25mm sway bar install Corrado content.

[2OVT]

Not really sure what the issue here is, didn't have this with the stock sway bar. but here we go, i'll try and explain it. Brand new bar, brand new end links, brand new poly bushings. Pushed stock bushings out of new end links to put in the 25mm ones then slapped it to the subframe and...

Passenger side end link:


Sway bar vs Subframe (pass. side).

The space between both seems legit.

Driver side end link:

what teh fack

Sway bar vs Subframe (driver side):

seems...not so legit.

when I try to center the bar by pushing it towards the passenger side to make it pop out of the passenger end link a tad bit more, the sway bar hits the control arm on the driver side... did I do something wrong here? Been monkeying with this for little over an hour and can't get it. I have loosend the control arms thinking maybe one would go in a little bit more and give me that extra bit of space between the driver side control arm and the bar but no luck. Any suggestions?

And the h&r kit did not come with new clips to hold the bar down to the subframe and with the stock clips this happens-
http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/...B4EC56B22A.jpg

I tried using a C-clamp but the clip started to bend

[meboice]

I cannot decipher the photos well, but are you sure this is something to worry about jut yet? I don't think you can make the call that you are making until you reinstall these components...attach only one endlink and reinstall everything then run the control arm as far up and down as possible - without springs and shocks. Only then can you really be sure that there either is or is not a clearance/binding problem...are the endlinks stock?

If there is slight contact you might have to grind a little of the control arm flange. There is a lot that you can learn/discover by moving control arms sans springs, shocks and one endlink...

[2OVT]

I cannot decipher the photos well, but are you sure this is something to worry about jut yet? I don't think you can make the call that you are making until you reinstall these components...attach only one endlink and reinstall everything then run the control arm as far up and down as possible - without springs and shocks. Only then can you really be sure that there either is or is not a clearance/binding problem...are the endlinks stock?

If there is slight contact you might have to grind a little of the control arm flange. There is a lot that you can learn/discover by moving control arms sans springs, shocks and one endlink...

I did not want to put the subframe in, have clearance issues, then have to remove it to fix it. I was always told the subframe bolts are a one time use
and I believe they are stock end links-I just bought new replacements from ECS-
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...y_Bar/ES11881/

just simply popped out the oe size bushing and put the 25mm ones in.

[meboice]

I understand the one time bolt thingy...I still urge you to prepare the car in this manner. buy some extra bolts...make sure that the subframe is supported by a lift of sort before using any of the one time bolts; if you use those to pull the subframe up into place they may very well strip the threads in the boring - the unibody.

Try this...I know this is a pain and that you want to drive the car...but it may very well turn out to be a good step to add to your process of rebuilding. I know better, but every time I rush and skip steps I regret it.

[2OVT]

I understand the one time bolt thingy...I still urge you to prepare the car in this manner. buy some extra bolts...make sure that the subframe is supported by a lift of sort before using any of the one time bolts; if you use those to pull the subframe up into place they may very well strip the threads in the boring - the unibody.

Try this...I know this is a pain and that you want to drive the car...but it may very well turn out to be a good step to add to your process of rebuilding. I know better, but every time I rush and skip steps I regret it.

I was planning on using the floor jack to hold it again the frame rails, then square it up, and alternate sides with bolts.

[2OVT]

so after spending some time with H&R on the phone, I have lost faith in this company. The technician(after I sent him a link to the thread) assured me I had the bar in upside down and that the numbers on the bar should be facing towards the bottom. Gathering viewable information, this didn't seem right but I gave it a shot anyways...


So here is the bar the way the tech wanted me to install it. seems kinda funky.



mhm


surely doesn't seem right. some help he was.

so I flipped the bar back around to the way I had it-

seems much better, but still the clearance issues on the driver side portion.


Again- seems like it should go this way.


compared it with the way my stock bar came out- vahla I had it right.

so again...I am stumped. Not sure what to do here
the tech also said that this bar doesn't require the ''inner clips" and assured me again that his bar will not 'walk' side to side. ha.


after sitting on the phone for 30 minutes and still no solution to my problem, I'm not sure I would trust that man any farther than I could throw him.

[driftin4]

Stock brackets are what is used, worked fine on several I have done.

I have seen the part number both directions, up and down, think its an inconsistency on the stamping.

I have used these bars in several MK2 and MK3's without any issue what so ever.

[2OVT]

Stock brackets are what is used, worked fine on several I have done.

I have seen the part number both directions, up and down, think its an inconsistency on the stamping.

I have used these bars in several MK2 and MK3's without any issue what so ever.

I finally got it in, but here is how it IS sitting. Have you run into this before?

-pass. side




-driver side




[IMG][/IMG]

pulling up on both LCA's now as if the suspension was in use and it doesn't hit but sure looks close. Think i'll be ok?

[meboice]

...did you check articulation with one endlink removed? This makes moving the control arm through its entire arc or stroke very easy. Also, remember that in a typical orientation, the swaybar will twist equally up on one side as it twists down on the other...so the exaggerated movement of the control arm I suggest isn't really reality...informative for sure. Your ride height will also affect the angle of the control arms and therefore the position of the swaybar ends. In most applications they should be positioned horizontally so that the bar does twist equally left to right...bushing location can have you alter this and track venue can as well.

I always wanted a Corrado but was never in the market...young kids with a wife who could care less about cars.

[driftin4]

Don't recall ever having concerns about it hitting. I have seen a little more sticking out of one end over the other, but given it doesn't have anything at all to do with function, I didn't worry about it.

Did you have everything powdercoated/painted or are these a-arms reproductions?

[meboice]

Technically if the torque tube portion of the bar is not centered we can get an asymmetric twist in the bar...the handles different left to right...and if heim joint type endlinks are used and they are closer to their articulation limits, an asymmetric layout might allow one endlink to bind...this will show up as skipping through a corner.

Personly, the few products that I purchased from H&R were poorly designed for the application...I sent them all back.

[2OVT]

Don't recall ever having concerns about it hitting. I have seen a little more sticking out of one end over the other, but given it doesn't have anything at all to do with function, I didn't worry about it.

Did you have everything powdercoated/painted or are these a-arms reproductions?

yup, all the stuff was blasted and coated.

Technically if the torque tube portion of the bar is not centered we can get an asymmetric twist in the bar...the handles different left to right...and if heim joint type endlinks are used and they are closer to their articulation limits, an asymmetric layout might allow one endlink to bind...this will show up as skipping through a corner.

Personly, the few products that I purchased from H&R were poorly designed for the application...I sent them all back.

the torque tube is the middle portion, yes? how does this look?

[driftin4]

Technically if the torque tube portion of the bar is not centered we can get an asymmetric twist in the bar...the handles different left to right...and if heim joint type endlinks are used and they are closer to their articulation limits, an asymmetric layout might allow one endlink to bind...this will show up as skipping through a corner.

Based on what? There are loads of sway bars that have the sides designed significantly different for clearance purposes. A torque tube relies on two things to give it rate, the attachment point at each end. You change the attachment point and the only thing you change is the overall rate, not individual side specific rate. Binding endlinks is a completely different subject.

[2OVT]

so does my bar look fine on the subframe?

[meboice]

driftin4...move the swaybar's torque one foot to left of center and go for a drive...lets leave clearance problems out for now. I don't think the car will feel the same left to right. What about endlink angles in this scenario? In front view in this case.

I've seen many oddly shaped swaybars and I've used a bunch but I've never seen a torque tube off - center for normal driving purposes on basically street designed cars...this is a street driven car...not on a circle track, yes?

The length shape of the bar ends and torque tube rate and location of attachment points, length of endlinks (if these are assumed to be adjustable )define total bar rate if I remember...EDIT - endlinks don't establish rate but do affect how the bar's effectiveness.

If my memory serves me correctly, and I'm old, we get some sort of asymmetric motion ratio if the torque tube is not centered...we can also get asymmetric motion ratio by adjusting endlinks to different lengths left to right.

driftin4, email is typically a horrible place to descern tone...to avoid confusion my tone is one of my experience but one that is also inquisitive about yours.