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    Thread: Engine's running hot

    1. 08-30-2012 11:40 PM #26
      Yep. Looks like little to no recirculation to your overflow reservoir. It should be a recognizable stream. If your thermostat is open...you should be circulating. Pull that small hose off (crimp it first) and double check if the opening is actually open. They can melt closed over the years but still look okay. If the pathway is clear, let your engine get up to operating temp (HOT) and open up your heater core (turn the heat on) while the engine is running. Squeeze the top rad hose repeatedly, to make sure the entire system is "burped". At this point, you should see coolant returning to the reservoir.....assuming the water pump is doing its job as well as your thermostat. The pumps in 16v's are usually pretty fool proof so my guess is a bad stat, it's still not "burped" 100% or overflow tank that's melted enough to cause blockage....although from your video, it looks to be in fairly decent shape.

    2. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      08-31-2012 07:59 AM #27
      Coolant tank is definitely not melted. After running the car last night I removed the cap, the coolant bubbled up to above the 'max' mark. I then pulled that hose off and coolant came out the plastic nipple the hose attaches to.

      I'll give the rad hose some squeezing tonight and pick up a new thermostat just in case.

    3. 08-31-2012 04:11 PM #28
      If the new stat and burping doesn't totally cure it, a lower temp fan switch helps out a lot on 16v's also. Just make sure to open up the system to the heater core when burping. Those bypass valves can leak internally causing air in the system too.

      The other thing to check is your fuel mixture...if you're running lean, it can also contribute to running hotter.
      Last edited by definition56; 08-31-2012 at 04:31 PM.

    4. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      08-31-2012 07:27 PM #29
      Grrrr. So I gave the rad pipe some healthy squeezin's: no dice. I pulled the thermostat, checked it using the test in the Bentley; seems to work fine. But I decide to replace it with the flimsy one from the auto parts store. Bolt everything back up, take the cap off the expansion tank, turn to get the fresh coolant: DRIP DRIP DRIP. I guess I didn't get the stat, the gasket, and the housing put together just right when reassembling.

      Any tips on how to line this all up while upside down?

    5. 08-31-2012 10:26 PM #30
      You are putting the new o-ring on the housing not on the block right? I usually like to put some silicone plumbers grease (vaseline works also) on the o-ring to help it stay in place and keep it from dislodging from the housing while pressing it back in. The thermostat should "pop" into the block (spring side goes into the block). I've seen thermostats get put in backwards so I have to mention that. Make sure everything's clean before reinstalling, any dirt or grime can damage a seal.

      A decent write up here:

      http://www.justanswer.com/vw-volkswa...-scirocco.html

    6. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      08-31-2012 11:00 PM #31
      Thermo in first, spring into pump, THEN o-ring. Will try some Vaseline.

      I must have just moved enough to keep it from sealing. It's a 2 month old gasket BTW.

    7. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 03:19 PM #32
      Got new stat in with no leaks. Topped off coolant, took for a short spin, burped system, topped off with more coolant. Took for a longer drive, burped again including healthy squeezin's of upper rad hose. Gonna let it cool, top off again, go out for a longer drive.

      Through all this I've NEVER seen coolant come out the top hose on tank. Will it come out when the system isnt pressurized? I checked the water pump when I had the stat off; it's spinning fine.

    8. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 03:33 PM #33
      Also the fan hasn't switched on the last few days after turning the car off. All this leads me to think the coolant just isn't circulating.

    9. 09-01-2012 09:56 PM #34
      Sounds like your chasing a handful of problems beyond just coolant circulation issues.

      First off, did you overheat on your last drive after getting the stat situated?

      If your stat is working and your engine's up to temp (stat open, make sure the engine is HOT), when you squeeze the top rad hose, coolant should squirt from the inlet on your overflow tank. If you have air in the system and it's not pressurized it might not. Getting air out of 16v's can be a PITA and can take some time.

      Did you turn your heater on full to get coolant up into the heater core (open the bypass valve) when burping the system? You are burping while the engine is running?

      Just for sh!ts, check your temp level sender on top of the reservoir. Remove it out and check CLOSELY for cracks around the threads. Shouldn't be your problem but just trying to cover the bases.

      If your fan's not running after your car's shut off it could be:
      -it's not up to temp (or over the range of your fan switch)
      -your fan switch is bad
      -you have other electrical/component issues (bad fan relay, bad fan motor/resistor, etc)

      If you're overheating and your coolant isn't circulating, your fan should be compensating for this and basically working overtime.
      Last edited by definition56; 09-01-2012 at 10:00 PM.

    10. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 08:37 AM #35
      I got to drive the car again last night; ran hot. When I got home I kept the car running and switched cranked up the heat. The fan turned on IMMEDIATELY so I took that as a good sign. There was also some coolant around the edge of the tank. I'm really thinking the coolant level sensor is either not tight enough or the tank is cracked somewhere in the threads for the coolant sensor. It was too late last night when I got home to pull it apart, so I'll take a look at it tonight.

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      09-06-2012 12:59 PM #36
      WOW! Sounds like my Scirocco when I first got it. I don't even know where to tell you to start but either way good luck

    12. 09-06-2012 03:10 PM #37
      (semi) Random Thoughts:

      - Coolant Expansion Tanks, Caps, and Fittings can leak, but not be noticeable when unpressurized.

      - Having approx 15psi in the Coolant System is necessary tot e design to operate correctly.

      - Heater Core must have coolant flowing through it during bubble purging, air burping, re-filling procedures.
      It is , ness, in fact counter-productive to turn on the HVAC FAN during this, you just want the heater's Coolant Valve OPEN.

      Note: based on the A2's I campaigned, I always had coolant flowing through the little hose and into the Coolant Exp Bottle, when the Engine was running. This may not be the case w/ A1 chassis 16vs, I wouldn't mind somebody touching on this-

      Does a properly working Scirocco 16v have constant coolant flow into and through the Expansion Tank when the Motor is Running?

    13. 09-07-2012 10:29 AM #38
      The tanks don't typically crack. The coolant level senders crack around the threads so be sure to check that also. They are cheap so no biggie.

    14. Junior Member shawkur16v's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 11:33 AM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by TBerk View Post
      (semi) Random Thoughts:

      Does a properly working Scirocco 16v have constant coolant flow into and through the Expansion Tank when the Motor is Running?[/B]
      On my 16v there is a constant stream of coolant flow when the motor is running cold or hot.

      If it were me, I would check your expansion tank, cap, and coolant sensor like TBerk said. My engine was running hot as well and I did a lot of the things you tried. It seemed like my system was holding pressure, but I replaced my coolant sensor because it didn't work, and my temp on the gauge dropped to a more comfortable level. Then I decided to change the cap because I had a new one sitting around in one of my parts bin, and low and behold my temps dropped to halfway in slow traffic and loooooong traffic lights.

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      09-07-2012 09:47 PM #40
      what coolant sensor were you referring to? the one on top of the tank, or the one by the side of the engine? pls clarify.

    16. 09-08-2012 11:36 AM #41
      There's a "Coolant Level Sender". It's on top of the tank and it's plastic. The one on the side of the engine is an "Engine Temp sender" and goes to the ECU. The one on the front flange is the "Coolant Temp Sender" and sends temps back to guage cluster.


      These are the one's that crack. All this one does is warn you if you have low coolant. If you have coolant around this, chances are it's either cracked or has a bad seal.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...emp-Sensor-16V
      Last edited by definition56; 09-08-2012 at 11:38 AM.

    17. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 01:56 PM #42
      I picked up a new coolant level sensor and a new cap for the tank today. I'll take a spin this afternoon and see how the car does.

      Status of fingers: crossed.

    18. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 05:01 PM #43
      I think the tank is the issue. Specifically, I think the threads for the coolant level sensor are shot.

      I installed the new sensor, still got some leaking around it after a healthy drive. I tightened it a little more and *POP* the sensor was loose again having 'skipped' the threads. I don't think I can tighten it enough without it 'skipping' the threads like that so it can get the proper seal. Hell, I'm tempted to silicone it in there and just replace the whole tank and sensor should they go again.

    19. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-13-2012 09:08 PM #44
      Ran hot on the drive home again today. Sooo frustrated.

      Dumb question: could the iridium spark plugs I installed be adding to the problem? I highly doubt it, but the car didn't start running hot until I replaced the plugs. I did a search and the 3 electrode plugs appear to be the preferred ones, not the iridium.

    20. 09-13-2012 10:26 PM #45
      Ooooh, thou dost tread in Holy (Flame) War territory;

      - Copper or Silber(Silver) Single Prong Plugs pls.

      btw- If your system is leaking anywhere it isn't holding (up to) 15psi and therefore you're going to have Coolant boiling in your block somewhere. hth

    21. 09-14-2012 12:42 AM #46
      I would definitely get a new tank and coolant level sensor.....and as TBerk mentioned, get rid of those plugs. They burn hotter than copper or silver plugs. Stick with an oem grade like the NGK #BKUR7ET . The Nology silvers are nice plugs as well (basically the same as the old Beru Silverstone plug)

    22. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 08:29 AM #47
      Is it a bad sign when the parts store wants to set up an account for you since "you're in here, like, every other day"?

      New Bosch plugs coming today, new expansion tank will be in on Monday.

    23. 09-21-2012 10:03 PM #48
      Here's my two cents. If your scirocco is overheating its probably because the previous owner topped it off with regular green anti-freeze from the auto part store. When you do this, a crusty precipitate forms and clogs everything including your block. I had overheating issues with my 16v until I had the block hot tanked at the machine shop before boring/etc. I too had replaced everything else before.

      Oh my other cent. The fan switch is in the radiator. The fan turns on when the radiator gets hot not the engine. If you have little coolant flow through the radiator for whatever reason, it won't get hot and the an wont come on. Do you have ac?

      You may also want to check your ignition timing. If its too retarded you will run hotter. Plugs will not make your engine in hotter. The temperature of a plug refers to how hot the tip of the plug runs. Hotter plugs sink less heat into the head and therefore run hotter at the tip. Colder plugs have a greater path for heat to leave the plug into the head. Your hunch is right. It makes no difference.

      Lastly the flow into the reservoir tank is irrelevant. Many here have eliminated the reservoir tank altogether and run just fine.

      I wish I had a definite solution but a clogged block is all I can add.

      -Alex

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      09-22-2012 03:43 AM #49
      My coolant level sender somehow leaked where the contacts are in the center of the sender which caused the pins on that plug to be jumped so even when my coolant was low I didn't get any warning... Then right after I replaced it, my expansion tank cracked so I had boiling water spewing out onto my strut tower...

    25. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      09-22-2012 11:08 AM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v_boost View Post
      Here's my two cents. If your scirocco is overheating its probably because the previous owner topped it off with regular green anti-freeze from the auto part store. When you do this, a crusty precipitate forms and clogs everything including your block. I had overheating issues with my 16v until I had the block hot tanked at the machine shop before boring/etc. I too had replaced everything else before.
      My dad was the previous owner. Not sure what he added. *I* have added the green stuff but the auto parts guy who previously worked on Porsches and BMWs said the Prestone stuff was fine. If this is the issue, how do I clean short of removing engine? I bought a bottle of coolant flush but haven't used it yet.

      Quote Originally Posted by 20v_boost View Post
      Oh my other cent. The fan switch is in the radiator. The fan turns on when the radiator gets hot not the engine. If you have little coolant flow through the radiator for whatever reason, it won't get hot and the an wont come on. Do you have ac?
      It's a new radiator and fan switch. Yes, it turns on most times after driving.

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