So, I want to paint my bumper...

[MightyDSM]

Hello everyone,

I think I watched enough of videos on YouTube, read many DIYs, and built some courage to finally give it a try and paint my front bumper. Maybe.

The reason I want to paint it is because there is a crack on the bottom part of the bumper, there are several scratches (paint missing all the way to plastic), clear coat has lost most of its shine on the bottom portion of the bumper, and there are many rock chips.

So before I order the supplies and give this a try, I'd like to lay out my plan and see if you guys have any suggestions or tips. Also, I will be spray painting this with aerosol cans.

From what I understand so far, these are the steps:

1. Clean the bumper througly with dish soap.

2. Sand the area around crack, fix the crack with bondo then sand it down with 320 grit.

3. Use prep solvent to clean the bumper of any wax/oil/other contaminants

4. Wet sand the whole bumper with 600 grit?

5. Clean off the dust with water, then dry off completely

6. Apply plastic parts adhesion promoter to places where paint is missing/plastic exposed.

7. Apply primer (2-3 coats), let dry

8. Wet sand primer with 600 or 800 grit? Wash with water, dry off completely.

9. Apply base paint (3-4 layers medium, 1 heavier?)

10. Apply clear coat (3-4 layers)

11. Use rubbing compound once clear coat is completely dry.

I will be ordering the supplies from http://automotivetouchup.com

What do you guys think? Does it look like a solid plan or should I not even start and take it to the shop instead (where's the fun in that)? My main concern is I don't want the paint to peel off in a few months, cause that would suck.

Any tips and advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

[Wolfschnee]

I have seen rattle can that looks ok. But it wont look as good as done with a gun. Take an auto body class at a votech or something.

If do go through with it try and put as little primer as possible and keep ig wet when putting on. If you dont you will have to do more wet sanding and get orange peel.

You need to tac rag after coats to get good results


Do NOT use bondo ever. For a bumper especially. 3m makes good bumper repair products or get a plastic welder. There like 70 bucks

[JCCLARK]

I use a plastic welder I got from Harbor Freight for around $10.00,
it works really good, basically a slodering iron of the right temp.
You can melt the pieces back together.
There are flexible spot putties made just for bumpers, I use one
called "Poly-Flex" works real good.

[MightyDSM]

Thanks for the info guys. I will skip bondo and look into other options. I will add that and tac rags to the list of items.

I've thought about buying a gun, but by the time I get supplies and gun I might as well take it to a shop and get it done professionally. I know paint gun would be a good investment, the only thing is I would most likely not use it again.

As for primer, should I just go with one coat instead? What does cause the orange peel?

[animaniac]

Sounds like a good plan, just make sure the parts are clean and make sure the surface is smooth and when spraying ''primer'' ''paint'' or clear coat make sure the cans are well shaken and keep the nozzle clean by spraying two one second sprays to one side before you press and spray the part to be painted, this stops dried paint in the nozzle being sprayed on to the panel in between coats..

The air temp affects the paint as well too hot and it causes the orange peel effect and runs easier.

Too cold and it will go on too thick..

I've only done a little painting over the years, but as long as the panel is grease free when the paint goes on there shouldn't be any problems..

Although normal primer can be used on plastic you can get plastic primer will bond better and is slightly flexible so it won't crack..

[MightyDSM]

Thanks for the tips.

What would be the ideal temp? I have A/C in the garage, so I can somewhat control the temperature.

Also, I plan on using this "gun" thing for cans to make it a little easier when making passes: http://automotivetouchup.com/store/a...l_trigger.aspx

As for the primer, it is White Sandable Acrylic Lacquer Primer. Does that work or should I look into some other one?

[MightyDSM]

Almost a month later and I have not ordered my supplies, yet...been doing more reading

I'm considering the idea of just ordering an HVLP gun and using urethane paint/primer/coat instead of aerosol. It is only few bucks more than ordering multiple cans of paint.
This is the gun: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...s/hvlp-14.aspx

My questions:
1. How hard is it for a newbie to use urethane paint? Would it be better to go with acrylic, instead?
2. Would a pint of base color be enough to lay 2-3 layers (just the front bumper)? Similarily, would a quart of primer and quart of clear be enough to lay 2-3 layers?

Thanks.

[Shamrock]

1. you be better off with the urethane
2. Yes

if your using one gun for all three stages your going to want a gun with different nozzles

[dasbeast3.0]

Get a can of SEM high build primer, it sands easy and you dont need another gun setup to spray it. Get Poly flex like the other guy said for filler, plastic weld any cracks first. You don't really need a 2k primer @ 2-3 coats..thats excessive, why waste $ when you are just learning. Prime over all your bodywork and wherever you break through the old clearcoat, otherwise you risk the new paint reacting with old. Get a quart of shopline jc630 clear and med. activator. Its good clear for cheap. You can buy a pint of basecoat (I use PPG dbc) at most autobody supply houses. One pint is plenty for a bumper, you need to reduce it about 30-40% so you'll end up with nearly 2pints. spray 2-3 coats of base, then 2 coats of clear. 2k urethanes are easy to work with, just make sure you mix them correctly. You dont really "need" a flex agent in the paint, I don't use them much and never have issues.. just handle the bumper gingerly after paint.

[MyCarIsRed]

after wet sanding the primer, don't use just water. you're going to want to use a cleaning solution made for surface prep.

[JCCLARK]

I wash all my bumpers (after sanding the primer) with Dawn dish detergent.
then dry with a clean towel.

[Shamrock]

Get a can of SEM high build primer, it sands easy and you dont need another gun setup to spray it. Get Poly flex like the other guy said for filler, plastic weld any cracks first. You don't really need a 2k primer @ 2-3 coats..thats excessive, why waste $ when you are just learning. Prime over all your bodywork and wherever you break through the old clearcoat, otherwise you risk the new paint reacting with old. Get a quart of shopline jc630 clear and med. activator. Its good clear for cheap. You can buy a pint of basecoat (I use PPG dbc) at most autobody supply houses. One pint is plenty for a bumper, you need to reduce it about 30-40% so you'll end up with nearly 2pints. spray 2-3 coats of base, then 2 coats of clear. 2k urethanes are easy to work with, just make sure you mix them correctly. You dont really "need" a flex agent in the paint, I don't use them much and never have issues.. just handle the bumper gingerly after paint.

I disagree I would say becuase he is learning he should use a quality 2K high build primer to help him cover everything up. I would also stay away from PPG SHOPLINE. If you want a decent clear that readily available look into the Martin Senour (NAPA) Line.. made by sherwin williams I have always had good experience with it there primers and clears.. I don't like Shopline a whole lot.. Omni was okay but I dont like shopline for some reason

[dasbeast3.0]

everyone has preferences I guess. Thin primer will make him do better bodywork . I agree most shopline clears suck, the 630 I have nothing bad to say. Omni was alright, their single stage was always very thin for whatever reason.

[turbo-y-zel]

i would be weary of using dish soap after sanding....i would use something more like prep-solovent
also depending on what brand u use....not a bad idea to adheasion promote the raw plastic where you are spraying primer...