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    Thread: X-Flow OBX ITB's. (problems...)

    1. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      08-14-2012 11:42 PM #1
      Okay so,

      I know that they are cheap ITB's, but they are not too far off from the real thing. They do need to be played with but the problem that Im having it that they idle at 2500rpm's. I have re-adjusted them to close evenly and open evenly. But they idle at 2500rpms.

      Has anyone gotten this far with them and had these particular problems? Any help would be appreciated.

      Thanks.






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      08-15-2012 01:38 AM #2
      Sounds like a vac leak. I've heard of this happening on the obx stuff

    3. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      08-15-2012 11:49 AM #3
      Make sure the base flange is flat.
      -Paul
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    4. Member frechem's Avatar
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      08-15-2012 11:55 AM #4
      That middle pic looks like to be at an early stage before you mounted the head and got it running but the idle set screw looks like it hasn't been moved.

      I just wanted to make sure that you did try to adjust it.

    5. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      08-16-2012 12:41 AM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by bonesaw View Post
      Sounds like a vac leak. I've heard of this happening on the obx stuff
      Really? I haven't see any other OBX set ups on here. But yes after all, it is OBX.

      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      Make sure the base flange is flat.
      checked it with a flat edge. Flat and flat.

      Quote Originally Posted by frechem View Post
      That middle pic looks like to be at an early stage before you mounted the head and got it running but the idle set screw looks like it hasn't been moved.

      I just wanted to make sure that you did try to adjust it.
      You are right. I did mount them on the head before going onto the engine. The two center bottom bolt holes were a MF to get to when its all together on the head. All of the yellow marks are from me to make sure that the settings stay.

      Thanks for all of the kind suggestions.
      Just so you all know. TWM Induction lowered the price on their set ups. My cost $1350.00 8V or 16V. instock!
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      08-16-2012 08:34 AM #6
      is that for the dcoe style or direct to head throttlebodies? also, i should be able to drop off that set of TWM long manifolds for you to check out sometime next week

    7. Member frechem's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 03:36 PM #7
      So with the idle set screw turned all the in and the stop not even touching it, the engine still idles at 2500?

      There aren't too many spots where it could be a vacuum leak. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the mounting flange or basically around the bodies while the engine is running to see if there is a leak?

    8. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 11:02 PM #8
      Okay so,

      I have done about 3hrs. of research and a friend has also helped out. And we came up with this.


      DOW CORNING MOLYKOTE 321.



      This is used by FORD and Mitsubishi on their throttle bodies. They say to never clean them! If you do clean them, then you need to reapply this stuff to the butterfly/bore. Let it dry and crack open the butterfly, adjust your idle stop screw. Enjoy your low idle setting.

      I will install the manifold in the morning along with the new phenolic spacer. (helps keep the fuel rail cool) I bet with the stop screw out all the way, it wont start. Screw in the stop screw until it idles.

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      08-21-2012 08:48 AM #9
      when you first posted this, i was thinking misadjusted or sticking linkage. even with an air leak, it would still idle lower than 2500

    10. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 11:25 PM #10
      After allowing the MOLYKOTE 321 to dry over night. I slowly cracked open the butterflies to break the now all closed position with the idle screw out. It started right up and is idling at around 850-1000 rpms. I didn't have much other time to play with the MS tuning today, but will in the morning. Made a dyno appointment and I will report back then.

      "candm" came by today with the TWM 16V mani's. And they look really nice and simple. Now I'm starting to mock up a set up in a rabbit.
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    11. Member canadian_rabbit_16v's Avatar
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      09-02-2012 09:08 PM #11
      man can u post a vid...im interested in getting these to!!! i wana hear it!! other than ur idle prob that u fixed was there anything else!

    12. Member canadian_rabbit_16v's Avatar
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      09-02-2012 09:11 PM #12
      i wonder what these would do on stock digi, poss just a chip!!

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      09-02-2012 09:49 PM #13
      would need to fab airbox for AFM on digi2. Does anyone even make chips for digi1 anymore?

    14. Member canadian_rabbit_16v's Avatar
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      09-02-2012 10:21 PM #14
      yes bbm, sns ..etc!!! on stock x-flow wold be digi 2

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      09-05-2012 10:46 AM #15
      I was, and kind of still, interested in these as well; good to see everything worked out.
      What cam are you running with these? I was leaning on the hydro TT 298 cam...

    16. Member canadian_rabbit_16v's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 11:33 AM #16
      VIDEO!!!!

    17. Member Prof315's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 12:21 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by canadian_rabbit_16v View Post
      i wonder what these would do on stock digi, poss just a chip!!
      You'd be better off with 4 zenith lawnmower carbs .
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    18. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 01:18 PM #18
      Digi2? You would be better off with four midgets with squirt bottles.
      -Paul
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    19. Member canadian_rabbit_16v's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 08:56 PM #19
      not a digi fan for n/a either!! but i would just wana try it to see..stock aba,install itb's..etc just see what would do!! my mk3 gti ran forever with no MAF pluged...maybe it wonldnt work but id try!!!

    20. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 11:30 PM #20
      It sounds like you want to learn a hard lesson. Enjoy.

      Ps: stock aba managment is not digi2 and if you run no afm it will be grumpy.
      -Paul
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    21. Member canadian_rabbit_16v's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 09:40 PM #21
      sorry forgot the OBD1 system is called Motronic M2.9 (M2.9.1 for engines with coil pack), and OBD2 is called Motronic M5.9.

    22. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      09-16-2012 03:25 PM #22
      UPDATE:

      The car has been finished. It made a trip to the dyno and made 153WHP/134WTRQ. The engine's throttle response is amazing. Very snappy, very cool sounding.
      I will try and post a video later in this thread.
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      09-16-2012 05:00 PM #23
      so how you fixed you idle problem ??

    24. Member doppelfaust's Avatar
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      09-17-2012 06:00 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by simon-says View Post
      Okay so,

      I have done about 3hrs. of research and a friend has also helped out. And we came up with this.


      DOW CORNING MOLYKOTE 321.



      This is used by FORD and Mitsubishi on their throttle bodies. They say to never clean them! If you do clean them, then you need to reapply this stuff to the butterfly/bore. Let it dry and crack open the butterfly, adjust your idle stop screw. Enjoy your low idle setting.

      I will install the manifold in the morning along with the new phenolic spacer. (helps keep the fuel rail cool) I bet with the stop screw out all the way, it wont start. Screw in the stop screw until it idles.

      Quote Originally Posted by simon-says View Post
      After allowing the MOLYKOTE 321 to dry over night. I slowly cracked open the butterflies to break the now all closed position with the idle screw out. It started right up and is idling at around 850-1000 rpms. I didn't have much other time to play with the MS tuning today, but will in the morning. Made a dyno appointment and I will report back then.

      "candm" came by today with the TWM 16V mani's. And they look really nice and simple. Now I'm starting to mock up a set up in a rabbit.
      Quote Originally Posted by hantonyc View Post
      so how you fixed you idle problem ??
      Did you read the previous replies? Sounds like he had air leaking past the butterflies and used the DOW CORNING MOLYKOTE to make the butterflies seal better.

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      09-17-2012 07:19 PM #25
      damn sorry ! dont know why ive missed the previous replys

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      01-08-2013 05:24 PM #26
      Video?
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    28. 02-13-2013 11:16 AM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by simon-says View Post
      Okay so,

      I have done about 3hrs. of research and a friend has also helped out. And we came up with this.


      DOW CORNING MOLYKOTE 321.



      This is used by FORD and Mitsubishi on their throttle bodies. They say to never clean them! If you do clean them, then you need to reapply this stuff to the butterfly/bore. Let it dry and crack open the butterfly, adjust your idle stop screw. Enjoy your low idle setting.

      I will install the manifold in the morning along with the new phenolic spacer. (helps keep the fuel rail cool) I bet with the stop screw out all the way, it wont start. Screw in the stop screw until it idles.


      Made this mistake on a 4G64 Evo VIII build. Chased my tail for 2 days on it. Dow 321 is good sh1t.

    29. Member eurotrashrabbit's Avatar
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      02-26-2013 03:07 PM #29
      Out of curiosity what are the specs on the motor? I have a similar setup and could never get it dialed in due to breaking stuff. Runnin 48mm throttle bodies and 298 cam and other stuff.

    30. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      02-27-2013 11:15 PM #30
      The engine is a hybrid.

      9A bottom with a Cross-flow head. 276 cam with springs. 11.5 comp. JE pistons. Port and polished head. 1mm over sized valves.(supertech)

      The car is coming back in to my shop for some suspension work. I'll take vids then. Stay tuned.
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    31. Member eurotrashrabbit's Avatar
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      02-28-2013 09:27 AM #31
      Um those are the specs of my motor? Except with 2mm oversize valves and scat rods. I also converted over to a 16v oil pump and ditched the dist

      [IMG][/IMG]
      Last edited by eurotrashrabbit; 02-28-2013 at 09:35 AM.

    32. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      03-01-2013 09:27 PM #32
      This engine doesn't need rods, just rod bolts. And I used the distributor to run the 4 window hall sensor for the sequential fuel injection.
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    33. Member simon-says's Avatar
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      03-10-2013 09:54 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by Jh0104 View Post
      Video?

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    34. Member the dubshow's Avatar
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      04-01-2013 06:07 PM #34
      no rev?!

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