If I had pictures of how bad it was I'd post them.
If I had pictures of how bad it was I'd post them.
Current: 2015 Jetta
Previous: 84 Jetta, 00 Jetta TDI, 04 Frontier, 05 Tacoma, 01 Jetta, 05 GTI, 85 Jetta, 06 Tacoma, 81 Rabbit, 81 Rabbit, 86 GTI, 86 325e, 89 GLI, 99 Jetta, 73 Stupid Beetle, 89 GTI 16V, 92 Jetta, 74 F250, 86 325es, 77 MGB, 73 C10, 06 MCS, 11 Silverado, 13 Silverado, 13 GLI
My floors were well hidden crap. I went ahead and replaced them completely with new BMH ones. I started cutting and thinking about just doing patches but I didnt like them. I wanted them to be completely one piece for safety reasons. The B unibody isnt the strongest thing and the floors are the weak points. Having a patchwork floor was less than ideal. Because you have a GT, cutting floors out wont require as much scaffolding work to keep the body from flexing.
yeah the floor really isnt that bad - ive seen mk2 vws with worse floors - but by the time i look at all the little surface rust and the bubbles on the fenders im thinking its worth just doing the whole thing over... we'll see how the winter goes
cheaper on there, but still not cheap. $400 header, $300 exhaust, $400 camshaft, $200 distributor rebuild/tune and im almost at the cost of the base engine/trans stuff for the v6 swap. decisions decisions...
although after flogging it around this weekend i have to say the stock power output isnt really lacking too much, its not a screamer but it moves along well enough.
so first things first... rust and interior sorted then ill worry about the engine stuff and well see how qiuckly this spirals out of control
Haha, I'm with you on the power output. It's not lacking, but the potential is there and it would be a pity not to utilise it...
I bought a new unleaded head, and I'm getting some nasty ideas in my head about upgrading the old unit. And maybe a new camshaft. And new carburetors. And exhaust. It does have a tendency to spiral out of control
$700-1000 would have me a low mileage v6 with all the trimmings, another couple hundred for a mustange trans... 200hp with a stock low miles motor.
blower would be neat though, but looks like a spendy option as well.
I say doing the floors is worth it. APT is a great place to get go fast bits. They only sell stuff that they know will work and all the vintage racers get their stuff from there. Ive bought quite a bit from there. You can build a B series motor to put out some very decent power but it requires a lot of work and money. I punched the B motor I had in my BGT out 40 over, put a nice aggressive street cam in it and then did some work to the HS4s and it ran amazingly well. Was a lot of fun.
A lot of people go for the supercharger set up because its easy, doesnt require any major mods and some care that it is a period mod (granted, it wasnt a roots style blower). Judsons were very popular back in the day.
I did however accumulate the parts needed to install a Zetec into the GT. Ive got a T5, the bellhousing, the right water pump, a set of DCOE 40s and the flywheel/ clutch set up. My mother in law is moving and wont have room for her 77 roadster so soon enough, it will all have a home. Might take me a little while since I just bought a house but slow and steady wins the race, right?
Last edited by MCTB; 08-22-2012 at 11:19 AM.
so i had a crazy thought after talking to a coworker - who sent me the craigslist link to the car in the first place hah - whos had a bunch of british cars, and we thought it might be interesting to try and retain the B motor as a way to keep it mostly original... but do the mild cam/exhaust upgrades, tune up the ignition, and try to keep the SUs around for the look but hide a couple of throttle body injectors underneath them. itd be easy enough to hide a fuel rail where the choke linkage stuff is...
with the carbs gutted other than the throttle plates.
with the siamesed center cylinders itd be a pain to do port injection and that would of course ruin the "stealthy install" look as well.
kind of an off the wall idea but it might be fun to mix in fuel injection. not going all out on the B motor itself would keep the cost down (he recommended a weber swap as hes done that to a few MGs hes had with great results, but webers are spendy so... FI is cheaper hah) i havent looked to see if anyone has done it yet...
looks like guys are doing TBI type setups on the stock carbs...
not sure how much i like that injector mounting arrangement, but it apparently works
i stopped by the local MG/brit car resto shop last night to talk about what the best next step would be for the GT.
sounds like we can try to squeeze it in for rust repair/paint work early next year. i checked out some interior panel and carpet samples he had from the various suppliers as well and i think the new interior should be looking really nice. the dark blue carpet and blue seats will look pretty sharp.
he also showed me some of the throttle body injection setups that guys are running. some fairly cheap snow mobile throttles wiith injector ports. would make for some fun MS tinkering, and it oughta sound amazing as well...
basically a home-grown version of these guys
anyone have any experiences with the cross flow heads? sounds pretty inexpensive, when comparing it to the cost of a built factory head... this morning though i read some mixed reviews on mg experience, and there was a head porting company out of oregon that didnt seem to have many good things to say about the casting quality on the aluminum stuff, though they did make some good power from the sounds of it when they were all done up.
i think im off the v6 for now... like the idea of the 4 cylinder, and after playing with an ITB'd 20
v 4AGE toyota last weekend throttle bodies are sounding like more and more fun and closer in theme to the original spirit of the car (in my opinion). and with the right filter arrangment they may look like they actually belong in there
i sold a car last night, so the plan is to give some attention to the MG now. starting with sorting the mechanical bits that need some attention - brakes, exhaust, fluids - and to begin investigating trigger options for the fuel injection... i guess there are a few crank trigger options floating around the MG forums but i need to look into that some more.
if i can remove the distributor that may be the preffered option (and eliminate the variable of all the weights, springs, etc)
still trying to nail down some plans for the paint/body work, and will probably hold off on any interior parts until a plan for that is more concrete.
yeah the engine stuff is always of course in flux, but i think ive talked myself out of the work of doing a v6 swap.
if there was a good option for a (more) modern higher reving 4cyl that would be something id strongly consider (s2k swap? ) but barring that ill stick with whats there, and it needs an exhaust either way
things like the interior and whatnot though im certain thatll remain blue, and as close to original as possible, but i just dont want to sink the money into it if the parts will sit in boxes for the foreseeable future waiting for the bodywork to be complete.
i hear you on changing plans though, im guilty of that as well but i think this car will be best served by remaining as close to stock in appearance inside and out, and leave the tweaking for the hidden underhood bits.
i sold this guy
I absolutely LOVE this car. Always wanted an MGB, thought it would be a roadster, but once I saw this car in Octane, I knew a GT was really the right call. Some day...
And I happen to like the Dunlop wheels. Nice break from the wires, and it gives the car the appearance of a small Aston Martin.
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I've used the Megajolt crank trigger system that uses Ford EDIS ignition stuff, and it works well, and parts are cheap at the junkyard. If you're going with Megasquirt for your EFI system, it will control the EDIS system with no problems. You just need to find a mid-90s Escort with the 1.9, or an early 90s Ranger 4 cylinder and grab the crank pulley, EDIS module, crank sensor, and coil. Or, you can use the coil from a late 90s Dodge Neon (has normal spark plug style terminals on it). You put the Escort crank pulley in a lathe, and cut the 36-1 trigger wheel off. You can then TIG weld the wheel onto your MG crank pulley.
Or, you can buy a laser-cut 36-1 trigger wheel from these guys:
i sort of started to back away from the idea. seems the casting quality is somewhat variable... makes me wonder whether its worth it.
yup itll be MS'd for sure.
it was more the packaging of the trigger wheel that im concerned about, and making that look clean and proper
if others are using EDIS wheels that sounds good, preference is always to go with a known kit than to devise my own trigger mounting setup...
ill have a look around the autosport site
You can start here:
This should be close to your engine, right? He's still using carbs, but the thread has some good pics of how he mounted the wheel and coil.
Yup, same motor (as far as I'm aware anyway! This apparently has a slightly later engine in it, and I'm still learning my way around...)
That's a clean looking trigger wheel setup, and it looks like it leaves some room for slight adjustment of the sensor, good deal.
Definitely would go with something along those lines, his setup looks pretty clean over all. There's definitely from for improving and cleaning up the factory wire routing on my car.
Please stop!!! You are taking all the good stuff!!
Also, are you going to lend Gerbil the Roller for his wedding?
A(u). Klasse A, unbeschrankt, ungedrosselt
Compared to a British roadster, all Volkswagens are reliable!
nevAr Lose - DE Minister of Foreign Affairs and Deputy Bankruptcy Controller - IPROfftopikstan, Den Mother - Team Emmett
A crossflow head is not really worth it and here is the reason: it makes no real improvements over the original design. It does allow for a 4 port intake but makes no changes in the combustion chamber and still retains the siamese exhaust port. Not worth the money. You can find an early big valve head (72 through 74) and make it flow better with a little work. Itll save you money. Yes, aluminum is lighter and yes it dissipates heat but Bs dont have an overheating problem and this isnt going to be a racer.