Removing Transaxle from MK2 Golf. Need HELP!

[jmcgill]

Can anyone clear a few things up for me?

I'm trying to remove the transmission from my 1989 Golf. It's a 5-speed 020 job.

I have followed Bentley precisely until it gets to the part about removing the transmission mount. I took the screw out of the center of the mount, but there is NO room to get the arm off of the transmission, I can't push the bolts out. On a similar note, I fail to see how removing this mount helps in the least. There is no way you can clear the big circular mount without taking the other piece of the mount off the differential, at least from what I can see.

Oh, and then there's the problem of how in HELL do you remove the CV joints from the transmission? As soon as I get the triple square into the bolt, the wheels move, and I can't even start to loosen it.

I'm about ready to junk the car over this!@ UGH!@

[Broke]

I took the screw out of the center of the mount, but there is NO room to get the arm off of the transmission, I can't push the bolts out.

If the engine is off the mounts (the front mount at the starter and you removed the 3 bolts for the rear pass. mount) it should move around in the engine bay a bit (still connected via the exhaust), and may drop low enough to allow the bolts to come out.

It has been a bit since I've done the work, but I recall those 2 long 17mm bolts sucking, but they should come out if the trans/engine unit is dropped low enough or tilted enough on the trans end to clear the inside firewall.

On a similar note, I fail to see how removing this mount helps in the least.

When you go to move the trans and have to rotate the casing around to get it to clear everything as you bring it out the bottom, you'll have an easier time of it with the support arm bracket removed.

There is no way you can clear the big circular mount without taking the other piece of the mount off the differential, at least from what I can see.

I'd remove that cast aluminum mount bracket as well. It is held on with 3 long 13mm bolts and 3 13mm nuts. Just get rid of it entirely to make the trans smaller yet.
The 3 long bolts do not hold the casing together and won't leak any trans fluid, it is safe to remove.

Oh, and then there's the problem of how in HELL do you remove the CV joints from the transmission?

You'll have to use a long screwdriver, a long steel bar, or something to stick into the moving parts to jam them up if you can't have a helper hold the brakes.
If you have a long ratchet or breaker bar and a 17mm, stick it on one lug bolt and let it spin until it hits the ground. It'll try to tighten the lug bolt and should allow you to break the 33 ft-lb XZN axle bolt loose.
If the tires are still on it, lower it to get them on the ground, then crack the bolts loose.
You can also try sticking it in gear to have the trans/engine help hold it some, but the diff will still want to break free and spin over.
If you drop it on the ground, it is a PITA as you need to raise it to spin the tire half over so you can get to all 6 of the bolts.
You can also use 2 lugs on the bare hub (no wheels on it) and then jam a bar between the 2 bolts and let the bar hit the ground and stop.

As soon as I get the triple square into the bolt, the wheels move, and I can't even start to loosen it.

Next time around, crack them free early into the procedure. Just like cracking the wheel lugs while it is on the ground so they can be removed once in the air... crack the axle bolts loose and then raise it, and then they will spin right out.

[jmcgill]

Thanks for the advice...it worked out well.

I got the transmission out, and put the new one in, but the car still has the same problems.

There is no way it's the clutch or transmission. It has to be somethign internal in the engine. Main bearings? It seemed to have a bunch of end play.