Aftermarket keyless entry

[vwALLdaWay]

I am having problems with unlocking the doors the system will disarm the alarm but that is it. I have a tr-7 which does a double pulse but still no luck, I did the center locking mod if that matters.

[vwALLdaWay]

Bump for keyless

[VrFiend]

All I can do is refer you to this link

Hopefully you can use that to solve your problem.

[vwALLdaWay]

All I can do is refer you to this link

Hopefully you can use that to solve your problem.

Thanks for the link I used that page to get me this far.

Bump for a stranger.

[vwALLdaWay]

Thanks for the help I got it

[VDub2625]

I don't understand why people don't buy the OEM remote lock and an eBay remote? It shouldn't toal more than $70 ($50 for the remote and $20 tops from a junkyard for the alarm module). Just seems way easier. Though some aftermarket alarms do have extra options. I know you figured your problem out but just in case anyone else reads this, so they'll know there's an option

[TylerO28]

I bought the OEM keyless entry for my wife for a total of 65 bucks.remote and the box. The ease of install and simplicity of its banjo remote is all anyone needs.granted you'll probably need to research if you don't have power locks then it'll be impossible

Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!

[VDub2625]

if you don't have power locks then it'll be impossible

All Mk3s sold in the USA (and I think all of Canada except the 1.8) have at least the basic metal alarm box, so it should be an easy install on any of our cars.

[TylerO28]

That's what i didn't know. Wasn't sure if they all had the air pump style locking. Then its simple for op...buy keyless box and banjo remote.then go

Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!

[Enslaved_Pickle]

I'm putting one in today after i'm done with the heatercore, i got the remote start to work but i'm having the same problem as you with the pump, if i figure it out today i'll post what to do, wish me luck

[VDub2625]

Oh and to give anyone who might want an aftermarket alarm some help (such as the guy above with the remote start), you are probably best off removing the OEM alarm box and using that wiring for your device. it already has a starter interlock, wiring to turn signals, a horn, hood and trunk and door open wires, all right there. The factory alarm should be removed since it disables the vacuum pump when armed.

You could potentially wire an aftermarket alarm to the key lcok signals (I believe it's the red and green wires from the driver's door), so that the aftermarket alarm "tells" the factory one that you've turned a key in the door, and it "should" work normally.

[Marek K]

I have a tr-7 which does a double pulse

I don't know what a TR-7 is. But if it sends the double pulse too fast, your car won't recognize it.

With these MK3 locks, the two pulses need to be timed about one or two seconds apart - the same amount of time it would take you to turn the key twice to power-unlock all the doors.

Note that's the only way an aftermarket system will work -- one pulse won't do anything, while two pulses will unlock all the doors.

[VDub2625]

Note that's the only way an aftermarket system will work -- one pulse won't do anything, while two pulses will unlock all the doors.

Exactly, becuase it assumes the first pulse was the driver door being physically unlocked.

I still say, replace the factory alarm with the aftermaket one, if you must. Saves a bunch of wiring.

[a3clusters]

I didn't put in an aftermarket alarm, but I did put in autostarter, that works with my VW alarm.
It had the double pulse feature.

When the car starts from the remote, the autostarter sends one pulse to disarm the VW alarm (doors still locked). If I unlock the car from the remote, it sends two pulse.
First pulse disarms.... second pulse pops the locks.

[VDub2625]

Does it re-lock if a door isn't open? THe factory alarm does this, but I'm not sure how that would work if the car is started.

[OrgYetta]

Can any oem alarm be put on any mk3? My car didn't come with the banjo key an I'd like to get one, where do I start? An is it possible to have an mk3 with a switchblade key? I was told no bcuz the "metal is different" for the keys... Also, is this true?

[VDub2625]

For Mk3s, there are metal boxes (basic door alarm, called a "perimiter alarm"), black boxes, and white boxes (both use banjo remotes from different manufacturers). Always match the box with the FCC ID of the remote (the box will end in R, the remote in T for reciever/transmitter). Passat B4 are the same as well (and Passat B3s use the same harness too, just FYI, though they only came with the perimiter alarm). The later Cabrio Mk3.5s (00-02) use a different box with a different harness, so that's the only one you can't use.

You have a '97, so you MIGHT have a remote alarm already. Pop out the headlight switch and see what the box on the left looks like. The box on the right is cruise control (if you have it). I also noticed when switching from the basic perimiter to a remote alarm box, the car beeped when locking (it never did that before), so that might be an easy way to tell.

There is an OEM switchblade you can use, from an early 00s Eurovan. They use the AH key and switchblade. However, the alarm I believe is different and can't be made to work. You can adapt a regular AH key by citting it to fit inside a Mk4 housing, there are DIYs on here, however like the EV key, the remote can't be made to work.

[VrFiend]

This is the only way I know of to have a working switchblade keyfob.


Ive read of someone cutting up the pcb board from the banjo remote and rearranging it to fit in the swtichblade fob, however I dont believe they completed it. To be honest, it would be more work than its worth and is way too complicated for most people.

[OrgYetta]

How would you program the banjo key to the car? And I don't really need the switchblade to be functional, I'm jw if there's a was to just use the key part with an mk3... Where can I find the DIY for these

[Enslaved_Pickle]

Aftermarket All hooked up now and it works great so here is what i found out..

I took a couple shortcuts to avoid headache (running low on sleep)

First off i deleted the alarm (shaving door handles in the near future anyways)
This can be done by simply unplugging the alarm and putting a 30amp fuse into the starter wiring (follow big red wire and big red with black stripe around fuse panel, unplug and insert fuse......alarm delete...DONE

96 mk3 golf with obd1 system (wtf?? I know..) anyways

--12+ Power wire, ignition, lights, accesories, starter---- all wired into the ignition switch wiring
--Tach---connected to negative coil wire (ran through the firewall to avoid headache trying to wire into the fuse panel)
--hood switch wire wired to hood switch (through firewall also)
--I wired the lock and unlock wire into the central switch on the center console for locking and unlocking...
There is a gray wire with a green stripe on the back of the switch when this wire sees ground it locks when this wires sees positive power it unlocks the car..
My aftermarket system only puts out ground signals so I could lock the car but not unlock it to fix this I simply put a relay in to feed the gray/green stripe positive power,
I also wired the "arm" wire into the lock wire so if someone gets in the car while its running (without keys) it will kill the ignition and lock the doors
I did make a brief video if any of this is confusing

[vwALLdaWay]

I don't understand why people don't buy the OEM remote lock and an eBay remote? It shouldn't toal more than $70 ($50 for the remote and $20 tops from a junkyard for the alarm module). Just seems way easier. Though some aftermarket alarms do have extra options. I know you figured your problem out but just in case anyone else reads this, so they'll know there's an option

I didnt go this route because Dan Reed said it was to much work and since I never attempted it I decided to go a different way. I wanted and aftermarket keyless entry because I wanted a switchblade set up.

[vwALLdaWay]

Anyy

I don't know what a TR-7 is. But if it sends the double pulse too fast, your car won't recognize it.

With these MK3 locks, the two pulses need to be timed about one or two seconds apart - the same amount of time it would take you to turn the key twice to power-unlock all the doors.

Note that's the only way an aftermarket system will work -- one pulse won't do anything, while two pulses will unlock all the doors.

The Tr-7 worked great it has alot features you can set how many pulses and they can be timed.

[VDub2625]

How would you program the banjo key to the car? And I don't really need the switchblade to be functional, I'm jw if there's a was to just use the key part with an mk3... Where can I find the DIY for these

To program a remote, you need two physical keys. insert one in the ignition and turn it to on (but don't start the car). Insert the other in the door and hold unlock (or lock, I forget) until you get three beeps. Then press lock (or unlock, again can't remember) until the alarm beeps in response.

This is the only way I know of to have a working switchblade keyfob.


Ive read of someone cutting up the pcb board from the banjo remote and rearranging it to fit in the swtichblade fob, however I dont believe they completed it. To be honest, it would be more work than its worth and is way too complicated for most people.

That is a decent kit. And yes, that is nearly impossible to do. I am not sure if the Eurovan AH switchblade alarm module can be used in a Mk3... I'll have to look into ETKA.

I didnt go this route because Dan Reed said it was to much work and since I never attempted it I decided to go a different way. I wanted and aftermarket keyless entry because I wanted a switchblade set up.

That is wrong. It's extremely easy. For a switchblade though, see above.

Aftermarket All hooked up now and it works great so here is what i found out..

I took a couple shortcuts to avoid headache (running low on sleep)

First off i deleted the alarm (shaving door handles in the near future anyways)
This can be done by simply unplugging the alarm and putting a 30amp fuse into the starter wiring (follow big red wire and big red with black stripe around fuse panel, unplug and insert fuse......alarm delete...DONE

96 mk3 golf with obd1 system (wtf?? I know..) anyways

--12+ Power wire, ignition, lights, accesories, starter---- all wired into the ignition switch wiring
--Tach---connected to negative coil wire (ran through the firewall to avoid headache trying to wire into the fuse panel)
--hood switch wire wired to hood switch (through firewall also)
--I wired the lock and unlock wire into the central switch on the center console for locking and unlocking...
There is a gray wire with a green stripe on the back of the switch when this wire sees ground it locks when this wires sees positive power it unlocks the car..
My aftermarket system only puts out ground signals so I could lock the car but not unlock it to fix this I simply put a relay in to feed the gray/green stripe positive power,
I also wired the "arm" wire into the lock wire so if someone gets in the car while its running (without keys) it will kill the ignition and lock the doors
I did make a brief video if any of this is confusing

The hood alarm and lock switches is in the dash (the old alarm box connector, which you're not using now), no need to run wires out to the engine. Except for the tach, that signal is only in the engine bay on Mk3s (the tach signal in the fuse box and to the cluster is a different, digital type signal, I'm not sure if that'll work with aftermarket systems). Good job on the relay though