yup oem crank manual windows lmao
Fact of the matter is. These regulators are a terrible design. Its not "if" they fail, its "when"
OEM regulators seem to be able to get the longest run time. If you have the cash.
Or. Keep buying the aftermarket ones.
My old ABA went through 3 drivers. 2 passengers and 2 rears in a 2 year period....Ice on the windows in the winter is what kills them.
I have broke one in 250,000miles. They have never been an issue for me like everyone else seems to have. Keep them clean and lubed, and use OEM regulators, and they last 100k miles easy.
Someone needs to make Bronze clips to replace the OEM piece, so that they are never a worry again for the guys that seem to break them.
Yeah, OEM all the way for them. From the three failures I've seen so far, flimsy plastic guides/clips are to blame. If they were made of metal, they would be indestructible, or damn close to it.
First one (LR) broke at 95k on the car. Was factory and lasted 14 years. Got a new OEM one and after about two years, it acted up again. Different flimsy plastic piece broke, but it was able to be fixed with an 8-penny finishing nail and a zip-tie. Still working great.
Second one broke (LF) over this past winter (no frost/ice on the window when I used it). It had been making some quiet/muffled noises for a few months beforehand, and the clunk at the top when it closed got louder and louder, until one day, there was a clunk, bang, and then the all-too-familiar sound of bits and pieces of shattered plastic raining down inside the door. I took the door apart to see if it would be another zip-tie fix, and it is most definitely not.
The cable had jumped off one of the pulleys, so I put it all back together and tested it outside of the door with three full cycles and it seemed fine. Put it back in the door and hooked the glass up, when two cycles and it was fine. Third time down, there was a bang. Cable jumped again. I got it back together without removing it from the door, went all the way back up with it, another bang, more plastic rained down, I unplugged the motor and put the door card back on. It is holding itself up and doesn't leak. Front regulators are more pricey than rears.
I really don't know why so many people on the 'tex are so anti-power windows. Unless you just abuse the hell out of it, or get cheap parts, two separate failures within three years on something that is now 16 years old is pretty damn good by just about any standards. In industrial terms, that's a MTBF of over 125,000 hours, and you have to consider that even in 16 years, there is probably only less than 10 hours of actual mechanical use.
We need a series like this state-side. I'm in if there is one, or will be one. VW Cup 2013, anyone?
OEM all the way for ignition switches, coils, and power window motors.
My DIY Page. - http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...tech/index.htm
Making power, 4 valves at a time.
MkIII 16v Club.
if the cables keep binding up then def get all used OEM ones...the motors are better in the oem ones too..........test them...clean them and then lube them all up nicely...i use a similar method to the DIY fix for the plastic window clips breaking--a small hex bolt with nuts locked on the other end and 2 zip ties on the backside of the clip (inbetween the ends of the bolt to secure it in place) will hold the cable line tight and prevent any further breaking. havent had a problem with windows since! i cleaned the crap outta the window edges (door edges) and cleaned the glass with a blade. i now run window tint and keep everything clean with no worries. i also made a couple extra window clip fix kits and put them in my trunk with all my other spares (extra used oem ignition coil, check!), and tools etc. good luck..heres the orig diy link (there was one from ohiovw.com too but that seems to be gone now..)