Speaker Sizes

[Doobster]

Was wondering if anyone had swapped out the OEM speakers and threw in new ones...

Crutchfield is saying the available options for the front and rear 5 1/4; 6.5 and 6 3/4

does anyone have more specifics for the A pillar tweeters and a more specific speaker size for doors?

[Doobster]

Also just found Metra supporting this infor for a 2010 ( i have a 2013)

Vehicle Speakers
Location Size Depth
Front 1 6.5 2.5
Front Tweeters 0.75 .5
Center 1 2.5 1.5
Rear 1 6.5 2
Rear Tweeters 0.75 .5

[BritBulldog]

6 1/2's for the front. and i think the same for the rear...mayyyybe 5 1/4's for the rear, i can't remember 100% for the rear.

[Doobster]

6 1/2's for the front. and i think the same for the rear...mayyyybe 5 1/4's for the rear, i can't remember 100% for the rear.

thank you sir!

[TBomb]

6 1/2's for the front. and i think the same for the rear...mayyyybe 5 1/4's for the rear, i can't remember 100% for the rear.

I wouldn't worry about the rear speakers though, as most people will tell you that they only serve to confuse the soundstage. I unhooked mine when I upgraded and I don't miss then one bit. If you are going to upgrade, this is what I would do...depending on your budget.

1. Remove stock amp(s), sub, front door speakers, a-pillar tweeters, and center channel speaker.

2. Wire up a line-out harness for RCA interconnects coming from your headunit.

3. Install Hybrid Audio Imagine 6.5" in the front doors, mount the tweeters off-axis in the a-pillars. There is a bracket that holds the stock tweeters in place, you can reuse it and glue your new tweeters to it. You will probably have to either make or have someone make baffles for the front doors.

4. Get a Wicked C.A.S. box with a JL 10W3v3 in it for the hatch. You will lose a little bit of room but it's not bad, and is way easier than making a custom stealth box.

5. Get a small 4 channel Class D amp (JL XD 400/4) and run the fronts off Channels 1 & 2, then run the sub by bridging 3 & 4. I would make a panel to mount the amp on and put it behind the hatch trim where the stock sub was located before you removed it in Step 1.

Alternatively, for Step 5, you could basically go as crazy as you want to afford. Get an Audison Bit Ten sound processor and run the fronts fully active off the XD 400/4, then get an XD 600/1 to power the sub. You could also look at other speakers in the Hybrid Audio lineup. The Clarus series sound amazing, and I'm sure the Legatias are mind blowing...but they are pricey.

Anyway, just my opinion and all, but having gone down this road before and knowing what I know now...that's how I'd do it

[beckermanex]

6 1/2's for the front. and i think the same for the rear...mayyyybe 5 1/4's for the rear, i can't remember 100% for the rear.

From what I've read though is that the cut outs are pretty shallow so you need to be sure the speaker will fit, this is on my list of things to do, if you end up replacing them, please keep us updated!

[TBomb]

From what I've read though is that the cut outs are pretty shallow so you need to be sure the speaker will fit, this is on my list of things to do, if you end up replacing them, please keep us updated!

What cutouts? The door panel itself stands off a good distance from the inner door skin. The best way to mount the speakers would be to make some ~2" deep MDF baffles that mount to the door and hold the speaker.

Check out what this guy did, it was a good resource when I did my install (some things I did differently):

http://tadasauce.wordpress.com/2009/...ystem-install/

[Doobster]

From what I've read though is that the cut outs are pretty shallow so you need to be sure the speaker will fit, this is on my list of things to do, if you end up replacing them, please keep us updated!

Will do- there will be a complete overhaul on it....thinking 4 10s or 2 12s with something clean and mean

[BritBulldog]

I wouldn't worry about the rear speakers though, as most people will tell you that they only serve to confuse the soundstage. I unhooked mine when I upgraded and I don't miss then one bit. If you are going to upgrade, this is what I would do...depending on your budget.

1. Remove stock amp(s), sub, front door speakers, a-pillar tweeters, and center channel speaker.

2. Wire up a line-out harness for RCA interconnects coming from your headunit.

3. Install Hybrid Audio Imagine 6.5" in the front doors, mount the tweeters off-axis in the a-pillars. There is a bracket that holds the stock tweeters in place, you can reuse it and glue your new tweeters to it. You will probably have to either make or have someone make baffles for the front doors.

4. Get a Wicked C.A.S. box with a JL 10W3v3 in it for the hatch. You will lose a little bit of room but it's not bad, and is way easier than making a custom stealth box.

5. Get a small 4 channel Class D amp (JL XD 400/4) and run the fronts off Channels 1 & 2, then run the sub by bridging 3 & 4. I would make a panel to mount the amp on and put it behind the hatch trim where the stock sub was located before you removed it in Step 1.

Alternatively, for Step 5, you could basically go as crazy as you want to afford. Get an Audison Bit Ten sound processor and run the fronts fully active off the XD 400/4, then get an XD 600/1 to power the sub. You could also look at other speakers in the Hybrid Audio lineup. The Clarus series sound amazing, and I'm sure the Legatias are mind blowing...but they are pricey.

Anyway, just my opinion and all, but having gone down this road before and knowing what I know now...that's how I'd do it

I personally have had a set of Hybrid Audio Clarus 6 1/2 Components for about 3 years now. I had them in my truck, then put them in the A3 when i got it. They are def. the best sounding speakers i have ever owned/heard. And yeah, the main reason i wasnt sure about the size for the rears is because i just put some speakers i had lying around in them, just to fill the door holes.

From what I've read though is that the cut outs are pretty shallow so you need to be sure the speaker will fit, this is on my list of things to do, if you end up replacing them, please keep us updated!

When i made custom baffles i made the baffle out of 3/4" thick mdf and did one layer with the custom cutout shape, then i cut out a spacer ring out of the same mdf and attached it to the baffle, so the baffle mounts to the door, and the ring to the baffle, then my 6 1/2 woofer to the ring. Because my woofers were so deep i had to do this, but there is more than enough space between the woofer and doorcard, even with essentially a 1.5in spacer of mdf between the door and top of the woofer.

Oh and if you use/make a baffle out of mdf or wood, give it a couple coats of paint or spray on bedliner so that it doesnt get mouldy or such.

[Fellow Gaucho]

I always thought the OEM speakers (non Bose) was pretty darn good.

[TBomb]

I always thought the OEM speakers (non Bose) was pretty darn good.

Maybe if you haven't heard anything else

[Fellow Gaucho]

Maybe if you haven't heard anything else

Could be because I mostly listen to the radio in which speakers don't always make it better

[sleepy3]

any thoughts on a L7 15in solar baric? or something similar?

[TBomb]

any thoughts on a L7 15in solar baric? or something similar?

What's your goal?

[sleepy3]

nice bump to kill impalas with clean bass every so often but not take up tons of room in the trunk hatchback bass is the best