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    Thread: Chronicles of a track TT

    1. 08-11-2012 08:00 PM #1
      Time to start another build thread, I wanted to have all my pictures and future projects in one place and share them with the community. Some of this stuff is copied and pasted from my old motorsport build thread that I can't even update, but I also have plenty of new stuff.

      The Car:
      - 01 TT quattro AMU engine code

      Suspension:
      - 17X10 5zigen fn01rc
      - 295 Hoosier A6 front/back
      - Revalved H&R RSS (listed for R32) with custom spring rates (700lbs/1300lbs)
      - Custom made front ball joint camber extenders with caster offset
      - No front swaybar
      - Madmax rear adjustable control arms
      - Modified stock rear swaybar
      - Tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit


      Engine:
      - 42 Draft Design intake (with velocity stack but heatshield deleted)
      - Larger S4 maf housing with stock sensor and 3 bar of fuel pressure
      - Generic ECU chip with Gonzo Tuning updates
      - Gonzo GTT-x hybrid turbo with custom external wastegate
      - Modified JBS knockoff exhaust manifold (ported and drilled for external wastegate outlet)
      - Converted to E85 ethanol
      - Custom 42 DD 4" expansion chamber DP and 3" turbo back exhaust
      - Custom FMIC and IC piping
      - 630cc injectors, inline external fuel pump
      - Timing advanced +13.5* on top of the base flash
      - SEM intake manifold with 65mm TB
      - Twin Madmax metal recirculating diverter valves
      - FFE solid aluminum engine and transmission mount with dogbone delete

      Other:
      - Massaged front fenders for tire clearance
      - 4 point harness
      - Home made front air dam
      - 15 lbs DEKA battery
      - Sparco 310 mm suede steering wheel
      - OMP FIA-homologated racing seat
      - Custom 4 point roll bar (based on factory hoops)

      Future mods:
      -Put the car on super diet ( 2700 lbs current weight) with lighter wheels/brakes and short aluminum exhaust post downpipe
      -LSDs and a modified haldex controller


      The mission:
      Build a competitive F-Prepared TT for SCCA Solo competition













































      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 06-14-2014 at 09:00 PM.

    2. 08-11-2012 08:01 PM #2
      Wheels/tires and suspension details

      Wheels are 5Zigen FN01RC 17x10 with a +35 offset
      Spacers are 25mm converting 5X100 to 5X114.3
      Tires are 295x17 Hoosier A6
      H&R RSS coilovers revalved to Madmax specs
      700/1300 lbs linear springs
      Modified front bar (elongated mounting arms to cut the rate)
      Stock rear bar


      Custom ball joint relocating plates (BJ extenders) with caster offset allowing over -5 degrees of camber









      Custom adapters spacing the wheel/tire combo and also allowing a more available 5x114.3 bolt pattern (finding wheels wide enough and with the right offset in 5X100 is impossible)






      Madmax rear adjustable control arms




      Front swaybar modification (reducing the bar's rate)








      Rear swaybar modification (increasing the stock rear bar rate and making it adjustable)





      Race wheel/tire fitment and weight (43.4 lbs)





      OEM fat 5 with small 245 tires weight comparison (47.0 lbs)




      MCPI Delrin forward control arm bushing













      Front wheels at full droop with view of fender rolling







      Outer front control arm view of the ball joint relocating plates







      Front coilover and inner wheel/tire clearance




      Rear view at full droop





      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 02-16-2013 at 06:41 PM.

    3. 08-11-2012 08:02 PM #3
      Air-to-water intercooler











      Dual Madmax DV setup






      SEM intake manifold (thanks Tom@SEM)







      GM LS2 coil upgrade






      Custom full face disc, modified OEM DMF, custom PP with 30% clamping load increase







      42 Draft Designs intake with velocity stack and 80 mm ID






      Manifold heat shield






      Forge unos MBC with stiff spring





      Valeo 3-row radiator






      42 Draft Designs vacuum manifold adapted as a direct port distribution block






      FFE solid engine mount






      Trunk relocated 15 lbs Deka battery





      42 Draft Designs downpipe and custom 3" catback with single driver side outlet







      Auber EGT sensor (mounted pre-turbine at the collector)
      Gauge mounted on outer left vent














      310 mm Sparco wheel







      OMP FIA homologated seat







      45 psi vacuum/boost gauge






      Backdated to a manually operating convertible top (hydraulic motor and strut and line removal)

      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 03-11-2014 at 04:37 PM.

    4. 08-11-2012 08:03 PM #4
      Videos

      Waterfest autocross
      http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zB0ou8jQVOU

      Front tire and suspension behavior
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBt0oO2J6q4


      Dyno run on a mustang dyno at 30 psi (405 AWTQ/300 AWHP).
      http://youtu.be/j_RITf5S4dE
      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 09-20-2013 at 02:34 PM.

    5. 08-11-2012 08:04 PM #5
      2010 at 30 psi


      [/URL]

      [/URL]

      [/URL]




      2011 dynojet numbers (I know...dynojets are pretty meaningless)

      318 whp backed up by a 316 whp run. Here is an overlay of the two runs



      2013 at 30 psi (365 AWTQ/285 AWHP with no intercooling due a dead AWIC pump)






      2013 revisited a week after the previous dyno at 30 psi with AWIC and water injection switched on. (405 AWTQ/300 AWHP).



      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 05-17-2013 at 09:14 PM.

    6. 08-11-2012 08:04 PM #6
      Some useful links and charts I use all the time, they should be helpful to most (sometimes, even if your Kung Fu is strong, you need nunchuks).

      Links:

      Injector Duty Cycle calculator (IDC) by Jeff Lucius
      http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-idc.htm

      Injector flow calculator by RC Engineering
      http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

      Water injection calculator by RB racing (the page, although a bit dated, is still full of awesome info about water injection in general).
      http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html#calc

      Another good water injection calculator by Custom Performance Solutions
      http://www.customperformancesolution...injectioncalc/


      Turbo Outlet Temperature Calculator & Intercooler temp/pressure calculator by Jeff Lucius
      http://stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm


      Turbo tech (condensed entry level wheel/housing tech talk).

      http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...p-Details.aspx


      Everything water injection
      http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/intake/WI.htm

      AFR/Lambda converter
      http://www.wallaceracing.com/air-fuel-lambda.php

      Engine Data
      http://www.carinf.com/en/e3102538.html

      Gear ratio calculator
      http://www.supradave.com/tech/gearsp...or.php?do_what=

      Intercooler end tank design and flow
      http://forum.fiat-bg.org/download.php?id=72687

      TT alignment PDF
      http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/wheelalign.pdf

      Gear ratio to MPH calculator by David Nguyen
      http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/gear_ratios.shtml

      Online repair manual (Thanks ModsTTand!)
      http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/na...TT-Coupe/8N/9/
      http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/na...TT-Coupe/8N/3/

      Various diagrams, drawings and schematics
      http://ttgallery.fotki.com/audi-tt-m...grams_sketche/


      Charts:

      speed reached at the top of second gear

      The TT has a final drive of 3.316:1 and second gear ratio is at 2.105:1
      with the overall tire diameters listed below, this is the mph that can be reached in second gear at various RPM

      25.4"▼▼ (275/17 or 315/17) -- 24.8"▼▼(285/18)
      RPM ------------(MPH) ------ RPM----------- (MPH)
      8000 rpm 87.00 mph ------- 8000 rpm 84.26 mph
      7500 rpm 81.00 mph ------- 7500 rpm 78.99 mph
      7000 rpm 76.00 mph ------- 7000 rpm 73.73 mph
      6500 rpm 70.00 mph ------- 6500 rpm 68.46 mph
      6000 rpm 65.00 mph ------- 6000 rpm 63.19 mph
      5500 rpm 60.00 mph ------- 5500 rpm 57.93 mph
      5000 rpm 54.00 mph ------- 5000 rpm 52.66 mph
      4500 rpm 49.00 mph ------- 4500 rpm 47.39 mph
      4000 rpm 43.00 mph ------- 4000 rpm 42.13 mph
      3500 rpm 38.00 mph ------- 3500 rpm 36.86 mph
      3000 rpm 32.00 mph ------- 3000 rpm 31.60 mph
      2500 rpm 27.00 mph ------- 2500 rpm 26.33 mph
      2000 rpm 22.00 mph ------- 2000 rpm 21.06 mph


      Fluid capacity




      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 11-09-2013 at 02:29 PM.

    7. 08-11-2012 11:56 PM #7
      Pick up a JBS manifold and I'll clean it up for ya. No charge.

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      08-12-2012 01:30 AM #8
      I see your GoPro, but no videos posted. Give us a taste of a ride in your car.
      Sex should be like a Civic; slow, obscene, and loud enough for the neighbors to hear.

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      08-12-2012 10:20 AM #9
      at last ur going to have all ur stuff in one thread . thank you

      sub'ed and fav'ed ....best of luck
      Reading>posting .

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      08-12-2012 12:14 PM #10
      Love to have all your innovations in one thread, Max! You'll probably get banned now for being too useful for Vortex

      What's your take on the AWIC for a daily? I really want to switch to one to clear up some space for some much needed cooling ducting in the lower grills, and I'd like to have the option of adding ice for the track since my engine bay gets very heat soaked in hot weather.
      Jeremy Brehm: Regina Wedding Photographer

      '02 Audi TT 225 Build Thread - 2.0L - PTE6262 Daily @ 30PSI - 10.0:1CR - AEB @ 9000RPM - Maestro - RIP
      '06 3.2Q A3

    11. 08-12-2012 12:58 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by Atomic Ed View Post
      Pick up a JBS manifold and I'll clean it up for ya. No charge.
      I got really disappointed with JBS not owning up to the bugs in the design and looking to fix them. I have being trying to get Issam's attention about his prototype iconel version of 034, so if that hits a dead end, I'll settle to JBS and maybe take you up your offer on the cleaning.


      Quote Originally Posted by Chuckmeister87 View Post
      I see your GoPro, but no videos posted. Give us a taste of a ride in your car.
      I had a few in my old Motorsport build thread, so I'll see what I can dig up for you Chuck. The videos were hosted by my co-driver so I'm not sure if they're still alive.


      Quote Originally Posted by ModsTTand View Post
      at last ur going to have all ur stuff in one thread . thank you

      sub'ed and fav'ed ....best of luck

    12. Member DeckManDubs's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 01:24 PM #12

    13. 08-12-2012 01:41 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by jbrehm View Post
      Love to have all your innovations in one thread, Max! You'll probably get banned now for being too useful for Vortex

      What's your take on the AWIC for a daily? I really want to switch to one to clear up some space for some much needed cooling ducting in the lower grills, and I'd like to have the option of adding ice for the track since my engine bay gets very heat soaked in hot weather.
      No more banning for me, I'm running out of ideas for new screen names

      AWIC performance is awesome and even with my somewhat basic home made setup, I get results that would have never been possible with an air-to-air setup. With that said, I can't say for sure how suitable it is for daily driving; choice of components and how well the system was thought out, will play a big role on reliability (mainly pump life). I don't drive my car enough anymore to have a proper judgement on how well the pump I'm using will hold up at continuous duty on a daily basis.

      Same thing goes for other pumps, they might do well for a couple hours of duties every now and then, but die in a few months if used on a daily basis. Another thing is where the pump is placed in relation to the rest of the components, and the overall system pressure. These pumps hate to suck and last a lot longer when they are pushing fluid. Pump head pressure also play a role in pump life, so if you're doing it, plan to not have any restricting lines and fittings (everything else should flow better than the inlet and outlet of the pump to avoid straining it). IMO, if everything is well put together with these few things in mind, I don't see why it can't be done reliably. If manufacturers can pull it off, so can we without the budget and packaging restrictions that they face.

    14. Member DeckManDubs's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 01:53 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      No more banning for me, I'm running out of ideas for new screen names

      AWIC performance is awesome and even with my somewhat basic home made setup, I get results that would have never been possible with an air-to-air setup. With that said, I can't say for sure how suitable it is for daily driving; choice of components and how well the system was thought out, will play a big role on reliability (mainly pump life). I don't drive my car enough anymore to have a proper judgement on how well the pump I'm using will hold up at continuous duty on a daily basis.

      Same thing goes for other pumps, they might do well for a couple hours of duties every now and then, but die in a few months if used on a daily basis. Another thing is where the pump is placed in relation to the rest of the components, and the overall system pressure. These pumps hate to suck and last a lot longer when they are pushing fluid. Pump head pressure also play a role in pump life, so if you're doing it, plan to not have any restricting lines and fittings (everything else should flow better than the inlet and outlet of the pump to avoid straining it). IMO, if everything is well put together with these few things in mind, I don't see why it can't be done reliably. If manufacturers can pull it off, so can we without the budget and packaging restrictions that they face.

      Max,

      You can try to get your hands on a Toyota Tundra TRD supercharger pump. I will try to grab some part #'s off it next time I have my old mans truck around for moving things. But that is for a large displacement SC with ~2.5 gal holding capacity. He has over 30k on the thing without an issue. So for track and street use it might be a good use. The other pump that you might try out would be from a Ford Lightning Supercharged, those are popular with the VRT and that is what Tony @ EPL used on his 1.8T European Challenge car.

    15. 08-12-2012 02:48 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by DeckManDubs View Post
      Max,

      You can try to get your hands on a Toyota Tundra TRD supercharger pump. I will try to grab some part #'s off it next time I have my old mans truck around for moving things. But that is for a large displacement SC with ~2.5 gal holding capacity. He has over 30k on the thing without an issue. So for track and street use it might be a good use. The other pump that you might try out would be from a Ford Lightning Supercharged, those are popular with the VRT and that is what Tony @ EPL used on his 1.8T European Challenge car.
      Noted, thanks!!! I will definitely give the TRD Tundra a try when my pumps (I bought two of them) kick the bucket. The one I'm using now is also on the loud side as it totally covers my inline Bosh 044 whine. For the price with warranty, self priming, continuous duty capability, and flow rate, it was not a bad choice to get me started, but the noise is not for everyone (I wouldn't be able to take it on a daily basis), and I have no idea how long it'll last.
      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 08-12-2012 at 02:51 PM.

    16. Member steve-o 16v GLI's Avatar
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      08-16-2012 09:45 PM #16
      Hey max I see you have spots reserved for more info. Id be interested to know what clutch/FW setup your running. I recently bought an 04 225 roadster that I have since been slowly upgrading and the clutch is the next big maintenance expense left. glad you finally have a thread to document the whole car!
      It's his right to go off on whoever he wants. Etiquette isn't a requirement in America. It's his right as an American to be a douchebag. :-) You don't hate America, do you?

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      08-17-2012 07:56 AM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      dogbone delete
      Do whatttttttt?

    18. Member Doooglasss's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 08:29 AM #18
      I've got some photos to share. This is a fun car to drive
      -Doug

    19. 08-17-2012 09:17 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by steve-o 16v GLI View Post
      Hey max I see you have spots reserved for more info. Id be interested to know what clutch/FW setup your running. I recently bought an 04 225 roadster that I have since been slowly upgrading and the clutch is the next big maintenance expense left. glad you finally have a thread to document the whole car!
      Steve, the clutch setup will be documented in this thread very soon. It is not an off-the-shelf kit and everything was custom built to keep engagement and modulation user friendly while being able to grab gobs of TQ.

    20. 08-17-2012 09:33 AM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      Do whatttttttt?
      Yup, I don't have such a thing in my car anymore . What I'm running is a prototype from one of the respected companies in the 1.8t world. They have it designed for their 1000 HP shop car and only fitted on their car and mine. I don't know how much of it they want out in the public yet, so if you want I can give you info via PM or emails.

    21. Member steve-o 16v GLI's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 11:55 AM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      Steve, the clutch setup will be documented in this thread very soon. It is not an off-the-shelf kit and everything was custom built to keep engagement and modulation user friendly while being able to grab gobs of TQ.
      pretty much what Im looking for. Dont really wana dump a g+ into a clutch/fw setup thats gonna be finnicky for a dd. I thought I remembered you posting somewhere that it was custom made for you. Ill keep my eye out for the update.
      It's his right to go off on whoever he wants. Etiquette isn't a requirement in America. It's his right as an American to be a douchebag. :-) You don't hate America, do you?

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      08-17-2012 12:19 PM #22
      How big is the S4 MAF? Link to purchase?

    23. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 12:38 PM #23
      225 maf = 3" od, 2.75" in, s4 maf = 3.25" od, 3" id
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

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      08-17-2012 03:06 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      Yup, I don't have such a thing in my car anymore . What I'm running is a prototype from one of the respected companies in the 1.8t world. They have it designed for their 1000 HP shop car and only fitted on their car and mine. I don't know how much of it they want out in the public yet, so if you want I can give you info via PM or emails.
      So you didn't delete it, you have another solid version. PM the details, good sir.

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      08-17-2012 04:26 PM #25
      Copy me on that PM! Even with BFI mounts all around, my engine still moves more than I'd like...
      Jeremy Brehm: Regina Wedding Photographer

      '02 Audi TT 225 Build Thread - 2.0L - PTE6262 Daily @ 30PSI - 10.0:1CR - AEB @ 9000RPM - Maestro - RIP
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    26. 08-17-2012 04:37 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by Kacz07 View Post
      How big is the S4 MAF? Link to purchase?
      It's the bigger S4 housing that I'm using, the sensor itself is still the OEM 225 sensor. The dimensions posted by Eric are correct (everything is from Audi's part bin).

    27. 08-17-2012 04:45 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      So you didn't delete it, you have another solid version. PM the details, good sir.
      Oh yes, it's deleted! There is no actual pendulum mount to be found and you'll get it with the details/ pics as soon as I get to my laptop.

      Quote Originally Posted by jbrehm View Post
      Copy me on that PM! Even with BFI mounts all around, my engine still moves more than I'd like...
      With this, you'd have to twist the frame to get pendulum movement. Details coming your way as well!

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      08-17-2012 05:11 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      It's the bigger S4 housing that I'm using, the sensor itself is still the OEM 225 sensor. The dimensions posted by Eric are correct (everything is from Audi's part bin).
      Bigger would be the huge V8 one then, not the 2.7TT.

      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      Oh yes, it's deleted! There is no actual pendulum mount to be found and you'll get it with the details/ pics as soon as I get to my laptop.
      Well it may not be a "mount," but if there's something there I don't see how you deleted it. I guess I'll patiently await your info. My black TT is getting more attention these days and I'll be up and running hopefully this spring so looking into future plans.

    29. 08-17-2012 05:44 PM #29
      Bigger would be the huge V8 one then, not the 2.7TT.
      I mean bigger than stock... and yes, the 2.7 housing is used and not the V8 version.


      Well it may not be a "mount," but if there's something there I don't see how you deleted it. I guess I'll patiently await your info. My black TT is getting more attention these days and I'll be up and running hopefully this spring so looking into future plans.
      Technically, you're right since there is something in place to stop pendulum motion.

      " dogbone mount delete with substitution" is a better description for you.
      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 08-17-2012 at 08:25 PM.

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      08-18-2012 02:59 PM #30
      Nice. Thanks. I just picked up an R32 MAF, which seems bigger. Got it from a guy who said his friend uses one on his 225 and it's def bigger. Guessing it's the same as the S4.

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      08-18-2012 03:46 PM #31
      Beautiful.

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      08-18-2012 03:46 PM #32
      2004 TTQ 225 Blueflame Exhaust, APR, Modshack, Dieselgeek Shortshift
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      08-29-2012 11:13 AM #33
      Can you share more about your awic? Do you have a front mounted aw rad?
      or do youhave a chilled reservoir? Iamgoing to the build a system with a fmaw rad with enough volume to properly cool the air charge based on a 94front celica turbo intercooled system ST205.7
      2004 TTQ 225 Blueflame Exhaust, APR, Modshack, Dieselgeek Shortshift
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    34. Member Doooglasss's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 11:52 AM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      Technically, you're right since there is something in place to stop pendulum motion.

      " dogbone mount delete with substitution" is a better description for you.
      best description: a man's dogbone mount

      Second description: Take rubber and replace with metal.
      -Doug

    35. 08-29-2012 08:21 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by deltaP View Post
      Can you share more about your awic? Do you have a front mounted aw rad?
      or do youhave a chilled reservoir? Iamgoing to the build a system with a fmaw rad with enough volume to properly cool the air charge based on a 94front celica turbo intercooled system ST205.7
      Clay, I'll be sending you a PM reply with more details about your questions on AWIC, but I run a front mounted heat exchanger. It's relatively small (12"x14") but I went all out to keep airflow consistently high over it. I have my OEM fans pulling air at high speed behind the heat exchanger at low speed. On long highways drives, the fans are not "on" because airflow is naturally high, so it's not needed.

      I had plans to experiment with a second heat exchanger placed in one the SMIC locations and incorporate a trunk mounted beer keg into the loop to serve as heat sink, but seeing how efficient the system is, at low fluid volume but with high fluid/ air flow, I'm starting to reconsider. I have yet to see any heat soaking of the fluid because it is consistently being cooled with all the airflow I'm forcing through the heat exchanger.

      A few pointers:

      - keep fluid flow high and pressure low. Try not to downsize anywhere with fittings, bends etc. Whatever the OD on your pump inlet/outlet should remain constant throughout the system (also avoid unecessary bends).

      - have the shortest line from heat exchanger outlet (cold side) to the pump then the core. This will ensure the most efficient use of the cooled fluid.

      - have your pump lower than its feed source so it's gravity feed. These pumps in general hate to suck and do a better job a pushing fluid.

      - make sure your heat exchanger inlet/outlet are horizontally place at the top. This will guarantee maximum efficiency and zero trapped air pockets.

      - don't use more core than what you need. Most common mistake with AWIC is people choose oversize core that they don't have the capacity to keep up with in terms of fluid cooling.




      Heat exchanger used

      Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 08-29-2012 at 08:38 PM.

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