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    Thread: Sway Bar Size?

    1. Member vwbugstuff's Avatar
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      08-05-2012 06:28 PM #1
      '03 MV.

      23mm or 27mm?

      Regular vans 23 and Rialtas/Winnebagos 27??

      TIA.

    2. 08-06-2012 10:19 AM #2
      If memory serves me right, yes you are correct. 27mm for Rialtas, 23 for everything else.

    3. Member vwbugstuff's Avatar
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      08-08-2012 08:28 PM #3
      Thanks!

    4. 08-09-2012 12:35 PM #4
      Hmmm try this...maybe I'm wrong:
      http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Stabilisator

      (Use Google Chrome or use Google to translate the page if you need to.)

      The important part:
      PR number Stabilizer
      0AB 23.5 mm front stabilizer
      0AC 27 mm front stabilizer reinforced
      0BA no rear stabilizer
      0BB 26 mm rear stabilizer
      0BC 20 mm rear stabilizer
      0BD 28 mm rear stabilizer

      That seems to indicate that vehicles with no rear bar means the 23.5mm front bar. Vehicles with a rear bar got the 27mm front bar.

      This thread sort of confirms this:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-bar-thickness

      But then there's this old thread which contradicts this:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1395660

      (That person found 2001-2003 Eurovans with the rear bar to still have the 23.5mm front bar.)


    5. 08-09-2012 12:44 PM #5
      Aaaaahh! This is probably the best way to see:

      http://europarts-sd.com/eurovan2001-2003.asp

      Not on the left side but at the bottm where it says "Search in Eurovan 2001-2003" punch in:
      stabilizer

      The end links are different and so are the bushings. Go see what you have. The end links are somewhat visible if you just get under there (or turn your wheels hard right or left). The bushings are more inboard but you can try to see if you can see them.

      The end link on the 27mm has a ball joint at the top and a bushing on the bottom. The 23.5mm one has bushings top and bottom.

    6. Member EddieVanHagar's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 03:33 PM #6
      go or call your local dealership.

      give them your vin # .

      ask them to look up your part.

      ask them what the size is.
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    7. Member vwbugstuff's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 11:53 PM #7
      Ours is 23.5.

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      09-19-2012 11:41 PM #8
      Any tips on removing the front stabilizer links & 'split' rubber bushings on an '03 Eurovan MV. No room for driving the links off with a hammer
      Last edited by euroger; 09-19-2012 at 11:48 PM. Reason: clarification

    9. 09-20-2012 11:59 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by euroger View Post
      Any tips on removing the front stabilizer links & 'split' rubber bushings on an '03 Eurovan MV. No room for driving the links off with a hammer
      Is this the kind you have (for the 23.5mm bar)?


      IIRC on mine (I replaced the whole thing rather than try to press the bushing into it) I just twisted and yanked and pried like hell until it gave up and let go.

      What may not be totally obvious if you don't have a new bushing or link in you hand to look at is that the bushing has a raised rib around the inside of it. This rib fits into a groove circumscribed around the bar. This is what keeps it from sliding sideways on the bar (and also what keeps it from sliding off during removal, as you're finding). Somehow you have to get that raised rib out of the groove first and then it should come off much easier. IIRC I just wrestled mine off.

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      09-20-2012 12:45 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by gti_matt View Post
      Is this the kind you have (for the 23.5mm bar)?


      IIRC on mine (I replaced the whole thing rather than try to press the bushing into it) I just twisted and yanked and pried like hell until it gave up and let go.

      What may not be totally obvious if you don't have a new bushing or link in you hand to look at is that the bushing has a raised rib around the inside of it. This rib fits into a groove circumscribed around the bar. This is what keeps it from sliding sideways on the bar (and also what keeps it from sliding off during removal, as you're finding). Somehow you have to get that raised rib out of the groove first and then it should come off much easier. IIRC I just wrestled mine off.
      Thanks agaim Matt! Yes, 23.5mm bar w/pre-purchased Febi-Bilstein stabilizer links (2-#18984).

      You must be a better wrestler than I am. I sprayed some WD-40 lubricant onto the sway bar, twisted, pulled, tooted etc. and no go. I also purchased the 'split-rubber' bushings for bar-to-body mount but, have no idea how I'm going to get a 16mm wrench on the bracket bolt . I'll give it another go later...hopefully, with better results!

    11. 09-20-2012 04:29 PM #11
      Tooted

      I seem to remember spraying the heck out of something with WD40 too...maybe it was just soaking the hell out of it to encourage it to slide off.

      I don't recall having an issue getting a wrench in there for the bar-to-body bracket but I do remember once in there I didn't have a lot of swinging room so it took a lot of small turns.

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      09-20-2012 11:58 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by gti_matt View Post
      Tooted

      I seem to remember spraying the heck out of something with WD40 too...maybe it was just soaking the hell out of it to encourage it to slide off.

      I don't recall having an issue getting a wrench in there for the bar-to-body bracket but I do remember once in there I didn't have a lot of swinging room so it took a lot of small turns.

      I soaked it down pretty good as well however, ended up cutting off the link with a "Hackzall" (no tooting ). Mannn, I must be getting too old for this s###...now I can't seem to press the new link on , despite applying a liberal coating of white grease to the bar & bushing! Tomorrow is, as they say...another day

      On the plus side, I was able to get a 16mm box-end on the bar-to-body bolt but, as you said..."didn't have a lot of swinging room" and 101 turns later, removed the old bushing. I even managed to install the new bushing (101.25 turns later)
      Last edited by euroger; 09-21-2012 at 08:46 AM. Reason: clarification

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      09-22-2012 08:30 PM #13
      Finished up the sway/stabilizer bar replacement this afternoon. If I'd have known it was going to be this tough, I'd have taken it to a shop. Actually, it shouldn't have been as difficult as it was but, it seemed like everything that could have gone wrong...did! From nearly stripping a bolt, to having one of the new link bushings pop 1/2 way out (upon installation) ...As mentioned prior, me thinks I'm gettin' too old for this s###...definitely too fat!

    14. 09-24-2012 12:17 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by euroger View Post
      it seemed like everything that could have gone wrong...did!
      No kidding. It's always the case when I work on my Eurovan. I'm seem to be rather klutzy/accident-prone. I probably could even f*ck up a wiper blade replacement without trying too hard I bet.

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      09-24-2012 01:39 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by gti_matt View Post
      No kidding. It's always the case when I work on my Eurovan. I'm seem to be rather klutzy/accident-prone. I probably could even f*ck up a wiper blade replacement without trying too hard I bet.
      From what I've learned by reading many of your insightful/helpful posts , I rather doubt you could be described as "klutzy." As for myself however, I'm considering adding Johnson & Johnson (the Band-Aid Co.) to my investment portfolio ...and don't even get me started on wiper blades

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      09-30-2012 02:11 PM #16
      Stabilizer bar links (x2) & bar-to-body bushings (x2) installed (dealer diagnosed) and I'm still hearing/feeling a "clunking" sound from the front end. Any other suggestions?

    17. 10-01-2012 11:57 AM #17
      Just to eliminate the possibility, brake pads jiggling around? Find a road where you can experiment (bumpy but with no traffic) and see if the clunks go away when the brakes are applied, even if gently...any pressure at all would quiet them if it's the pads.

      Other than that, I had a bad "thunk!" in my '93 when turning and hitting a bump. Not sure specifically what part it was but I ended with new ball joints and new tie rod ends and no more clunk.

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      10-01-2012 02:38 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by gti_matt View Post
      Just to eliminate the possibility, brake pads jiggling around? Find a road where you can experiment (bumpy but with no traffic) and see if the clunks go away when the brakes are applied, even if gently...any pressure at all would quiet them if it's the pads.

      Other than that, I had a bad "thunk!" in my '93 when turning and hitting a bump. Not sure specifically what part it was but I ended with new ball joints and new tie rod ends and no more clunk.
      THANKS (again) for your input gti_matt!

      I wouldn't think it's brake pads. There's only 7K miles on them since replacement (by previous owner).

      When replacing the links/bushings, I noticed the dust/grease boots on the tie rod ends were almost flat (no grease). Hopefully it's "just" tie rod ends however, if they're bad...how far behind can the ball joints be? BTW, there's 119,000 miles on the van.

    19. 10-01-2012 06:37 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by euroger View Post
      THANKS (again) for your input gti_matt!

      I wouldn't think it's brake pads. There's only 7K miles on them since replacement (by previous owner).
      My '93 (could very well be a different design on the front brakes than yours...mine I think are Girling and yours are probably ATE) is either missing anti-rattle clips or something else because there's a "weighty" rattling over broken pavement. When parked, I can kick the front tires hard and have a helper press the brake pedal (vs. not) and get VERY different sounds from the front. This could be independent of mileage though really if anti-rattle buffers or clips were not installed correctly (or went missing).

      Quote Originally Posted by euroger View Post
      When replacing the links/bushings, I noticed the dust/grease boots on the tie rod ends were almost flat (no grease). Hopefully it's "just" tie rod ends however, if they're bad...how far behind can the ball joints be? BTW, there's 119,000 miles on the van.
      Hard to say. My clunk sounded like it was below the center of the firewall and not out at the ends (or, at least that's how the sound was transmitted to me...via the center of the firewall floor).

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      10-01-2012 09:52 PM #20
      This time 'round, I think I might actually going to listen to my wife ...and take it to a shop specializing in complete "undercar" repair/servicing.

    21. 10-03-2012 05:53 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by euroger View Post
      This time 'round, I think I might actually going to listen to my wife ...and take it to a shop specializing in complete "undercar" repair/servicing.
      After I was chasing mine around for a while, I took mine to a shop that was mostly about suspension and alignment (not a general shop).

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