Suggestions for a Golf R?

[Pseudo Nim]

Hi everyone,

Looks like I pulled the trigger on a Golf R... Looking for some suggestions on what to do with the engine. Not looking to create a beast - thinking of putting an upgraded fuel pump and an APR tune. Would/must I do anything else? Downpipes etc? Or not needed?

Thanks!

[sfdxsm]

If you're going to spend the money on the fuel pump, you may as well get the intake as well and do APR's Stage 1+. Otherwise I would save the cash on the fuel pump and just do a stage 1 flash if you're looking to keep it from being a beast.

Suggestive though per owner.

[Pseudo Nim]

If you're going to spend the money on the fuel pump, you may as well get the intake as well and do APR's Stage 1+. Otherwise I would save the cash on the fuel pump and just do a stage 1 flash if you're looking to keep it from being a beast.

Suggestive though per owner.

Understood. Which intake - the Carbonio CAI or the VWR? The VWR seems to be double the price, I am optimistic I don't really need that. I guess to get to stage 1+ would be in the order of $500 for the tune, $250 for the intake and $500-$900 for the fuel pump depending on whether one is rebuilt or purchased, right?

Curious: when rebuilt, is it dealer-detectable or is it totally inside the pump so warranty still applies if anything? I.e., if warranty work is to be done, is it better to have the original available or does it not matter?

[sh{}e]

The Golf R uses the old FSI motor found in the TTS and S3.

[sfdxsm]

Understood. Which intake - the Carbonio CAI or the VWR? The VWR seems to be double the price, I am optimistic I don't really need that. I guess to get to stage 1+ would be in the order of $500 for the tune, $250 for the intake and $500-$900 for the fuel pump depending on whether one is rebuilt or purchased, right?

Curious: when rebuilt, is it dealer-detectable or is it totally inside the pump so warranty still applies if anything? I.e., if warranty work is to be done, is it better to have the original available or does it not matter?

I don't believe the fuel pump is detectable however the intake will be the first thing they may balk at. The second one would be the chip. I am not sure if you've seen the TD1 campaign going on but essentially VW/Audi have been flagging cars that are chipped as soon as they hit the computer. So if you are worried about warranty work the chip is the biggest issue.

I just had warranty work done and I am chipped. I didn't get flagged but some people have (with APR and other tunes). The guy also told me up front if it's chipped they can't stop Audi from getting the car flagged - basically giving me a warning/chance to back out of the work I wanted done.

It's hit or miss right now but warranty wise, chip is your biggest issue unless the fuel pump fails and takes something out.

As for intakes, I would follow up with APR's since it is cheaper.

[Krieger]

tune, intake, DP, water/meth injection, call it a day.

you would have a little monster!

[Pseudo Nim]

tune, intake, DP, water/meth injection, call it a day.

you would have a little monster!

Ok, meth might be a touch overboard, but DP w/o exhaust is doable? That'd be good, as I don't want to swap the exhaust for no reason.

[Krieger]

trust me, meth is the best thing since boost.

sub ambient temps, steam cleaned motor, and running higher octane tunes on lower octane gas...

not only that, but theoretically, when the water expands as it changes from a liquid to a gas, it will force the piston to work harder to compress the much cooler, denser and now even higher pressured charge air, thus making the downward stroke that much more powerful. imagine a poor man's steam engine, if you would.

[sh{}e]

trust me, meth is the best thing since boost.

sub ambient temps, steam cleaned motor, and running higher octane tunes on lower octane gas...

not only that, but theoretically, when the water expands as it changes from a liquid to a gas, it will force the piston to work harder to compress the much cooler, denser and now even higher pressured charge air, thus making the downward stroke that much more powerful. imagine a poor man's steam engine, if you would.

What are you referring to as sub-ambient temps?

Initially, W/M injection first reduces pressure because the water absorbs the heat but then increase pressure after the combustion process when it vaporizes. It is a great setup when it is done correctly, and more harm can be done to the car with an improper W/M kit.

[Krieger]

it was around 90F during these pulls, almost no pause between pulls.

I honestly thought sub ambient temperatures would be pretty self explanatory...

At no time does it decrease pressure in the manifold or cylinder... the oposite actually... it absorbs the heat by phase changing as well as getting warmer... but once it enters the combustion chamber, it phase changes to steam and expands, thus increasing pressure... this is why cars running a ton of water/alcohol have to gap their plugs even tighter... too much pressure in the chamber can cause the spark to not be able to cross the gap properly.

read up, talk to some experts, like USRT, DevilsOwn, Snow, etc. It's been around for almost a century now, and there are not by any stretch of the imagination more harmful things to come from it than good, unless you expect your motor to run with a 20GPH setup or something retarded.

if you flood the motor, boo hoo, so your car stalls because the flame front was doused... turn down the system and change the nozzles out! Running higher than 51% alcohol can indeed be explosive, but its not very often you hear about intake manifold backfires.

i wish people in this community would stop with the stigma against WM injection already...

[sh{}e]

I honestly thought sub ambient temperatures would be pretty self explanatory...

I was just making sure and did not want to assume.

it was around 90F during these pulls, almost no pause between pulls.

At no time does it decrease pressure in the manifold or cylinder... the oposite actually

There are points when cylinder pressure can be lower. W/M injection can slow down the combustion process, which results in a lowered peak cylinder pressure due to temperatures inside the cylinder. The ECU has to compensate for this if temps are too low or vice versa, and there is a lot more to this than you are alluding to.

Mainly, we are talking about reducing the charged air temps, which effectively creates lowered cylinder temps when the water vaporizes.

[Krieger]

the water does cool both the incoming air, as well as temps inside the chamber, yes... but the pressure does not drop, in fact it goes up, by something like 3 times, due to water expanding as it turns to steam.

ive been reading up on it all for the better part of 2 years and I'm still just scratching the surface as to every little thing water injection can/will do for various setups.

im very tempted to tap the DV re-route port on my intake and run a verrrrryyyy small mister nozzle pre-turbo to give me a few more psi.

[sh{}e]

the water does cool both the incoming air, as well as temps inside the chamber, yes... but the pressure does not drop, in fact it goes up, by something like 3 times, due to water expanding as it turns to steam.

ive been reading up on it all for the better part of 2 years and I'm still just scratching the surface as to every little thing water injection can/will do for various setups.

im very tempted to tap the DV re-route port on my intake and run a verrrrryyyy small mister nozzle pre-turbo to give me a few more psi.

I am not arguing your point about the pressure increase from the injection. You don't understand the process if you say it is not reducing any pressure. Initially, when then water droplets "absorb" the heat they reduce the cylinder pressure. It is only during "combustion" that significant cooling and pressure are created due to the change of liquid to gas(steam). I think you are just excluding the process just before combustion

It is also important when it is being injected too. You cannot just inject it when cruising around town. It should be only sprayed with heavy engine load.

im very tempted to tap the DV re-route port on my intake and run a verrrrryyyy small mister nozzle pre-turbo to give me a few more psi.

The only that will happen here is intake temps will be lowered. At this point of injection it is the same effect as the intercooler. If you were to do this you have to make sure everything vaporizes.

[Pseudo Nim]

I don't believe the fuel pump is detectable however the intake will be the first thing they may balk at. The second one would be the chip. I am not sure if you've seen the TD1 campaign going on but essentially VW/Audi have been flagging cars that are chipped as soon as they hit the computer. So if you are worried about warranty work the chip is the biggest issue.

I just had warranty work done and I am chipped. I didn't get flagged but some people have (with APR and other tunes). The guy also told me up front if it's chipped they can't stop Audi from getting the car flagged - basically giving me a warning/chance to back out of the work I wanted done.

It's hit or miss right now but warranty wise, chip is your biggest issue unless the fuel pump fails and takes something out.

As for intakes, I would follow up with APR's since it is cheaper.

Whoops, I wasn't subscribed to my own thread for some reason

When you say chip, we're talking about the APR flash, right? Or a Unitronic? Either way - that's detectable? Wow, I'm surprised - I'm used to the likes of Cobb which pass dealer systems easily.

Curious - is a (catless) downpipe a worthwhile purchase? (especially since I wasn't planning on replacing the catback). I think I want to go to stage 1+

[rtrev2442]

if you have the funds i'd say APR stage 2

[Pseudo Nim]

if you have the funds i'd say APR stage 2

That seems to need a full TBE, which I don't think I'm ready for. I don't imagine just a downpipe would work, right?

Also it seems that the only real benefit is a wider power band - although welcome, I figure that's something I can mitigate by good planning of gears - where most of the power gains are on Stg1/1+.

[ridgemanron]

I don't believe the fuel pump is detectable however the intake will be the first thing they may balk at. The second one would be the chip. I am not sure if you've seen the TD1 campaign going on but essentially VW/Audi have been flagging cars that are chipped as soon as they hit the computer. So if you are worried about warranty work the chip is the biggest issue.

I just had warranty work done and I am chipped. I didn't get flagged but some people have (with APR and other tunes). The guy also told me up front if it's chipped they can't stop Audi from getting the car flagged - basically giving me a warning/chance to back out of the work I wanted done.

It's hit or miss right now but warranty wise, chip is your biggest issue unless the fuel pump fails and takes something out.

As for intakes, I would follow up with APR's since it is cheaper.

When I had my 2.0 Turbo Beetle 'chipped' by APR they offered me the ability to switch back
to 'stock' any time I wanted by a personal operation of my stalk. The cost was an additional $150.

[Jacenty8]

The Golf R uses the old FSI motor found in the TTS and S3.

Are you sure? On the engine cover it says TSI.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997

[soze]

Are you sure? On the engine cover it says TSI.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997

The 2012 Volkswagen Golf R does indeed throw out some heat, as well as some horsepower; 256 to be exact, from Volkswagen’s familiar 2-liter turbo-4. However, it’s not the same 2-liter found in the GTI, it’s an EA113 shared with the Audi TTS. It sports a beefed-up block and stronger connecting rods to handle the 17psi of boost coming from the BorgWarner K04 turbo. Still, it only puts out 6-more horsepower than the previous Golf R32, and torque is up by only 7 pound feet to 243.

http://www.motorweek.org/reviews/roa...swagen_golf_r/

The real TSI (CBFA/CCTA/CC?? etc.) is EA888

This thread belongs in the 2.0T FSI forum

[Pseudo Nim]

http://www.motorweek.org/reviews/roa...swagen_golf_r/

The real TSI (CBFA/CCTA/CC?? etc.) is EA888

This thread belongs in the 2.0T FSI forum

Lol. So 2.0T FSI and 2.0 TFSI are different things eh. Thanks, VW.

[sh{}e]

Wow, I'm surprised - I'm used to the likes of Cobb which pass dealer systems easily.

Nothing is undetectable. There are many things they can do to see if a car has been modified when talking about the ECU. They could take a simple hash of the original ECU and do the same thing again and compare the two hashes between the original and modified ECU. Any change will result in different checksums. There is no way around it with this method. Nothing hard to do either.