Alright so I was almost ready to do my swap broken triptronic for a 5 speed manual but then my driver’s side axle went (second time since Waterfest, almost a month ago) so I decided I had to get the hard shifting axle binding Japanese tranny out asap.
I thought I had everything figured out months ago, after fondling around the engine bay for the past couple days and finally dropping the 100kg tranny. I came on here to verify what else I need to do.
So far we have
-pulled the axles, Battery, airbox, starter, misc coolant lines (free up room on top of transmission)
-disconnected the ball joints
-removed all M12 and M14 bolts from transmission (there are also three 16mm nuts for the torq inverter that need to be removed from an access port above passenger side axle, you will need to rotate the crank to find these)
-removed everything off front of trans
-removed the PS line from passenger side and tuck safely away under car
-Dropped 09A transmission out the bottom (over 100kg so it’s very heavy)
-Removed lower dash panels and center console/arm wrest
-can I just cut out the automatics shift lock (line that goes from shift selector to ignition)?
-can I wire the clutch pedal switch to a push button?
-how does one get the reverse lights to work. (Splice it in off the tranny?)
-I just read something on a dated none vortex forum about a guy having to get the fly wheel machined because there’s a different crank in auto 1.8ts (this is the first I heard about this) can anyone confirm or deny this?
-I have read all I have to do is change the coding from a 2 to a 1, to change the ECU to manual (just want to confirm this because I also read that someone was having a problem with the revs being bumped up cause the ecu might try to smooth out shifts) can someone confirm or deny?
This is a 2002 AWP GTI – it will become a BT car but not on this motor- I will make a DIY once I have the swap finished and is also my Daily so I kinda need to get this back on the Road ASAP any advice is appreciated.
So the auto an manual have different cranks, so I will have to bore out the flywheel,
What about a pilot bearing though, dealer ship says its not a golf part but they have it for a jetta part, my mechanic says there isn't one for mk4s, iv read that the transverse 1.8ts don't but, passat longi do need one. Nappa also brings it up as a jetta part, and the turbo s beetle might have one......
Peter from ie said in a forum it wasn't needed, but if it wasn't why would it be for sale for a beetle or a jetta?
Alright well having the fly wheel turned and machined today, then it should fit better on the crank.
Still not sure what to do with the needle bearing (I belive its supose to be a bushing in autos and bearing in manuals, or maybe just no bearing... Either way I don't have a bearing or a bushing but I orderd one for a jetta and will be putting it in I guess....
we have pretty much everything set up and finished, but its not starting.
Why would it not be starting? all we have left to do is electrical but im kinda stuck on what needs to be done to make it run.
I still have the auto ECU, Cluster ad TCM in.
no matter what i do i cant get it to fire up, but its cranking with a problem.
This is my DD, I need it running asap.
The engine worked flawlessly before the auto was taken out, just to set the record straight
We have the clutch switches bypassed for now, so it cranks without having to depress the clutch. Transmission is in neutral and it cranking without a problem. No plugs or sensors on the engine were touched during the swap. We've also pulled out all the plugs to inspect, they were fine. The engine is grounded through one of the top bellhousing bolts directly to the ground under the batt tray right to the batt negative. We also checked for spark out of the coils (plug was grounded to valve cover) --- no spark at all..
We've since gotten our hands on some OBD readers, and may have some more issues.. We're working on getting a vag-com for tomorrow... But even with both code readers, we are seeing the same things from both..
With the TCM disconnected, neither code readers are able to connect at all.
With the TCM connected, we get a boatload of codes related to the auto trans (solenoid codes, etc - the TCU is plugged in but the trans is not).
Could this mean the ECU is dead? Or would that code just be there because the TCU was unplugged and the canbus was interrupted?
So what we have so far is either of the following:
-blown fuse(s) to ecu (already checked though..)
-ecu improperly coded (because it was coded for auto etc)
-ecu we are trying to use is from the auto setup (backwards compatible?) or is it totally impossible to recode? I'm thinking it might be close to impossible, the car is 2002.5 with immo 3
-OBD/diagnostics don't seem to work without TCM connected (waiting for VCDS to confirm though)
And one more thing that isin't ECU/TCU related. If we're getting no spark and no start, could it be a bad crank sensor? My friend's VR had the same issue and we replaced it with one from an old 2.0 and it started right up.. However for that issue the OBD worked and there was a code for the crapped out sensor.. With the 1.8t we're working with here, we can't even get it to connect without the TCM plugged in..