Having some issues with this build.
Engine is in and she turns over. I can get the rig to start on its own. I have to shoot a little bit of starter fluid to get it going once its running it stays running. When I press the gas I get no response or it takes for ever for the engine to rev up???
How off can the injector pump be off before a TDI will not run or start. Also how much clearance do the valves have if you were off a couple teeth on the lower end?
Also I have a cluster issues I have been searching about this. Seeing maybe a low voltage problem. I have double checked all grounds and they are good.
My cluster has no tach, time or odomiter, also I hear a fain clicking in the cluster when the key is turned off....
Take in mind this could be wired wrong and I do see a couple single pron connectors under the dash connected to nothing.
Any suggestions would be a great help
STOP using starter fluid! If it needs it, then figure out whats up. Don't try to start it that way. You can cause damage with that.
Have you checked your IP timing? You can check it with a gauge or VAG-COM I believe. If its too off, then yes, it will have a hard time starting/stay running. Off a couple of teeth on a diesel...not good.
Make sure your timing is spot on, both with the belt and the IP. Then give it a go.
Did the engine run in the Passat you pulled it out of? If so, what did you change since you pulled it?
Did you remove the pump and belt? Why did you not align it perfectly? Being that you had the engine out of the car there is no excuse lol. If you are a tooth or two off in the bottom end, you have probably bent some valves already. Did you turn it over by hand prior to trying to start it?
The cluster and electro-pedal issue are a simple fix. On the backside of the fuse box, there needs to be a jumper wire between E2 and D8.
If you've got the main harness hooked up on the engine and all the big plugs are on the fuse box. It should fire and run no problem.
I only went Mechanical because at the time, it was easier and cheaper for me to do so. Plus selling all my electronics from the donor made me a profit on my mk1-tdi swap
Thanks guys... I'm thinking maybe I have bent valves now......
Bit of a noob with this diesel.... I guess I wait till my diesel tools come in the mail, re-time and compression test?
I did pull the timming belt to cut metal shield for the side motor mount not locking anything down. I thought I was being super careful. I knew the injection pump moved, and thought everything elts was still lined up.
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Pump was not removed, just the belt. I dint align it due to huge noob mistake. I know the bottom end moved when i tightened up the tensioner.
Thanks for the info, Ill look into the wire for the cluster. I guess Ill wait till my TDI tools come in.
I will re-time it then and then I guess do a compression test???
Hope she's not blown....
I once had to remove and replace a timing belt on the side of the road in the dark with my cell phone as a flashlight.. I didn't have my locks or dial indicator with me.. it can be done, but its tricky as all hell.
Well, if it still runs half decent, you probably lucked out. I wouldn't run it anymore until you fully under stand what you are doing however. A few simple and overlooked mistakes could cost you this entire swap in a heart beat.
I'd do a leak down test over a compression, as it will tell you (if there is any) where it is leaking whether it be the top or bottom end.
- The first problem is that the thread pitch for the adapter is 10x1.00mm instead of 8x1.00mm.
- The second issue is that every pump will be different with regards to spec because the computer adjusts timing internally. You can get it within a certain range, but isn't that the point of the locking pin?
I never said it was the best way, but you can most certainly do it. I know someone who has.
I have access to VAG-COM so I'd always go that route when I could. But we have a dial gauge for our TD as well.
Last edited by Rockerchick; 08-21-2012 at 03:02 PM.
I'm merely pointing out the fact that there are hoops to jump through to make it happen. You would either need to build an adapter for the dial indicator or swap out the 'plug' to the 8x1mm plug.
The only time I have ever had a TDI not start after a timing belt change was due to the pump timing being off. It should fire right up if everything is locked down and indexed correctly after a timing belt change. Fine tune accordingly afterwards. This goes for both IDI and TDI.
IDI: use a dial indicator
eTDI: use VCDS
As others have mentioned, time properly and see what happens. The fact that it'll start and continue running is good.
The B4 clusters have an issue with capacitors and an Elmos chip. Was the issue there prior to the swap? If you've cleaned all the grounds and checked fuse #21, the issue is likely the cluster.
Usually the issue starts when the temperature starts dropping into the 40°s. The odometer and clock reset, and you start hearing the stepper motors as you are. When it gets worse is when you lose the clock, altogether.
There's a member at TDI Club that can repair these; the low voltage issue will be a thing of the past. I sent mine to him last winter and all has been good since. His shop had a fire a few months ago, so hopefully he's up and running again.
The cluster did work prior to the swap but I did notice the tach doing some random things like sticking and stuff... I got a test cluster from a non diesel to test with sometime today....
My timing tools come in today as well... I'm crossing my fingers...
I just recently signed up with TDI club and have read up a little on these clusters, Pretty sure I came across the TDI club member that works on them. Shame he had a fire!
Last edited by jpskate8; 08-22-2012 at 12:09 PM.
now I hooked up my test cluster and Im getting the same results... Hummm I guess i dont have it wired correctly.
I have the two big blue plugs in the fuse box, plus there are one double pron and i think three single pron connectors. I dont think they were all hooked up in the original passat....
I think I found homes for each wire by plug connector color and wire color. I have one scragaler a single prong blue plug with single red and white stripped wire?
Anyone know if this is an important wire for the cluster?
Sorry wish i had a Bentley....
Update on the build....
So I did end up bending a couple valves. Head was pulled and everything is fixed and she is all timed to the T...
Just need to Finnish up wiring, and a ton of ods and end in the engine bay.
I got this tranny mount kit from the Caddy shop over in the UK, having a bit of an issue with the rear not reaching the motor mount? very strange, and annoying.....
I also got my H20 pump pulley and I think the correct size belt. I will get that all on tomorrow AM!
Last edited by jpskate8; 09-01-2012 at 09:12 PM.
Oh well, live and learn.
I just noticed that you have the better GQ ECU. Seeing that tells me that your 5th injector has likely been disabled, which is good. You'll also want to either delete the EGR (it'll thow the CEL) or alter the MAF reading with VCDS, so the intake won't get clogged.
I'm surprised you bought that mount, especially from the UK.
The mounts, I wasn't going to do, but made some cash off some parts so I splurged a bit on those. Would have been more worth it if I wasn't having an issue with the rear....
That's not your intake piced, is it? Your EGR shoud be integral to your intake.
All I meant about the mounts was there are plenty of places in the US that sell those mounts. The shipping must have been pretty expensive. I recently bought a m-tdi pump from the UK and the shipping was about $125 US.
I am not having any luck getting this swap to start again. Seems to act the same as before I replaced the head, but at least now I get a good throttle response once the rig is running.
I know its not good but the only way the rig will kick over and continue to run is with a little shot of starter fluid....
Any suggestions would be great help