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Thread: What do I need to run 1600 rms?

  1. 07-23-2012 10:54 PM #36
    Quote Originally Posted by BassNotes View Post
    And yours weren't?
    i already said they were off...examples. but they werent numbers that would never show up during normal usage. just pointing out that a fuse shouldnt blow with tbe numbers you provided, according to the site.
    Last edited by hollywood084; 07-24-2012 at 08:10 AM.

  2. 07-24-2012 12:23 AM #37
    jesus christ!

    look, amp makers put fuses on their gear to protect their products. therefore, an amp will have a conservative value fuse to protect the amp from blowing. so how much current does your amp draw? how many amps can the fuse hold before it blows?

    done. that's your draw. that multiplied by your alt's output voltage is NOT your RMS. at best a car audio amp is 90% efficient.

    NFrazier, stop posting. you're misleading people and giving people the opposite of what they're here for.

  3. Member NFrazier's Avatar
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    07-24-2012 02:17 AM #38
    Quote Originally Posted by RonPopeil View Post
    jesus christ!

    look, amp makers put fuses on their gear to protect their products. therefore, an amp will have a conservative value fuse to protect the amp from blowing. so how much current does your amp draw? how many amps can the fuse hold before it blows?

    done. that's your draw. that multiplied by your alt's output voltage is NOT your RMS. at best a car audio amp is 90% efficient.

    NFrazier, stop posting. you're misleading people and giving people the opposite of what they're here for.
    I'm all set thanks. I've helped out quite a few people on the forum with the TRUTH. Thanks for your concern though.

    Nothing I have said is in any way misleading. Now you on the other hand, that's a different story.

    You're right though. Just look at the fuses, that will be your current draw.

    You're statements are scattered at best. You do know how ohm's law works right? It's all relative. You can't say that the actual power output of the amplifier has no correlation to the current it's going to draw...
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  4. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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    07-24-2012 10:46 AM #39
    Quote Originally Posted by hollywood084 View Post
    i already said they were off...examples. but they werent numbers that would never show up during normal usage. just pointing out that a fuse shouldnt blow with tbe numbers you provided, according to the site.
    I think maybe you'd better read up on what fuses do and how they work.
    Bob Lee
    2002 GTI 1.8t 231,000+ miles
    VCDS 11.11.5 with KEY-USB interface

  5. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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    07-24-2012 10:53 AM #40
    Quote Originally Posted by RonPopeil View Post
    jesus christ!

    look, amp makers put fuses on their gear to protect their products. therefore, an amp will have a conservative value fuse to protect the amp from blowing. so how much current does your amp draw? how many amps can the fuse hold before it blows?

    done. that's your draw. that multiplied by your alt's output voltage is NOT your RMS. at best a car audio amp is 90% efficient.

    NFrazier, stop posting. you're misleading people and giving people the opposite of what they're here for.
    Fuse rating <> draw.

    True that draw * Valt is not "RMS". But Valt (sorry, apparently we can't do subscripts) is a constant, so what remains to be determined is the current draw.

    "RMS" is actually a method of measuring AC voltage or current--not power.
    Bob Lee
    2002 GTI 1.8t 231,000+ miles
    VCDS 11.11.5 with KEY-USB interface

  6. 07-24-2012 11:00 AM #41
    sw
    Quote Originally Posted by BassNotes View Post
    I think maybe you'd better read up on what fuses do and how they work.
    I already have. I was the one who linked the site. I didnt even bring up fuses. I dont even remember the point i was tryiing to make anymore :/. Maybe the point i was trying to make was not very clear. Or maybe i just misunderstood the guys post when he brought up the fuses. I dont even know what you all think i am implying anymore. You just keep tellng me to read about fuses, and all i did was tell someone else to, mainly because it was a great, informational site...

    But regardless of whatever i was trying to say, this ongoing nonsense of who is right and wrong, when bcae1.com ends all arguments, obviously isnt about the OP anymore, so its just wasting space.
    Last edited by hollywood084; 07-24-2012 at 11:08 AM.

  7. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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    07-24-2012 01:30 PM #42
    Quote Originally Posted by NFrazier View Post
    The wire may look like 4 gauge, but the amount of copper, never mind oxygen free copper, is less than full spec 4awg.
    I'd expect that it's a metric wire size; 16 mm^2 (7 strands) would be 31580 circular mils, slightly smaller than 5 AWG, and the next standard size larger, 25 mm^2 (7 or 19 strands), would be 49340 circular mils, a bit larger than 4 AWG.
    Bob Lee
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    VCDS 11.11.5 with KEY-USB interface

  8. 07-24-2012 03:00 PM #43
    Quote Originally Posted by NFrazier View Post
    I'm all set thanks. I've helped out quite a few people on the forum with the TRUTH. Thanks for your concern though.

    Nothing I have said is in any way misleading. Now you on the other hand, that's a different story.

    You're right though. Just look at the fuses, that will be your current draw.

    You're statements are scattered at best. You do know how ohm's law works right? It's all relative. You can't say that the actual power output of the amplifier has no correlation to the current it's going to draw...


    OP: I want to add over 100 amps of draw to my car and i'm worried about my lights dimming
    NFrazier: just upgrade a couple grounds and a power wire off your alt.

  9. Member therockdrummer's Avatar
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    07-24-2012 03:58 PM #44
    Thanks for everyones input.

    I have it all installed and I have absolutely no problems with the lights dimming whatsoever.



    This thread is why I hate car audio forums. Can't we just listen to the music?

  10. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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    07-24-2012 04:10 PM #45
    Quote Originally Posted by RonPopeil View Post


    OP: I want to add over 100 amps of draw to my car and i'm worried about my lights dimming
    NFrazier: just upgrade a couple grounds and a power wire off your alt.
    Over 100 amps? You must be thinking of another OP.
    Bob Lee
    2002 GTI 1.8t 231,000+ miles
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  11. Member NFrazier's Avatar
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    07-24-2012 08:17 PM #46
    Quote Originally Posted by therockdrummer View Post
    Thanks for everyones input.

    I have it all installed and I have absolutely no problems with the lights dimming whatsoever.



    This thread is why I hate car audio forums. Can't we just listen to the music?
    That's impossible! According to the other two (not myself and BassNotes) you need a H.O. alternator....be careful your car will explode soon.
    12v Installation Services: Audio, Alarms/Remote Starts, OEM Integration, etc.
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  12. 07-24-2012 09:08 PM #47
    Quote Originally Posted by therockdrummer View Post
    Thanks for everyones input.

    I have it all installed and I have absolutely no problems with the lights dimming whatsoever.



    This thread is why I hate car audio forums. Can't we just listen to the music?
    Nice

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