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    Thread: White Gunk in engine oil. help?!

    1. 08-16-2012 06:56 PM #1
      I have a 1971 beetle that i just bought and im working slowly on fixing it up for showing. theres much to be done. and ive been kind of overwhelmed with the electronics and wiring for now, but i just decided to open the oil filler cap on the engine (1600) and i saw that theres white gunk collecting near the cap. what could i possibly be? theres no coolant or water in the engine for it to seep through one of the gaskets. please help?

    2. 08-16-2012 06:58 PM #2
      Condensation from cool dense outside air will cause this sometimes. If the oil is clean id say itll be ok.

    3. 08-16-2012 07:02 PM #3
      yes from the dipstick its crystal clear. but from the oil filler cap its very gunky and white. i know on current cars this is caused by either a warped head or gasket got burnt up and coolant starts leaking into the oil supply, but since this is an air cooled engine it completely makes sense that it could be condensation. especially because it just rained 2 days ago and i couldnt get the car in the garage because i was out with it.

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      08-17-2012 02:30 AM #4

      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      yes from the dipstick its crystal clear. but from the oil filler cap its very gunky and white. i know on current cars this is caused by either a warped head or gasket got burnt up and coolant starts leaking into the oil supply, but since this is an air cooled engine it completely makes sense that it could be condensation. especially because it just rained 2 days ago and i couldnt get the car in the garage because i was out with it.
      Dayo 71 ,
      Yup! condensation http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...p?topic=3022.0 .
      What you want to do now is look @ your crankcase ventilation ,while the case has to be ventilated that has to be done in such a way so as not to pull moisture in during cooldown http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...p?topic=3511.0 & if you have the droptube type of oil filler(#7)

      then you need to make sure you run the road draft tube(#23) & make sure you have a good tight fit on the filler cap gasket(#20).
      http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...ri3fa9fcbor6l5
      http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...oducts_id=3206
      or just the gasket if the cap is otherwise OK
      http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...roducts_id=701 .


    5. Member LooseNuts's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 10:50 AM #5
      a lot of the time the condensation (water) gets in the motor from people washing the motor area or rain
      J
      Quote Originally Posted by WideFive
      If you have to ask if it's a good trade... then it isn't a good trade.
      Quote Originally Posted by Schell R32
      ACW's aren't a watercooled APPLIANCE,it's a classic air cooled pile that takes money,patience and attitude to own it.
      http://www.facebook.com/VWLoosenuts?sk=wall www.cultwagen.com.

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      08-18-2012 12:54 AM #6

      Quote Originally Posted by LooseNuts View Post
      a lot of the time the condensation (water) gets in the motor from people washing the motor area or rain
      Absolutely true Loose ,so if you live in a rain-prone area please take it from a loooongtime offroader who didn't have any degree of engine compartment protection(me ),there's a few other little details that you can do to protect both the engine & electrics from water intrusion http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...p?topic=4336.0 .


    7. 08-18-2012 02:41 AM #7
      I actually have a baja bug. so i too dont have an engine compartment. i intend to keep it like that because it looks bad ass. im using it as a cruise vehicle to the beach and what not. and also shows. do you have any advice for none compartment engines and tail light wiring? i have tail lights on the rear fenders and also a cage around the engine with tail lights attached. although some of the tail lights and what not dont work. and neither of blinkers work. im going to re wire the entire car myself fairly soon. ive already stripped the car, now waiting for looms to arrive.

    8. 08-18-2012 02:55 AM #8
      also, on the oil filler, theres no pipe (#7 from diagram) should i/ will it accept/ can i buy an oil filler with the pipe? and then do all the things you recommended? i want to get this engine running top notch and as cool as i can get it with whatever technology this engine will allow me to install on it. i think its a super beetle. i have a 1600cc engine. When i bought it, the guy told me that the engine might be modified with something to give it more horsepower.. but he wasnt sure if that was true. what should i be looking for?

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      08-19-2012 05:05 AM #9

      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      I actually have a baja bug. so i too dont have an engine compartment. i intend to keep it like that because it looks bad ass. im using it as a cruise vehicle to the beach and what not. and also shows. do you have any advice for none compartment engines and tail light wiring? i have tail lights on the rear fenders and also a cage around the engine with tail lights attached. although some of the tail lights and what not dont work. and neither of blinkers work. im going to re wire the entire car myself fairly soon. ive already stripped the car, now waiting for looms to arrive.
      Dayo 71 ,
      Is it the lights on the fenders or the lights on the cage that don't work?,or parts of both?,that's a matter of just creating reliable power feeds to them & ground paths to the body/frame from them .
      Pics of your setup would help immensly .

      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      also, (A)on the oil filler, theres no pipe (#7 from diagram) should i/ will it accept/ can i buy an oil filler with the pipe? and then do all the things you recommended? i want to get this engine running top notch and as cool as i can get it with whatever technology this engine will allow me to install on it. (B)i think its a super beetle. i have a 1600cc engine. When i bought it, the guy told me that the engine (C)might be modified with something to give it more horsepower.. but he wasnt sure if that was true. What should i be looking for?
      (A)If it is a #6 with no hole broken out @ the bottom you're good to go as is as long as it's tight & gasketed(#17) to the generator/alternator stand & the cap seals well .
      (B)What's your VIN#? & do you have a relatively flat(standard) or curved(super) windshield from side to side & what type of front suspension do you have?
      (C)Without more accurate info(like pics ) there's pretty much no way anyone can tell you what you have,we need to see what you have in order to tell you what it is & whether or not it will work for or against you:
      " dont know why the pictures arent showing.. but if you right click open image in new tab.. all the pictures are there."
      from
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...9#post78490729
      Got it






      ,you need to figure this out,fix it at your end,in that thread .
      What I did was follow your instructions which opened up http://s1249.photobucket.com/albums/...HoboExplosion/ ,from there you need to copy & plant the "Direct link" address into the pic popup after eliminating/deleting the "http://" which autoloads .
      Gonna get to werk on the pics after I get some sleep ,I'm pretty sure some other people will chime in by the I get back.(Clue ,it's an ex-A/C modified fan shroud ).


    10. 08-19-2012 11:01 PM #10
      hey thanks, my vin number is 1112228070 it has front macpherson struts, and the spare lies down in the front. so im pretty sure its a super.

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      08-20-2012 03:10 AM #11

      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      hey thanks, my vin number is 1112228070 it has front macpherson struts, and the spare lies down in the front. so im pretty sure its a super.
      Thaaaat's a super ,not da best for serious offroading ,but from you description of how you plan to use it you'll be OK .

      Here's the souce of your white gunk

      Crankcase vent tube is open & pointed @ the RR tire = drive the car in the rain = water sprayed up from the tire gets into the tube = white gunk in your oil filler ,what you need is a little larger airfilter


      like

      http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...3rcqqkbu5utkp7
      which has the bung hangin' down there on the lower plate to accept the other end of your breather tube,which brings us back to http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...p?topic=3511.0 .

      This silver box

      is a badly bypassed voltage regulator,when you get your new harness you'll find that there's no accomodation for that if you ordered the correct harness for an internally regulated elternator,which is what you have
      http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...roducts_id=926


      Bosch ,let's just hope the alternator isn't as fried as the wires to it due to the wiring job you inherited .
      This

      http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...articles_id=10
      is as easy as your setup should be when done .
      There's more little details I can call out "i want to get this engine running top notch and as cool as i can get it with whatever technology this engine will allow me to install on it." once you get the wiring dialed in .


    12. 08-21-2012 03:26 AM #12
      Excellent information. Thank you very much. I've already stripped the car down and prepped it to start the wiring immediately upon receiving the wire looms. As is obvious, I will be taking my time with this job. Wiring and brakes I feel are most important at this stage of the repairs. Im hoping the wires behind the engine are fine because I don't want to pull the engine yet. I will be getting a new fuse box and fuses, so if the brakes lights still don't work, then I might have to pull it to change the wires in the firewall. Either way, I will take pictures of what I'm doing and will post them in the near future. And I can assure you the my wiring job will be much cleaner and more safe than what I have now.

    13. 08-21-2012 03:35 AM #13
      Also, should I order that main wiring loom that you posted? I ordered this one. http://www.jbugs.com/product/WK-133-...ng-kit-1971-74

      I am willing to order the other one that you posted in addition to the complete wiring looms if I need it. I don't mind having a few extra wires.

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      08-22-2012 12:44 AM #14

      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      Excellent information. Thank you very much. I've already stripped the car down and prepped it to start the wiring immediately upon receiving the wire looms. As is obvious, I will be taking my time with this job. Wiring and brakes I feel are most important at this stage of the repairs. Im hoping the wires behind the engine are fine because I don't want to pull the engine yet. I will be getting a new fuse box and fuses, so if the brakes lights still don't work, then I might have to pull it to change the wires in the firewall. Either way, I will take pictures of what I'm doing and will post them in the near future. And I can assure you the my wiring job will be much cleaner and more safe than what I have now.
      Dayo 71 ,
      The loom you ordered includes the taillight wires(they all do ),while it'd be easier to run those wires with the engine out it's doable with the engine in,just a little tight across the firewall to get to the holddowns,but if the back of the car is up on jackstands you'll find that it'll just be a combination of from above & from below approaches to button everything up.

      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      Also, should I order that main wiring loom that you posted? I ordered this one. http://www.jbugs.com/product/WK-133-...ng-kit-1971-74
      I am willing to order the other one that you posted in addition to the complete wiring looms if I need it. I don't mind having a few extra wires.
      After looking at both for a little while I'd return the one you ordered in favor of the alternator specific one I suggested,reason being that both the 71 & 72 Standard & Super dashes are the same part# = both are wired the same http://www.jbugs.com/category/vw-bug...1971-1977.html up under the front hood ,that = you won't have to make any changes to bypass the voltage regulator under the back seat .


    15. 08-22-2012 01:34 AM #15
      the wiring loom you suggested is for a 73 - 74, so im assuming there will be some unused wires that ill have to cover and since its just the main harness, will i have to order a different loom for the wires i will be missing (i.e tail light wires, etc.) from the AL82N loom?

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      08-22-2012 03:39 AM #16

      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      the wiring loom you suggested is for a 73 - 74, so im assuming there will be some unused wires that ill have to cover and since its just the main harness, will i have to order a different loom for the wires i will be missing (i.e tail light wires, etc.) from the AL82N loom?
      Shouldn't have to 71 ,yes,the 73-74 harness will have more capability to eventually expand on what you have because of the more complex lighting system mostly,so any leftovers can just be bent back & ziptied off openly because they wouldn't be charged @ their other end .
      Where I'm goin' with this is that you have a 71 with an AL82N internally regulated alternator which only originally came on a 74 non-externally regulated car,what I'm trying to show you is that you'd be simplifying your wiring installation by cutting out the external voltage regulator modification under the back seat which would have to be done with a true 71 harness .
      By description "STD (Main Harness) W/AL82N Alternator" means a Standard with an AL82N Alternator & "(Main Harness)" means including the tail light wires:

      "(they all do )",if in doubt please call Joe Chirco directly toll free at 1-800-955-9795 to verify this .


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      08-22-2012 10:51 AM #17
      Doesn't sound good, which you already know, but i'm pretty sure your VW has a busted seal somewhere.

    18. 08-23-2012 03:11 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by buggyman View Post


      Shouldn't have to 71 ,yes,the 73-74 harness will have more capability to eventually expand on what you have because of the more complex lighting system mostly,so any leftovers can just be bent back & ziptied off openly because they wouldn't be charged @ their other end .
      Where I'm goin' with this is that you have a 71 with an AL82N internally regulated alternator which only originally came on a 74 non-externally regulated car,what I'm trying to show you is that you'd be simplifying your wiring installation by cutting out the external voltage regulator modification under the back seat which would have to be done with a true 71 harness .
      By description "STD (Main Harness) W/AL82N Alternator" means a Standard with an AL82N Alternator & "(Main Harness)" means including the tail light wires:

      "(they all do )",if in doubt please call Joe Chirco directly toll free at 1-800-955-9795 to verify this .

      Ok, just ordered the AL82N harness. Can't wait to get started on this little project.

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      08-31-2012 03:47 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by 71baja View Post
      I have a 1971 beetle that i just bought and im working slowly on fixing it up for showing. theres much to be done. and ive been kind of overwhelmed with the electronics and wiring for now, but i just decided to open the oil filler cap on the engine (1600) and i saw that theres white gunk collecting near the cap. what could i possibly be? theres no coolant or water in the engine for it to seep through one of the gaskets. please help?
      Quote Originally Posted by calituner View Post
      Condensation from cool dense outside air will cause this sometimes. If the oil is clean id say itll be ok.
      clean cap often
      if i recall my breather box had water mixing with the oil in it(oil fumes accumulating to a liquid (oil))
      Type I's
      the "little" D
      also 962 -0 to 60 in 4 years-
      why??more than 1 wire to shut her off?? a blasphemy!

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