1.8T + 50trim = What intake temps?

[HidRo]

I'm running Megasquirt, so no knock control yet for me.
I've set it to be around 16º @ 20psi. 15º @ 22psi.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

It sounds like the perfect candidate for water injection. It would, not only pick up the slacks from the IC inneficiency, but also offer some cheap insurance against knock if some of the chemical cooling is done in-cylinder (post-TB nozzles or direct port injection).

[HidRo]

I was not considering water/meth at the moment.
With all I spend getting it, I might get a new intercooler if needed.

[HidRo]

Went out for a spin again today. Cooler day, 20C driving, instead of 28C last time.
did a 3rd gear run to 6800RPM, and lower boost. So, this time, 0.8bar 11.5psi was the maximum I saw, and it raised 10C (before it was 20C, but could be due to the colder weather), difference now being the bumper openings and lower boost. Will have to test in higher boost as well again.
At this level of boost, I was doing 22º of timing. Too much?
Is this better? Or still too much?

[sabbySC]

The lower the boost, the less heat the compressor will generate when compressing the air. So the cooler day is of minimal consequence comapred to how much boost you are pushing.

As suggested, a better IC core will help or run a WM setup. I know on my setup, I run a smaller core (didn't want to cut into the rebar on a mkiv), it doesn't cool as well as it should, but WM more than makes up for that.

[a4e3y5]

Went out for a spin again today. Cooler day, 20C driving, instead of 28C last time.
did a 3rd gear run to 6800RPM, and lower boost. So, this time, 0.8bar 11.5psi was the maximum I saw, and it raised 10C (before it was 20C, but could be due to the colder weather), difference now being the bumper openings and lower boost. Will have to test in higher boost as well again.
At this level of boost, I was doing 22º of timing. Too much?
Is this better? Or still too much?

If temp were low plus low boost, 22* should be ok (just as you described it). It would be ideal to do the pull at the psi you will daily your car and with the average temp yopu will find most days.....then play with timing to stay around 16-19* (taking into account intake temps have come down as well) until you can get knock detection. Then it's a matter of getting a better core and/or adding w/m.

[HidRo]

If temp were low plus low boost, 22* should be ok (just as you described it). It would be ideal to do the pull at the psi you will daily your car and with the average temp yopu will find most days.....then play with timing to stay around 16-19* (taking into account intake temps have come down as well) until you can get knock detection. Then it's a matter of getting a better core and/or adding w/m.

I will do a pull, maybe this weekend. I'll hit the highway to do so, and even test the 3rd, 3rd 4th gear pull.

Also, one thing that is around in my mind is the fact the "straight line" between the in and out of the IC is right behind the bumper bar. Could this influence anything in the temperature? Or there is no "direct line" which maybe be colder, etc?

[screwball]

I'll be off work early today and I'll get the info in here afterward.

[a4e3y5]

one thing that is around in my mind is the fact the "straight line" between the in and out of the IC is right behind the bumper bar. Could this influence anything in the temperature? Or there is no "direct line" which maybe be colder, etc?

If you are talking about the inlet/outlet of the IC the answer is no. You just want your fins to be exposed to air.

[HidRo]

Im talking about the fins that will make a "direct line" between the inlet/outlet.
Screwball,thanks man =)

[a4e3y5]

If it is one or two rows then no. If it is more than that who knows, maybe. Those r the longest rows so who knows, you may have a point in thinking that.

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[HidRo]

Yeah, it's more than 1 row. It would be like 6 rows or something. I would say tthat about half the IC gets air directly.
You can see in the first pic of the topic, the rebar size, so, the top of the IC will be a bit over the top of the rebar. That is hiding...

But, I saw some logs from before, with the k04, and the IC was rotated (inlet/outlet rows were getting fresh air directly) and the temp also raised quickly, so, I'm guessing that shouldn't make much difference.

I'm scouting a new IC. What size should I go for?
Fitment is ok with this, so I was guessing a bit thicker, instead of 2.5" maybe 3".
Would this be ok? Reduce the height?

[HidRo]

Tested again today.
Did a 3rd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Went from 22C to 42C. 20C increase is not perfect, but not that bad, right?
Also, I did some other runs prior to this one, and actually, I saw temps going from 25C to 44C, so, I'm thikning the bumper cuts did change the air to the IC and lowered the temperatures.

Also, I saw that there was a boost spike, and that the temperature raised quite a bit there.
I've read before that if there is a boost leak somewhere, the turbo will spin more, increasing temperatures. I'll have to check that as well.

[a4e3y5]

42* is a lot better than the last numbers, so the trimming worked. A better core n u will be in even better.shape, so I woild still go for 2.5" core. Regarding the other issue. The more boost the hotter it will get, thats for sure. Ck systems for leaks just in case

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[HidRo]

What would be the best?

22"x9"x2.5" (like the one I have now)
22"x7"x3"

In my case, as the air to IC is not fantastic, so, taller and hiding or shorter and thicker?

[a4e3y5]

What would be the best?

22"x9"x2.5" (like the one I have now)
22"x7"x3"

In my case, as the air to IC is not fantastic, so, taller and hiding or shorter and thicker?

IMO I would stick to the 2.5"core.....give the rad some air to breathe.

[Big_Tom]

i'd go with the 3" core. i have a 28x8x3.5. you can hang that 7 IC from the metal bumper with no cutting at all and you wont be "blocking" much of the radiator at all. i've never had a problem overheating on stock rad or the godspeed unit. havent really seen any cases around here where our intercoolers block flow to the radiator enough to cause overheating issues. if you put a 32" long x 28" tall x 4" thick intercooler maybe lol

[HidRo]

I will now stop the car for a bit, to change to Hydraulic clutch system, and maybe change the Recaro's for another set. Dash is also a possibility as well.
I'll get back to temperatures and all after that
Thanks for the input guys.

[HidRo]

Update on this issue.

So, I believe (and this is my believe, without any information to back it up) that the OEM intake sensor, being placed in the intake manifold will heat up a lot.
I believe that the calculation for the OEM ECU will consider the MAF values as well, and "cool it down".
As I'm using Megasquirt (or any kind of ECU, shouldn't matter) the IAT sensor should be placed somewhere where it will read the air as it's coming out of the IC.

So, I bought a GM fast response IAT sensor, and tested again today.
And guess what...

Full 3rd gear pull, went from 14C to 17C A full 3C increase lol

[screwball]

That's good news.

[formerly silveratljetta]

Replace the intercooler with a quality one.


16-18 degrees up top is where they are happy generally. Tuning off knock "timing pull" is a bad idea- you can be past peak power on good fuel and still have no knock.

Agreed. Despite what some people will tell you, an ebay intercooler doesn't have the internal fin density to adequately reduce intake temps in a high boost application.

Get a precision/garrett core and be done with it.

[HidRo]

Yeah, although I will not argue on the eBay vs Good IC cores, this was not the culprit to get a 40C increase in temps.
I might have better temperatures if I change for a known brand core, but right now, it's pretty ok for me. I still have to test some more.

[Space9888]

imho, worry MOST about Exhaust gas temperatures, and make sure you have a wideband 02 guage reading.. if you dont have one get a EGT guage, gotta have it.

obviously your intake temps could be better for performance, but imho upgrading your intercooler will help but your REAL WORLD readings are NOT out of the ballpark.

[HidRo]

I do have a wideband gauge, but not na EGT one.
I will check next time on the dyno, how it runs, and testing on the road as well.

[Space9888]

so no knock control yet for me

get knock sensors tied in too, GOTTA HAVE IT WITH BOOST OR PRETTY MUCH NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO YOU WILL MISFIRE OR BLOW YOUR ENGINE no matter how good the tune seems to run from the seat dyno.