Power Steering - Safe to say it's my rack?

[Pompeod]

Guys,

Attached is a picture of the driver's side bellows on the rack. It's pissing out a good amount of fluid, so I'm assuming the inner tie rod socket or some other seal is shot. My question is - is this completely indicative of needing to replace the rack? I know the price of the part is substantial, so where would you recommend to get a replacement?

Also, I'm decently mechanically inclined and for what I don't know off hand, I can read the Bentley and find out (along with the DYI for replacing the rack, that I found on here), but is there anything you can recommend to make sure not to f*ck up?

Thanks for the help guys (and girls, if applicable).

Also, it's a '00 VR6 12v Jetta.

[Cornstalker]

I just had the same thing happen to my kids 02. Weirdest thing, I had never seen fluid come out of the dust boots before. I bought a used one from vwparts4sale and installed new inners, outers and boots. Was about a 4 hour job start to finish. Which included about a half hour of head scratching comparing the 2 side by side to find a discernable difference. Bentley says nothing about service procedures and they dont appear to be serviceable.

[radlynx]

you might want to buy and rack and pinion seal kit. it's cheaper this way if you want to rebuild it.

Guys,

Attached is a picture of the driver's side bellows on the rack. It's pissing out a good amount of fluid, so I'm assuming the inner tie rod socket or some other seal is shot. My question is - is this completely indicative of needing to replace the rack? I know the price of the part is substantial, so where would you recommend to get a replacement?

Also, I'm decently mechanically inclined and for what I don't know off hand, I can read the Bentley and find out (along with the DYI for replacing the rack, that I found on here), but is there anything you can recommend to make sure not to f*ck up?

Thanks for the help guys (and girls, if applicable).

Also, it's a '00 VR6 12v Jetta.

[meboice]

You should first - even with a leak - run new fluid through the system with the return line detached...you will need someone in the car as well.

Fill the reservoir up with clean PS fluid, have some one turn the car on with the return line pointed into a bucket. When the car turns on, the fluid will literally shoot out of the return line so be prepared. You do not want to run the car for more than a few seconds or the pump will run dry. Repeat this step until all clean fluid has been removed from the system. Only then are you ready to replace the rack.

You will have to remove outer tie rods...perhaps a portion of the exhaust system...or lower the entire sub-frame to remove the rack. If you want a really good re-manufactured rack call Jorgen - JAC - Jorgen Automotive corp. They make the best re-manufactured racks I've seen and used...very thorough work. You can buy a short rack and install your new inner tie rods - highly recommended. most re-man racks come with used inner tie rods. Buy new ones as they are very hard to get at after installation.

This is a pain in the A>> job but very expensive if you send it out...and there are no short cuts to following the procedure above...you MUST pre-flush the system to ensure only clean fluid runs through the new rack.

Be careful removing fittings from the rack and cover them with appropriate caps after letting them drain completely. If you are re-installing right after removal don't bother covering the ends of the lines. you may want to mark the lines to make sure they are re-installed correctly - DO NOT INSTALL THE BACKWARD!

Once the system is filled, have someone start the car while you watch the fluid reservoir empty as it fills the lines and rack...keep filling it until it stabilizes. While your helper is in the car they should begin to turn the steering wheel carefully left and right to full lock - do not slam it to full lock - after you think the reservoir level is stable.

All of these procedures are easy but necessary. Drive the car at slow speeds for 5 minutes or so then recheck the fluid level.

Above all else, be very, very clean while working on the rack...do not let anything into the lines or any dirt to get caught on them while they are hanging under the car...you may want to tie them off somewhere so that you don't inadvertently scrape them along some muddy/oily dirty portion of the under carriage.

[radlynx]

or you can buy a remanufactured one at around $350 something with core return. You get some money back when you return your old one. another cheaper fix if you don't want to rebuild your existing one. it's still your call.

[germancarnut51]

A used rack or a seal kit (MKIII price is $50, not sure about a MKIV seal kit) is $50.

If you're in a hurry, go to a self-service yard, and get a used rack (check for leaks before buying) for about $50.

If you have the time, you can order a seal kit, and reseal your rack.

You could also buy a used rack to drive on for now, and buy a seal kit to reseal your rack when you have the time.

[Enter the chicken]

Sorry to hear this as I went through the same thingAs your car is an early one I would suggest putting in an R32 rack. With all new stretch bolts for subframe and rack to subframe. Flip the tie rods from left to right. Also a good time to think about your front sway bar or bushings. Hope that helps

[meboice]

Just buy a re-built rack from Jorgen...their re-built steering racks are the best I've seen.