Chronicles of a track TT

[Marcus_Aurelius]

I didn't want to start another build thread but wanted to have all my pictures and future projects in one place and share them with the community. Some of this stuff is copied and pasted from my old motorsport build thread that I can't even update, but I also have plenty of new stuff.

The Car:
- 01 TT quattro AMU engine code

Suspension:
- 17X10 5zigen fn01rc
- 295 Hoosier A6 front/back
- Revalved H&R RSS (listed for R32) with custom spring rates (700lbs/1300lbs)
- Custom made front ball joint extenders with caster offset
- Modified stock front swaybar with about half the stock rate and stock rear swaybar
- Madmax rear adjustable control arms

Engine:
- 42 Draft Design intake (with velocity stack but heatshield deleted)
- Larger S4 maf housing with stock sensor and 3 bar of fuel pressure
- Generic ECU chip with Gonzo Tuning updates.
- Wastegate actuator modified with external springs
- Converted to E85 ethanol
- Custom 3" turbo back exhaust with 42 Draft Designs downpipe
- Maf controlled Water injection kit (running straight distilled water via 4 custom direct port nozzles, two pre-throttle body nozzles, and one pre-turbo nozzles)
- 630cc injectors, inline external fuel pump
-Timing advanced +13.5* on top of the base flash
-034 motorsport phenolic manifold spacer
- Twin Madmax metal recirculating diverter valves
-Custom air-to-water intercooler
-FFE solid aluminum engine mount, FFE delrin transmission mount and dogbone delete
-Custom ported OEM exhaust manifold

Other:
- Slightly massaged front fenders for tire clearance
- 4 point harness
- Home made front lip
- 15 lbs DEKA battery
- Sparco 310 mm suede steering wheel

Future mods:
-Put the car on a diet with lighter seats/brackets, etc.
-LSDs and a competition haldex controller
-A solution to the exhaust manifold problem that nobody seems to get right (solved now )

The mission:
Build a competitive street prepared TT for SCCA Solo competition

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Wheels/tires and suspension details

Wheels are 5Zigen FN01RC 17x10 with a +35 offset
Spacers are 25mm converting 5X100 to 5X114.3
Tires are 295x17 Hoosier A6
H&R RSS coilovers revalved to Madmax specs
700/1300 lbs linear springs
Modified front bar (elongated mounting arms to cut the rate)
Stock rear bar


Custom ball joint relocating plates (BJ extenders) with caster offset allowing over -5 degrees of camber









Custom adapters spacing the wheel/tire combo and also allowing a more available 5x114.3 bolt pattern (finding wheels wide enough and with the right offset in 5X100 is impossible)






Madmax rear adjustable control arms




Front swaybar modification (reducing the bar's rate)








Rear swaybar modification (increasing the stock rear bar rate and making it adjustable)





Race wheel/tire fitment and weight (43.4 lbs)





OEM fat 5 with small 245 tires weight comparison (47.0 lbs)




MCPI Delrin forward control arm bushing













Front wheels at full droop with view of fender rolling







Outer front control arm view of the ball joint relocating plates







Front coilover and inner wheel/tire clearance




Rear view at full droop

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Air-to-water intercooler











Dual Madmax DV setup




42 Draft Designs intake with velocity stack and 80 mm ID






Manifold heat shield






Forge unos MBC with stiff spring





Valeo 3-row radiator






42 Draft Designs vacuum manifold adapted as a direct port distribution block






FFE solid engine mount






Trunk relocated 15 lbs Deka battery





42 Draft Designs downpipe and custom 3" catback with single driver side outlet







Auber EGT sensor (mounted pre-turbine at the collector)
Gauge mounted on outer left vent















Backdated to a manually operating convertible top (hydraulic motor and strut and line removal)

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Videos

Front tire and suspension behavior
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBt0oO2J6q4


Dyno run on a mustang dyno at 30 psi (405 AWTQ/300 AWHP).
http://youtu.be/j_RITf5S4dE

[Marcus_Aurelius]

2010 at 30 psi


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2011 dynojet numbers (I know...dynojets are pretty meaningless)

318 whp backed up by a 316 whp run. Here is an overlay of the two runs



2013 at 30 psi (365 AWTQ/285 AWHP with no intercooling due a dead AWIC pump)






2013 revisited a week after the previous dyno at 30 psi with AWIC and water injection switched on. (405 AWTQ/300 AWHP).

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Some useful links and charts I use all the time, they should be helpful to most (sometimes, even if your Kung Fu is strong, you need nunchuks).

Links:

Injector Duty Cycle calculator (IDC) by Jeff Lucius
http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-idc.htm

Injector flow calculator by RC Engineering
http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Water injection calculator by RB racing (the page, although a bit dated, is still full of awesome info about water injection in general).
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html#calc

Another good water injection calculator by Custom Performance Solutions
http://www.customperformancesolution...injectioncalc/


Turbo Outlet Temperature Calculator & Intercooler temp/pressure calculator by Jeff Lucius
http://stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

Everything water injection
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/intake/WI.htm

AFR/Lambda converter
http://www.wallaceracing.com/air-fuel-lambda.php

Engine Data
http://www.carinf.com/en/e3102538.html

TT alignment PDF
http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/wheelalign.pdf

Gear ratio to MPH calculator by David Nguyen
http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/gear_ratios.shtml

Online repair manual (Thanks ModsTTand!)
http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/na...TT-Coupe/8N/9/
http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/na...TT-Coupe/8N/3/

Various diagrams, drawings and schematics
http://ttgallery.fotki.com/audi-tt-m...grams_sketche/


Charts:

speed reached at the top of second gear

The TT has a final drive of 3.316:1 and second gear ratio is at 2.105:1
with the overall tire diameters listed below, this is the mph that can be reached in second gear at various RPM

25.4"▼▼ (275/17 or 315/17) -- 24.8"▼▼(285/18)
RPM ------------(MPH) ------ RPM----------- (MPH)
8000 rpm 87.00 mph ------- 8000 rpm 84.26 mph
7500 rpm 81.00 mph ------- 7500 rpm 78.99 mph
7000 rpm 76.00 mph ------- 7000 rpm 73.73 mph
6500 rpm 70.00 mph ------- 6500 rpm 68.46 mph
6000 rpm 65.00 mph ------- 6000 rpm 63.19 mph
5500 rpm 60.00 mph ------- 5500 rpm 57.93 mph
5000 rpm 54.00 mph ------- 5000 rpm 52.66 mph
4500 rpm 49.00 mph ------- 4500 rpm 47.39 mph
4000 rpm 43.00 mph ------- 4000 rpm 42.13 mph
3500 rpm 38.00 mph ------- 3500 rpm 36.86 mph
3000 rpm 32.00 mph ------- 3000 rpm 31.60 mph
2500 rpm 27.00 mph ------- 2500 rpm 26.33 mph
2000 rpm 22.00 mph ------- 2000 rpm 21.06 mph


Fluid capacity

[Atomic Ed]

Pick up a JBS manifold and I'll clean it up for ya. No charge.

[Chuckmeister87]

I see your GoPro, but no videos posted. Give us a taste of a ride in your car.

[ModsTTand]

at last ur going to have all ur stuff in one thread . thank you

sub'ed and fav'ed ....best of luck

[jbrehm]

Love to have all your innovations in one thread, Max! You'll probably get banned now for being too useful for Vortex

What's your take on the AWIC for a daily? I really want to switch to one to clear up some space for some much needed cooling ducting in the lower grills, and I'd like to have the option of adding ice for the track since my engine bay gets very heat soaked in hot weather.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Pick up a JBS manifold and I'll clean it up for ya. No charge.

I got really disappointed with JBS not owning up to the bugs in the design and looking to fix them. I have being trying to get Issam's attention about his prototype iconel version of 034, so if that hits a dead end, I'll settle to JBS and maybe take you up your offer on the cleaning.

I see your GoPro, but no videos posted. Give us a taste of a ride in your car.

I had a few in my old Motorsport build thread, so I'll see what I can dig up for you Chuck. The videos were hosted by my co-driver so I'm not sure if they're still alive.

at last ur going to have all ur stuff in one thread . thank you

sub'ed and fav'ed ....best of luck

[DeckManDubs]

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Love to have all your innovations in one thread, Max! You'll probably get banned now for being too useful for Vortex

What's your take on the AWIC for a daily? I really want to switch to one to clear up some space for some much needed cooling ducting in the lower grills, and I'd like to have the option of adding ice for the track since my engine bay gets very heat soaked in hot weather.

No more banning for me, I'm running out of ideas for new screen names

AWIC performance is awesome and even with my somewhat basic home made setup, I get results that would have never been possible with an air-to-air setup. With that said, I can't say for sure how suitable it is for daily driving; choice of components and how well the system was thought out, will play a big role on reliability (mainly pump life). I don't drive my car enough anymore to have a proper judgement on how well the pump I'm using will hold up at continuous duty on a daily basis.

Same thing goes for other pumps, they might do well for a couple hours of duties every now and then, but die in a few months if used on a daily basis. Another thing is where the pump is placed in relation to the rest of the components, and the overall system pressure. These pumps hate to suck and last a lot longer when they are pushing fluid. Pump head pressure also play a role in pump life, so if you're doing it, plan to not have any restricting lines and fittings (everything else should flow better than the inlet and outlet of the pump to avoid straining it). IMO, if everything is well put together with these few things in mind, I don't see why it can't be done reliably. If manufacturers can pull it off, so can we without the budget and packaging restrictions that they face.

[DeckManDubs]

No more banning for me, I'm running out of ideas for new screen names

AWIC performance is awesome and even with my somewhat basic home made setup, I get results that would have never been possible with an air-to-air setup. With that said, I can't say for sure how suitable it is for daily driving; choice of components and how well the system was thought out, will play a big role on reliability (mainly pump life). I don't drive my car enough anymore to have a proper judgement on how well the pump I'm using will hold up at continuous duty on a daily basis.

Same thing goes for other pumps, they might do well for a couple hours of duties every now and then, but die in a few months if used on a daily basis. Another thing is where the pump is placed in relation to the rest of the components, and the overall system pressure. These pumps hate to suck and last a lot longer when they are pushing fluid. Pump head pressure also play a role in pump life, so if you're doing it, plan to not have any restricting lines and fittings (everything else should flow better than the inlet and outlet of the pump to avoid straining it). IMO, if everything is well put together with these few things in mind, I don't see why it can't be done reliably. If manufacturers can pull it off, so can we without the budget and packaging restrictions that they face.

Max,

You can try to get your hands on a Toyota Tundra TRD supercharger pump. I will try to grab some part #'s off it next time I have my old mans truck around for moving things. But that is for a large displacement SC with ~2.5 gal holding capacity. He has over 30k on the thing without an issue. So for track and street use it might be a good use. The other pump that you might try out would be from a Ford Lightning Supercharged, those are popular with the VRT and that is what Tony @ EPL used on his 1.8T European Challenge car.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Max,

You can try to get your hands on a Toyota Tundra TRD supercharger pump. I will try to grab some part #'s off it next time I have my old mans truck around for moving things. But that is for a large displacement SC with ~2.5 gal holding capacity. He has over 30k on the thing without an issue. So for track and street use it might be a good use. The other pump that you might try out would be from a Ford Lightning Supercharged, those are popular with the VRT and that is what Tony @ EPL used on his 1.8T European Challenge car.

Noted, thanks!!! I will definitely give the TRD Tundra a try when my pumps (I bought two of them) kick the bucket. The one I'm using now is also on the loud side as it totally covers my inline Bosh 044 whine. For the price with warranty, self priming, continuous duty capability, and flow rate, it was not a bad choice to get me started, but the noise is not for everyone (I wouldn't be able to take it on a daily basis), and I have no idea how long it'll last.

[steve-o 16v GLI]

Hey max I see you have spots reserved for more info. Id be interested to know what clutch/FW setup your running. I recently bought an 04 225 roadster that I have since been slowly upgrading and the clutch is the next big maintenance expense left. glad you finally have a thread to document the whole car!

[20v master]

dogbone delete

Do whatttttttt?

[DougLoBue]

I've got some photos to share. This is a fun car to drive

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Hey max I see you have spots reserved for more info. Id be interested to know what clutch/FW setup your running. I recently bought an 04 225 roadster that I have since been slowly upgrading and the clutch is the next big maintenance expense left. glad you finally have a thread to document the whole car!

Steve, the clutch setup will be documented in this thread very soon. It is not an off-the-shelf kit and everything was custom built to keep engagement and modulation user friendly while being able to grab gobs of TQ.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Do whatttttttt?

Yup, I don't have such a thing in my car anymore . What I'm running is a prototype from one of the respected companies in the 1.8t world. They have it designed for their 1000 HP shop car and only fitted on their car and mine. I don't know how much of it they want out in the public yet, so if you want I can give you info via PM or emails.

[steve-o 16v GLI]

Steve, the clutch setup will be documented in this thread very soon. It is not an off-the-shelf kit and everything was custom built to keep engagement and modulation user friendly while being able to grab gobs of TQ.

pretty much what Im looking for. Dont really wana dump a g+ into a clutch/fw setup thats gonna be finnicky for a dd. I thought I remembered you posting somewhere that it was custom made for you. Ill keep my eye out for the update.

[Kacz07]

How big is the S4 MAF? Link to purchase?

[l88m22vette]

225 maf = 3" od, 2.75" in, s4 maf = 3.25" od, 3" id

[20v master]

Yup, I don't have such a thing in my car anymore . What I'm running is a prototype from one of the respected companies in the 1.8t world. They have it designed for their 1000 HP shop car and only fitted on their car and mine. I don't know how much of it they want out in the public yet, so if you want I can give you info via PM or emails.

So you didn't delete it, you have another solid version. PM the details, good sir.

[jbrehm]

Copy me on that PM! Even with BFI mounts all around, my engine still moves more than I'd like...

[Marcus_Aurelius]

How big is the S4 MAF? Link to purchase?

It's the bigger S4 housing that I'm using, the sensor itself is still the OEM 225 sensor. The dimensions posted by Eric are correct (everything is from Audi's part bin).

[Marcus_Aurelius]

So you didn't delete it, you have another solid version. PM the details, good sir.

Oh yes, it's deleted! There is no actual pendulum mount to be found and you'll get it with the details/ pics as soon as I get to my laptop.

Copy me on that PM! Even with BFI mounts all around, my engine still moves more than I'd like...

With this, you'd have to twist the frame to get pendulum movement. Details coming your way as well!

[20v master]

It's the bigger S4 housing that I'm using, the sensor itself is still the OEM 225 sensor. The dimensions posted by Eric are correct (everything is from Audi's part bin).

Bigger would be the huge V8 one then, not the 2.7TT.

Oh yes, it's deleted! There is no actual pendulum mount to be found and you'll get it with the details/ pics as soon as I get to my laptop.

Well it may not be a "mount," but if there's something there I don't see how you deleted it. I guess I'll patiently await your info. My black TT is getting more attention these days and I'll be up and running hopefully this spring so looking into future plans.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Bigger would be the huge V8 one then, not the 2.7TT.

I mean bigger than stock... and yes, the 2.7 housing is used and not the V8 version.

Well it may not be a "mount," but if there's something there I don't see how you deleted it. I guess I'll patiently await your info. My black TT is getting more attention these days and I'll be up and running hopefully this spring so looking into future plans.

Technically, you're right since there is something in place to stop pendulum motion.

" dogbone mount delete with substitution" is a better description for you.

[Kacz07]

Nice. Thanks. I just picked up an R32 MAF, which seems bigger. Got it from a guy who said his friend uses one on his 225 and it's def bigger. Guessing it's the same as the S4.

[KN78]

Beautiful.

[deltaP]

[deltaP]

Can you share more about your awic? Do you have a front mounted aw rad?
or do youhave a chilled reservoir? Iamgoing to the build a system with a fmaw rad with enough volume to properly cool the air charge based on a 94front celica turbo intercooled system ST205.7

[DougLoBue]

Technically, you're right since there is something in place to stop pendulum motion.

" dogbone mount delete with substitution" is a better description for you.

best description: a man's dogbone mount

Second description: Take rubber and replace with metal.

[Marcus_Aurelius]

Can you share more about your awic? Do you have a front mounted aw rad?
or do youhave a chilled reservoir? Iamgoing to the build a system with a fmaw rad with enough volume to properly cool the air charge based on a 94front celica turbo intercooled system ST205.7

Clay, I'll be sending you a PM reply with more details about your questions on AWIC, but I run a front mounted heat exchanger. It's relatively small (12"x14") but I went all out to keep airflow consistently high over it. I have my OEM fans pulling air at high speed behind the heat exchanger at low speed. On long highways drives, the fans are not "on" because airflow is naturally high, so it's not needed.

I had plans to experiment with a second heat exchanger placed in one the SMIC locations and incorporate a trunk mounted beer keg into the loop to serve as heat sink, but seeing how efficient the system is, at low fluid volume but with high fluid/ air flow, I'm starting to reconsider. I have yet to see any heat soaking of the fluid because it is consistently being cooled with all the airflow I'm forcing through the heat exchanger.

A few pointers:

- keep fluid flow high and pressure low. Try not to downsize anywhere with fittings, bends etc. Whatever the OD on your pump inlet/outlet should remain constant throughout the system (also avoid unecessary bends).

- have the shortest line from heat exchanger outlet (cold side) to the pump then the core. This will ensure the most efficient use of the cooled fluid.

- have your pump lower than its feed source so it's gravity feed. These pumps in general hate to suck and do a better job a pushing fluid.

- make sure your heat exchanger inlet/outlet are horizontally place at the top. This will guarantee maximum efficiency and zero trapped air pockets.

- don't use more core than what you need. Most common mistake with AWIC is people choose oversize core that they don't have the capacity to keep up with in terms of fluid cooling.




Heat exchanger used