all the way down after the cat. . also NJ does not do visual inspections just emissions

Yes I know exactly how NJ inspection works

Start by fixing the O2 problems so the ECU can properly calculate A/F.

Then verify no vacuum/boost leaks.

[jason bouchard]

okay fair enough, I'm gonna get that rear O2 in

[jason bouchard]

I still want jack to chime in on if these are the correct groups to log

I am going to do a O2 change, fuel filter change and compression check tomorrow

[Jack@European Parts]

What does this doooooooooo?

"Jason, It sucks in air."
"Helga, its definitely sucking!"


Ok post a picture of this CAT/dumb pipe.
Vendor/manufacture with CARB smog certification?

I can tell if its a good one.

A CAT which is actually bigger in flow, and more then adequate rare metals, is about twice the cost of the OEM unit, @ about 2K USD. Most that are sold by INTERNET ghouls are a POS.

Just look at how scrap value is calculated for CAT's if you don't believe me. They use pictures too for those who can't read.

I believe in making the car more fun, it has to be right though.

Spacers and all this stupid stuff are clearly, EPA, and most states DMV Illegal.

First get it to run right stock, then move to mods which are clean and fun.

Cheap AFT China crap parts will only net you last place at most events.

Brian is correct.

What is your real goal here and from your car?

Detonation is caused by a multiple level of combinations, or conditions.
Lets start with basics below to get started.

Fuel quality?
Plug range heat?
False air/Vacuum leaks/ Booster isolation?
Base timing and settings/compression/valves not carbonized or burned?
MAF clarity and Air cleaner?
Fuel injectors size and volume tests?
FP?
Fuel Volume?
Restrictions?
Ground conditions?
Boost range selected? Target vs actual WG and N75 duty cycle. MAP sensor/IAT
Coolant temp and ECT?
ECU not in limp or restructured map due to DTC?
ETC!!!!!!

[jason bouchard]

Fuel quality? 93 oct shell
Plug range heat? Stock OEM plugs
False air/Vacuum leaks/ Booster isolation?
Base timing and settings/compression/valves not carbonized or burned? settings OEM not sure if valves are burned or carbonized
MAF clarity and Air cleaner? MAF has been cleaned and check vs other oem one
Fuel injectors size and volume tests? fuel injectors are OEM and Stock
FP? stock 3 bar but I have a 4bar available
Fuel Volume?
Restrictions?
Ground conditions? stock not upgraded
Boost range selected? Target vs actual WG and N75 duty cycle. MAP sensor/IAT
Coolant temp and ECT?
ECU not in limp or restructured map due to DTC?
ETC!!!!!!

what loggs do you want me to run I'm really trying here I have the car back to stock the best I can everything is stock except downpipe with highflow cat which I cant really change
I bought the 350$ vagcom after being haggled on this forum for not having it so tell me what groups you would like to see if understand how I am running, hell I'll bring the damn car to whom ever if you are reasonably close and wont charge me an arm and a leg to fix it

[Jack@European Parts]

Stick the 4 bar FPR in and then measure blocks

0x01-08-020 AND 115 PLEASE DURING A FULL THROTTLE LINEAR PULL.

Post the data here not in a link.

That should make a considerable difference.

Consider a colder heat range plug such as FR6DTC or FR6DSR form Bosch.

Take the intake off and inspect for leaky injectors or carbon build up.

Logs don't solve problems just help determine them. Your concern is detonation so lets concentrate on that.

Did you fix the OXS issue?
Are you close to me in NY, I would have a look?

[jason bouchard]

[QUOTE=Jack@European Parts;78340530]Stick the 4 bar FPR in and then measure blocks

0x01-08-020 AND 115 PLEASE DURING A FULL THROTTLE LINEAR PULL.


So log groups 8, 20 and 115 ? and do a full pull in one gear like 3rd or a full pull with multi gears ? I am going to do the logs with the 3 bar first now the OXS is fixed, then do them again with the 4 bar for diffrences

Consider a colder heat range plug such as FR6DTC or FR6DSR form Bosch.
I have the stock NGK plug( direct bought from audi of princeton 53$) in there now I might switch to a colder plug but on a stock tune I shouldnt need to unless something is wrong

Take the intake off and inspect for leaky injectors or carbon build up.
How do I do that ? I know how to take off the intake but inspect it how ? and how do I check for leaky injectors or carbon buildup ?

Did you fix the OXS issue?
Yes new rear OXS and not CEL yet, I will be doing those logs along with the other Groups you wanted me to do yesterday
Are you close to me in NY, I would have a look?
I'm in central NJ near Princeton nj But depending on where in NY I might drive up

Thanks for your help

[Jack@European Parts]

Just 020 and 115

0x01-08 stands for blocks.

I'm in Montgomery NY near OCC.

Very close to I84 and I87. Between Newburgh the arm pit of the world and Middletown.

How about readiness tests?

Time to RTFB my friend.

Post the log difference.

[jason bouchard]

well no cels now but when i first start the car when its completely cold the secondary air pump thing is blowing air in the front of the vehicle and its over boosting(might be because of the downpipe)

the overheating has stopped too and theres just something wrong with it running lean/ timing pull/ rich all at different times so I probably have a vac/boost leak somewhere