Chuckdee's Unique build thread

[Chuckdee]

Move along people, nothing to see here....

[It's Big Ty]

What's your current GTF? Good to know your keeping the car.

[Chuckdee]

What's your current GTF? Good to know your keeping the car.

Embarrassing to say but it's 23.5 ish in the front and around almost 23 in the back

When I get the skid plate on, which might be today since I got off early, then I'll be aimming for 22 1/2. Can you say..........sccccrrrrraaappe??? lol

[Lord-O]

Replace LCD screen for the cluster (100% of the pixels are gone, that should be a world record)

You're not the only one.

[AudibahnA4]

Looks good man

[Chuckdee]

You're not the only one.

Yeah I know right?? it sucks to not know what the car is trying to tell me :/

Looks good man

Thanks guy!

[Audiquattro337]

awesome thread, funny little comments too haha I too plan on woodgraining the piss out of my interior, i love it too much haha, what wood grain vinyl do you have in mind?

Check out module masters, they repair the center LCD screen for around $150 i think... + a little more if you want anything else broken to be fixed, i plan on sending mine in and adding s4 chrome cluster rings while they have it all tore apart. cant wait

[Chuckdee]

awesome thread, funny little comments too haha I too plan on woodgraining the piss out of my interior, i love it too much haha, what wood grain vinyl do you have in mind?

Check out module masters, they repair the center LCD screen for around $150 i think... + a little more if you want anything else broken to be fixed, i plan on sending mine in and adding s4 chrome cluster rings while they have it all tore apart. cant wait

Thanks I plan on just getting a roll I found off of ebay. $25 for a 10 foot roll, definitely legit. The screen is also $50 shipped on ebay but to save the money, I was gonna attempt to do it myself. I've seen how it's done so.....How hard can it be??

[Audiquattro337]

is it a Japanese company replacement or an OEM screen? i just heard the cheap replacement ones don't match the other lights in the car quite perfectly. (brightness wise)

[poopie]

i have the chinese replacement. its just brighter than OEM. i don't mind it at all.

[Audiquattro337]

oh i see, how hard is the diy? it looked semi challenging ><

[poopie]

idk, i'm an electrical engineer so i have access to the proper tools. haha. its gonna be tough for anyone who has never done any SMD rework.

[Audiquattro337]

hmmm, i might have someone who can do the job

[Chuckdee]

I've seen the diy and there's a video on how to remove the screen. I'll just give it a try and see how challenging it's gonna be. Also I've also seen people use like vinyl tint to lay on the screen, just to dim the light output.

[thepirate]

Hey welcome back.

I replaced my LCD screen with a screen Kompressed sells. Cost me $30 and about an hours worth of work removing, soldering, and reinstalling. My LCD is perfect now.

[PrimaVW]

Good luck re-aligning the front end... I attempted this and after a few hours, got the grille-area straight with the bumper lines and headlights, but the hood had about a 16th inch low gap on the hood on the PS and a 16th inch high gap on the DS

[Chuckdee]

Hey welcome back.

I replaced my LCD screen with a screen Kompressed sells. Cost me $30 and about an hours worth of work removing, soldering, and reinstalling. My LCD is perfect now.

Thank you sir, feels good to be back! And yeah I can't wait to replace mine also, wanna see what messages my car is trying to tell me -___-

Good luck re-aligning the front end... I attempted this and after a few hours, got the grille-area straight with the bumper lines and headlights, but the hood had about a 16th inch low gap on the hood on the PS and a 16th inch high gap on the DS

yeah I'd figure mine will be like a shifting puzzle piece, should be loads of fun

[poopie]

if you do the chipquik method, get the finest soldering tip you can and some copper braid. clean up the flux and low temp melt solder as good as possible after removing the old screen with flux cleaner or alcohol. Tin the pads on the board with as little solder as possible. use a magnifying glass while you line up the screen and tack down as many ribbons as possible before you let go of the screen or you risk ripping the ribbon. Then you can go back and do you final solder joint. Inspect the joints with a magnifying glass for any bridging.

[Chuckdee]

if you do the chipquik method, get the finest soldering tip you can and some copper braid. clean up the flux and low temp melt solder as good as possible after removing the old screen with flux cleaner or alcohol. Tin the pads on the board with as little solder as possible. use a magnifying glass while you line up the screen and tack down as many ribbons as possible before you let go of the screen or you risk ripping the ribbon. Then you can go back and do you final solder joint. Inspect the joints with a magnifying glass for any bridging.

Thanks for the pro tip, will definitely keep this in mind!

[Chuckdee]

Update: So I lowered it even more, my current GtF is 22.5 :alright






Also mounted my "skid plate" so I can sit at 22.5 with no worries




Next is to work on the wheels and then later, worry about fitting them on so I can still sit at that current height.

[MikkiJayne]

I did the LCD in my A6 myself. The first try was a chinese screen that didn't work at all, then I found a genuine one from a seller in Austria and that worked perfectly and obviously looks OEM. I used to work with surface mount electronics so it wasn't a big deal for me, but its not really a job for the faint hearted or inexperienced IMO.

Good advice from poopie though if you do have a go yourself Low temp solder is essential otherwise you'll lift the pads off the circuit board and then its new cluster time.

[Chuckdee]

Well I'll try to find the video that I've seen on how to remove the screen and put the new one on, it made it seem so simple. I'm up for the challenge.

[keeganhartman]

Those bolts wont last long on the sign

[Chuckdee]

Those bolts wont last long on the sign

yeah I'm about to drill in some holes so it can fit more flush, so it's actually temporary. The way bolts are in, is in an angle from a set of existing holes. One of the bolts actually had half of its head chopped off by the concrete lol.


Update: I've already took apart 2 out of 4 wheels, I'll do the rest when I get home. I have pics to prove it but I'm currently at work.

[Chuckdee]

Le update:

So i've been slacking on the updates because, well....there's not much to update on. But, I have :

Taken apart the wheels



*These spider webs indicate that these wheels were neglected for a while :/





I've taken apart all four since I took those pics


Took out the helper springs in the front to obtain moar low in the future with the wheels:





....for ****s and giggles, I decided to not spin up the coils just yet, I wanted to see how low I can get. Maximum amount I can get is 22" GTF. I could get lower if I cut a hole for the upper a-arms to go through.....Not looking to do all that just to get lower, i'm pretty content with where I'm at.





After that, I readjusted the fronts and I'm currently sitting at 22 1/4 in the front and 22 1/2 ish in the rear.







Sorry if those night pics look like crap.

Next update: Redoing wheels....stay tuned

[Chuckdee]

Hello internet! So i've been slacking behind on updating my thread with some epicness (mainly cause I've been lazy....no lie) but recently I've been back on the grind and have some worthy updates this time around. So stay tuned, I'll be back with more to share.

To be honest, I might just update my original thread....well detailed history from past to present.


yeah

....i'll just do that