NEED TO SELL Windsor GLX

[Mr.Broke]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...0#post78875900

[Mr.Broke]

Bump

[Mr.Broke]

[Mr.Broke]

Bump

[VwGolfNewbi]

Trade?!

[Mr.Broke]

Trade?!

If it's another Mk3 with a Vr6 in it,sure.

[VwGolfNewbi]

mk4 2.0?

[Mr.Broke]

Bump

[Mr.Broke]

[Mr.Broke]

B

[snapondubber]

Hey im not interested in buying but thought i might have some helpful advice, you should try replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I see you replaced the cam sensor but not the crank, and they are only about 60 bucks and easy to change. Even if you arent interested in keeping the car, im sure you could get more for a running car than 1 that doesnt. Good luck

[blampl]

I had a similar problem, found mine to have a corroded negative battery cable. Good luck with your sale.

[Mr.Broke]

Hey im not interested in buying but thought i might have some helpful advice, you should try replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I see you replaced the cam sensor but not the crank, and they are only about 60 bucks and easy to change. Even if you arent interested in keeping the car, im sure you could get more for a running car than 1 that doesnt. Good luck

I had a similar problem, found mine to have a corroded negative battery cable. Good luck with your sale.

Thanks for the advice.
I know the crank sensors wouldn't cause it to die wile driving.
I'm 99% sure it is not getting fuel.
Here is a thread about the problems I'm having
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-then-no-start
But I will check the battery cables,hopefully it's something simple like that.

[Mr.Broke]

Bump for new pics.

[snapondubber]

UNTRUE, as a matter of fact it will do exactly that, my car left me stranded in a fridays parking lot one night and on the side of the freeway the next when mine went. The first time my car was idling and just shut off and the next time i was doing about 65 and it was just like someone flicked the key off. Towed it to work put a labscope on the crank sensor leads and sure enough, no waveform. The crank sensor is generally a magnet the senses the position of the crankshaft telling the pcm which cylinder to send spark and fuel to, these sensors can develop weak magnets or can become oil saturated. Oftentimes when a pcm has no crank signal it will cut power to the fuel pump after a few seconds. There are a few things you could test just to be sure first, easiest of which is just spraying carb cleaner, stating fluid, gasoline or even hairspray into the throttle body and see if it fires. This doesnt 100percent solidify the cause but gives you a starting point. After that, test for power and ground at the fuel pump, get a buddy and use a multimeter and test for power and ground harness side at the pump while someone is cranking. If you have power or ground for a couple seconds and it goes away, the pcm is pulling its signal to it and most likely you need a crank sensor or a pcm, if you have no power or ground at all while cranking go to the fuel pump relay and test for power there. If you have power coming out of the relay test for continuity between the relay and the pump harness, you may have a broken wire. Now if you tested at the pump while cranking and got any less than 11 volts or so and have a charged battery than you have a voltage drop issue in a wire and have too much resistance. Im pretty sure this should cover most of your bases and i know its alot but im just trying to help out. Good luck

[Mr.Broke]

UNTRUE, as a matter of fact it will do exactly that, my car left me stranded in a fridays parking lot one night and on the side of the freeway the next when mine went. The first time my car was idling and just shut off and the next time i was doing about 65 and it was just like someone flicked the key off. Towed it to work put a labscope on the crank sensor leads and sure enough, no waveform. The crank sensor is generally a magnet the senses the position of the crankshaft telling the pcm which cylinder to send spark and fuel to, these sensors can develop weak magnets or can become oil saturated. Oftentimes when a pcm has no crank signal it will cut power to the fuel pump after a few seconds. There are a few things you could test just to be sure first, easiest of which is just spraying carb cleaner, stating fluid, gasoline or even hairspray into the throttle body and see if it fires. This doesnt 100percent solidify the cause but gives you a starting point. After that, test for power and ground at the fuel pump, get a buddy and use a multimeter and test for power and ground harness side at the pump while someone is cranking. If you have power or ground for a couple seconds and it goes away, the pcm is pulling its signal to it and most likely you need a crank sensor or a pcm, if you have no power or ground at all while cranking go to the fuel pump relay and test for power there. If you have power coming out of the relay test for continuity between the relay and the pump harness, you may have a broken wire. Now if you tested at the pump while cranking and got any less than 11 volts or so and have a charged battery than you have a voltage drop issue in a wire and have too much resistance. Im pretty sure this should cover most of your bases and i know its alot but im just trying to help out. Good luck

Thank you for the advice

[Mr.Broke]

Bump

[Mr.Broke]

[Mr.Broke]

PMUB

[Mr.Broke]

[Mr.Broke]

Bump for new pic

[Mr.Broke]

[Mr.Broke]

TTT