1.6 diesel rebuild

[smallcombo]

so im starting a 1.6na/td rebuild withen 3 weeks and i want to know where i can get every part and rebuild kits and any tips on this rebuild. does any one know the best place to get parts/ rebuild kits ?
info on the timing , i know theres some thing special that needs to be done with the pump timing but dont remember all the steps . and where can i get the cam holder plates and other needed tools

any info would help out . thanks

http://www.partsplaceinc.com/

this is one of the places i found . seems pricy thow

[Rockerchick]

I think we got a lot of our parts through autohausaz.com. Plenty of good places though, just stay away from anywhere that is located in Matthews, NC.

[air-cooled or diesel]

rockauto has some parts for good prices

[smallcombo]

Those places sell internal parts as well like bearings. Pistons ext? After. I get a Bentley manual ill start searching for parts. And then order them when I get all the measurements and things. Probley type to post some pics of the build

[Rockerchick]

Autohausaz does. We got some from there and some from partsplaceinc I believe.

Bus Depot is another decent site. I wouldn't use them for everything, but they had some of the odd bits and pieces that we couldn't find anywhere else.

[Glegor]

rockauto has some parts for good prices

ZOMG!!!

CONGRATS!!

you posted a piece of REAL INFORMATION!!!

keep up the good work!

[srgtlord]

and the saga continues lol

[rallydiesel]

bestpricecarparts has some good parts as well. It lists the manufacturer so you can choose the better ones although nowadays it's not an absolute guarantee on country of origin.

[smallcombo]

im liking autohouse az . i got manys parts from there before but not for motor . ill get most of my parts from there. but they want around 100$ per piston. so any one one of better places and better prices for pistons and springs a valves ? and i dont think there is a difference , but is there and bg difference with na and td 1.6 internal wise. all i could think of is hydro or mac. heads and pistons? it will be turbo'ed so i want to do it right

[air-cooled or diesel]

ZOMG!!!

CONGRATS!!

you posted a piece of REAL INFORMATION!!!

keep up the good work!

ive got alot of good info if only you could listen
by the way still going real good @~-10kmi

[meanvw]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...Engine-Rebuild

Hope this helps you some.
Kind of lost track of that thread, and will throw some updates on it tonight. Gotta upload some more pics.

I used autohausaz for almost all the parts.
Partsplaceinc for tools

I've got going on 50,000 miles since the rebuild.

[the_mad_rabbit]

You're over in Rancho? Go to Bugformance- right around the corner from you. I work at the shop in San Jose- we can get all the parts. I know this for a fact because I am currently rebuilding my 1.6D motor, but I went all the way- honed, new guides, replaced I.M. bearings, just did a 2 angle valve job on the head, etc.

Just because I'd like to voice my opinion... as great as autohausaz is, companies like that are the reason why small shops like us cannot survive. They buy everything by the pallet (straight from china), charge 10% above cost and sell in bulk making it impossible for small shops to stay in business. Frustrating as hell when people call the shop saying that they can get something for $20 online and it costs me $18 just to stock it.

/vent

Cheers

-AJ

[smallcombo]

You're over in Rancho? Go to Bugformance- right around the corner from you. I work at the shop in San Jose- we can get all the parts. I know this for a fact because I am currently rebuilding my 1.6D motor, but I went all the way- honed, new guides, replaced I.M. bearings, just did a 2 angle valve job on the head, etc.

Just because I'd like to voice my opinion... as great as autohausaz is, companies like that are the reason why small shops like us cannot survive. They buy everything by the pallet (straight from china), charge 10% above cost and sell in bulk making it impossible for small shops to stay in business. Frustrating as hell when people call the shop saying that they can get something for $20 online and it costs me $18 just to stock it.

/vent

Cheers

-AJ

OK its werth cheecking out I rather Ger the parts in person then online. And I'm planing on a build like yours. Bore hone new every thing. Bears pistons guides. Ext. Plus blueprint the motor. Balance the crank and pistons rods 3angle valve and maybe a combustion chamber thermocoat.
and all done at school. Ill look up the location and check it out after I do so measure ments
thanks for the info

[smallcombo]

You're over in Rancho? Go to Bugformance- right around the corner from you. I work at the shop in San Jose- we can get all the parts. I know this for a fact because I am currently rebuilding my 1.6D motor, but I went all the way- honed, new guides, replaced I.M. bearings, just did a 2 angle valve job on the head, etc.

Just because I'd like to voice my opinion... as great as autohausaz is, companies like that are the reason why small shops like us cannot survive. They buy everything by the pallet (straight from china), charge 10% above cost and sell in bulk making it impossible for small shops to stay in business. Frustrating as hell when people call the shop saying that they can get something for $20 online and it costs me $18 just to stock it.

/vent

Cheers

-AJ

OK its werth cheecking out I rather Ger the parts in person then online. And I'm planing on a build like yours. Bore hone new every thing. Bears pistons guides. Ext. Plus blueprint the motor. Balance the crank and pistons rods 3angle valve and maybe a combustion chamber thermocoat.
and all done at school. Ill look up the location and check it out after I do so measure ments
thanks for the info

[smallcombo]

And the build starts. Got the motor to school and drained out a lot of water and oil mix. This will ne fun

[air-cooled or diesel]

the problem with honing; new pistons will be a bit loose (stock size) you cannt tell by eye ball.
oil and water mix; bad head gasket or cracked head or block, head gasket is easily fixed, head more expensive.

[smallcombo]

yeah im reading up on a build some one else did ill copy the link . and when i picked it up i was told a possibly bad head gasket, and the motor has been siting out sid for a while. im doing the machining myself and with the help with my teacher . its gonna be dead on the money. and if the blocks bad i got another at home . got 2 motors for a deal. and theres is the one i have in the caddy witch is a real 1.6td . will post pics too

[smallcombo]

bad news . cylinder #3 has a crack in it pretty bad one to . looks like ill have to sleeve it . hard to find. or should i take apart my other block thats seized and see if its better ? any ones 2cents ?

[LO-vw]

Anyone know where I Can find a crank pulley ? The pulley that the V belt goes on

[Den052]

You can find a crank pulley at WWW.Car-parts.com. Lots of junkyards all over the place linked together. I had a condenser for the AC shipped from Texas to Michigan, USA. Anything and everything. Search locally, nationally, or worldwide.

Check the block on your other one first. If it is ok, I would go with that. If not, you can buy a sleeve from Matthews, NC. I know a lot of people don't like that place, but a sleeve is about $20-30 dollars from them. How can you go wrong with a bad sleeve? It has to be a good part when you install it as you have to finish hone it after install. So he can't sell you a bad part!!!

[Rockerchick]

Actually yes he can. he sells plenty of bad parts. Its all chinese garbage.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

[Glegor]

Actually yes he can. he sells plenty of bad parts. Its all chinese garbage.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

i dunno how a prothe liner could be botched..

ive always thought that i would take the chance on buying one of his liners if i ever needed to sleeve a block, or if i had an audi TD5, or volvo TD6, then finding a replacement block isnt usually a viable option..

unless you can get a better liner.. i would atleast CONSIDER the prothe liner.

but if your cylinder is cracked, the crack would need repaired, and THEN sleeve the block..

[smallcombo]

i dunno how a prothe liner could be botched..

ive always thought that i would take the chance on buying one of his liners if i ever needed to sleeve a block, or if i had an audi TD5, or volvo TD6, then finding a replacement block isnt usually a viable option..

unless you can get a better liner.. i would atleast CONSIDER the prothe liner.

but if your cylinder is cracked, the crack would need repaired, and THEN sleeve the block..

well said . i may have to get parts from him . if i cant find a sleeve . and i may have a spair crank pulley . i have to start taking apart the second block

[rallydiesel]

There's some stuff I would buy from him. However none of it would be key components that upon failure would cause extreme damage or injury/death .

[smallcombo]

well theres some bad news now . head is ****ed . theres a crack between the valve for every cylinder in the head . and the major crack in cylinder number 3 . the motor was machined and rebuilt before the pistons are .50 over and rod and crank .010" undersized .so this motor may be scraped . but used for practice for boring and honing . it has not been fully desided yet but could part it out to . any one looking for parts? if i can find a good head some where the this could be saveable

[Glegor]

well theres some bad news now . head is ****ed . theres a crack between the valve for every cylinder in the head . and the major crack in cylinder number 3 . the motor was machined and rebuilt before the pistons are .50 over and rod and crank .010" undersized .so this motor may be scraped . but used for practice for boring and honing . it has not been fully desided yet but could part it out to . any one looking for parts? if i can find a good head some where the this could be saveable

its very common for there to be cracks between the valves..

as long as you can not fit the rip of a penny into them, then its FINE..

i would still avoid using a broken block tho...

[the_mad_rabbit]

the problem with honing; new pistons will be a bit loose (stock size) you cannt tell by eye ball.
oil and water mix; bad head gasket or cracked head or block, head gasket is easily fixed, head more expensive.

Woah there buddy. Got any facts to prove this bold and (very) incorrect statement? Love to hear what makes you think that honing results in too much play, and that you can't take a measuring device, swing open a BENTLY book to check for specs, and measure it out pre and post honing. Sounds like you've never rebuilt a motor before.

Also, prothe is a scam artist. Take your money elsewhere.
Resleeving is not worth it- find another block.

-AJ

[smallcombo]

Woah there buddy. Got any facts to prove this bold and (very) incorrect statement? Love to hear what makes you think that honing results in too much play, and that you can't take a measuring device, swing open a BENTLY book to check for specs, and measure it out pre and post honing. Sounds like you've never rebuilt a motor before.

Also, prothe is a scam artist. Take your money elsewhere.
Resleeving is not worth it- find another block.

-AJ

thanks for the input , but the sleeve was gonna be free, all the machining i was gonna do my self at school, even installing the sleeve. but yeah the motor was machined before with .50 over pistons and .010"undersized journals on the crank. the head has cracks between every valve, so its junk. so the rebuild is on hold until i disassemble the seezed motor and hope it was good block head and rods.

on the good note the pistons are reusable, and so is the crank, and other parts. the crank is balanced to under .25grams and im thinking about polishing the journals and chanfering the oil holes, maybe knife edge and re-balance.

but willing to sell some of the parts if any one is interested

pistons .50 over sized
balanced crank
1.6na pump
gears
pulleys
oil pan
valve cover
brackets
other parts just ask

[the_mad_rabbit]

thanks for the input , but the sleeve was gonna be free, all the machining i was gonna do my self at school, even installing the sleeve. but yeah the motor was machined before with .50 over pistons and .010"undersized journals on the crank. the head has cracks between every valve, so its junk. so the rebuild is on hold until i disassemble the seezed motor and hope it was good block head and rods.

Never owned a diesel that didn't have cracks between the valves. That is perfectly normal. Ancient Bently books actually have a spec for how big the crack is allowed to be before the head is junk. I may be able to dig up some pics from when I ground the valve seats on my diesel rebuild. My 1.9 also has cracks across all 4. Again, perfectly normal. Reason for the cracks is that by the time you have the head torqued down properly (12mm 1.6, NOT 11mm 1.5) you're around 93 ft/lbs per bolt which is a LOT of pressure. Enough to snap a 12mm headbolt tool, lol.

-AJ

[Rockerchick]

What he said ^

We had a crack between one of the valves on our TD head when we did the rebuild. Got it, as well as the other areas in between the valves, welded over. Still running great. So long as you can't fit a penny in the cracks, you're fine.

[smallcombo]

What he said ^

We had a crack between one of the valves on our TD head when we did the rebuild. Got it, as well as the other areas in between the valves, welded over. Still running great. So long as you can't fit a penny in the cracks, you're fine.

thanks for the tip, ill try welding it, but its Christmas season now gotta spend the money on the family.. ohh tax return... hope it good

[Glegor]

ive only seen one VW diesel head (IN MY LIFE) that was not cracked between the valves to some degree...

does a bear S*** in the woods?

does the pope live in the Vatican?

do VW diesel heads crack between the valves?

[air-cooled or diesel]

i'd have to check on the used heads i have but i never remember coming across one of my heads that came out of a car that had a crack in it.

[air-cooled or diesel]

Woah there buddy. Got any facts to prove this bold and (very) incorrect statement? Love to hear what makes you think that honing results in too much play, and that you can't take a measuring device, swing open a BENTLY book to check for specs, and measure it out pre and post honing. Sounds like you've never rebuilt a motor before.

Also, prothe is a scam artist. Take your money elsewhere.
Resleeving is not worth it- find another block.

-AJ

i rebuild many motors, 2 recently
think about it a stock cyl wall fits a piston that when hot expands and fits in the cyl wall perfectly, if you hone you obviously take some metal away, making the space between piston and cyl wall greater than at factory, you wont notice it(by eye), maybe by measuring cyl wall, the piston is just a little loose(hot) with 1 hone, and more with repeated honings. i prefer to sand wall so its not glazed but scored with a cross-hatch pattern. and a cross-hatch gives more angles for oil to reach top ring.

[smallcombo]

Was planing on the next size up on pistons. Was gonna make it perfect