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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Voltage loss

    1. Member
      Join Date
      Sep 1st, 2010
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      Redmond WA
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      533
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      2001 Audi TT
      08-15-2012 10:48 AM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_M View Post
      Maybe ... depends on the meter or external clamp accessory. Then again, he should be seeing amps; milliamp draws won't take the battery down to 4 V in 10 hours or so.
      Agree with that, I don't think the OP has really confirmed what the actual current drain is. But it should be at least 4 amps but he has never measured that.

      IMHO once the current is under an amp clamping around a stranded 4 or 8 gauge wire is pretty iffy. I have seen it off by 50%, and your typical parts store guys don't know that.
      Last edited by AudiMick; 08-15-2012 at 10:51 AM.

    2. Member
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      Oct 2nd, 2009
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      Richmond, Va
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      2006 Jetta 2.5, 1996 Jetta 2.0
      08-15-2012 01:02 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_M View Post
      No, and no. 27mA is tiny, your battery should be able to do that for months no problem. So you found no drain, just like AutoZone did, which means something else is going on.

      I think your window problem is a red herring. The real problem is that it won't start, right? That tells me you have a problem with high current draw. Next time it won't start, take a jumper cable and jump *only* from the battery negative terminal to somewhere on the bellhousing. If it starts, then you need to fix the grounding strap to the motor.

      Also, when you measure voltage, put your meter leads directly on the posts of the battery, not the terminal clamps. If you were really seeing 3.7V at the battery, I don't think your cluster lights would come on. Where were the test leads when you saw the 3.7V?
      The windows have never been a problem...except when I had the dead battery, which is completely understandable. The 3.7 was measured directly on the battery posts, but I suspect that reading may have been skewed as it was right before the DVM 9v battery died. Last night I did probe the battery terminals and it was reading about 11.8v...this was after an overnight charge, then letting the terminals be connected for a while before working on it. I was able to see the voltage go down by .01v about every 10 seconds with the terminals connected.

      Could the meter have been in the wrong scale? The probes are in the "10A" socket on the DVM and it is "x.xxx". I was measuring .3A and lower, worst case scenario. It would "OL", overload, but only when I would open the door and the window would crack up/down, but that was expected. I will check grounding points next...

    3. Member Mantvis's Avatar
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      Jan 1st, 2010
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      2010 Bagged VW CC APR k04,2001 Audi TT APR STG3+, 2003 Audi TT 180hp
      08-15-2012 02:20 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by regal7point5 View Post
      The windows have never been a problem...except when I had the dead battery, which is completely understandable. The 3.7 was measured directly on the battery posts, but I suspect that reading may have been skewed as it was right before the DVM 9v battery died. Last night I did probe the battery terminals and it was reading about 11.8v...this was after an overnight charge, then letting the terminals be connected for a while before working on it. I was able to see the voltage go down by .01v about every 10 seconds with the terminals connected.

      Could the meter have been in the wrong scale? The probes are in the "10A" socket on the DVM and it is "x.xxx". I was measuring .3A and lower, worst case scenario. It would "OL", overload, but only when I would open the door and the window would crack up/down, but that was expected. I will check grounding points next...
      Where are all the main ground point in a TT?
      2001 225Q (Function Car): APR Stage 3+, APR 3' Exhaust System, Brembo Brakes, Koni Suspension
      2003 180 (Form Car): Rokkor Coilovers,Custom Front Single Frame Bumper with A8 Grill Votex Sideskirts, Votex Rearlip, Axis Penta 19' Wheels, 2 Rockford Fosgate 15' Subwoofers

    4. Member
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      2006 Jetta 2.5, 1996 Jetta 2.0
      08-15-2012 04:07 PM #29
      I did remove the crossover pipe as it is relatively unnecessary and makes oil changes harder. I didnt see any grounds straps tied into this...but could there be?

    5. Member Mantvis's Avatar
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      2010 Bagged VW CC APR k04,2001 Audi TT APR STG3+, 2003 Audi TT 180hp
      08-16-2012 02:36 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by regal7point5 View Post
      I did remove the crossover pipe as it is relatively unnecessary and makes oil changes harder. I didnt see any grounds straps tied into this...but could there be?
      Wouldnt it make the car "squat" in the front by removing the bar? it ads more stability to the whole frame. IDK personaly i dont see a reason why to remove it.
      2001 225Q (Function Car): APR Stage 3+, APR 3' Exhaust System, Brembo Brakes, Koni Suspension
      2003 180 (Form Car): Rokkor Coilovers,Custom Front Single Frame Bumper with A8 Grill Votex Sideskirts, Votex Rearlip, Axis Penta 19' Wheels, 2 Rockford Fosgate 15' Subwoofers

    6. Member
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      2006 Jetta 2.5, 1996 Jetta 2.0
      08-17-2012 07:45 PM #31
      Well...I THINK I have it figured out for now. I yanked and fully removed the rear trunk/luggage light; the one in the trunk on the driver side. The light never stayed on when I closed the door, but it was the only thing on fuse #38 I could easily remove. Acutally removed and disconnected it aaaaand....

      No more voltage loss. The battery has stayed at 12.15V for 2 or 3 days straight now. My only guess is that this portion of the wiring was shorting out somewhere, even though the light operated as it should. Could also possibly be the trunk sensor switch somehow. For now, I am just going to do without the trunk light. Hopefully this helps someone.

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