After I bought it
I put this manifold on for a little while with an Alfa tb It was nice but too much gas money
Happy trailed my ass to bama for the holidays
Ended up staying for 9 months for various reasons
And here's some pic whorin of what's been changing
Welded up 4ft tear:
Clutch went out:
New clutch kit, switching from 190 to 210mm, trans rebuild parts and lightened flywheel:
Wire wheeled all rust smoothed out bumps, dings gone
Sanding and prime commenced while waiting on
Pushrod, tb, actuator, strut mounts,and hood hinges to arrive
Car has old bilstein hds but I have a stock setup that's better condition waiting to go in
Hood, hatch rear valence next,
The bondo hackjob by the rear pass quarter is now fixed up
Enough for now.....
Last edited by scirocconaut; 10-31-2012 at 03:56 AM.
I love that Frankenstein picture, I always have a skull or skeleton in hanging in my cars because I love how the torque makes them come alive
Painted my transmisson today, I wire wheeled it and bleached it 1st coat of 500o gloss paint
2nd coat 500o temp paint:
Sanded and painted my front bumper, came out good, sun was setting
A lot of people rag on spec clutches, but I got A good stage 2 one that was only broken in by Peter
From www.thescirocco.com. Talked to Jeremy at spec clutches he's a good guy, great on customer
Service. I dropped by his place today and took the lightened flywheel and setup. It tested at 1150 lbs holding force, couldn't be better & well within spec's specs LOL
When I got home I removed my old One and I knew it was going to be black ground up powder, threw it in the trash, my new clutch/flywheel setup is 210mm, so I'm not using any of the old stuff, still waiting on a rear main seal and input shaft seal.
Saturday I'm gonna do some light bondo #2 work (only 7 small spots on the car) then primer and block sand
Last edited by scirocconaut; 07-27-2012 at 07:46 PM.
It's actually pushed inward 1mm, so is the pushrod seal you just can't tell
New input shaft seal, pushrod bushing, and pushrod seal
Last edited by scirocconaut; 07-27-2012 at 07:25 PM.
Gokraut makes them for eurosport & bfi and all they do is paint them and put logos on them to charge more
it's the fullsubframe 4 point for racing square with an x in the middle,
I bought it partially built from him with only 2 rear tabs and the rear welded together
and i finished it, the only difference mainly is I took 1 of the front tabs he made and sent me
(out of bent steel)
And used angle iron instead of hydraulic bent steel
(stronger and more material in corners of cast angle iron)
And mocked up the pieces and welded it together
Painted the grill with rust oleum bumper and trim spray paint looks brand new
Also wire wheeled and painted all the motor mount brackets and alternator brackets
Wire wheeled the hail marks underneath the paint because they were showing above
Smoothed it out with 120 grit
Wire wheeled & sanded primed hood
Body work will continue until I get all the parts in the mail to drive off
And I don't have much left as far as body work
Throwout bearing, (10$)
Clutch actuator finger,(21$)
Hood pins (10$)
Pushrod, (20$) mine is flat in the above picture,
and probably made the clutch go bad in the first place)
Transmission shifter bushings,(11$)
Rear main seal (15$)
I'm just grateful I have a carport and a work bench
I'm hoping to score a crack free 16v dash before I leave if the guy will ever answer my email
Kind of took the tranny off for a reason, not just ****s n giggles:
To replace the clutch, rear main seal and all trans seals, throwout, actuator, end cap, bushings, and pushrod
I've removed it 5 or 6 times already
it is definitely a bad pushrod
Last edited by scirocconaut; 08-04-2012 at 08:46 AM.
Just had to notch a chunk out of the bracket to allow the alternator to pivot up more
Use this as a template if you convert your 16v to non ac
Last edited by scirocconaut; 07-29-2012 at 04:30 PM.
Okay so now I need your help...how did you seat the rear main seal? My old one was leaking just a little bit (I use synthetic oil) so I decided to replace it. I must not have seated it properly as I now have a pretty decent oil leak between transaxle and block
At least the flange isn't leaking and the new oil pan is pretty.
So it will be another tear down...maybe this time I'll go ahead and paint the tranny while it is out.
My rear main seal is still taking too long to get in the mail from autohausaz
From what I read you are supposed to push it past the residual mark of the old one
I switched to synthetic without changing it first Without problems
I'm half temped to not change my old pressure plate or seal since both are not bad,
I don't have any help here, I wish I had someone to hold the crank with another wrench while I torqued the pressure plate bolts off.
If I can't get any help I'll just leave my old pressure plate and seal and do those when I get to Oregon
I do like synthetic, but honestly I feel regular castrol 20w50 does more justice on the cams and lifters
Noise With less seepage, no matter what even if you use all new gaskets (I have all new gaskets windage tray and vc, except rear main seal) the synthetic will leak even if slightly, but that slight leakage will continue until you have some grime,
I've been using synthetic since February and it definitely has leaked some but not enough to warrant topping off at any time,
Also the oil is so damn clean it makes checking the oil level kind of hard
Alternator finally in and bracket worked out well,
We will see how it does when I get the trans back on and the car running
I actually already know that, learned it from brokevw
I need a damn cheater bar someone must have torqued them with an airhammer
That and all my 17mm sockets are deep well and I don't want to strip the bolt heads
What the roof looks like now
Last edited by scirocconaut; 07-29-2012 at 10:46 PM.
Painted New hood hinges that came in the mail, put the clutch and flywheel on,
cleaned the gunk out of the 5th housing and put the new throwout bearing in
Still waiting on a pushrod to arrive from autohausaz (17$)
And then the trans will go back on
And need to put hood pins on
Waiting on a friend with a rivet gun
Your project looks similar to mine.
I've been slowly piecing together my build for the last couple of years.
Keep up the good work
Some of my work
Transmission is in
I don't recommend using ramps when putting in a trans, just no good and hard to maneuver things around and not enough clearance
Took the subframe off for a final coat of red, same color as emblems
And painted my rear upper sway the same color too
test fit, not screwed in or secured just looking got these from a friend in Poland (note: cv axles hanging pic is from yesterday, I put in the trans today)
Led bulb test (I went swimming in a creek with these in my pocket and i needed to check if they still worked)
Last edited by scirocconaut; 08-11-2012 at 12:19 AM.
I'm so tempted to take my control arms off and paint them red
I need new axles
wait til later I guess, I greased the hell out of them cv joints like a 2 bit whore
Still Waiting on a few goodies:
Hood bump stops
Hood pins are Mia around the shop
Hood hinge circlips
I'll finish up working on it when god stops pissing on the bible belt
(it's raining like crazy)
Literally 30 mins after putting the trans in
Rain fell in 45 minutes and it's been raining for 6 hours straight since
Making a widow maker jack into something safe using a railroad cross tie plate:
Put new shift bushings on today and did all the wiring
To do list:
*Hood bump stops
Weld on muffler
*= waiting on mail
Last edited by scirocconaut; 08-12-2012 at 08:20 PM.
Had this 10" sub since October need to get some wires and an amp
And make a rear parcel shelf to install it
New muffler 30$ I saved it from going on some underpowered Honda with rims:
Car is up and running
Attached clutch cable and adjusted to 12 mm
Back to the intake, I had an idea with an old ac duct,
Attached with a specter flex hose and an aftermarket intake (until I find a cool cone one I like)
Inside of Volvo intake mounted on distributor (I was checking for creatures since the car sat for 3 weeks:
I need to tidy up some wiring but here's my intake and breather setup:
Last edited by scirocconaut; 08-16-2012 at 09:54 PM.
Nice Progress, keep it up-
I'm going to recommend you not hang that big ol hunking speaker up high from a parcel shelf.
Misc rambling mode in terms of justifying my statement/recommendation:
- Having heavy things Up High and behind your head is bad design. Secure the damn thing w/ a saftey strap at least.
- Subs put out low(er) Frequencies. They are (generality warning) Non-Directional and don't need to be 'in your face' as much as tweeters, etc.
- You can get a decent sound out of that thing if you engineer a box for it to sit in, each unit has specs that'll help w/ volume requirements. (There's a range, depending on what your'e after but since it's Audio I wont thread drift too much here...).
OK, I'm all rambled out, my endurance is a bit lagging this week. But given a some subconscious percolation I can improve my thinks on this subject.
I'm halfway thinking of using a boutique guitar amp I have laying around
And using the tube head unit as an amp & processor would be cool.
and the 12" 60 watt celestion bulldog it has with it.
This would save me the trouble of having to get an amp and making a box
And still has a lot of power for low frequencies and most people don't realize 60 watts of tube power is insanely loud at full volume, and anywhere I drive I could plug my guitar into it and play
If I did make a parcel tray it would be high density polythethylene sheet with a carpet epoxied to it
My idea would be to make u brackets to hold the mounting rods down after the backseat,
Leaving the rear to swing up
I don't know, I'll do something eventually Youll see how it turns out I don't like doing things Half assed
Last edited by scirocconaut; 08-17-2012 at 04:21 AM.
The rest of the exhaust together
Had my friend Allen over to help me get it done
Didn't have any of the right tools, took a while to cut everything and mock it up
Need to put another exhaust hanger in there to stabilize things