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    Thread: 1.6 diesel rebuild

    1. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      08-15-2012 10:41 PM #1
      so im starting a 1.6na/td rebuild withen 3 weeks and i want to know where i can get every part and rebuild kits and any tips on this rebuild. does any one know the best place to get parts/ rebuild kits ?
      info on the timing , i know theres some thing special that needs to be done with the pump timing but dont remember all the steps . and where can i get the cam holder plates and other needed tools

      any info would help out . thanks

      http://www.partsplaceinc.com/

      this is one of the places i found . seems pricy thow

    2. Member Rockerchick's Avatar
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      08-16-2012 09:40 AM #2
      I think we got a lot of our parts through autohausaz.com. Plenty of good places though, just stay away from anywhere that is located in Matthews, NC.
      Quote Originally Posted by TM87 View Post
      VW-making mechanics out of owners since 1957.
      The project - '84 Jetta 1.6TD, 186k+, fully rebuilt, Giles IP and injectors, 2.5" custom exhaust, 51mpg
      Hers - '03 BMP 20thAE GTI, 130k, 3" 42DD turbo back, Unitronic Stage 2
      His - '01 Jetta TDI, 135k. Now has 3 pedals, as it should!

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      08-17-2012 12:05 PM #3
      rockauto has some parts for good prices
      Type I's
      the "little" D
      also 962 -0 to 60 in 4 years-
      why??more than 1 wire to shut her off?? a blasphemy!

    4. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 03:19 PM #4
      Those places sell internal parts as well like bearings. Pistons ext? After. I get a Bentley manual ill start searching for parts. And then order them when I get all the measurements and things. Probley type to post some pics of the build

    5. Member Rockerchick's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 03:59 PM #5
      Autohausaz does. We got some from there and some from partsplaceinc I believe.

      Bus Depot is another decent site. I wouldn't use them for everything, but they had some of the odd bits and pieces that we couldn't find anywhere else.
      Quote Originally Posted by TM87 View Post
      VW-making mechanics out of owners since 1957.
      The project - '84 Jetta 1.6TD, 186k+, fully rebuilt, Giles IP and injectors, 2.5" custom exhaust, 51mpg
      Hers - '03 BMP 20thAE GTI, 130k, 3" 42DD turbo back, Unitronic Stage 2
      His - '01 Jetta TDI, 135k. Now has 3 pedals, as it should!

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      08-17-2012 04:00 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by air-cooled or diesel View Post
      rockauto has some parts for good prices
      ZOMG!!!

      CONGRATS!!

      you posted a piece of REAL INFORMATION!!!

      keep up the good work!

    7. 08-18-2012 10:36 AM #7
      and the saga continues lol

    8. Member rallydiesel's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 12:12 AM #8
      bestpricecarparts has some good parts as well. It lists the manufacturer so you can choose the better ones although nowadays it's not an absolute guarantee on country of origin.
      Once you go "clack", you never go back.

    9. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 09:03 PM #9
      im liking autohouse az . i got manys parts from there before but not for motor . ill get most of my parts from there. but they want around 100$ per piston. so any one one of better places and better prices for pistons and springs a valves ? and i dont think there is a difference , but is there and bg difference with na and td 1.6 internal wise. all i could think of is hydro or mac. heads and pistons? it will be turbo'ed so i want to do it right

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      08-31-2012 01:57 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by Glegor View Post
      ZOMG!!!

      CONGRATS!!

      you posted a piece of REAL INFORMATION!!!

      keep up the good work!
      ive got alot of good info if only you could listen
      by the way still going real good @~-10kmi
      Type I's
      the "little" D
      also 962 -0 to 60 in 4 years-
      why??more than 1 wire to shut her off?? a blasphemy!

    11. Member meanvw's Avatar
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      08-31-2012 06:16 PM #11
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...Engine-Rebuild

      Hope this helps you some.
      Kind of lost track of that thread, and will throw some updates on it tonight. Gotta upload some more pics.

      I used autohausaz for almost all the parts.
      Partsplaceinc for tools

      I've got going on 50,000 miles since the rebuild.

    12. Member the_mad_rabbit's Avatar
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      08-31-2012 06:22 PM #12
      You're over in Rancho? Go to Bugformance- right around the corner from you. I work at the shop in San Jose- we can get all the parts. I know this for a fact because I am currently rebuilding my 1.6D motor, but I went all the way- honed, new guides, replaced I.M. bearings, just did a 2 angle valve job on the head, etc.

      Just because I'd like to voice my opinion... as great as autohausaz is, companies like that are the reason why small shops like us cannot survive. They buy everything by the pallet (straight from china), charge 10% above cost and sell in bulk making it impossible for small shops to stay in business. Frustrating as hell when people call the shop saying that they can get something for $20 online and it costs me $18 just to stock it.

      /vent

      Cheers

      -AJ
      All up in your harble, stealing your internets.
      "Life is like a bad margarita with good tequila, I thought as I poured whiskey onto my granola and faced a new day"
      Grow old or die trying.
      My rocket and My baby...

    13. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 02:09 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by the_mad_rabbit View Post
      You're over in Rancho? Go to Bugformance- right around the corner from you. I work at the shop in San Jose- we can get all the parts. I know this for a fact because I am currently rebuilding my 1.6D motor, but I went all the way- honed, new guides, replaced I.M. bearings, just did a 2 angle valve job on the head, etc.

      Just because I'd like to voice my opinion... as great as autohausaz is, companies like that are the reason why small shops like us cannot survive. They buy everything by the pallet (straight from china), charge 10% above cost and sell in bulk making it impossible for small shops to stay in business. Frustrating as hell when people call the shop saying that they can get something for $20 online and it costs me $18 just to stock it.

      /vent

      Cheers

      -AJ
      OK its werth cheecking out I rather Ger the parts in person then online. And I'm planing on a build like yours. Bore hone new every thing. Bears pistons guides. Ext. Plus blueprint the motor. Balance the crank and pistons rods 3angle valve and maybe a combustion chamber thermocoat.
      and all done at school. Ill look up the location and check it out after I do so measure ments
      thanks for the info

    14. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 02:21 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by the_mad_rabbit View Post
      You're over in Rancho? Go to Bugformance- right around the corner from you. I work at the shop in San Jose- we can get all the parts. I know this for a fact because I am currently rebuilding my 1.6D motor, but I went all the way- honed, new guides, replaced I.M. bearings, just did a 2 angle valve job on the head, etc.

      Just because I'd like to voice my opinion... as great as autohausaz is, companies like that are the reason why small shops like us cannot survive. They buy everything by the pallet (straight from china), charge 10% above cost and sell in bulk making it impossible for small shops to stay in business. Frustrating as hell when people call the shop saying that they can get something for $20 online and it costs me $18 just to stock it.

      /vent

      Cheers

      -AJ
      OK its werth cheecking out I rather Ger the parts in person then online. And I'm planing on a build like yours. Bore hone new every thing. Bears pistons guides. Ext. Plus blueprint the motor. Balance the crank and pistons rods 3angle valve and maybe a combustion chamber thermocoat.
      and all done at school. Ill look up the location and check it out after I do so measure ments
      thanks for the info

    15. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 02:50 PM #15
      And the build starts. Got the motor to school and drained out a lot of water and oil mix. This will ne fun

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      09-12-2012 06:53 PM #16
      the problem with honing; new pistons will be a bit loose (stock size) you cannt tell by eye ball.
      oil and water mix; bad head gasket or cracked head or block, head gasket is easily fixed, head more expensive.
      Type I's
      the "little" D
      also 962 -0 to 60 in 4 years-
      why??more than 1 wire to shut her off?? a blasphemy!

    17. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 08:41 PM #17
      yeah im reading up on a build some one else did ill copy the link . and when i picked it up i was told a possibly bad head gasket, and the motor has been siting out sid for a while. im doing the machining myself and with the help with my teacher . its gonna be dead on the money. and if the blocks bad i got another at home . got 2 motors for a deal. and theres is the one i have in the caddy witch is a real 1.6td . will post pics too

    18. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      09-13-2012 01:53 AM #18
      bad news . cylinder #3 has a crack in it pretty bad one to . looks like ill have to sleeve it . hard to find. or should i take apart my other block thats seized and see if its better ? any ones 2cents ?

    19. Member LO-vw's Avatar
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      09-15-2012 05:37 PM #19
      Anyone know where I Can find a crank pulley ? The pulley that the V belt goes on
      FS: Happich Replacement seals

      **WTB: G60 or lysholm chargers** **WTB:mk6 TDI Turbo upgrade** **WTB: mk6 power folding mirrors**

    20. Semi-n00b
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      09-17-2012 03:29 PM #20
      You can find a crank pulley at WWW.Car-parts.com. Lots of junkyards all over the place linked together. I had a condenser for the AC shipped from Texas to Michigan, USA. Anything and everything. Search locally, nationally, or worldwide.

      Check the block on your other one first. If it is ok, I would go with that. If not, you can buy a sleeve from Matthews, NC. I know a lot of people don't like that place, but a sleeve is about $20-30 dollars from them. How can you go wrong with a bad sleeve? It has to be a good part when you install it as you have to finish hone it after install. So he can't sell you a bad part!!!

    21. Member Rockerchick's Avatar
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      09-17-2012 05:03 PM #21
      Actually yes he can. he sells plenty of bad parts. Its all chinese garbage.

      Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
      Quote Originally Posted by TM87 View Post
      VW-making mechanics out of owners since 1957.
      The project - '84 Jetta 1.6TD, 186k+, fully rebuilt, Giles IP and injectors, 2.5" custom exhaust, 51mpg
      Hers - '03 BMP 20thAE GTI, 130k, 3" 42DD turbo back, Unitronic Stage 2
      His - '01 Jetta TDI, 135k. Now has 3 pedals, as it should!

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      09-17-2012 07:51 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by Rockerchick View Post
      Actually yes he can. he sells plenty of bad parts. Its all chinese garbage.

      Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
      i dunno how a prothe liner could be botched..

      ive always thought that i would take the chance on buying one of his liners if i ever needed to sleeve a block, or if i had an audi TD5, or volvo TD6, then finding a replacement block isnt usually a viable option..

      unless you can get a better liner.. i would atleast CONSIDER the prothe liner.

      but if your cylinder is cracked, the crack would need repaired, and THEN sleeve the block..

    23. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      09-17-2012 08:57 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by Glegor View Post
      i dunno how a prothe liner could be botched..

      ive always thought that i would take the chance on buying one of his liners if i ever needed to sleeve a block, or if i had an audi TD5, or volvo TD6, then finding a replacement block isnt usually a viable option..

      unless you can get a better liner.. i would atleast CONSIDER the prothe liner.

      but if your cylinder is cracked, the crack would need repaired, and THEN sleeve the block..
      well said . i may have to get parts from him . if i cant find a sleeve . and i may have a spair crank pulley . i have to start taking apart the second block

    24. Member rallydiesel's Avatar
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      09-17-2012 09:09 PM #24
      There's some stuff I would buy from him. However none of it would be key components that upon failure would cause extreme damage or injury/death .
      Once you go "clack", you never go back.

    25. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      09-18-2012 01:40 AM #25
      well theres some bad news now . head is ****ed . theres a crack between the valve for every cylinder in the head . and the major crack in cylinder number 3 . the motor was machined and rebuilt before the pistons are .50 over and rod and crank .010" undersized .so this motor may be scraped . but used for practice for boring and honing . it has not been fully desided yet but could part it out to . any one looking for parts? if i can find a good head some where the this could be saveable

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      09-18-2012 06:33 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by smallcombo View Post
      well theres some bad news now . head is ****ed . theres a crack between the valve for every cylinder in the head . and the major crack in cylinder number 3 . the motor was machined and rebuilt before the pistons are .50 over and rod and crank .010" undersized .so this motor may be scraped . but used for practice for boring and honing . it has not been fully desided yet but could part it out to . any one looking for parts? if i can find a good head some where the this could be saveable
      its very common for there to be cracks between the valves..

      as long as you can not fit the rip of a penny into them, then its FINE..

      i would still avoid using a broken block tho...

    27. Member the_mad_rabbit's Avatar
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      11-14-2012 08:07 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by air-cooled or diesel View Post
      the problem with honing; new pistons will be a bit loose (stock size) you cannt tell by eye ball.
      oil and water mix; bad head gasket or cracked head or block, head gasket is easily fixed, head more expensive.
      Woah there buddy. Got any facts to prove this bold and (very) incorrect statement? Love to hear what makes you think that honing results in too much play, and that you can't take a measuring device, swing open a BENTLY book to check for specs, and measure it out pre and post honing. Sounds like you've never rebuilt a motor before.

      Also, prothe is a scam artist. Take your money elsewhere.
      Resleeving is not worth it- find another block.

      -AJ
      All up in your harble, stealing your internets.
      "Life is like a bad margarita with good tequila, I thought as I poured whiskey onto my granola and faced a new day"
      Grow old or die trying.
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    28. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      11-14-2012 08:52 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by the_mad_rabbit View Post
      Woah there buddy. Got any facts to prove this bold and (very) incorrect statement? Love to hear what makes you think that honing results in too much play, and that you can't take a measuring device, swing open a BENTLY book to check for specs, and measure it out pre and post honing. Sounds like you've never rebuilt a motor before.

      Also, prothe is a scam artist. Take your money elsewhere.
      Resleeving is not worth it- find another block.

      -AJ
      thanks for the input , but the sleeve was gonna be free, all the machining i was gonna do my self at school, even installing the sleeve. but yeah the motor was machined before with .50 over pistons and .010"undersized journals on the crank. the head has cracks between every valve, so its junk. so the rebuild is on hold until i disassemble the seezed motor and hope it was good block head and rods.

      on the good note the pistons are reusable, and so is the crank, and other parts. the crank is balanced to under .25grams and im thinking about polishing the journals and chanfering the oil holes, maybe knife edge and re-balance.

      but willing to sell some of the parts if any one is interested

      pistons .50 over sized
      balanced crank
      1.6na pump
      gears
      pulleys
      oil pan
      valve cover
      brackets
      other parts just ask

    29. Member the_mad_rabbit's Avatar
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      11-14-2012 09:55 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by smallcombo View Post
      thanks for the input , but the sleeve was gonna be free, all the machining i was gonna do my self at school, even installing the sleeve. but yeah the motor was machined before with .50 over pistons and .010"undersized journals on the crank. the head has cracks between every valve, so its junk. so the rebuild is on hold until i disassemble the seezed motor and hope it was good block head and rods.
      Never owned a diesel that didn't have cracks between the valves. That is perfectly normal. Ancient Bently books actually have a spec for how big the crack is allowed to be before the head is junk. I may be able to dig up some pics from when I ground the valve seats on my diesel rebuild. My 1.9 also has cracks across all 4. Again, perfectly normal. Reason for the cracks is that by the time you have the head torqued down properly (12mm 1.6, NOT 11mm 1.5) you're around 93 ft/lbs per bolt which is a LOT of pressure. Enough to snap a 12mm headbolt tool, lol.

      -AJ
      All up in your harble, stealing your internets.
      "Life is like a bad margarita with good tequila, I thought as I poured whiskey onto my granola and faced a new day"
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      My rocket and My baby...

    30. Member Rockerchick's Avatar
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      11-14-2012 10:03 PM #30
      What he said ^

      We had a crack between one of the valves on our TD head when we did the rebuild. Got it, as well as the other areas in between the valves, welded over. Still running great. So long as you can't fit a penny in the cracks, you're fine.
      Quote Originally Posted by TM87 View Post
      VW-making mechanics out of owners since 1957.
      The project - '84 Jetta 1.6TD, 186k+, fully rebuilt, Giles IP and injectors, 2.5" custom exhaust, 51mpg
      Hers - '03 BMP 20thAE GTI, 130k, 3" 42DD turbo back, Unitronic Stage 2
      His - '01 Jetta TDI, 135k. Now has 3 pedals, as it should!

    31. Banned smallcombo's Avatar
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      11-14-2012 10:14 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by Rockerchick View Post
      What he said ^

      We had a crack between one of the valves on our TD head when we did the rebuild. Got it, as well as the other areas in between the valves, welded over. Still running great. So long as you can't fit a penny in the cracks, you're fine.
      thanks for the tip, ill try welding it, but its Christmas season now gotta spend the money on the family.. ohh tax return... hope it good

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      11-15-2012 01:09 AM #32
      ive only seen one VW diesel head (IN MY LIFE) that was not cracked between the valves to some degree...

      does a bear S*** in the woods?

      does the pope live in the Vatican?

      do VW diesel heads crack between the valves?

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      11-15-2012 04:08 PM #33
      i'd have to check on the used heads i have but i never remember coming across one of my heads that came out of a car that had a crack in it.
      Last edited by air-cooled or diesel; 11-15-2012 at 04:15 PM.
      Type I's
      the "little" D
      also 962 -0 to 60 in 4 years-
      why??more than 1 wire to shut her off?? a blasphemy!

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      11-15-2012 04:14 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by the_mad_rabbit View Post
      Woah there buddy. Got any facts to prove this bold and (very) incorrect statement? Love to hear what makes you think that honing results in too much play, and that you can't take a measuring device, swing open a BENTLY book to check for specs, and measure it out pre and post honing. Sounds like you've never rebuilt a motor before.

      Also, prothe is a scam artist. Take your money elsewhere.
      Resleeving is not worth it- find another block.

      -AJ
      i rebuild many motors, 2 recently
      think about it a stock cyl wall fits a piston that when hot expands and fits in the cyl wall perfectly, if you hone you obviously take some metal away, making the space between piston and cyl wall greater than at factory, you wont notice it(by eye), maybe by measuring cyl wall, the piston is just a little loose(hot) with 1 hone, and more with repeated honings. i prefer to sand wall so its not glazed but scored with a cross-hatch pattern. and a cross-hatch gives more angles for oil to reach top ring.
      Type I's
      the "little" D
      also 962 -0 to 60 in 4 years-
      why??more than 1 wire to shut her off?? a blasphemy!

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      2001 b5 passat/ 1981 vw caddy/ 2007cbr600rr sold
      11-17-2012 12:08 AM #35
      Was planing on the next size up on pistons. Was gonna make it perfect

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