yabt: Mr_Peach and the Blue Bunny

[Mr_Peach]

It's Yet Another Build Thread:

Mr_Peach and his Blue Bunny.



I'm Todd Peach, and I live in Woodinville, WA - part of the greater Seattle area. I've worked at Boeing for 26 years. I got the name "Mr_Peach" when one of my people sent me an email calling me that, and he put in the postscript that "Mr. Peach" would be a great name if they ever re-do Reservoir Dogs. It so happened that I signed up for the Vortex that week, and it was the first screen name I thought of.

Other than an ancient beetle handed down from brother to brother in the '70's, I've never owned a VW before this. I needed an AWD daily driver that wouldn't bore me, and wouldn't look totally out of place driven by a dude who was born during the Eisenhower administration (hold the wings, please). After stumbling onto an R on the auto show circuit in 2007, I pre-ordered mine 6 months in advance. I took delivery in August 2007 with 12 miles on the clock, and I've been daily driving it ever since. Currently sitting on 88K miles or so.

I never really set out to do a "build thread", as I don't show my car, and I'm "well back in the pack" when it comes to performance mods. Since I did my first dyno today, it seemed like a good time to do a thread to tie things together.

[Mr_Peach]

Engine:

• GIAC ECU Flash - had this from Fastivus in 2009 until Feb 2012 when I over-wrote it with UM
• VF Engineering Cold Air Intake - put this in around 2008 and took it out again in 2012 in favor of a Forge BFI
• Diesel Geek Panzer Plate (skid plate) - been leaving this off more and more, as I'm spending more time at the track, and I need the cooling.
• United Motorsports ECU and DSG flash - winning combo, added in Feb. 2012
• Borla Catback Exhaust - scored a sweet deal on this at Amazon.com, sounds brilliant!
• Forge BFI Cold Air Intake - honestly, the VF CAI may be 'as good', but this one looks really cool and may have a slight edge at delivering 'cold air' - every little bit helps when tracking in hot weather

Suspension/Driveline:

• Neuspeed 25mm Race Series Rear Swaybar w/ Billet End Links - ran the RSB from 2008 until 2012, including several track days. Returned to OEM on the RSB, still have the end links in there.
• Haldex Gen 2 Controller Upgrade - from 2008
• Haldex Cable/Switch (permanently set on "race" mode and coiled under rear seat) - from 2009
• VF Engineering Motor & Transmission Mounts - full set of three, won at the Fastivus 2009 raffle. Added HPA 'puck' in late 2011.

Brakes:

• EBC Yellowstuff pads, front and rear
• Tyrol brake stiffening kit

Wheels/Tires:

• for summer / track use
  • OZ Racing Ultraleggera 18x8 et 45
  • Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec 235/40/18 -third set of these, love the tire
• for winter in the PNW use
  • OEM wheels
  • Continental DWS 225/40/18
• Apex Race Series track studs, M14 x 1.5, 65mm long - spherical seat nuts for OEM, cone seat nuts for OZ

Exterior:

• Euro LED Tails
• ESE Tuning Blue Sidemarkers and Rear Reflectors
• ECS Tuning Blue Aspherical mirrors
• Front and Rear R32 badge delete
• added a 'bunny' and 'V6 Hybrid' badge from e-bay
• Nokia Yellow H7's in FTP
• Performance LEDs city lights, license plate lights

Interior:

• Euro Headlight Switch
• CG-Lock Seatbelt
• TID paddle shift extensions
• J-Caps
• Schroth Racing 4-point harnesses for the track

VagCom Programming:

• DRL's off
• Halogen Highbeam / Flash to pass
• Rain closing (windows, sunroof)
• Remote window opening, closing
• Automatic emergency flashers under extreme braking

[Mr_Peach]

• Shrick 272/264 cams
• UM 'West Coast Tune' update
• Racing Brake 2-piece rotors, F/R
• Racing Brake front calipers
• Suspension refresh - Ohlins in stock config, or?
• Tyrol subframe kit - will there be a 'rear' as well?
• Unibrace XB and UB
• Refresh my VF mount poly inserts
• Black grill?
• 8mm spacers for OEM wheels (RB Calipers), or ditch OEM wheels

[Mr_Peach]

Baseline dyno today:




About 216 HP and 217 torque. This is on a 2 wheel Dynojet, at Carburetor Connection in Kirkland, WA.

This is with my Forge CAI, Borla exhaust, and UM tune. First dyno ever for me.

[mfbmike]

[1082_R32]

looks good, i need to starting getting some of those mods

[skaven-R32]

Lookin good man, not a bad baseline for your current mods.

[motrrrpsycho]

Good stuff, Todd

What did you end up doing to disable haldex for the dyno - just pull the fuse?

Planning the cams install any time soon?

You mentioned the West Cost tune - have you had any pinging, or just thinking of playing it safe?

[BetaOp9]

Todd,

Do you mind if I used this dynograph?

It's a PERFECT example as to how United Motorsport has tuned these engines so perfectly...the other thread I posted regarding the intake manifold variable runner length system needs your exacerbated results [due to increased power output the archs are MUCH higher than an OEM 3.2] so it's much easier to see where the variable intake manifold switches from long runners to short as the RPM's increase. If you look at it, you've technically got two power curves. It's that big of a difference. That is why when you switch to the HPA Short Runner intake...you lose a lot of low end power but gain top end.

What if it didn't switch from long to short?

What if it were permanently long runner? You'd end up with a drastic reduction in top in power.

What if it were permanently short runner? The bottom end would be much weaker and would be a complete waste of an AWD system.



The reason UM has made this perfect? Just at the point where the RPM's are increasing, the delay between cylinder fire shortens to the point where resonance travelling down the long headers does not reflect back to the valves in time, thus you lose that added push of air into the cylinder. The system switches over to the short runners to reduce the delay thus allowing the pressure to reflect back into the cylinders. Boom, more power.



You can see in the HPA graph...all the low end power lost. If we're looking at the area under the graph and compare OEM vs CVP, it's obvious the CVP by itself is not desirable. However, with FI...this is a different story.


TL;DR - UM Good.

[Lolasaurus_Rex]

Those are great baseline numbers.

[Mr_Peach]

Todd,

Do you mind if I used this dynograph?

Not at all, Shawn.

There's a big one here
http://www.thepeaches.com/R32/dyno/27July12_Dyno.JPG

...if you want more pixels

[Mr_Peach]

Good stuff, Todd

What did you end up doing to disable haldex for the dyno - just pull the fuse?

Planning the cams install any time soon?

You mentioned the West Cost tune - have you had any pinging, or just thinking of playing it safe?

Pulled both plugs on the Haldex. As part of their dyno service, they throw it up on the four post and unplug/replug for you. If I were doing it myself in my driveway, I might have looked for a fuse solution. It actually took them about 30 minutes to locate and unplug the connections. They don't do a lot of VAG, but the owner had a mistaken recollection that the connector was *aft* of the diff, so we spent time on the internet researching. I could get my hands on the connectors, but couldn't recall how to unlock them.

I dropped off my car for the cam job this afternoon. I'm real loose on the timeline, they might take a week or more to complete it.

I ran Delrin motor mounts for a week, and I noticed subtle pinging with them. Now back on polys, I can hear pinging if I lug it just right. Not too stressed about it, just thought I'd get the new file next time I'm passing through PDX.

[BetaOp9]

I ran Delrin motor mounts for a week, and I noticed subtle pinging with them. Now back on polys, I can hear pinging if I lug it just right. Not too stressed about it, just thought I'd get the new file next time I'm passing through PDX.

Sorry to thread jack. I got some pinging just before my flywheel failed, the vibrations from the then loosened flywheel were unrecognizable by me but were picked up by the knock sensors, since they can't tell where it was coming from, the ECU was retarding the motor inappropriately to try to stop it...thus MAKING the motor actually knock.

Only reason I mention it is because the stiffer inserts would cause the vibrations to travel further through the engine maybe triggering the symptoms [knocking] to worsen.

Food for thought. I don't like scaring people, but I would hate for this to happen to anyone else.

[Howboutcha C'mon]

Very glad that you made this thread, and the dyno with Forge CAI and Borla exhaust basically has me convinced on my next move, not to mention the DD mileage (you've got roughly 20k on me).

Coming from the VF CAI I would agree that the BFI provides less audible thrill but with a large improvement on the 'drawing of cold air" aspect.

The dyno graph and explanation also re-affirmed my need for the UM combo once my CPO warranty is out... since the thread has mildly been jacked already - I need to ask a question.

Whats your comparison on the BFI + Borla combination in terms of sound and loudness in comparison to the stock exhaust? My research points me in the direction of the Borla for peformance measures but going from the VF to the Forge has made me skeptical on if the combo with the Borla would create an abundance of low frequency noise with a lack of that VF/stock chaotic WOT punch.

After typing this I realize it was better suited for a PM, but I still wanted to offer public praise for the component selection and favorable dyno-graph.

[Mr_Peach]

Don't have any of the rattles or clicks upon starting or standing that I associate with the flywheel issue. All the same, worth doing the inspection next time I have it elevated. Thanks.

[Mr_Peach]

WOT with the Borla still has that Wookie characteristic of barely restrained insanity. I consistently get a ton of comments on the sound of the car when I track with Audi club.

On my Borla install thread, I commented that it might be quieter at idle than stock, but I got vehement disagreement from other people with Borla experience. In the low RPM range, the tone is lower in frequency and more rumbly. It can fool you into thinking it's quieter.

It will drone just a bit if you load it around 2K rpm. I don't drive it that way, but if you have an SO who leaves it in D, you might get negative comments.

I was at a garage event at Motoring Unlimited last week. They were showcasing a race-prepped MBZ 'Black'. The car did have twin exhausts with mufflers, but also had cut outs leading to a blown diffuser. The exhaust control switch was marked 'silence / violence'. I might have to reuse that if I ever run a car with a cutout.

[BetaOp9]

Don't have any of the rattles or clicks upon starting or standing that I associate with the flywheel issue. All the same, worth doing the inspection next time I have it elevated. Thanks.

I didn't really have any chatter either.

[motrrrpsycho]

Pulling the trigger on the cam install?! Awesome! Can't wait to see the post cam dyno!

On the Tyrol subframe kit - they told me the one for the rear is in development and should be ready Fall-ish/before end of the year.

UM tune next time in PDX - seems odd that there are no Seattle area UM dealers yet. Lots of VW/Audi folks in the greater pugetopolis area, no? Oh well, at least P-town is not too far away.

[Mr_Peach]

Yeah, I asked Motoring Unlimited to consider being a United Motorsports dealer - MU repping UM - sounds good, right?

Don't know what it takes to start up with UM, but it's not like I've rounded up 10 client prospects for them or anything.

[mach gti]

Welcome Todd,

I too have the Borla exhaust and it just amplifies the orgasmic characteristics of the VR6. I see you're from Seattle. Whats your recommendations on where/what to visit for a 1.5 days stay? I know Pike Place will be one.

Yeah, I asked Motoring Unlimited to consider being a United Motorsports dealer - MU repping UM - sounds good, right?

Don't know what it takes to start up with UM, but it's not like I've rounded up 10 client prospects for them or anything.

[VWNDAHS]

PEACH! Awesome thread, looking forward to running into you in Sept provided you're making the trek down once more

[Mr_Peach]

Pike Place Market is fun. I haven't been there in a while, but I used to like showing up when the vendors were setting up, first thing in the morning.

Ferry ride to Winslow or Bremerton and back if you don't hale from a 'water' city.

Experience Music if you're a music geek. Museum of Flight if you're a plane buff.

Snoqualmie Falls if you're looking for a quick hit of the Cascade foothills.

And of course the Space Needle. Or our new waterfront Ferris Wheel (I haven't seen that one yet).

PM me if you want more specifics.

[Mr_Peach]

Picked up my car from Motoring Unlimited after the 272/264 cam install. Good bunch of folks. They don't advertise that they do VW work, but they took care of me.

The cams are not a "night and day" difference - on the drive home through rush hour suburbs, I found it hard to detect a difference. This morning, I'm feeling a bit more grunt from low in the torque band, just a little more 'chirp' from the Launch Control, and the power seems to pull deeper towards redline.

I'll get it dyno'd again, hopefully before Fastivus.

[Lolasaurus_Rex]

Drive it around as much as possible so everything can settle in. Check to see if the vacuum line is connected to the actuator on the manifold if you havent already.

[skaven-R32]

How much time does it take for the UM software to "adapt"? I'd imagine it's not too long.

[Mr_Peach]

Drive it around as much as possible so everything can settle in. Check to see if the vacuum line is connected to the actuator on the manifold if you havent already.

I did a visual on the actuator this morning. It moves when coming off of idle. Didn't drive it all the way up to 5K RPM, as it tends to freak people out in my workplace parking lot....

I assume adaptation is pretty rapid. Either way, I've got two weeks before my next track day.

[Lolasaurus_Rex]

Good to hear.

[Ryan E.]

congrats on the install, and yes, it's not a night day diff at first, takes some time to adapt and some hard driving. Patience and soon you'll start noticing it more and more

When I picked mine up it almost felt the same, just a little better up top.

[Mr_Peach]

Good to know. Now I'll feel better about not getting to the dyno for a week or more.

[OUG13]

Picked up my car from Motoring Unlimited after the 272/264 cam install..

Digging the the thread.
Looking forward to seeing the new numbers.
Two more payments on the R, then my Shrick's go in

[Mr_Peach]

Well, in spite of screwing up my TyrolSport subframe bushing kit install, I did manage to accomplish something while I had my car up on four jack stands.

Installed the Unibrace UB. These things don't ship with install instructions. Forewarned with a little "board knowledge", I was not surprised that I was missing the forward cross member. I had purchased a dozen of the nuts from my VW dealer before I started. Technically I only needed to buy four, since four of the required eight were already on the car. Not knowing if the old ones would be reusable, and being *really* prone to dropping small parts and losing them, I bought extra.

I found this install video helpful:


The part I wasn't figuring out on my own was that you have to loosen the plastic underbody panels and the UB inserts between the panel and the car's metal floor.

I also saw a reference somewhere to "pounding some metal flat"; I couldn't find that again when I did the install. There's a heatshield shroud that's a little "poofy" where the forward edge of the UB bolts up. I ended up taking some material off of the heatshield with tin snips. This is probably less than desirable for most of you, but it's what I did... Gave me an excuse to use the huge tin snips my wife gave me from some estate sale.

I ended up putting a jack under the UB and lifting it slightly so I could get the threads started on the forward set. That did the trick.

Impressions:
There is no question in my mind that this thing does something to stiffen the chassis. The first day, I crab walked it slowly over a speed bump, and you can feel that it is more rigid.

Due to the subframe issue that I'm still sorting out, I'm trying to avoid pulling max G's on the steering rack. Still, I can feel that the car is tighter.

The other thing that I hadn't thought through: it makes the exhaust sound a little bit different. Much like the way you particularly notice engine sounds when driving next to a Jersey barrier or in the drive thru line, this little slab of metal under the cats reflects some sound energy up into the cockpit. Not night and day, but different.

I have a used XB to install at a later date. I imagine that will tighten things up even more.

[Ryan E.]

nice work as always, good to know this does work, I've always wondered. I need to make time for my XB install.

[Mr_Peach]

Quoting myself:

Got it sorted out. Motoring Unlimited took care of it for me, and in time for my next two track days (the first of which they're sponsoring!)

Here's a few photos of the nasty bits that got drilled out:





..that's an AA battery in the background for scale. VW calls that a "bushing", but to me it's more like an industrial grade "Chicago screw".

I guess I have to tip my hat to the engineering that makes that a replaceable part, instead of sacrificing the 3# hunk of metal (I presume) that it nests in.

Glad that's over with. I think I'm going to do my next two track days (including Fastivus!) without any further mods. Leave the Unibrace XB for a later date.

[Mr_Peach]

Thought I'd post a bunch of photos of the Unibrace UB installed:

[Lolasaurus_Rex]

How's the ground clearance with that installed?