As you can see, this is the brake line junction (I don't know it's real name) underneath the rear axle by the tire. The line thats missing busted a little further up and I was going to replace it, but I need both fitting ends, and well, as you can see, this little guy is stuck in good.
I've blasted it for 2 days now with WD40, PB Blaster, and Liquid Wrench. I've used vice grips, tiny little pipe wrench, and a torch. I didn't use too much heat as the fuel tank is right near by as well. I've lightly tapped the wrench/grips trying to break it even slightly, but it just won't budge.
I can't afford to replace ALL the lines, so taking them all off and replacing the box there is out of the question.
Its a proportioning valve, it increases or decreases the pressure going to the rear brakes depending on the load over the rear axle. Light load less pressure, more load higher pressure. The goal of this valve is to prevent wheel lock-up under hard braking in a light configuration. That being said, you could try an appropriate sized "easy-out" in the broken line. Hopefully there is enough corrosion between the fitting and the line for things to grip. If that doesn't work, try carefully drilling out the line and inside of the fitting to relieve the internal pressure. That might be enough to release it's death grip.
^ this. try use bolt extractor, maybe grind it flush with the valve face first and then try the extractor.
Also, as far as the rest of the line goes, its split in 3 pieces sitting in my living room. The ENTIRE line that ran there.
Edit: In case the fitting gets fubar'd, is the fitting that goes in the valve the same size as the one up front?
Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 08-04-2012 at 08:51 AM.
While it's been almost a year since I've been around a MkIII, the fittings SHOULD be the same on both ends. If not, a well stocked parts store like NAPA will have the adapters needed, found in their hydraulic line bins. It goes without saying, once you replace the line you'll have to bleed the entire system to be on the safe side.
I am in to find out how it turns out.
Hope you get it worked out man
Originally Posted by skin1488760
SCAMMER skin1488760 Christopher Heiser Escondido Ca951-756-5977 .http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...4-looks-SO-CALhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...e-intake-socal
So far I have busted 2 drill bits (granted, they were old anyway) and one 'easy out' bit. The easy out bit is now snapped off in the hole I drilled in to the screw part still in the valve, after I hacked off the mangled bit.
I'm seriously considering driving up the hill to a shop (with no brakes) to see if they can get it. May call them first though and make sure they can get it out, and if they'll charge to bend my new lines for me. I can put the new lines in, I just can't get this mother ****ing connector out.
Looking like I'm going to have to find a junkyard and pull the entire brake line system out and replace it that way. The other 3 in the valve are in the same rusted and rotted condition as the first one, so theres no chance of just replacing the valve.
Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 08-04-2012 at 05:31 PM.
What size drill bits are you using? The lines are connected by 10 or 11mm flange nuts. A 9mm bit would get most of the nut out. That being said you are up north where corrosion on cars is not uncommon. You may not be able to get ANY of them out if they've never been removed since 1997. You're probably looking at replacing the proportioning valve and the lines unfortunately.
I actually don't know what size bits I was using, they're all kinda thrown in a bag with wrenches, allen keys, and sockets.
The first one I used was maybe 1mm larger than the brake line hole (3/16, forget the metric), then I used the next size up twice until it was maybe 4mm smaller than the outer fitting that's stuck.
Did have an idea though, to save some money and time. Looking at getting a line flaring tool, cutting off maybe 6" back from the valve, replacing the valve however I get it, buy a 6' line, cut and flare it as needed. Would this work? I would NOT be using compression fittings, but the actual flare parts as though it were an actual line.
i second on getting a new proprtioning valve. Make sure you get the corret one. There is one for cars with rear disc and one for drums. Also when you try to take out the 2 allen bolts going through the valve, you will most likely strip the heads. The bolts are aluminum and the axle is steel so you get a galvanic reaction and the bolts just corrode inside the valve. So get some new bolts as well. I had to cut mine off when i replaced this. Was the easiest thing to do. Good luck.
The problem is I don't have 100 bucks to buy a prop. valve. I have to carry an SR-22 and I already can't pay for my insurance, which was due 4 days ago. I'm already frantically scrambling for that. I've posted my crap on craigslist yet again, hopefully something sells. I've even added crap I really don't want to part with.
Can I bypass the 'hose' there and run a line from the valve to the rear caliper line beyond the hose?
I can currently cut out the lines past the bend there for the top left and bottom right lines, but that top right line I can't really cut. It's too short, which is why I want to bypass that hose and run it straight to the other line behind the axle.
If you're tight on cash go to a junkyard and try and remove the proportioning valve with the lines attached. If you can get the proportioining valve off without the lines you can buy pre-flared lines with the flange nuts on them cheap from Amazon. If you attempt to flare lines yourself and have no clue what you are doing you will have even more trouble. You WILL have to bend ANY new lines you get, however. This takes some skill, and preferably the proper tool, but is much easier than trying to flare lines (you need bubble flares NOT double flares).
Search by part # on Amazon, but the company who makes the lines is here:
NAPA may have these also.
but does it have to be a "vw" proportional valve ? or will any universial / adjustable valve work. maybe one from a diffrent make of car?
Serious question, and I already know the dangers and its not advised.
Is there a way to temporarily 'remove' the rear brakes so that no fluid goes to the valve? From what I can see, the valve in the rear only adjusts the rear lines. Being that I have a bit broke off in the valve plugging the hole, it leaks slightly until I can get it fixed. I can currently drive the car, and yes I know it's not safe. But I can get to work now and make a paycheck to fix it right.
So safety lectures and concerns aside, can the rear lines be 'disengaged' temporarily? If so, how? I just want fluid running to the front brakes, to prevent fluid loss at the valve.
Again I cannot stress this enough, THIS IS TEMPORARY UNTIL I HAVE THE MONEY TO FIX IT RIGHT. IF YOU WANT TO TELL ME HOW UNSAFE IT IS, BUY AND SHIP THE VALVE AND LINES TO ME AND I WILL FIX IT RIGHT. I know how to engine stop, I am not a retarded driver (following too close, not paying attention, texting while driving, etc etc) and I can get my car stopped without brakes.
find a bolt with the same thread as the end of the brake line leaving the master cylinder.. clearly not safe, but that's the best way of temporarily having front brakes only. Please get it fixed asap.. not just for your own safety, but for others.
p o r s c h e n v y
mk3 is stoopid
does this mean you have no emergency handbrake too? .