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    Thread: Odd DV shutter after FMIC install :(

    1. 08-06-2012 02:09 AM #1
      So I just installed a fmic on my 03 Gti 1.8t and when I get into it a bit, my baileys DV from Eurosport doesn't make it's typical "whoosh" sound...it's more of a two stage shutter. I swapped the spring out to a lower boost spring, same thing happening. When I get my install, I fixed the brake booster line, installed a catch can. I capped off the two ports under the intake mani... Also got rid of the black plastic box that sits on the valve cover and capped the hose for that. When I did my catch can, I caped off the extra hole that comes out of the side of my silicone TIP, near the DV. That's it... Ever since the install, it's been releasing pressure at a different tone than before. Does anyone have any idea as to why? Is it an issue or am I just worrying too much?

      I'll post an engine bay picture in the morning

    2. Member xjoex's Avatar
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      08-06-2012 02:20 AM #2
      Mine started to do that to when I took the vacuum reservoir off. It's fine.
      Quote Originally Posted by backseatdelete View Post
      i had a girl fart on accident once while hitting the gaps going over a highway bridge. i was like WAH!! she was like and then i was like

    3. 08-06-2012 03:39 AM #3
      Yup, the "little black plastic box" is your vacuum reservoir. You're getting the shudder because thats gone.

      You're prob gonna get an "improper flow" code too just so you know.
      Last edited by Bora070; 08-06-2012 at 03:42 AM.

    4. 08-06-2012 09:29 AM #4
      Anyway to reinstall something a little less visually disgusting? Hah like a small valve or something? I don't like the shutter... I'm tempted to just reinstall it with a longer hose and hide the thing.. Thanks! Really appreciate the input


    5. 08-06-2012 12:10 PM #5
      Yeah, just hide it. Thanks to California's wonderful emissions regulations, mine has to stay... It now lives under the small fuse box on the firewall just above the abs unit. It might as well be gone because you can't see it at all, but it still does it's job.

    6. 08-06-2012 12:15 PM #6
      Don't go too far with it though... I originally bolted it in between the coolant ball and the power steering res, but it was like 4 feet of vacuum hose & I still got the DV flutter even though the box was connected. I think it was just too much distance added to the system.
      It works fine where it's hidden now.

    7. 08-06-2012 04:17 PM #7
      yea mine was located behind the TIP against my firewall...think im just going to run it to the back side of my p-flow heat shield..out of the way..only like a foot of hose at the most. Yea i remember CA smog rules and ish...i lived there..now im in CT...still have my cali plates though! had to deal with emissions and did a Smog exempt form saying i "might" move back soon..so i paid 90$ to renew my registration, didnt have to smog it. hah


    8. 08-09-2012 09:41 AM #9
      So i swapped out springs to try to get rid of the issue, didnt help. Added washers, made it worse. Does the location of my DV being SO close to the intercooler pipe make a difference? You can see in the picture. Someones gotta know!

    9. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-09-2012 10:17 AM #10
      the vacuum res being gobe makes no difference. you need a dedicated vacuum line from the intake manifold to yours DV. the stock setup is weak, run a new line. you want your DV as close to the intercooler piping as possible. put the dv back to the way you had it and try this. that or your have a vacuum leak since you've installed the FMIC.
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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      08-09-2012 10:20 AM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
      that or your have a vacuum leak since you've installed the FMIC.
      check your dipstick tube. had a weird flutter in the DV and occasional limp mode. Replaced the disintegrated dipstick tube and presto! all better

    11. 08-09-2012 01:05 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by BonusParts View Post
      check your dipstick tube. had a weird flutter in the DV and occasional limp mode. Replaced the disintegrated dipstick tube and presto! all better
      i put a brand new one in about 3 months ago..ill check it though, make sure its nice and tight


      Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
      the vacuum res being gobe makes no difference. you need a dedicated vacuum line from the intake manifold to yours DV. the stock setup is weak, run a new line. you want your DV as close to the intercooler piping as possible. put the dv back to the way you had it and try this. that or your have a vacuum leak since you've installed the FMIC.
      i have changed the location of the DV at all, the way it sits now is how it is in the picture. If i cap off the vacuum port for the stock location to the DV (the hard line near the back side of the valve cover) and run it to one of the ports under my intake mani, it'll work better?

    12. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-09-2012 02:44 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      i put a brand new one in about 3 months ago..ill check it though, make sure its nice and tight




      i have changed the location of the DV at all, the way it sits now is how it is in the picture. If i cap off the vacuum port for the stock location to the DV (the hard line near the back side of the valve cover) and run it to one of the ports under my intake mani, it'll work better?
      yes, cap the hard line that was the original boost/vac source. run a new dedicated line from one of the ports under your intake mani. It should function properly again.
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    13. 08-09-2012 02:55 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
      yes, cap the hard line that was the original boost/vac source. run a new dedicated line from one of the ports under your intake mani. It should function properly again.
      Thanks bud....ill give it a shot after work today and see...ill let you know how it goes...i think im also going to look into doing a DV relocation

    14. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-09-2012 03:07 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      Thanks bud....ill give it a shot after work today and see...ill let you know how it goes...i think im also going to look into doing a DV relocation
      i wouldn't worry about relocating it. it's fine where it is unless you have space issues in that area.
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    15. 08-09-2012 07:08 PM #16
      ksdghjshdgbhjd still doing it. I capped off the hardline, and routed a hose to the nipple under the mani...same issue.

      So the problems are:
      -Whining when i get into it at higher RPM's/Higher boost
      -Shudder at high boost


    16. 08-09-2012 07:43 PM #17
      when i installed the integrated engineering machined crank case adapter, it wasnt super snug like the stock one. Do you think that if that is a little loose sitting in the housing, it would cause this to happen?

      Im just trying to take some steps back and figure out what could be causing all this..So in essence, would a small vacuum leak or boost leak somewhere cause the shudder?

    17. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-09-2012 10:20 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      when i installed the integrated engineering machined crank case adapter, it wasnt super snug like the stock one. Do you think that if that is a little loose sitting in the housing, it would cause this to happen?

      Im just trying to take some steps back and figure out what could be causing all this..So in essence, would a small vacuum leak or boost leak somewhere cause the shudder?
      the whining you hear is most likely a boost leak. i want to say that adapter doesnt make a difference, but it could if you are still running a full pcv system. if you have all of it deleted, it sould not matter as much if its not super snug. i run a hose to the floor, so it's open anyways if you get what i mean.

      make sure your couplers are all good to go because a boost leak will affect the way your DV opens. i am almost certain you have a boost leak somewhere being that you did a fmic install. i had to go back and re tighten everything after my install as well, it's a common thing
      Last edited by Big_Tom; 08-09-2012 at 10:26 PM.
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    18. 08-10-2012 09:26 AM #19
      Alright well, ill take it all off this weekend, and inspect everything. I noticed last night that i need to fix two "potentially" faulty hoses near the intake manifold...theyre not leaking, but theyre showing signs of wear. If i have the car running, and spray some soapy water around the intercooler and couplings, will that be enough pressure to show leaks? or no.

      btw, i really appreciate the help youve given thus far.

    19. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-10-2012 12:11 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      Alright well, ill take it all off this weekend, and inspect everything. I noticed last night that i need to fix two "potentially" faulty hoses near the intake manifold...theyre not leaking, but theyre showing signs of wear. If i have the car running, and spray some soapy water around the intercooler and couplings, will that be enough pressure to show leaks? or no.

      btw, i really appreciate the help youve given thus far.
      yw i dont think the soapy water method will be enough to find your leak. you have to pressurize your system and listen out for the whining. you should def go back and re-tighten all the new couplers, clamps. i think you have one thats almost tight and is leaking at higher boost levels
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    20. 08-10-2012 12:17 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
      yw i dont think the soapy water method will be enough to find your leak. you have to pressurize your system and listen out for the whining. you should def go back and re-tighten all the new couplers, clamps. i think you have one thats almost tight and is leaking at higher boost levels
      Yea thats what i thought. I was contemplating doing a boost leak test, filling it up to like 22ish PSI, and searching. Im sure its a coupler though. There are a couple spots where the couplers are tweaked a little to fit the piping properly. But ill keep you posted on that...fingers crossed.

    21. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-10-2012 12:22 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      Yea thats what i thought. I was contemplating doing a boost leak test, filling it up to like 22ish PSI, and searching. Im sure its a coupler though. There are a couple spots where the couplers are tweaked a little to fit the piping properly. But ill keep you posted on that...fingers crossed.
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    22. 08-10-2012 02:00 PM #23
      Quick question...i have a Baileys/Eurosport DV, installed the same way as the stock DV was...Ive been reading up about a lot of people reversing the installation of these. So maybe if i switch it around, it could help the shutter issue? Im not sure, so i figured id try picking your brain..

    23. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-10-2012 08:32 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      Quick question...i have a Baileys/Eurosport DV, installed the same way as the stock DV was...Ive been reading up about a lot of people reversing the installation of these. So maybe if i switch it around, it could help the shutter issue? Im not sure, so i figured id try picking your brain..
      you could try it, but if you have a boost leak it will still be there. do you have a boost gauge?
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    24. 08-12-2012 02:47 PM #25
      Yea I noticed it yesterday.. There's definitely a boost leak.. Would that cause the shudder as well as the whine?

    25. 08-13-2012 04:01 PM #26
      so i went through and tightened the hell out of all my clamps...that fixed the boost leak. DV is still shuddering though. I tried reversing it, still does it. Im going to switch it back today and see if the original orientation with the newly fixed boost leak did anything. But i have a forge splitter on the way, my DV could just be bad i guess....only has about 30k on it..

      halfway there...hah

    26. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-13-2012 04:59 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      Yea I noticed it yesterday.. There's definitely a boost leak.. Would that cause the shudder as well as the whine?
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      so i went through and tightened the hell out of all my clamps...that fixed the boost leak. DV is still shuddering though. I tried reversing it, still does it. Im going to switch it back today and see if the original orientation with the newly fixed boost leak did anything. But i have a forge splitter on the way, my DV could just be bad i guess....only has about 30k on it..

      halfway there...hah
      the boost leaks will make your dv/bov act funny a lot of the time. not always tho. When the air is squeezing out of the coupler, that whining/hiss sound happens. it could also, be your DV is bad since you fixed the boost leak and its still not right. try and swap it for your stock one and see what happens
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    27. 08-13-2012 11:41 PM #28
      Yea I don't have my stock one any longer. I got a forge splitter for 90$.. So I'm hoping that'll help the issue..do you think the shortened hose to the inter cooler pipe has anything to do with it? The stock hose has a hump in it... My dv literally rests against the intercooler pipe, as you can see in the picture

    28. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      08-14-2012 12:28 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      Yea I don't have my stock one any longer. I got a forge splitter for 90$.. So I'm hoping that'll help the issue..do you think the shortened hose to the inter cooler pipe has anything to do with it? The stock hose has a hump in it... My dv literally rests against the intercooler pipe, as you can see in the picture
      i dont think distance has anything to do with it. open up your baileys dv and make sure it's properly lubed and that it's not dirty
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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      08-14-2012 03:09 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      Yea I noticed it yesterday.. There's definitely a boost leak.. Would that cause the shudder as well as the whine?
      It could cause a whining noise, but you could also be hearing your n75 opening and closing working extra hard to keep the higher boost 20ish+ in sync. I hear a whining noise and I am sold on that's what the noise is. Just my $.02. A shudder could def. be a boost leak as well. GL
      Schaeffer's Advantage

    30. 08-14-2012 02:37 PM #31
      The boost leak is fixed... Still have a high boost dv shudder, which is annoying. I have a forge splitter valve on its way, so hopefully that will fix a potentially bad DV

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      08-14-2012 03:55 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by firsttimevdub View Post
      The boost leak is fixed... Still have a high boost dv shudder, which is annoying. I have a forge splitter valve on its way, so hopefully that will fix a potentially bad DV
      sorry to say but my splitter does the exact thing. no boost leaks and it does have the shutter sound

    32. 08-14-2012 08:00 PM #33
      Well my only reason for saying it'll help is because mine has 30000 miles on it, the new one doesn't.. Haha and the baileys isn't loud at all, so the splitter will be a nice change. But I'm still hoping it will help. Haha optimism!

    33. 08-15-2012 06:01 PM #34
      Ya no difference... Just louder. Also, the vacuum port on the damn splitter valve is so short! Could only fit a zip tie of it..

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